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View Full Version : 305 Cam Change Top End Rebuild and General Tidy Up



cptpugwash
22-12-13, 09:35 PM
Made a proper start and could go one of 3 ways, realy well and the car will run again, will run again but drive like a load of old pants or end up a total disaster and end up on e-bay for parts :)


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b759f8137e4.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b759f931364.jpg

pics didnt seem to come out to well :beuj:

never tryed one of these threads before but thought it might be handy for lots of dumb questions :)

bigjob
23-12-13, 08:12 AM
Go for it Kevin, whats it in??

Plumpcars
23-12-13, 08:45 AM
Good to see a thread which encourages others to have a go. Hope all goes well.

Roadrunna
23-12-13, 09:42 AM
I always figured it can't hurt to try and by the fourth or fifth go it'll end up going back together better than it was when it came apart :D

Speaking of which, should have a how to on a TH400 when Bry pulls it out of BigJob :incheek:

cptpugwash
23-12-13, 05:33 PM
Go for it Kevin, whats it in??

an old rover Bry, not a hotrod im affraid used to be a 2lt when a mate had it and he had an old 70s buick that was going to be scrapped,so he put the engine and box in, but left it to sit in hes yard for about 5 years untouched
was chatting over a beer one night about 10 years ago and asked if he fancyed a swap with a pretty rusty old 78 firebird that i had in a lockup, and been fixing broken bits on it ever since

engine does go in a treat, with no bulkhead mods mate did have to alter the front of the sump to clear the crossmember,and the hei dizzy is super tight, have to take the inlet off and pull the dizzy out in one go, and the th350 fits in the tunnel without any cutting too
a td rad keeps it cool as a cucumber only have to use the fans once in a while
being all cast iron does make it a little front heavy though

airfilter used to just rub the top of the bonnet, but had a capri bonnet bulge fitted ....figured it was the right age part to do the job
might even have room now to fit an airgap manifold

cptpugwash
23-12-13, 07:41 PM
used to be like this..

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b88b4bf366f.jpg

but rad hoses started going, so thought it was time for a clean up and after reading russes thread with hand painting...went out and brought a can white hammerite :)

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b7594304a47.jpg

had an oil leak at the front of the inlet for quite a while so thought that needed sorting, turning the engine over to get tdc before pulling the dizzy noticed the timing chain just didnt feel as it used to....new chain needed ....so thought sod it might as well have a go at fitting new cam

plugs have been like this for a while and noticed the inlet valves have loads of carbon on them, so going to go for some new valve guides too
the man in reel steels said they dont replace guides now he showed us a sleeve they fit inside the old guides

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b88f75dadf4.jpg



been to wet n windy outside today so been having a go at cleaning some bits up

grubby

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b890ca7ded7.jpg

all shinny

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b890e240805.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b890e335590.jpg

not looking forward to doing the water pump much cant get the front pully off at the min either

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b891831554f.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b89184a3f01.jpg

cptpugwash
24-12-13, 06:19 PM
little bit more cleaning
been trying some 400 then some 1200 and a rub over with a scotch bright, seems to come out ok

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b9cdbb6a77b.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b9cdbb3f087.jpg

gave the nuts a coat of 3.1 it kinnda leaves a dry film on them figuring it might keep the damp of for awhile

and given the pulleys a coat of this, just to keep the damp off,not sure if itll work or not


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52b9cf3d90533.jpg


realy not looking forward to tackling that water pump

cptpugwash
27-12-13, 10:00 AM
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52bd4e3f7ed6d.jpg

had a go but not very happy with it, not sure what to try on it next, might just leave it

seems its going to be dry tomorrow, should be able to get the heads off, rad out and splash some more hammerite around
and have a propper measure to see if the bonnets got to come off, fingers crosssed it wont

cptpugwash
28-12-13, 08:00 PM
heads off, had a moment of panic, feeling a bit outta depth but arfter a coffee and thoughts of stop being a prat was back on track
was surprised how much water was still in the heads, got drowned taking the first one off
got a syringe and a lengh of pipe to get the water out of the other one, did take a while though

rad,fans and some painting tomorrow and got to figure out how to stop the motor from turning to get the balancer off,if anyone has any tips would be appreciated :)

fad15
28-12-13, 08:12 PM
Your doing fine. Just keep going and ask if you need help. Oh and BREATH, BREATH, BREATH....

SG57
28-12-13, 08:45 PM
heads off, had a moment of panic, feeling a bit outta depth but arfter a coffee and thoughts of stop being a prat was back on track
was surprised how much water was still in the heads, got drowned taking the first one off
got a syringe and a lengh of pipe to get the water out of the other one, did take a while though

rad,fans and some painting tomorrow and got to figure out how to stop the motor from turning to get the balancer off,if anyone has any tips would be appreciated :)

Put a bar through the puller or if you can't do that get your wife to crawl underneath and put a pry bar on the flywheel teeth.

Rog,

Plumpcars
28-12-13, 09:10 PM
You are using a proper balancer puller aren't you not a hook type?

cptpugwash
28-12-13, 10:19 PM
Your doing fine. Just keep going and ask if you need help. Oh and BREATH, BREATH, BREATH....

thanks fad15


Put a bar through the puller or if you can't do that get your wife to crawl underneath and put a pry bar on the flywheel teeth.

Rog,

thanks for the idea rog,sorry kinnda worded it wrong though ment the bottom pulley :) will have a go at trying to get on the flex plate teeth


You are using a proper balancer puller aren't you not a hook type?

its a star shape puller that by the looks of it bolts to the front of the balancer and another bolt that goes through the center hopefully its the right one

thanks for looking

Plumpcars
28-12-13, 10:48 PM
Yeah that's the one. The pulley bolts could be loosened with an impact rather than just hanging on them.

SG57
29-12-13, 12:44 AM
If that is the puller type try a length of flat bar from the chassis catching on the bolts or anything else that will stop it from turning. We've all been there, we've all had a first time but you have got the right idea, keep asking. I wish I was nearer to you.

Rog.

cptpugwash
29-12-13, 05:29 PM
rad out but think the cam is going to hit the top of the valance dont know for sure till it comes out
figuring on either cutting a chunk of it out or might have to drop the box down and that might tilt the front of the engine up


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c0598506b8a.jpg

been cleaning up the piston tops, but found some marks in the bores :confused:
imagine they have had some water sitting in them at some time and they must have been like it for a long time
did do a comp test in the summer and each pot was 120 - 130 pound so hopefully they will be ok


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c05b2bb7813.jpg

oily


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c05b7551f3e.jpg

fad15
29-12-13, 05:55 PM
rad out but think the cam is going to hit the top of the valance dont know for sure till it comes out
figuring on either cutting a chunk of it out

Better to bend it out of the way, then you can bend it back, straighten it with a few bashes and you dont loose any metalwork.

If you need to make more room, that is
G

stretch
29-12-13, 06:52 PM
youve undone just about everything, undo the bell housing bolts n the engine mounts, now the turkey has gone get the engine indoors on the kitchen table,there you will have light warmth coffee, and a constant whine:incheek:

Chucks41
29-12-13, 06:54 PM
Good to see you having a go Cappy, everyone has to start somewhere, the missus showed me how to do my first head gasket on my OHC Cortina in the early 80's & it's amazing the buzz you get when you drive something you've built, something you'll never know if you never try.

They say you learn from your mistakes so I must be a friggin genius.

Good luck with the rest of the build, once the bugs bit it won't be long before you're planning your next mod:D

:tup:Ian

cptpugwash
29-12-13, 09:14 PM
Better to bend it out of the way, then you can bend it back, straighten it with a few bashes and you dont loose any metalwork.

If you need to make more room, that is
G

thanks for the idea, hopeing its going to clear


youve undone just about everything, undo the bell housing bolts n the engine mounts, now the turkey has gone get the engine indoors on the kitchen table,there you will have light warmth coffee, and a constant whine:incheek:

was thing about that this arfternoon, and getting a +30 done and a set of forged flat tops :)
its your fault anyways stretch, your thread gave us the idea to sort that leaky gasket out :)



Good to see you having a go Cappy, everyone has to start somewhere, the missus showed me how to do my first head gasket on my OHC Cortina in the early 80's & it's amazing the buzz you get when you drive something you've built, something you'll never know if you never try.

They say you learn from your mistakes so I must be a friggin genius.

Good luck with the rest of the build, once the bugs bit it won't be long before you're planning your next mod:D

:tup:Ian

thanks Ian
been thinking about a proper garage next, so dont have to be so reliant on the weather
and another car :)

stretch
30-12-13, 11:33 AM
good thread enjoying this,heres some insperation for you. go on you no you will feel better afterwards
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/3/7/237_526bd19bd0d50.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/3/7/237_527e88c5742a1.jpg
i know which one i like now

fad15
30-12-13, 11:43 AM
we LIKE shinny:drool:

stretch
30-12-13, 11:45 AM
he gotta pull it out now! 15 mins he have it on the kitchen table

cptpugwash
30-12-13, 08:19 PM
lol
engine looks good there stretch, is that an old blackbushe picture on the wall


weathers been a bit grim so thought, have a look at the heads,


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1cec0d3a78.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1cf2d524c1.jpg


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1d01bbaed9.jpg

old spring next to new spring

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1d1662b274.jpg

the old springs have these cups that go over the top, not sure if these have to be used with the new springs or not :beuj:


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1d2328a8e3.jpg

and the old ones have 2 different spring retainers a thick one that swivels in the middle and a thin one :beuj:
the new set are all the same as the thin one


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1d35258dfe.jpg

had a measure of the spring seat heights to the top of the guides
not sure if this makes any difference or not :beuj:


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1d41677ffc.jpg


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c1d48e6a290.jpg


thanks for looking :)

stretch
30-12-13, 09:41 PM
yes thats a blackbushe poster,see your making good progress there

Plumpcars
30-12-13, 10:27 PM
I would use the new springs/retainers as a matched set over the cups. The thick swivelling retainers were used from the seventies on with exhaust valves.

cptpugwash
30-12-13, 11:07 PM
thanks plumpcars
just tryed the new springs in the seats and put a straight edge on the top and they all seem the same height
should have thought of that to start with realy :) was worried for a min the seats were different heights

will bin those cups them,thats if iv read that right :)

did have a go with the impact driver,thought that was a good idea ...nuts still on though,gonna have to bite the bullet and jack her up to get on that flex plate

Plumpcars
31-12-13, 07:54 AM
The cup is an oil deflector and can stay tucked under the new retainers as long as they allow it.
Have you tried a spanner on the nuts and then striking the spanner with a hammer to loosen? Watch your fingers though.

stretch
31-12-13, 05:39 PM
pugwash, have you got it out yet!

cptpugwash
31-12-13, 07:00 PM
thats a little personal stretch :)
it was out earlier but she got bored and went out shopping only to come back moaning there was to many people out

got realy bored with decoking a head so

spent the rest of the day rummaging around in the dustbin bags trying to find those cups that sit over the springs
after throwing em out last night ........found em though :)

have a good new years

cptpugwash
02-01-14, 05:28 PM
bottom pulley and the balancers off :woohoo:
looks like the crank seal on the timing covers been leaking...loads of oil everywere :confused:
just got to loosen the sump bolts ease it down a tad and hopefully the chain cover can come off, find out then if the cam is going to come out or some metal works gotta be reshaped, pugwash fashion :noob:
looks like rain for the next few days though so not sure when thats going to happen

SG57
02-01-14, 05:38 PM
You can buy a cover system that eliminates the need to drop the sump but I don't suppose you'll be doing it again so it would be a waste.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9923/overview/

Rog.

cptpugwash
02-01-14, 05:55 PM
thanks for the idea rog didnt know they did those, looks like a good idea
hopeing to be able to just button it up and leave it, but not sure how its going to run yet and the new chains got 3 different timing positions

stretch
02-01-14, 06:06 PM
pull it out and rotate it on kitchen table will give you a better view and easier to work on

cptpugwash
02-01-14, 06:52 PM
you got me thinking about that the other day stretch and worked out how to do it now, just got to make a cradle something like this but with big wheels
so can wheel it round to the back of the house,then just need a shed to put it in


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c5b45e50417.jpg

stretch
02-01-14, 07:08 PM
use a bakers trolley,they got decent size wheels or wickes trolley if you can get one,how wide you got to be with your access

cptpugwash
02-01-14, 08:24 PM
access at the back isnt to bad, was just an idea for the future maybe

cptpugwash
03-01-14, 05:14 PM
woke up to sunshine this morning so was out splashing paint around behind were the rad sits and had a cleaned up on the bulkhead behind the engine ready for some more decorating.................then it pissed down :(

cleaned a head up hopefully itll be clean enough to have some new guides fitted


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c6ed6f889cf.jpg

noticed a pair of holes, image they must be one of chevys speed secrets :)


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c6ee37f2008.jpg

looks like some valves have taken a bashing, looks quite pitted


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c6eee8e55d0.jpg

and a couple seem to have cracks on the end of the stems, not sure how that happens, might have to get some new ones


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52c6ef79299b0.jpg

pic doesnt seem to have come out to well


thanks for looking

fad15
03-01-14, 05:25 PM
Coming on a storm......
From the forecast you may want to get some sandbags around the car:incheek:

Chucks41
03-01-14, 06:46 PM
Hate to tell you this Captain but those heads are 624's the worst Chevy had ever made, only good for scrap.
Those extra ports are heat cross overs go between the centre exhaust ports to the inlet manifold side of the head, something to do with improving vacuum from cold. They are thin wall castings & very prone to cracking (How do I know, I've got a pair).

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/1/6/5/165_52c707c666f45.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/1/6/5/165_52c707c43f3bb.jpg

If you're planning to do work on them it would be probably advisable to look for a cheap pair to work on, more economical in the long run or at the very least have them crack tested.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I read somewhere while doing research on mine.

Melt them down, cast them into a boat anchor & sell that on eBay :eek:

As Stretch said about wheels, I think Asda trollies have some good wheels :whistle: Actually bought some transport ones from Lidl when they were on offer.

Good luck looking forward to seeing it in the kitchen.

Ian

cptpugwash
03-01-14, 09:53 PM
thanks for the info
not doing anything drastic just want to get the guides sorted

looks like your heads have bigger valves in them

:sniff: gonna have a beer :sniff:

cptpugwash
05-01-14, 01:30 AM
a little turmoil going on at the min
seen a 355 for sale, and realized i realy want a much older car
but realy attached to the old rover ..... know its complete history and every owner since it left the factory :sniff:

on a plus note got the other head cleaned up ready for some new guides, still thinking about ians advice
although nearly ened up divorced in the process, was busy with the drill n listening to fav girls aloud record on the ipod and never heard the misses banging on the door cos the catch was up, seems she had been trying for a hlaf hour or so to get in, didnt help either when she noticed the hover was being used to hover the bits off the head....some women have no sence of humour :)

anyways heads off to reel steels next week hopefully and looks like the weathers going to be dry next weekend so hopefully old cam out then :)

thanks for looking

satan
05-01-14, 01:42 AM
thanks for the info
not doing anything drastic just want to get the guides sorted

looks like your heads have bigger valves in them

:sniff: gonna have a beer :sniff:

You dont need big valve heads on a 305ci. they will be shrouded but the small bore and you will lose port velocity. see if you can find a set of 305HO. HEADS.
# 14014416 OR # 14022601 THEY GOT 58CC chambers so you get a free increase in compression. and they have hardened seats. just clean up the ports a little [plenty of info on the www.] and your good to go. If you got a bit more cash to spend a set of 10088113 aluminium L98 heads. all these heads will bolt on a 350ci should you decide to upgrade at a later date. good luck.

cptpugwash
05-01-14, 07:45 PM
thanks satan
made a note of the numbers, will keep an eye out during the year

cptpugwash
08-01-14, 06:16 PM
heads with reel steels
might need a whole new set of valves, seems the cracks on top of the stems are caused by bits of grit :confused:
but the helpfull fella did say the guides didnt look to bad, seems the little ring seals that go around the valves arnt to good and going to be looking at the umbrella type seal
just got to wait for a price :confused: fingers crossed

was cleaning a tone of caked on oil of the harmonic balancer and noticed its got a monster groove around the outside of the part that goes on the crank
little googleing revealed the oil seal wears a groove in them and doesnt seal properly :confused:

SG57
08-01-14, 06:56 PM
heads with reel steels
might need a whole new set of valves, seems the cracks on top of the stems are caused by bits of grit :confused:
but the helpfull fella did say the guides didnt look to bad, seems the little ring seals that go around the valves arnt to good and going to be looking at the umbrella type seal
just got to wait for a price :confused: fingers crossed

was cleaning a tone of caked on oil of the harmonic balancer and noticed its got a monster groove around the outside of the part that goes on the crank
little googleing revealed the oil seal wears a groove in them and doesnt seal properly :confused:

You can get the damper sleeved.

Rog.

cptpugwash
08-01-14, 09:06 PM
thanks rog
thought about asking about them last night but didnt in the end and splashed out on a new one today

good info for the future though :)

SG57
08-01-14, 10:36 PM
thanks rog
thought about asking about them last night but didnt in the end and splashed out on a new one today

good info for the future though :)

Probably the best idea, just make sure that it is the correct one.

Rog.

cptpugwash
11-01-14, 04:36 PM
with a little hacking and bashing .... old cams out :woohoo:

no pics though, looks like complete carnage has gone on :)

cptpugwash
13-01-14, 06:22 PM
Probably the best idea, just make sure that it is the correct one.

Rog.

its the same diameter but the TDC mark is in a different place, had a read of the leaflet that came with it and says it needs a timing pointer that bolts on with the chain cover
also says it needs warming up in the oven or a pan of boiling water just before fitting :confused:

old chain cover looks like its going to be a pretty tight fit with the new double chain too, not going to be much room left between the front of the chain and the back of the cover :confused:


over than that ...all is well with the world :)

cptpugwash
17-01-14, 06:46 PM
Had a small mishap with the temp sender a couple weeks ago,got a idea the 2 brass nuts had been soldered together but they came apart when removing the sender
the 2 nuts pretty much just sit on top of eachother

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52d976c25a022.jpg


have tryed to find an adapter but seems the large nut is a 1/2" npt fitting and the sender size is 5/8th unc ...could be all wrong on that though
so have found a new nut that fits inside the big one ......its just how to join the 2


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52d9793fe71b1.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52d9793fbca46.jpg

dont laugh but have shinney new tube of jbweld does say its for copper brass and bronze but realy dont hold out much hope for it

satan
17-01-14, 07:06 PM
Had a small mishap with the temp sender a couple weeks ago,got a idea the 2 brass nuts had been soldered together but they came apart when removing the sender
the 2 nuts pretty much just sit on top of eachother

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52d976c25a022.jpg


have tryed to find an adapter but seems the large nut is a 1/2" npt fitting and the sender size is 5/8th unc ...could be all wrong on that though
so have found a new nut that fits inside the big one ......its just how to join the 2


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52d9793fe71b1.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52d9793fbca46.jpg

dont laugh but have shinney new tube of jbweld does say its for copper brass and bronze but realy dont hold out much hope for it

just get the sender with the larger thread,[I believe they are available in bothe thread sizes] failing that tap the one you have and chuck the other piece away.

fad15
17-01-14, 07:20 PM
Or silver solder the 2 together after you have cleaned the surfaces up to removal ALL the soft solder.
Silver solder is a couple of quid a stick and can be used with a gas blow torch and pencil flame. I love S Solder as its stronger than you need in most cases on a car, and easy to use. You will need flux as well, but mine is 30 years old and still working.

Otherwise as above...

cptpugwash
17-01-14, 08:02 PM
just get the sender with the larger thread,[I believe they are available in bothe thread sizes] failing that tap the one you have and chuck the other piece away.

was thinking about tapping it but think its going to end up a little thin


Or silver solder the 2 together after you have cleaned the surfaces up to removal ALL the soft solder.
Silver solder is a couple of quid a stick and can be used with a gas blow torch and pencil flame. I love S Solder as its stronger than you need in most cases on a car, and easy to use. You will need flux as well, but mine is 30 years old and still working.

Otherwise as above...

that sounds like a good idea, might give that a go tomomorow got a few brass bits to practice on and itll be something new to try :tup:
might try and find a sender the same size too got a feeling the brit ones dont go that big though and would like to keep the original gauge in the dash

thanks for the ideas :tup:

fad15
17-01-14, 08:08 PM
Its easy. Clean the brass, coat it in flux (Borax if I remember), heat to cherry red and dip the solder on it. It flows real easy and you can 'guide' it around the fitting with the flame. Best thing is the remelt temperature is higher than the initial solder temp so you can add bits without the original joint flowing agin.

Did I say? I love S Solder.

cptpugwash
24-01-14, 07:02 PM
havnt tryed the soldering yet, but will be in the morning now the solders here

new heads have turned up too :mooooh: never seen valves so big n shiny before :)
thanks to carlos for that one from over the road and satan's advice :tup:

fad15
24-01-14, 07:28 PM
Been wondering what was happening with you and the 'cam change/rebuild/new engine/thought I may as well put a blower on it as its out of the car now'

cptpugwash
24-01-14, 07:51 PM
cant fit a blower fad15 ...high comp heads :D
must admit things have kinnda escalated a little

fad15
24-01-14, 08:33 PM
Thick copper gaskets????

cptpugwash
24-01-14, 11:27 PM
maybe the titles a little wrong now

just wrote a lengthy reply but it didnt sound right so deleted it

know its the bottom end of the scale to what you guys get up to, but hopefully will be able to put a vid up at the end of her running again :)

cptpugwash
25-01-14, 06:19 PM
have tryed to edit the title but cant see how to do it

didnt fancy going out there much today but arfter a little forced motivation
finnished the painting on the bulkhead behind engine, just got to give it a little rub down
finnished painting behind were the rad goes
cleaned the head bolt threads on one side started the other side but got realy windy bonnet kept blowing shut :tdown: then poured down
cleaned up the bottom pully, quiet pleased how that came out
first coat of paint on the bottom rad mount and had a look at the heads

new heads have screw in studs, guess its ok to just bolt the rockers down on them, but not sure if they different length or something from the standard stud


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e3fcc8d1771.jpg

funny old thing realy, were the temp sender was, the hole in the new heads is smaller than in the other heads, but it will go in the inlet manifold just got to alter the fuel pipe to the carb


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e3fdee9a407.jpg

shiny inlet valves figured these have got to be good for an extra 100hp :)


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e3fe66ca141.jpg

other heads different shape chamber and little inlet valves


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e3ff1fc541d.jpg

ended up quite enjoying the day :)

cptpugwash
26-01-14, 02:20 PM
had a go at silver soldering the flux came in a powdered form and the paper work said when the powder melts your good to go
but didnt mention as soon as you put the torch on it, it blows off everywere :grr:

first attempt came out realy pants

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e51608ce03b.jpg

dint think it was hot enough, and wondered if the vice takes some of the heat away
but arfter a little perseverance

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e516cd16f09.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e516cc008a9.jpg

seems to be pretty solid fingers crossed

been itching to take some valves out and found some unbrella type seals on the inlets :)
not sure what springs were fitted but the old spring compressor didnt like them much, dont like doing that job much


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e51765698c7.jpg

think the ports need a little clean up, imagine they have been sitting a while
and might give the seats a fine grind


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52e518db84e53.jpg

fad15
26-01-14, 03:02 PM
You can mix the powder with a little water, or spit as I do. Then becomes a paste and will stay where you put it. Normally need brass red hot. Just keep dipping the end of the rod till it melts and watch it flow like water.

cptpugwash
26-01-14, 06:07 PM
ahhhh thats why it didnt then, thought it was somebody on a wind up selling that powdered stuff
know now though for the future :)

Jungle Jim the white
27-01-14, 10:31 AM
Looks like you are making some good progress. keep up the good work!

Col
27-01-14, 02:24 PM
Am I reading this thread right? Are you using odd ( two different) heads on this engine, or did I miss something?

cptpugwash
27-01-14, 09:30 PM
Looks like you are making some good progress. keep up the good work!

thanks jim


Am I reading this thread right? Are you using odd ( two different) heads on this engine, or did I miss something?

sorry Col it might all come across as a little disjointed at the min
i had an oil leak from the front of the inlet manifold, so thought time to sort it and do a little cleaning up
whilst turning the engine over to get TDC before taking the dizzy out i notice there seemed to be a some play in the chain when turning it back n forth

asked the question on here if it was normal and it was suggested the chain might be at the end of its service life
was also suggested if the chain has to be changed ..might as well put a cam in
gave that some thought and as the engines 30 odd years old now and as stock as a rock and arfter a little measuring to see if it would come out without taking the engine out, thought it was a good idea

decided to go for a comp cams 286HE as their web site says its good for a stock converter and a 8.5.1 comp ratio
along with a new set of springs and lifters ..........and a new timing chain :) the old chain did have loads of wear

arfter removing the heads, found the tops of some of the valve stems had what looked like cracks in them and one looked like it had been hit with a hammer
and thought they needed a new set of guides, could see oil all around the inlet valves
put some pics up on here of them

decided to take them to reels steels to see if they would have a look at them
they said the guides were not to bad but a new set of valves were needed and a set of umbrella type stem seals on the inlets
and they would phone in a week with a price

in the meantime a list of head casting numbers was suggested, that are ment to be better than the original pair
made a note of them and thought ill keep and eye open for some if they come up

had been doing some googling on that 286 cam while this was going on and a lot of people on american forums and sites seemed to be saying it realy benefits from higher comp ratios than the one stated on comp cams site

anyways a couple weeks ago on thursday reel steel phone with price, seemed ok so gave them the go ahead
on the sat night was looking through the for sale section and low and behold and pair of heads came up for sale 58cc ones (the ones in the new pics)
spent all sat night and sunday thinking about them and whether to go for it or not, some pms with the devil and a chat with the misses
come sunday night a deposit was payed and the budget completely blown

not 2 odd heads Col but one orginal 62cc pair at reel steels at the min
and a new 58cc pair just brought (ones in the new pics)

hope that all makes sence :)

cptpugwash
31-01-14, 09:48 PM
dropped the rad off for a refurb, noticed the bottom of it has started to go,little surprised it handnt sprung a leak
and going to have 2 little pipes removed that used to go to the fan switch's. have never really used them as much prefer to use a couple switch's on the dash


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52ec14c438761.jpg

picked the (original)62cc heads up from reel steel,their looking really good,all newly lined guides, new valves, new seats and unbrella stem seals.
going to keep hold of them for the min just incase theres any probs with the 58cc heads.
if all goes well with the 58cc heads then will be putting them up for sale

looks like rain is forecast tomorrow :tdown:
so think cleaning up the ports on the 58cc heads and a fine valve grind is going to be on the cards
feels like the half way point is here now so hopefully should be able to start putting her back together in a couple weeks
really looking forward to seeing how she goes

a line locks next on the cards :D
and arfter that prob a new axle :whistle: ....or 2

Col
01-02-14, 11:04 AM
Yep Gotcha!
That all makes sense now. Thanks for clearing that up. That head and cam combo should wake it up a bit.

cptpugwash
01-02-14, 04:58 PM
hope so Col :)

its been nice and sunny here this morning, so popped outside and polished up the paint on the bulkhead behind the engine, put all the bits n bobs back on it, but seemed to have lost one of the clips somewere that holds a brake pipe in place :beuj:
finnished cleaning out the head bolt threads in the block
finnished the painting behind the rad and sprayed a little waxoyle around inside the front valance whilst its easy to get to

didnt fancy laying under the car much so come in for some valve grinding

before


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52ed2617a578f.jpg

arfter


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52ed26603f692.jpg

and during ................bummer :(

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52ed271760154.jpg

cptpugwash
02-02-14, 03:09 PM
the first new part fitted :) .....and its a racing one so it says on the box :)

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52ee5e1b1329e.jpg

underneath fraggle rock :( not keen on going under there much

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52ee5f735c05b.jpg

cptpugwash
07-02-14, 06:39 PM
have a prob with these screw in studs, the thread doesnt seem to go down far enough :beuj:
and wondering if i might need a new set of slightly longer push rods to allow for the height of the nut on screw in studs :beuj:


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52f527feca85b.jpg

cptpugwash
07-02-14, 08:51 PM
sussed it ...had a small moment of madness :)

fad15
07-02-14, 09:08 PM
Just looked at your title to this thread.
Cam Change.

Mmmm looks like a hot rodders cam change to me, heads, more heads, valve gear, what next I wonder???

might just drop the body off so i can tidy up the chassis:confused:

Plumpcars
07-02-14, 09:51 PM
:tup:

cptpugwash
07-02-14, 11:34 PM
Just looked at your title to this thread.
Cam Change.

Mmmm looks like a hot rodders cam change to me, heads, more heads, valve gear, what next I wonder???

might just drop the body off so i can tidy up the chassis:confused:

whilst waiting for some new studs, thought it was time to have a go at some landscaping :incheek:

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52f56d20de538.jpg

cptpugwash
08-02-14, 08:15 PM
just for uncle fad


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52f68f4292637.jpg

jezz those little clip things that go on the end of the valves sure are fiddley f*****s :grr:

spring compressors bit the dust too

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_52f69032d233e.jpg

cptpugwash
22-02-14, 06:55 PM
new rocker studs turned up today via summits i-parcel service
its pretty good you pay any duty's when paying for the item, so you know what the total is going to be and no little surprises when it arrives on the door stop, and it can be tracked for most of the journey


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_5308f07096a5f.jpg

can see the difference in the thread lengths, new one on the left and they are the same size as the standard press in ones


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_5308f106f308b.jpg

have tryed some of that wellseal sealer on the threads .......jezzz that stuffs sticky ended up covered in it :(

little cleaning to do under the car tomorrow, and then she's already to go back together :) next weekend
so fingers crossed for the weather

fad15
22-02-14, 07:13 PM
little cleaning to do under the car

told ya! :tup:

cptpugwash
01-03-14, 07:45 PM
Fitted the new cam today :) and lifters with plenty of that cam lube stuff
Fitted the new chain that has 3 different timing settings 2deg before 2deg after and one the same as the factory setting decided to go for the factory setting as the new cam paperwork says it already has 4deg of advance built into it
The bottom cog was a real tight fit to get on and cant believe how little slack there is in the chain now compared to the old chain
Makes the old chain look really loose and knackered, so a good call there from plumpcars suggesting it might be at the end of its life :tup:
Chain covers back on with a new timing tab to match the balancer, tryed some of the *wellseal* sealer and really like it just have to leave it a couple mins before fitting any parts
getting the bottom seal on with the sump on was a little tricky but hopefully it will be ok
Sumps all tightened back up, and decided to fill the new oil filter up,as so many people seem to mention doing it figured it couldnt hurt

Going to have a go at fitting the new balancer tomorrow, not looking forward to it much but hopefully itll go ok
it is nice putting stuff back though :)

Plumpcars
01-03-14, 07:55 PM
If you get stuck with the balancer I have an installer.

cptpugwash
01-03-14, 09:00 PM
Thanks for the offer plumpcars, did pick one up from reel steels

just had a look at the weather, says its going to rain tomorrow :(

Plumpcars
02-03-14, 06:43 AM
Dont force the balancer too hard. Let the installer do it's job and go slowly. When it goes tight it's because it's on. The tools snap easily if you go too violently.

cptpugwash
02-03-14, 03:26 PM
Its on :woohoo: wasnt to bad to honest, just kept turning the nut and all of a sudden it goes super tight so hopefully thats it
Wanted to check the new timing tab with the markings on the balancer to make sure they lined up when no1 was at tdc
Set tdc up with one of those cheap dial gauges of ebay ....it seems to work ok though


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_53134b234503e.jpg

It was showing about 2 degs out so just bent the tab around a little till it lined up ok


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_53134c53a8401.jpg

Spitting with rain here now, but if an early day at work pops up next week might be able to get the heads on during the week

fad15
02-03-14, 04:24 PM
good stuff.

cptpugwash
09-03-14, 07:26 PM
thanks uncle fad

wow what a weekend
had a day off work friday so thought great the weathers dry can get the heads on
got one out of the bag and noticed what looked like a piece of dirt on top of one of the rocker studs
turns out not to be a piece dirt, were the studs screw in its formed a crack so out with the magnifying glass and can see 3 off them have formed hair line cracks down the sides of the stud fixings and the other head has 2 :sniff: really gutted, did try taking a couple pics but cant realy see the cracks in them
not sure whats happened there but going to see if they can be welded at a later date and found an engine shop in hayes on the net that might be able to do the job
did think about still fitting them but decided not to and swapped the springs over to the original heads that reel steels have refurbed
managed to get them fitted friday and the inlet manifold and got the dizzy in

bad day sat
tryed ajusting the valves, just couldnt seem to get it right and really struggled finding the the point were the slack was just taken up (didnt give it a thought at the time to wiggle the pushrod up and down was just turning it from side to side)
ajusted a few of them but just had a gut feeling it wasnt right and arfter a lot of head scratching decided to pull the inlet off and call it a day
was one little good thing though, was reading edelbrocks paperwork for the inlet bolt torque settings and noticed they advice not to use the rubber end seals but use a bead of sealer instead so tryed that and when the manifold came off it seems to have covered really well and no sealer inside the valley

good day today weathers been awsome
valves all ajusted :tup: with some help from the tech section :tup:, found it much much easyer with the inlet off so can see whats going on and when that slack is just taken up
inlet back on and dizzy back in
set it up with 4degs of advance so hopefully she will fire on that


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_531cbdc5e7b46.jpg


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_531cbe231ec94.jpg

she's starting to look like an engine again


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_531cbea7b090c.jpg

rad fans are back in and the rad too
fingers crossed for being back on the road again soon

cptpugwash
12-03-14, 08:24 PM
job we are ment to be starting next week has been put back due to the resent bad weather so got the week off
should be able to have a whole week on it :tup: so hopefully it should be running again
figuring a week should be ok allowing for f*** ups and rain

cptpugwash
15-03-14, 06:13 PM
knackered
spent quite a while replacing the tranny hose's to the rad, they have been on for over 10 years and one was starting to weep a little
couldnt find anyone with 8mm hose yesturday so got some 10mm its a smidge to big for the pipes but hoping its going to hold up if not its quite easy to change now its been re routed
hade a go at flaring the ends of the pipes too for the tranny pipes was a real pain with the crappy tool iv got but managed 3 of them just couldnt get the tool on the last one
still got most of the list done though :)
exhaust back on is the next job but its super awkward so not looking forward to it much
then its just little jobs, finnishing hooking the carb up, dizzy cap, leads, hoses alternater ect
nearly ready to put some oil in n fire her up :woohoo:

figuring its going to good for at lest 400 hp :)...........once its tweaked a little

Plumpcars
16-03-14, 06:33 AM
Be careful with that trans cooler hose. I laughed recently when I watched someone on a forum proclaim they would not be a problem as the pressure is low on them. I've seen more of those hoses fall off over the years(Not my own I hasten to add) than I care to remember, normally when we were travelling as a group. I know others on here will have witnessed the same. Think Automotive are a handy supplier of hose.

cptpugwash
16-03-14, 06:45 PM
thanks for that advice plumpcars, think ill change it during the week

nearly there just got the alternator to fit
steering pump to paint, trans pipes to change , fillup with fluids, fresh petrol and give the battery a charge up


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_5325f02e10a5f.jpg

just had to cut a little metal out to get the cam out and just bent it over
am going to finnish painting the engine bay during the summer


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_5325f03ce0676.jpg

then just to fire her up :)

fad15
16-03-14, 07:11 PM
looking very very nice. There you did it. :rule:

cptpugwash
16-03-14, 07:35 PM
thanks uncle fad :)
not quite there just yet...have to see if she starts, run the cam in, sort out any leaks, get her timed up maybe change the jetting (carbs been put back to factory settings)
and the fun bit....see how she drives :)

little nervous about all that stuff :)

cptpugwash
17-03-14, 10:10 AM
Ordered some 8mm hose of the net last night, hopefully it will be here before thursday as the weatherman says its going to rain :grr:
Dont really want to fire her up before changing them, thinking once they are full of trans fluid it could get really messy under there :tdown:

Thought this might be worth a mention, Reel Steels recommended this Comp Cams oil seems modern oils dont have enough zinc content in them for the older engines
So going to be giving it a go, seems you have to leave it in for a 1000 miles then change the oil and filter and use the additive again
Reading Comp Cams paperwork they recommend using the additive with every oil change


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_5326c76eb34b8.jpg

Been thinking about the timing and not to sure what to set it at
Have never set the total timing before and not sure how to do it or understand it so only going to set the initial timing
Used to set her at around 4 degrees anything more and she didnt seem to like it, used to pop back through the carb, pain to start and sounded like pinking
Although reading about ajusting the lifters i may well have set then wrong in the past wich might have caused that stuff
So not sure whether to stick with 4 degrees or go for something a little more adventurous :)

Plumpcars
17-03-14, 11:56 AM
A small block often likes around 36deg total. That is the initial setting plus whatever mechanical advance the distributor has. The mechanical advance is the amount controlled by the bob weights flying out as their speed increases. Total does not include vacuum advance, that is a separate system.
As an idea say a performance street 350 has an MSD distributor. It probably comes with a total mechanical advance of 22 deg. If you set the initial timing at 14deg then the two combined will give you 36deg. Distributors vary in what mechanical advance they have so that 22deg figure will be different for different distributors. Sometimes the amount of total mechanical advance can be altered by moving an end stop which limits travel.
You can also control the rate at which the advance comes in. On a stock system those bobweights might not be all of the way out until 3000rpm. If you lighten the springs that control them then they fly out quicker and can be all out by say 2000rpm. Normally a sbc with a good street cam likes a quicker curve so it can be worth playing with different spring rates.
This is all measurable either with a dial back timing light or by a fixed light and a degree'd harmonic balancer. The thing that will limit the amount of advance or even the rate is pinking and you really need to avoid that as it will quickly damage an engine.
The bottom line is that you end up with an advance setting and curve that works best for your personal engine as all combinations vary.

cptpugwash
17-03-14, 08:16 PM
Thanks for taking the time to explain that plumpcars
Have got a standard HEI dizzy, not sure what the total advance is on it though but have put a set of softer springs on the weights and have a Span On light so going to have a go at setting the total timing once she running, be interesting to see what difference it makes

She's all ready to go now :woohoo: just have to change those pipes check the battery for charge and put some fresh squirt in
Going to have a go friday the wifes back from Scotland then and might be able to twist her arm to keep an eye out for leaks and stuff while im trying to keep her above 2 grand for 20mins or so and fighting with the neighbours for making to much noise going to be hatted for the day but we have to put up with their noise so :finger: em

cptpugwash
21-03-14, 09:25 AM
D-Day
its ether going to be :woohoo: or :(

stilltrying
21-03-14, 10:04 AM
Baited breath at this end:D

cptpugwash
21-03-14, 12:39 PM
most nerv racking thing ever done
didnt fire first time but a little tweak on the dizzy n vroooooom :tup: n jezzzz forgotten how noisey she is, sounded like a bag of spanners to start with but seemed to settle down and the rev counter didnt work :eek: one of the cables had come off so dont know what rpm it was running at just guessed it by next doors scowling face
inlets leaking front and back and looks like one of the trans cooler pipes is leaking but going to look at that tomorrow
just set the intial timing at 6 degrees for the min but she sounds like a totally different engine now
had a quick blast round the block and feels a lot more responsive too, just seems to want to go with very little throttle

well pleased and many thanks to all who helped with ideas and surggestions :tup:

would like to get those 416 heads sorted and maybe try and sort some headers next and maybe try and find a local rolling road to see what power this engine makes so you might see updates and more dumb questions pop up on here every now and then :)

thanks for looking


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wywjdTjEJw

stilltrying
21-03-14, 01:17 PM
WEll you must have guessed the right RPM if only a scowling face then that's about right, bright red is about 4000rpm and the police coming round is about 5500-6000rpm.:D

Don't know if this is a myth but there was said to be a top fuel rail built on an estate in north London (late 80's I think) and they used to tell all the neighbours they would be firing it up to test before a weekend at the pod, supposedly set off car alarms and vibrated windows, so you are in good company.

Minor leaks can be sorted but at least it breaths fire again and you can feel a difference which makes it all worth while:tup: Also doing it bit at a time means it isn't off the road for years like my rebuilds end up another:tup:

cptpugwash
21-03-14, 06:19 PM
that must have been something to hear around an estate :)

fad15
21-03-14, 07:18 PM
Just love a happy ending. I can appreciated your trepidation on that first turn of the key, always a weak bladder moment. You did good for a redneck:incheek:

Just one question... oil pressure gauge was looking very low. I know its on tick over, just want to know its all tickety boo?

My neighbors actually asked me to fire up the Altered when it was on the trailer one Friday night. They loved it, but I'm lucky with the lot around me.

EFI is fun:evil:

cptpugwash
21-03-14, 08:54 PM
the oil pressure on that gauge has always been like that uncle fad,the gauge isnt matched to the sender but it reads about 10-15lb on idle when hot and around 30lb when driving and the tickover was a little low there, although image the bottom end may have some wear now it may not have been touched since it left the factory (could be next winters job ....a stroker :))

just been out for a test drive, n gezzzzzzzz does she go :D like a whole different car
feels loads smoother and responcive now and used to have a ticking noise around 2grand but thats gone, hit the throttle around 1800rpm n just picks up n flys
do have a slight hesitation when pulling away but the a/f gauge is showing shes running to rich so a little tweaking needed there
no pinking either so might have a stab at doing the total timing, although imagine it needs a rolling road tune for that

cptpugwash
23-03-14, 02:48 PM
been messing around with the timing today, after a lot of googling seems they should be around 10 - 12 degrees
so decided to try 12 degrees and the engine sounds a lot better the idle seems to be a lot smoother and the vacuum has gone from 11-12 hg at around 800rpm to
a pretty steady 16hg and the a/f has gone to around 13.8 from 12.8 to 13.2 without touching the idle screws
havnt driven it though so not sure if she pinks or if the slight hesitations is still there

going to try and find a quiet spot some were and have a go at this mysterious total timing stuff next :)

Plumpcars
23-03-14, 04:06 PM
Total timing upsets the neighbours a lot less than running in a cam!

cptpugwash
23-03-14, 08:27 PM
might give it a go out the front depends if the fella oppersite is in or not
been reading might need an ajustable vacuum advance unit seems a standard one might have to much advance
wich lead to reading this

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/port-full-time-vacuum-23169.html

needed a lay down after only reaching page 4

Plumpcars
23-03-14, 09:03 PM
I use full time but it's got me into arguments before so I wouldn't comment now!

kapri
23-03-14, 09:59 PM
:
Total timing upsets the neighbours a lot less than running in a cam!


Tell me about it :embarrassed: and that was just on a Pinto!

cptpugwash
04-04-14, 02:47 PM
Had a few probs :confused:

Oil pressure sender packed up :( , pushed the boat out and fitted an autometer one cept the body of the sender caught on the manifold :grr: and had to cut a little away for it to fit
First time she's had a matching sender and gauge and reads around 35lb when driving and 12lb when warm on idle, figuring that must be fairly healthy for an old engine and 10/30 breaking in oil :)

Had an oil leak on the back of the inlet :grr:
Didnt use the rubber gaskets just put a bead of sealer along the the top of the block, but wont use that method again it really sucks :finger:
Pulled the manifold back off and have used the rubber gaskets this time,with a small bead of sealer in each corner and a small bead underneath them to hold them in place, havn't seem any leaks since so hopefully thats sorted it

Ajusted the rockers again
Noticed a little tick, so had another go at ajusting them and a couple were loose but found it loads easyer this time with oil in them and used v8jimmeys method
Ticks gone now :)

Trying the timing at 12 degrees for the min, been reading a HEI dizzy has 20 degrees total and have fitted some lighter springs on the bob weights so figuring thats got to be around 32 total just havnt checked what rpm its totaled at.......going to have a mess around once the leaks are conquered

Sounds nice at the min 17hg at idle and quite smooth.............not as choppy an idle was hoping for though :beuj:
First propper blast coming up sunday, going to take a loada tools just incase and be interesting to see what she does to the gallon now

Plumpcars
04-04-14, 03:20 PM
I would say oil pressure is common to what I've seen on many older small blocks. I still stand by my own choice of oil for them. The valley leak is a tricky one and I would go with what suits you rather than what is fashionable. I like the sealer method but there are conditions. One is that if the manifold is moved even slightly after putting it down then the sealer can move and consequently not seal 100%. This is easily visible on the front bead but not so on the rear. The second problem is amount of sealer. When orange sealer first came out it was seen by owners of British motorcycles as the answer to their prayers regarding oil sealing. It was almost obligatory to see an orange bead around all joint faces. Then people had to strip them down following issues and what was often found... As much sealer floating around inside as was in a complete tube. What constitutes the perfect bead? I have seen small blocks where the bead has squelched over in rather large amounts into that rear area, a bit too close to some important holes to be trustworthy.
Timing is worth a play with and in my experience you're on the right track. We have just done the same with my Mopar, including welding the advance slots to restrict the total and be able to lift the lower setting. A pain in the butt compared to a Chevy but it is perfect now. Just make sure that you get no detonation and maybe keep things written down.
Lastly I would say be proud of what you tackled. If it was your first one then you should be smiling pretty well now. :) Great thread, thanks.

fad15
04-04-14, 05:39 PM
So all in all you did good. And you were so worried at the start:scared:.

Worth it though, wasn't it.:cool:

I expect a ride at Billing, along with smoked tyres and just under the 200 at the line

cptpugwash
04-04-14, 07:09 PM
Timing is worth a play with and in my experience you're on the right track. We have just done the same with my Mopar, including welding the advance slots to restrict the total and be able to lift the lower setting. A pain in the butt compared to a Chevy but it is perfect now. Just make sure that you get no detonation and maybe keep things written down.

Thanks Plumpcars
Imagine it takes some experience to get the sealer method right
That timing you have done sounds really complicated, how did you work out what timing curve (think thats the right term) is right for that engine
Did take the heads off a few years ago, but never replaced a cam before really pleased with it and got the bug now ..
and will keep a keen ear open for any pinking :)


So all in all you did good. And you were so worried at the start:scared:.

Worth it though, wasn't it.:cool:

I expect a ride at Billing, along with smoked tyres and just under the 200 at the line

Never been to Billing Uncle Fad
will keep an eye out for your yellow T at the shows during the year though :)

fad15
04-04-14, 07:14 PM
will keep an eye out for your yellow T at the shows during the year though :)

Just look for the grumpy old bastard next to something yella.
That'll be me

Plumpcars
04-04-14, 08:55 PM
Knew from feel and other cars that this wanted plenty of advance at idle. Problem is that certain distributors had a lot of centrifugal advance in them so if you set a high initial the total at higher rpm then becomes too much and you get detonation. With some distributors this is easily adjustable but this one is older technology and I wanted to keep it on there. The spring rate which then dictates the manner in which the advance feeds in I've always played about with by trial and error though a dyno would be a nice thing to have for a true view of the results.

cptpugwash
04-04-14, 10:08 PM
Must take some skill to do that just by feel and knowing what adjustments are needed
Would imagine with the ecu and the new fangled tuning chips that skills going to die out, think it'll be a shame

Did do a search on the net for a local dyno but it didnt come up with anything, used to be one opposite feltham borstal so a friend was saying but would imagine its gone now but havnt looked and heard there was a good one in hayes but said on the net they have closed down

Plumpcars
05-04-14, 06:43 AM
Put me with chips/ecu's and laptops and I'm totally lost. The older technology was fairly basic. In fact the set up on my 55 is above me so I've gone to somebody who I respect for their knowledge and it means a fresh learning start. Dyno's? There is Power engineering in Uxbridge but the general word I was given was to go to Atspeed in Essex or I believe Surrey Rolling Road may do it who are fairly near you.

cptpugwash
16-08-14, 12:20 PM
Thought this might be worth mentioning.....oil change time :)
Have done around the 1000 miles with the brake in oil now, and Reel Steels have given us this oil, i guess it coats the inside of the engine


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_53ef46f29eb67.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_53ef46f463743.jpg

Still a 10 - 30 though, imagine this is the last one to use, not sure how long to use it for the fella didn't say but guess it's the last one

Just got the timing to fine tune (saved Plumpcars message for future reference) , little tweak on the carb arfter and shes all done :tup:

Get those heads sorted next and a stroker kit.....think that should be enough to rip the back end outta the car :)


Just a little side note, been tuning the Edelbrock carb and found this book really helpful for understanding how it works and for tuning

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rebuild-Modify-Carter-Edelbrock-Carburetors/dp/1613250673/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408190591&sr=1-1&keywords=edelbrock

The old banger now goes like stink :)

fad15
16-08-14, 01:35 PM
:woohoo::woohoo:

Nice one mate and good on you for all the hard work and percipience. For me that would have worked out to a........

59 bottle (merlot), exercise.

kapri
17-08-14, 09:26 PM
Have you got an oil pressure gauge on the car ? I so I think you'll see straight away why you should use an oil to suit the age of the engine:(

I remember when 10/40 came out and it was said to be all singing and dancing and would save on fuel. Put in my old mans Hillman Hunter and it cost 10psi oil pressure across the range.

I also believe API SH has much reduced ZDDP which is an antiwear componenet although I note the can says NOT to be used with catalytic converter.

I never use any oil, in an old motor ,with a newer spec than SE.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php

Plumpcars
18-08-14, 06:24 AM
Kev the Penrite that I use is an SM grade. It is designed for 'our' engines, specifically high performance ones and racing, and carries a good helping of zinc. Like the Captain's oil above it states that it is not suitable for use with cats. Is the API spec more related to performance rather than content?
I'm not convinced yet by a 10/30 although they seem to love it in The States. I would be very interested in your feedback Captain. I once asked a friend over there why it was that we used 20/50 in older V8's and they went for something else despite using it for many years? His answer was simply that they couldn't get it easily!

kapri
18-08-14, 09:10 AM
The answer to the grade thing and high performance use can be found almost at the bottom of this article

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

As they are aftermarket performance oils they are not subject to the same restrictions as mainstream oil.

This section is particularly interesting re oil grades and cam wear API rating backward compatibility and 2V engines

My experience with 10/30 as above put me right off it.

Oil is one of those things that people will argue about all day long , like teh long running SAE30 vs 20/50 in Beetle engines. IS the new oil better or is it missing something that is vital in the older engine ?

I got some input from a Castrol tech rep over on R&S I'll see if I can find the thread.

kapri
18-08-14, 09:12 AM
Here you go, some valuable info on here and some good stuff from Flat Ernie re SM spec oil.

http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/topic/zzp-cam-failure-698

kapri
18-08-14, 09:15 AM
I know on later Ford 4 pots that putting the wrong viscosity in can blow the engine ( lifters I think ?) . A mate from way back was a real tight arse , found he could get marine oil from work for 'free' so did a dinnertime oil chage. It resulted in total lack of oil pressure by the time he got home.

Oil and filters are the lifeblood of an engine yet so many treat it as an afterthought ?

Plumpcars
18-08-14, 10:26 AM
Kev the Penrite that I use is a 20/60 mineral. It has 1570ppm zinc yet is M rated. The point being that you can use a later API rating as long as you study all of its details carefully.
We used to use Mobil in the workshop and when Mobil 1 came out I had long discussions with their tech guy about it for my own use. As well as the lower viscosity they produced a 20/50 synthetic for racing use which I tried in a Mopar but found no advantage/disadvantages. He had advised against the lower viscosity numbers.

kapri
18-08-14, 12:08 PM
Yes, understood Steve ;) Flat Ernies statement was as of 2009 , things may well have changed since them but as the oil bible says a lot of the specialised oils are exempt so a mainstream SM may well have only 800ppm but as you point out Penrite has far more .

I think this all confirms about making sure it's suitable for your personal application and don't just listen to a sales blurb / guy behind the counter / Halfords application list .

Plumpcars
18-08-14, 12:34 PM
Yep, research is the key. The internet is a minefield though as everybody has their favourite. Almost as hairy as glass v steel.

kapri
18-08-14, 12:48 PM
So many are good at 'cut and paste as well to give the impression they know what they are talking about .

cptpugwash
18-08-14, 02:57 PM
Some interesting links there Kev :tup: will have a proper look through them later, if only to figure out what you two are talking about :)
Oil pressure mmmmmmmmm the cars never had a matching gauge and sender till a few months ago, always figured as long as the needle moved things were fine :) at one point it must have gone around 4 years before a change, although the car didn't do to many miles,maybe 500 - 1000 a year
Been a little slack on oil grades and types too, just used to top it up with what ever was in the shed, did change it last year and used the Halfords 20-50 and the pressure did go up a little, but the engine is 38 years old now and the fella that fitted the engine can't remember if he changed big end bearings or not (did ask at Christmas)

Havn't changed the oil yet, so can do a short vid of running, kinnda before and arfter

Has this oil in at the min, its the oil they gave us and said run the engine for around 1000 miles then change it, but he did say they couldn't guarantee a new cam without using it


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_53f211990cc29.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_53f21199dc699.jpg

Can you have to much oil pressure though

Plumpcars
18-08-14, 03:46 PM
You can have more oil pressure than is good for you but I don't think you will. In a way there is a touch of what makes us feel good as well. If you remember ever driving old Jags or Daimlers they would go on forever with the gauge barely moving when hot and many accepted it. Looking forward to your feedback on that new stuff.

cptpugwash
18-08-14, 06:15 PM
Never driven a Jag, thought they are in the fav top 10 list :)

Think this should work, cold start,*needs to be played loud :)* tatty old dash is being junked in a couple of months as a good one is sitting in the spare room :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxCebQDf3ko

Warmed up, pressure does drop a little more if in gear arfter shes been driven around to 15psi ish



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIeZcwgMytk

Might be having Wednesday or Friday of work, might get a chance to put the new oil in then

Plumpcars
18-08-14, 06:23 PM
:tup: I like the idea of filming the data.

kapri
18-08-14, 07:00 PM
You can have more oil pressure than is good for you but I don't think you will. In a way there is a touch of what makes us feel good as well. If you remember ever driving old Jags or Daimlers they would go on forever with the gauge barely moving when hot and many accepted it. Looking forward to your feedback on that new stuff.


MkII 2.4 back when I was 18. Felt pad in the oil housing was often the culprit :)

cptpugwash
24-08-14, 04:39 PM
Oil pressures gone down after putting that oil in :confused:
Must have lost around 5lb or so, so decided its pants

Oils coming out the breather too, not much but..., can only think of one thing that might cause that :(

Plumpcars
25-08-14, 06:50 AM
I'll stand by my Penrite, as available in Feltham!

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=4

phunkie hiboy
25-08-14, 08:46 AM
Oil pressures gone down after putting that oil in :confused:
Must have lost around 5lb or so, so decided its pants

Oils coming out the breather too, not much but..., can only think of one thing that might cause that :(

10/30 oil is for modern day cars with tighter tolerances on mains, big ends and cam bearings. Your engine was never designed to use that thin a oil. I think you need to use a good 20/50, with maybe some additive. We still use a 20/50 in the Cosworth, because that is what recommended back in the '80s for that age and style of engine with the machining tolerances of engines in the '80s.
As for the breather thing, if you go back to the spark plug thread and see what I said about the plug that you pictured and that it looked as if it had a bit of a sheen on the surface above the threads, wouldn't surprise me if there was a connection there.

fad15
25-08-14, 09:50 AM
I'll stand by my Penrite, as available in Feltham!

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=4

So this should be OK for my 350HO GM crate motor? circa late 80s

Plumpcars
25-08-14, 10:11 AM
We use it in a ZZ4 crate motor as well as plenty of earlier motors and it has always performed well. Holds good pressure and never had any lubrication issues at all. The car is driven hard. I hesitate to suggest it because some have frowned upon it but sod it, I spent enough of my life involved with oil to feel comfortable with my choice.

cptpugwash
25-08-14, 10:22 AM
I'll stand by my Penrite, as available in Feltham!

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=4

Thanks for the link :tup:
Going to dump that oil and try some of that stuff, Moss are just up the road too


10/30 oil is for modern day cars with tighter tolerances on mains, big ends and cam bearings. Your engine was never designed to use that thin a oil. I think you need to use a good 20/50, with maybe some additive. We still use a 20/50 in the Cosworth, because that is what recommended back in the '80s for that age and style of engine with the machining tolerances of engines in the '80s.
As for the breather thing, if you go back to the spark plug thread and see what I said about the plug that you pictured and that it looked as if it had a bit of a sheen on the surface above the threads, wouldn't surprise me if there was a connection there.

Thanks, might have to starting thinking about having a re bore done and maybe a set of flat top pistons, that's going to take some planning as it would be a trip into the complete unknown :confused:

fad15
25-08-14, 01:17 PM
We use it in a ZZ4 crate motor as well as plenty of earlier motors and it has always performed well. Holds good pressure and never had any lubrication issues at all. The car is driven hard. I hesitate to suggest it because some have frowned upon it but sod it, I spent enough of my life involved with oil to feel comfortable with my choice.

Im more than happy with your experience. Thanks

All I got to do now in not loose this link. be warned for PM in the future asking for exactly what we have be talking about:beuj:

kapri
25-08-14, 01:43 PM
We use it in a ZZ4 crate motor as well as plenty of earlier motors and it has always performed well. Holds good pressure and never had any lubrication issues at all. The car is driven hard. I hesitate to suggest it because some have frowned upon it but sod it, I spent enough of my life involved with oil to feel comfortable with my choice.

The /60 is definitely better for hot oil pressure , as shown by the Castro rep recommending in their 10/60 diesel. Looking at Steves link there is also plenty of Zinc in it and they even go as far as to say no additional zinc required. :)

cptpugwash
30-08-14, 04:26 PM
They didn't have that HPR 30 oil on the shelve so decided to go for this one, and gezzzz is it thick n sticky compared to the Comp Cams oil, even feels like it leaves a film on your hands

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=14&id_subcateg=69&id_products=75

Says its ok for engines that are left to stand for a while and as winters coming thought it might be good as the car doesn't normally get driven to much in the winter

Did notice they do a HPR 40 oil 20-70 and says its good for engines that use a little oil, might try that one when the oil gets changed next

Oil pressures gone back to what it used to be, but the biggest difference is the pressure at idle, its doesn't drop much below 26 -28lb now were as before it used to drop to around 10 - 12lb when hot

Good call there Plumpcars :tup: going to be sticking with this stuff from now on, even if it means having to venture into a MG shop

Plumpcars
30-08-14, 04:39 PM
I just wear a Chevy shirt rather than a flat cap when I go in.

moparhemi345
26-09-14, 08:24 PM
What a great thread.
Just found it and read it all the way through.

Top job there capt.

Got any pics of the old banger?

cptpugwash
26-09-14, 09:17 PM
Thanks Mopar :), was an enjoyable journey with help from the good folks on here, Stretch and Plumpcars gave us the idea

Havn't really got to many pics im affraid

moparhemi345
26-09-14, 09:59 PM
Love it:tup:
Looks hard as.

Getting the itch now....mine's been hibernating for too long

cptpugwash
26-09-14, 10:15 PM
:tup: give her a blast Mopar

cptpugwash
25-12-14, 11:38 PM
Had a little try at something this evening, been thinking about trying a rwyb next year but was thinking a nice ratchet shifter would come in handy but turns out can just push the standard shifter forward without having to press the button (money saved there to put towards a new LSD axle) :tup: ..anyways thought id give it a try on the way home this evening tryed it in 2nd gear n planted the pedal n jezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz just over 5 grand was there in a flash and the power wasnt even dropping off and fright the life outta myself, really curious now to find out how power the motor makes, although pretty sure its not quite enough at the min as the misses wasnt screaming :) (only experienced once when the old banger had a little steering shake due to some bad wheels n tyres and a Ferrari was on the road, nearly hit 70 :) )

Satan , English Impala and a few others that commented on a thread were right 305s although they get a bad press can be a fun motor :tup:

and am still thinking about a comment Plumpcars made a couple days ago about whether its worth a go at rebuilding the bottom end :tup:

Not a hotrod or a classic muscle car and doesnt really fit in anywhere and no doubt frowned upon, but kinnda weirdly i like it that way, although would dearly love a Challenger, or a replica Super Stock car or a hotrod.... but the old bangers kinnda got me soul in it, if that makes sense, afrter a beer :)........Hic!

brizey
26-12-14, 03:02 PM
......Not a hotrod or a classic muscle car and doesnt really fit in anywhere and no doubt frowned upon, but kinnda weirdly i like it that way......
It`s what I`d call a `sleeper` Kev, outwardly stock, but when you want to play....weeeeeeee :tup:

cptpugwash
26-12-14, 08:56 PM
Hopefully be on a rolling road in the new year Brian, thanks to the fellas over the road :tup:

Hopefully will be able to post up some graphs, as long as she stays in one piece, will be happy with anything over 150hp but image its not going to be ground shaking ............ anyone got any stabs in the dark, closest guess wins a in very good condition second hand Christmas cracker, cept the hats missing :happy:

Dazee
27-12-14, 12:18 PM
I could really use a second hand cracker, I'll say 161hp, go for it:)

fad15
27-12-14, 01:12 PM
With or without the NOS?:incheek:

cptpugwash
27-12-14, 02:30 PM
No nos Gerry :), maybe a new set of plugs, change of primary jets from the economy ones and a maybe a little timing tweek :)

Torment
27-12-14, 03:50 PM
170.

fad15
27-12-14, 04:52 PM
201, that would make me happy and you as well. I think

cptpugwash
19-02-15, 04:41 PM
201, that would make me happy and you as well. I think

Thanks Gerry, booked in for next Friday, little nervous as haven't been on a rolling road before but kinnda looking forward to it at the same time :)

cptpugwash
27-02-15, 09:07 PM
Had a trip out in the sun today to http://www.surreyrollingroad.co.uk/index.php as recommended by some of the fellas from over the road and had an excellent time :), deffo going again.
Pulled in to be confronted by 3 shinny scoobys and boy o boy do those lads make some power, the one that was already on the dyno was making a smidge under 350hp and apparently had a poor fuel pump and coil pack, what ever that is :beuj:, just thought *gulp* well outta the comfort zone here but the lads and turned out to be all top fellas :tup:

The old banger did better than i thought it would, going by figures of 305s making 130 -150 hp arfter some googling, but did a little better than that :tup:
and the owner didn't mess around, he ran the car till the power dropped off which was 5400 rpm, not bad as the cam paper work says its good for 5500rpm :tup:
He did mention the fueling was spot on so that's a :tup: for Edelbrock carbs and their jetting charts, and there wasn't any knocking so that's :tup: for Plumpcars timing tricks, but did say TH350's are really pants though and made a comment about the torque converter that went way over me head, but overall really enjoyed it, and thought the engine had a nice torque curve,nice and flat between 2000 - 4000 rpm right were its needed for a street car :)

Anyways the used cracker might have to be shared, Torment was nearly spot on with the HP at the wheels :eek:



http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_54f0d9d9abd67.jpg


But Gerry was 1 hp closer at the fly wheel


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_54f0d7ad16681.jpg


Not to bad considering the crate 350's seem to be listed around the 225hp mark

Heads to sort out next and maybe some headers (if i can find some that will fit) then back down there again, as got the bug now

Did have a small casualty of the day too :( front alternator bearing seems to have decided to go into retirement


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_54f0d92bbec98.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_54f0d92d4f625.jpg

Just have to try and get the bearing out somehow :confused:

moparhemi345
27-02-15, 09:29 PM
Nice one!
Good torque there as well, must go well on the street.

BTW you're much braver than me, three of my mates have blown their motors on rolling roads, must admit it's put me off.
When people ask me 'what power you got?' I get all Rolls Royce on them and say....'enough' :D

cptpugwash
27-02-15, 09:48 PM
The owner was very good Mopar, he only does a couple of gentle runs first to see how your engines running and only really gives it the full beans on the last one
Did have the RAC card though just incase :)

moparhemi345
27-02-15, 10:02 PM
What does it cost, if you don't mind me asking?
Oh, and a little bit of flame on the ally around that bearing for a few minutes and it should just tap out. :tup:

cptpugwash
27-02-15, 10:24 PM
Thanks for the tip :tup: was £50 and i guess your in there for an hour, guess that's kinnda the going rate, but they do some Saturdays for £40 if a group of people book in at the same time or can book in to tune your car at the same time and looked like the owner left you to get on with it as a couple of people were tuning a car as i pulled in, but not sure how much that would be

moparhemi345
27-02-15, 10:38 PM
That seems very reasonable, I thought it would be more than that.

Plumpcars
28-02-15, 09:08 AM
Great stuff. A good result I would say. TH350's aren't crap though, a few mods make them very good for a street car. There are better boxes but for your build I would stay with it. Poorly done burnouts tend to be a killer with them more than most else.
It's quite hard seeing your own engine at full chat though isn't it!

fad15
28-02-15, 09:32 AM
Nowt wrong with a 350 if its built well, they are IMO very good (sprags tend to be the weak spot) . The change to 4 speeds a lot of guys are doing gives better MPG and also closer ratios. Really depends on the car.
With the T being so light, (350 HO plus kinsler = 425BHP) I could run a 2 speed Glide with no problems at all. In fact I have eliminated the low on my shifter and just have P R N D.

By the way the biggest killer of TCs is bringing them, up on stall.

satan
28-02-15, 10:03 AM
[QUOTE

Heads to sort out next and maybe some headers (if i can find some that will fit) then back down there again, as got the bug now :[/QUOTE]

I still have those 'vette ally heads,, they would suit a 305ci pretty well, and a saving of a considerable amount of weight on the front end. :tup:
probably got some headers you could modify to fit too.

cptpugwash
28-02-15, 07:31 PM
It's quite hard seeing your own engine at full chat though isn't it!

It is, but at the same time pretty exciting and end up coming away with a big buzz, although if id had a go at rebuilding the bottom end id been cacking myself,do have some figures now though to work from :)

Never had a prob with the gearbox, it was just something the owner mentioned, at the same time he did sound a fan of Jag auto boxes.
400 hp in a T Bucket just sounds like a world of fun :tup:

Thanks for the offer Satan, do like the idea of the other heads raising the compression and they seem to be raved about on the net, just have to get them welded up, if they can be. Will bear you heads in mind though have you got the head numbers, always worry about stripping threads in ally stuff though
Things are super tight for headers

(changed that breather for a KN one now and no more oil leak on the rocker :tup:) (looking a little neglected under there too)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_54f2146ba0189.jpg

but wondered if some truck ones might fit, just look like the plugs might be a little awkward to get too, if you have any a similar shape laying around Satan


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/2/1/4/214_54f215148ce02.jpg

satan
02-03-15, 12:28 AM
• Aluminum performance head – used on ZZ4 engines
• Completely assembled with 1.940"/1.500" valves
• 163cc intake port
• 58cc combustion chamber
• No heat riser
• Angled spark plugs (5/8" hex, 3/4" reach, tapered plugs)
• 1.48" Valve spring seat diameter
• Screw-in studs (3/8" top, 7/16" bottom)
• Use head gaskets with stainless steel fire rings
• Raised, machined rocker rails
• Raised exhaust ports .100", requires Fel-Pro® gasket P/N 1470
• Use rail type rockers P/N 10089648, or kit P/N 12370838 (roller rockers!)
• Casting P/N 10088113

I have the correct gaskets for these heads,
I have some headers very similar to those in your pic.

Plumpcars
02-03-15, 06:16 AM
I took a pair of those heads off a Mate's ZZ4 and replaced with Darts. We put the ZZ4's on a mild 350 with a softish cam/carb/manifold. It went low 14's in the highish 90's. Was a good cheap upgrade.

kapri
02-03-15, 09:54 AM
Great stuff. A good result I would say. TH350's aren't crap though, a few mods make them very good for a street car. There are better boxes but for your build I would stay with it. Poorly done burnouts tend to be a killer with them more than most else.
It's quite hard seeing your own engine at full chat though isn't it!

You should try doing it with an aircooled Beetle lump , they sound like a bag of spanners at the best of times!

cptpugwash
02-03-15, 07:14 PM
Thanks for the info Satan, do wonder if there would be any clearance probs with the valves and the smaller 305 bore, how much was you thinking of asking for them

satan
02-03-15, 08:20 PM
Thanks for the info Satan, do wonder if there would be any clearance probs with the valves and the smaller 305 bore, how much was you thinking of asking for them

No problem with valve shrouding on a 305ci,as they are 1.94,/1.50 valves, stay well clear of 2.02.inlet equipped heads as you will actually hurt performance. and possibly run into clearance problems. theres two sets of springs that come with them, this will enable you to match the cam ect, and as I said the head gaskets are in on the deal too, I have no need for the rest of the valve gear, rockers ect, so they're included too, I was looking to get £450-475 but I'll let you have them for £425,and I'll throw in the headers too, It might be worth coming to Norfolk and seeing them in person and you will see exactly what's on offer. tea and grub provided. :tup:

cptpugwash
02-03-15, 08:56 PM
Thanks Satan, will mull it over for a couple of days but will let you know by the weekend ifs that's ok, which part of Norfolk are you in

satan
02-03-15, 09:10 PM
Thanks Satan, will mull it over for a couple of days but will let you know by the weekend ifs that's ok, which part of Norfolk are you in
no problems, should you decide to take a look you wont be disappointed.:tup:
Norwich outskirts, around 2,1/2 hours from you. :tup:

cptpugwash
14-03-15, 09:34 AM
Now the owner of a rather nice set of ally heads :),and surprised how light they are compared to cast ones

Thanks Satan :tup:

Just have to figure out which plugs to use with them now :beuj:

satan
14-03-15, 10:24 AM
Now the owner of a rather nice set of ally heads :),and surprised how light they are compared to cast ones

Thanks Satan :tup:

Just have to figure out which plugs to use with them now :beuj:

GM recommend and supply the heads with AC DELCO MR43LTS

you can cross reference to your prefered brand using the above # :tup: glad you like 'em.

cptpugwash
14-03-15, 02:18 PM
Seems there are a couple listed for them, one with a tapered seat and one with gaskets :beuj:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-178304.html

Need a quiet lay down arfter coming across this, and have decided to take up knitting instead,theres some very nice woolly hat patterns on ebay at the min :)

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22810455-Anti-seize-on-plugs-in-aluminum-heads.-Yes-or-No-

fad15
14-03-15, 02:22 PM
Need a quiet lay down arfter coming across this, and have decided to take up knitting instead,theres some very nice woolly hat patterns on ebay at the min :)

Me to. Have a glass or two of the old M. Time for a snooze on the sofa while I miss the rugby...:bored: