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gothic_sera
14-04-15, 06:35 AM
Righto, projects... change of plan from the twin turbo small block idea as an LQ motor turned up at the swap meet a couple of months back.

I can't leave anything alone, so even though my Camaro has only been on the road for a year it's currently in bits waiting for a transmission transplant. I've built a really strong 4L80E for it ready to put some serious horsepower through the chassis. When I rebuilt the car I did it with a similar thing in mind. Substantial subframe connectors, solid body bushings, extra bracing on the front subframe as well. I also fitted a very strong 12 bolt in the back, with Moroso Brute strength posi and forged half shafts. I have a lot more to do yet, but I'm stopping short of fitting any sort of roll cage, for now. As it's predominantly a road car.

Here it is. Been to a few shows in 2014. Currently powered by a strong 360 SBC putting out around 425hp. I've made a few underhood changes since the photo was taken, including fitting hydroboost and a different air filter to get rid of that horrible chrome one!

It's got multi-point EFI and wasted spark ignition (crank triggered) with Megasquirt II ECU.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/m_P1040120_zps3f2d9323.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/m_P1040121_zpsb3ab9a55.jpg

So in the quest for more horsepower I'm building an LQ (iron block LS) motor for this now with the intention of making around 600hp NA. With scope for some forced induction in the future.

I can't ever recall seeing an LQ motor for sale in the UK until I saw this one at a swap meet for a 300 ($450). It's all brand new but the block has some minor damage on the lower left corner. The heads are the stock truck ones, but I can get those skimmed and do all of the port work myself. I have a spare head that I can experiment with before I start on the real thing.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0744_zpsenvlamcv.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0745_zps86oa0l4f.jpg

Pulled all of the pistons out of the bores - all new but missing pins and locks. Not a major problem as I might need to get another set that has valve reliefs cut as I am pretty sure I am going to run into valve to piston clearance with the sort of cam I am planning to run.

Set about checking the rest of the block over for cracks and it all seems to be OK. Checked the bores and water jacket all over and found nothing - messy job with the dye pen fluids. So that just leaves the 2 on the bottom left corner of the block where some idiot has dropped it.

Drilled the ends of the cracks as deep as I can and ground them out. Haven't gone too mad with them as they aren't really in critical load areas of the block. But one of them is right on the back of the oil passage down the side of the block so it needs sealing up otherwise it'll leak oil. The areas of the block aren't too thick, so it should be possible to get enough heat into it.

This one is pretty simple.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/4198a4e2-a120-4be3-b460-984d3778122c_zpss7ij5ijs.jpg

The other is the one on the oil passage. The corner of the block was broken away where the sump bolt hole is. So I drilled it all the way through and then cut off the damaged part - not that it was held on by much anyway. The intention being to make a new threaded boss and dowel it to the hole I drilled through. I'll probably braze it up without the boss fitted and then just fit the boss later as it's not structural, it just needs to hold the back of the sump to the block. This gives the best chance of sealing up the crack... I think...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/P1040507_zpsjaagnemn.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/P1040508_zpslbgdioep.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/P1040510_zps0ugca3gr.jpg

You can buy an LS swap sump kit, but I'm not paying $200 plus $100 shipping for the privilege of that... So I've made a start on modifying the oil pan for the LQ motor. The original truck pan is 8" deep, way too much for the Camaro. So I've cut nearly 2" out of it. Trouble is it's lost a bit of capacity as a result. Just need some thicker alloy plate to arrive so I can get on with modifying it some more to add a bit of that capacity back. Should be able to get it done this weekend.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0789_zps82anyrrr.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0841_zpszrzpysrm.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0842_zpsdtrbchx8.jpg

Dazee
16-04-15, 11:26 AM
Interesting project,keep the updates coming.

gothic_sera
16-04-15, 11:39 AM
A package from DIY Autotune arrived earlier in the week, all the parts for the Megashift controller for the 4L80.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/10995618_245909068913197_3862759068127430104_n_zps mbnxaumi.jpg

Finished the controller off, got comms with the laptop sorted, just need to build the harness for it and connect it up to the ECU to see if I have CAN communication between the ECU and TCU. If so, I just need to finish putting everything back together so I can start using the car again.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/11138580_246322362205201_1297639123631304431_n_zps l6tujjth.jpg

gothic_sera
18-04-15, 07:56 PM
Made a proper mount for the ECU and TCU today - I was never really happy with the ECU stuffed under the centre console, and it was always a pain to get to.

Need to finish it off properly, and actually move the ECU, but for now the Megashift should be happy up there. Yes it's where the glovebox should be, but I don't have any need for one, and this is a much better use of the space.

I'll be building another ECU for the LQ install, so I'll leave the old ECU under the centre console for the time being.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0856_zpshuakodbx.jpg

Spent the rest of the day making the wiring harness for the transmission and also making a new bracket for the crank sensor. I've got the harness partially installed, got to finish connecting power and also sort the CAN out between the ECU and TCU. And then tidy it all up properly.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0857_zpsymgjamo2.jpg

Still got to sort the transmission cross member, and shift cable as well. Hope it all works after this.... :lol:

Other than that;
Transmission filler/dipstick needs mounting properly
Alternator cables need extending
Electric water pump wiring
Refit the exhaust
Plumb the trans cooler
Make a removable panel for the hole I cut in the floor to clear the cooler lines
Swap injectors
Fill with new fluids

Then it'll be ready for the road again.... :lol: Other than needing another MOT :lol:

When I do the LQ engine install I'll be refreshing a lot of the wiring again - I've changed so much since I put the car on the road it's getting a bit messy again.

cptpugwash
18-04-15, 09:00 PM
A package from DIY Autotune arrived earlier in the week, all the parts for the Megashift controller for the 4L80.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/10995618_245909068913197_3862759068127430104_n_zps mbnxaumi.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/11138580_246322362205201_1297639123631304431_n_zps l6tujjth.jpg

Pure wizardry going on right there

Do like your stuff Gothic :tup:

gothic_sera
19-04-15, 08:17 PM
Thanks :tup: :)

Got the crossmember made. Modified the original one by moving the mounts forward and relocating the transmission mount. Only took about 3 hours in the end...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0858_zpsiymibt2g.jpg

gothic_sera
17-10-15, 06:32 PM
Been out of the car and bike stuff for a while, had a lot going on in my life and had to put a few things on hold. But I'm back at it and trying to get things moving again.

Modified the oil pan. Got some 4mm sheet and made an extension for the bottom section, this will regain the capacity lost by cutting down the depth. It gives the pan more or less the same dimensions as the Cadillac CTS-V pan.

I bolted the pan to the block before fully welding it to minimise distortion.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0864_zpsq5ulxgwh.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0866_zpsg5uc2hab.jpg

We're a bit stuck for head options in the UK, and splashing out on some very expensive CNC heads would just about bankrupt me I think! So as I had these stock heads here I thought I would make use of them. Not my first porting job by a long stretch, but it is the first set of LS heads I've done.

5 hours in and I got one head roughed out with the carbide cutter. Just need to finish it off with cartridge rolls and give the exhaust ports a polish.

I've since had them skimmed so I just need to polish the chambers and unshroud the valves as well.

I had a scrap head here as well, so decided to drill the ports in a few places to find out how thick the walls were as I wanted to remove quite a bit of material, especially around the exhaust ports.

Started off by marking out the inlet ports on the face so they were all the same size.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0978_zpsgejz9x6n.jpg

And here's a stock inlet port/valve throat, there's a big step where the cast runner meets the seat insert which you might not be able to see in the photos.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0984_zpsj2bjh3we.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0980_zpslcnzgjim.jpg

First thing I did was dive in with a big carbide cutter and blend the seat into the throat

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0979_zps51npuokb.jpg

Then in with a smaller ball cutter and worked on the area around the guide. I did think about cutting the guide back, but I can't see any huge benefits from doing so?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0986_zpsbgb7lpxc.jpg

I didn't really touch the rest of the port apart from cleaning up a few casting marks. I just need to run a cartridge roll all the way through the port to finish it off

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0987_zpsstbxmawx.jpg

Inlet ports all squared up and equally sized

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0988_zps4slidyln.jpg


Next the exhaust ports - these were even worse where the seat meets the cast runner - but the port was a long way behind the seat insert, so all I could really do was clean it up a bit and blend it as best possible.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0991_zpsjjtnfmog.jpg

The main work on the exhaust side was at the port exit. They seem very small at the manifold, so I marked them out and then cut quite a lot of material out of the ports including on the top and bottom of the runners so as to make the port the same size all the way through.

Here's a side by side comparison
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0989_zpsigdlsi9e.jpg

And all done

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0992_zpshlivuur5.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG0993_zpsag8ddqdf.jpg


Not sure if what I've done will actually result in any gains... but it passes the time! :D

gothic_sera
17-10-15, 06:33 PM
Fitted the trunion upgrade to the rockers, takes ages but worth it.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1081_zpsbmsdlkgz.jpg

I took drastic measures and turned my long truck crank into a short one... but left the center boss long so I can use a normal (old style) 4L80 converter with a dished flex plate to save me having to then fit an extension.

As I've already got a dished SFI flex plate, and I'll need to drill that for the 11.5" converter bolts as well. Why did Chevy decide to change all of this after the best part of 60 years?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1139_zpsgxmf9omr.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1141_zps3s7p9pem.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1142_zpsaqpqmwjc.jpg


Quite pleased with this purchase. A nice fabricated inlet manifold complete with fuel rails and all the fittings. I'll be able to fit my 72lb injectors to this one as well. It's 3" taller than the stock LS1/6 plastic inlet, but should still fit under my hood with the large scoop on it.

It takes a 105mm throttle body too.

The only thing I need to consider is where to put the nitrous ports. Either spraying directly down behind the injectors in the runners, or I am considering whether it would work if I put them in the sides of the plenum (arrowed), squirting directly above the bellmouths inside. I can't decide at the moment. The plenum is made of 3mm sheet, so I could just drill and tap it for the nozzles. Otherwise it means making and welding some bosses to the runners at the right angle to fit them to.

I'd like to decide before I get to the point of fitting it, just so I don't have to take it off again at a later date...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/fe67ed4f-b7cd-4a77-92ee-1acf2d48e939_zpskvfqba2t.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1149_zpsqjdjsjyq.jpg



Got the cam bearings pulled into their bores and checked the alignment. All OK there.

Then I cleaned and installed the crank, checked the bearing clearances and final fitted it. Rotates nice and smoothly.

Picking up the rods and heads from the machine shop tomorrow afternoon so should get the short block built this weekend.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1157_zpstmct9rcg.jpg

Overall the engine build is going pretty slow. Had to do some disassembly to drill and tap the block to fit an LS2 cam chain damper as my block didn't have the necessary holes as it originally had the LS3 style tensioner which are notoriously unreliable.

Then I fitted the oil pump only to find something was binding up. Stripped the brand new pump to find a chunk of swarf inside... Not great for a new part from a respectable manufacturer.

Then on to fitting DSS forged pistons to the LS2 rods with ARP bolts. Had the big ends honed 0.002" oversize to round them up for the new special OD bearings.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1176_zps4jw4pqgo.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1177_zpsbmlkrxsx.jpg

fabphil
18-10-15, 07:51 PM
Some nice work going on there :tup:

gothic_sera
19-10-15, 06:05 PM
Thanks :)

Found time to get the rest of the rotating assembly in today.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1196_zpszimagcb8.jpg

fad15
19-10-15, 07:15 PM
Good stuff, and quick as well.

gothic_sera
24-10-15, 05:05 PM
Thanks. There's me thinking I'm being pretty slow with this one!

A little more work on the engine today as it's been raining it was nice to be working the workshop with the heater going!

Assembled the oil baffle, pick up pipe and front cover onto the engine. I did think about polishing the timing cover, but decided it was too much effort for something you can't really see once the whole engine is built.

After that I cleaned the oil pan out and fitted that. Nice to have the bottom end all done.

Made a start on the assembly of the heads. Checked all the valves were straight as I knew there was a high likely hood of at least one being bent. Turned out there were 4 bent ones. Just as well I had some spares. What was a bit unexpected was finding a broken intake valve guide. So I need to look at making myself a new one and fitting that tomorrow.

Yesterday I marked out the combustion chambers to see how much material I could remove to un-shroud the valves. Turned out more on the exhaust side, but generally not very much. So it didn't take long to get that seen to on both the heads.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1200_zpslrcrqgu0.jpg

After all that I did have enough parts to get one head fully cleaned and assembled.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1201_zpscjzexhfa.jpg

After that I soaked the lifters in a tub of oil and then fitted them to their retainers and into the block.

Then made myself a valley cover. I didn't have one with my engine parts and it only took 30 mins to make one.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1204_zpsqwhvgcjz.jpg

After that I got the assembled head fitted. It gets it off the floor, and makes it easier to keep everything clean!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1206_zpsiuggmo6r.jpg

Just the other head, a few sensors and the rear seal housing to install and this is more or less buttoned up...

gothic_sera
25-10-15, 06:12 PM
Another half day on this...

I found a piece of cast iron to machine a valve guide from. I did consider making a bronze one, as I have some, but it seemed a bit pointless unless I made 16 new ones, which I wasn't about to do! It took about an hour to machine one up, pleased with the result... spot the home-made one.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1209_zps1srocxqe.jpg

This was the extent of the chamber work, unshrouding the valves a bit. Don't want to remove too much material, this was about 3mm blended back toward the valve seat.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1207_zpsuv0jclam.jpg

Next thing was to fit the crank damper and then find true TDC, shouldn't need it, but it's always handy for troubleshooting later on

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1210_zpsjjajgrdw.jpg

Assembled the other head

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1212_zpsfhi1khmh.jpg

Popped it on the block, torqued it down and then installed the steam pipes

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1213_zpsxyqs0tek.jpg

Finally the inlet manifold and throttle body. Thankfully it still fits fine after skimming 0.050" off each head - bolts were a little tight in the holes, but it seems to work. 102mm throttle body fitted to the front, should flow ok...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1214_zpsebsvo6dm.jpg

Whether it works or not, I don't know. But it looks kinda cool...

I just need some pushrods for it and it's done.

stilltrying
25-10-15, 10:12 PM
Looking tasty:tup:

gothic_sera
08-11-15, 05:40 PM
The mission for this weekend was getting the accessory drive sorted.

The LS Camaro uses a low mount alternator to help with hood clearance. But the LQ block isn't drilled and tapped for the mounts, so I did that first this morning. I also discovered that the Blazer alternator uses identical mounts to the LS one. And I have a spare one, and it only needs 2 wires to make it work.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1231_zpsajndrt14.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1232_zps4flvbvsh.jpg

Worked in an idler to help with belt wrap too. It was a new one I had laying around, should be fine.

Using a steering pump from a late model V6 Camaro modified the original feed hose so that it will work properly. The remote tank will mount on the inner fender, after a quick measure up.

I also got the injectors and fuel rails installed. I'm using the 72lb/hr injectors that I had fitted on my injected SBC. They should be more than adequate and fit perfectly.

The last job today was to apply some permanent loctite to the screws on the throttle blade. It was either this or peening the ends to retain them. It's one of the things that I wanted to do to the Chinese throttle body. Other than that and a few sharp edges I can't really fault it for <$100...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1238_zpsecq9a7vb.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1240_zpsi022t4oz.jpg

Total cost so far, nothing... apart from about 4 hours.

I do need to get an F body water pump and tensioner.

cptpugwash
08-11-15, 10:08 PM
You make it look easy Gothic, throttle body looks menacing too :tup:

Just curious how you replaced that valve guide, can only guess you have replaced it with a press of some sort

gothic_sera
09-11-15, 09:08 PM
Thanks.

Yes they just press in/out. Not that difficult really.

bigyellataxi
23-11-15, 07:52 PM
The 3mm sheet plenum won't give you much thread to play with for the nitrous jets, I'd go for bosses.

Just my tuppenth.

If you need made to measure hoses, I know someone who makes them... :tup:

gothic_sera
23-11-15, 07:58 PM
Nice one - I'll be welding bosses into the runners at a later date. I'll get it running NA before I stick some giggle gas in... :tup: the intake is really easy to remove anyway so it's an easy mod to do

Torment
24-11-15, 06:50 AM
Interesting build..i dont have any knowledge about these later engines..the manifolds a piece of work :tup:

Plumpcars
24-11-15, 09:17 AM
Seriously impressive work. I probably should have gone LS but stuck with an early style small block. Fear of the unknown I guess.

Dazee
24-11-15, 02:03 PM
Nice work, that motor looks to be a serious bit of kit. I don't know much about LS series stuff but it's interesting to see and make comparisons to the earlier small block Chevy and Fords.

gothic_sera
24-11-15, 06:53 PM
Thanks guys :tup:

I haven't messed with the LS motors before either. They aren't any more difficult to work on than the original small block to be honest. Other than the parts being more expensive and everything being much stronger there's barely any difference...

I need to make myself a water pump pulley this weekend really and finish that auxiliary drive off. After that I need to get my torque converter sorted and transmission checked over before I can drop the engine in the car.

SJ

gothic_sera
08-02-16, 05:59 PM
I pulled the 4L80 out of the car a couple of weeks ago, to find that the fluid had a bit of water in it. So I thought it was best to pull it apart again, for the sake of a gasket set, to check it over and make sure it wasn't too sludged up. Frictions can also get damaged in contact with water, so I thought a visual inspection was worthwhile.

It's now completely stripped and I've checked it all over and everything looks ok.

I did have a bit of a mishap with the centre support however, so I've got another one on the way, and I can't put it back together until that arrives. :oops:

Anyway, couple of gratuitous pics...

Overrun clutch assembly with Alto frictions, billet input shaft (OK to 1500hp apparently) and new sprag

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1455_zpsukld7chs.jpg

Forward clutch assembly, Alto power pack (7 frictions instead of 5), billet clutch hub

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1454_zpsslagrs7t.jpg

While I am inside this time I'll be drilling a small hole in the direct drum to act as a vent to prevent centrifugal apply and also doing a couple of pump modifications that I didn't do the first time around.

Started rewiring the car this weekend - between rain showers.

Pulled out the old harness and removed the necessary connectors.

I bought an EZ Wiring harness last year, but kept putting off actually making a start on putting it in :lol: I made a stainless adapter plate for the firewall to block up the hole left by the stock connector and passed the engine section of the harness through a grommet in the centre of it. I'll seal it with polyurethane sealant once I am happy that I haven't missed any cables that I might need.

The reason for changing the harness was that I was never really happy using a 37 year old harness in the car, and I'd had to add so much to it in order to run the EFI and transmission controllers that it was completely hacked up anyway.

So a new loom with a lot of extra circuits that I'll never use (like power locks, windows, cruise and A/C) was perfect as that gives me lots of extra fuse power supplies direct from the harness that I can repurpose for the other things I need.

The only downside of modern running gear? Just the wiring for that makes up quite a list!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/ca2e0e0a-0fd7-4b54-8047-080ddc9eff1b_zpsscmiomh9.jpg

Had to strip the ignition switch out of the car as I had a dodgy connection inside in the 'run' position. Thankfully being old technology it was full of copper bars and little springs which were all gummed up with old dielectric grease. Cleaned it all out and now it works perfectly again :lol:

I also had to make a few changes to the power feeds to the fuse box, as the only power out which was live in the cranking position was the coil feed - no use at all with injection.... :lol: Fixed that, now everything except the lights stays live. Not a problem with new battery technology...

The dash section is more or less finished now, just a few bits to tidy up, and the immobiliser circuits to reconnect and it will be done, then I can move on to the engine bay where I also need to move the fuel feed line to a more sensible location.

My torque converter also arrived back, very quick turnaround, 7 days door to door, mind you the courier struggled up the yard with it at 830am this morning :lol:

Cleaned, new seals throughout, new lock up clutch lining and stall speed increased to approx 3000rpm. Not bad service at all.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1462_zpszhg9ugsr.jpg

fad15
08-02-16, 08:52 PM
Lot of stuff done, since last time you posted.:tup:

gothic_sera
08-02-16, 09:11 PM
Thanks, it's slow going at the mo as I have to work on the car outside. Got a lot to do before I can drop the engine and transmission back in.

Plumpcars
09-02-16, 08:29 AM
I really admire your work ethic and confidence in approaching so many things.

gothic_sera
09-02-16, 05:56 PM
Thanks. I've never been one to shy away from having a go at anything to be honest. And I've been messing around with cars and bikes for most of my life :tup: I do love a project, and if I can have a go at something new then all the better. It's why I love my Camaro so much :D

stilltrying
09-02-16, 06:42 PM
Can't wait for the first fire up video:tup:

gothic_sera
09-02-16, 09:53 PM
Me too... it's been a long time coming this one. I really missed having the car on the road last summer. And I'm really interested in seeing what sort of times it can run at 'pod.

gothic_sera
16-02-16, 08:59 PM
The transmission is back together, I just need to give the case a clean, and a coat of paint and then it will be ready to be fitted as soon as I have finished with the motor build

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1465_zpsseldgprn.jpg

gothic_sera
20-02-16, 04:31 PM
Been spending a bit of time getting the engine bay ready for the new engine to be dropped it. Got it cleaned up before I got rained off for the day. I also need to reroute the fuel feed line across the bulkhead, shorten the return line and finish the cabling. I'm planning to refit the hydroboost as well, as I had a few issues with the installation the first time around. Much easier to do with the engine out of the way.

It was a bit grubby in there, 3k miles with a slightly leaky small block, and dust from paint prep.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1472_zps0tfbjqre.jpg

Looks better for an hour with some detergent and a brush

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1473_zpscjjztrtd.jpg

gothic_sera
21-02-16, 01:38 PM
Spent this morning working the wiring on the car. Nearly done the dash section now.

Then cleaned up the transmission and gave it a coat of satin black. Looks much better now!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1475_zpsqqlwej9c.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/flak_monkey/media/Camaro/IMAG1475_zpsqqlwej9c.jpg.html)

stilltrying
21-02-16, 08:54 PM
Coming along nicely:tup:

gothic_sera
05-03-16, 06:23 PM
Been working away on a few bits and pieces - the weather is holding me up more than anything else now.

Found out why my engine mounts didn't line up properly when I dropped my original engine in. The 'heavy duty' type engine mounts aren't correct for a Camaro - and they offset the mounting bolts by about 1/4". So I got hold of some of the correct mounts, which I will fit poly inserts into before I fit them to the car. Trouble is getting to the bolts is a complete nightmare.

One of the the last jobs I needed to do before I could actually put the engine and transmission in the car was to sort out the flex plate. You might remember I machined the back of my truck crank so that I could use the standard LS type flex plate as they are far more common and cheaper to buy than the flat ones. Only problem is they come drilled for the standard LS converter, which has something like an 11" PCD for the converter bolts.

I have a 4L80E and a 'normal' converter for it which has the large 11.5" PCD for the bolts...No problem, I just marked out the flex plate and drilled another set of bolt holes between the others.

I've seen other people just elongate the holes in the plate, but I really didn't like that idea. You can see from the photo below just how far you'd have to go, as my converter has 6 bolt holes.

I might yet elongate the other holes and put bolts and large washers in just for the sake of it, although 3 bolts will be more than adequate.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1514_zpsbx6wesqy.jpg


With that job done, there's nothing really stopping it all going into the car - with the exception of the fact that it's been raining heavily for what seems like an eternity...

Other than that I have started making a pulley for my water pump - I just need to make the boss which will be a light press fit onto the shaft of the pump. I'll then heat it up and drop it onto the shaft so it doesn't go anywhere.

gothic_sera
12-03-16, 06:34 PM
Today has been ups and downs...

First job was remove the core support from the car - easy enough

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1522_zpsg3ctniun.jpg

Next up was getting the engine off the stand and the flex plate fitted and the transmission bolted up. No real issues there except that I needed to tap the holes a little deeper in the crank and chop around 2mm off the bolts. I machined a truck crank and they aren't quite drilled as deep as the standard short car crank it seems. Thankfully I have a set of M11x1.5 taps handy...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1523_zpsk3itipyb.jpg

After that the transmission and converter were fitted with no real dramas.

That's when the fun started, as much my own fault as anything. The mounts wouldn't line up, but then I figured I'd assembled them wrong, oops. Never mind.

The good news is that I don't need to move the engine forward at all, it will fit in the stock position. The bad news is that I think I might have a slight issue with clearance on the steering linkage. I could gain a few mm if I make myself a new set of engine mounts.... seems like a lot of effort, but it might be the only way.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1525_zpshzoidofu.jpg

Oh and my transmission cross member fits right up...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1527_zpssnuevhkw.jpg

So yes, it's sort of in there, I still need to finish off mounting it properly. Ran out of daylight today

gothic_sera
13-03-16, 05:22 PM
Today started with pulling the whole engine and transmission back out again - at least that's easy with the core support removed.

I reconfigured all of the mounts and put it all back together again. I also made a small adjustment to the idler arm and now have around 3/8" steering clearance! Yay!

Helped by a number of things, including moving the engine as far back as it will go on the mounts. I followed other peoples advice initially and set it in the 1" forward position. But I think it works nicely in the stock position.... this is using Hooker adapter plates.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1530_zpsjbvxsjac.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1531_zpso470z79c.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1532_zpsidtojjbv.jpg

After that I got the transmission crossmember installed, this confirmed the transmission is in the same place as it was with the small block. If anything it's slightly further back...

The the driveshaft and a few other bits were hooked up.

The 1st gen headers just do not fit, so I need to get some second gen correct ones. More expense!

The oil pan that I modified hangs just below the crossmember - I made this to the same height as the CTS-V pan knowing that this would happen. I don't run the car too low anyway, so it should be fine.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1534_zpsngyslpll.jpg

Next up I fitted the water pump and power steering pump, no real dramas there. The alternator is very close to the sub-frame but there is enough clearance for everything to work. I've left it off until I have primed the oil system as I need access to the port on the side of the block

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1535_zpssq3vernx.jpg

Last job was to refit the hood and chop a bit out to clear the intake, I'll need to cut some more once I have the hoses and filter fitted, but it should all sit under the scoop nicely

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1536_zpseeg9antg.jpg

gothic_sera
13-03-16, 05:47 PM
Today started with pulling the whole engine and transmission back out again - at least that's easy with the core support removed.

I reconfigured all of the mounts and put it all back together again. I also made a small adjustment to the idler arm and now have around 3/8" steering clearance! Yay!

Helped by a number of things, including moving the engine as far back as it will go on the mounts. I followed other peoples advice initially and set it in the 1" forward position. But I think it works nicely in the stock position.... this is using Hooker adapter plates.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1530_zpsjbvxsjac.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1531_zpso470z79c.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1532_zpsidtojjbv.jpg

After that I got the transmission crossmember installed, this confirmed the transmission is in the same place as it was with the small block. If anything it's slightly further back...

The the driveshaft and a few other bits were hooked up.

The 1st gen headers just do not fit, so I need to get some second gen correct ones. More expense!

The oil pan that I modified hangs just below the crossmember - I made this to the same height as the CTS-V pan knowing that this would happen. I don't run the car too low anyway, so it should be fine.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1534_zpsngyslpll.jpg

Next up I fitted the water pump and power steering pump, no real dramas there. The alternator is very close to the sub-frame but there is enough clearance for everything to work. I've left it off until I have primed the oil system as I need access to the port on the side of the block

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1535_zpssq3vernx.jpg

Last job was to refit the hood and chop a bit out to clear the intake, I'll need to cut some more once I have the hoses and filter fitted, but it should all sit under the scoop nicely

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1536_zpseeg9antg.jpg

stilltrying
13-03-16, 06:59 PM
Looking really good SJ;)

fad15
13-03-16, 07:04 PM
A video of the fire up IS expected, you know.

Plumpcars
13-03-16, 07:08 PM
Great progress and looking good.

gothic_sera
14-03-16, 09:05 AM
Thanks guys.

Afters its too cold and dark outside I've been working on building the ECU up for this. I'm using Megasquirt 3x so I can run sequential fuel and spark. It's got more features than I need but it's future proof. It will also communicate directly with my Megashift transmission controller via CAN so it keeps things simple.

Take one bare board

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1528_zpsdxiwygfe.jpg

Do a bit of electrical witchcraft

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1537_zpsvzymq61r.jpg

At the stage of testing and cleaning the board now, before finally fitting the processor and cramming it all into its case.

stilltrying
14-03-16, 03:31 PM
Again nice work. I'm going to use either megajolt or nodiz to run the mopar lump in the T. Gets rid of the distributor but as running duel holleys I'm only after the simplest system. I already have the edis8 so the basic megajolt should do but the nodiz system does away with the need for edis and i can get more info on my phone with the nodiz one. Still weighing it all up.

gothic_sera
19-03-16, 06:08 PM
I've spent all day wiring again, and the engine is completely wired up. Hopefully I'll be able to check the function of everything tomorrow if I can get some power on the loom. Still have quite a lot more to do yet, but shouldn't be too long before it's ready to be fired up...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1551_zpsryevmysb.jpg

Torment
20-03-16, 08:25 AM
Thanks guys.

Afters its too cold and dark outside I've been working on building the ECU up for this. I'm using Megasquirt 3x so I can run sequential fuel and spark. It's got more features than I need but it's future proof. It will also communicate directly with my Megashift transmission controller via CAN so it keeps things simple.

I understood cold,fuel and spark.....the rest is well above my pay grade...

im very impressed with the job you are doing.its going to be a nice car.
once done you could celebrate with a barbecue....we know someone who could bring some fire..

gothic_sera
26-03-16, 06:27 PM
Sorry, don't know how I missed your reply! Thank you :) I like a BBQ - have loads during the summer and we have a huge garden with enough parking for about 15 cars.... private car show...?

The car is at that stage where you can't really see where you've been working. Lots of silly little jobs that all take ages to sort.

Yesterday I finished cutting a hole in the floor to clear the oil cooler lines on the 4L80E - downside of such a large transmission. I hammered out a domed aluminium cover plate for it and put a squirt of non-setting sealer round it before screwing it to the floor. Now if I ever need to get at the fittings I can do it without dropping the transmission out...!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1559_zpsby8oaddu.jpg

Next I fitted new body seals for the doors to replace the leaky ones. I did replace them with new when I rebuilt the car the first time, but they didn't last very long. I bought a different make this time and they seem much better. With the rain that's forecast for the rest of the weekend I expect I will find out if the new seals have fixed the problem, or not.

After that I finished off all of the dash wiring with a couple of minor exceptions and then refitted the carpet, dash, instruments etc.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1560_zpsph6tkkny.jpg

Tested the electricals that I can and everything seems to work so far.

Today I got quite a lot done, but nothing much to see - which is always annoying...

Wired the rear lights, fuel pump, dome light and starter solenoid (which I've moved to the back of the car with the battery - I never liked having a 50mm^2 hot cable running front to back with no fuse. And I also dropped in a big 16mm fused main battery feed for the rest of the car, that runs up to a stud on the firewall where everything takes it's power from. Overkill, but if I ever upgrade things like fuel pumps, or ever fit a stereo or something then I won't have to touch that again...

Spent a good hour fitting the shifter cable - and swearing - trying to get it adjusted right was a pain. Not sure if the throws on the 4L80E shifter are slightly different to other transmissions or not....

Made the throttle cable up and fitted that - do need to modify the stop on the throttle body so that I can get full throttle - not unusual on those Chinese throttle bodies...

Spent 2 hours messing around with the ECU and TCU trying to get them talking to eachother via CAN - got there eventually! Loading new firmware on the TCU seemed to fix the problem - so it was either corrupt or there was a bug in the old code.

Plumpcars
26-03-16, 09:11 PM
At least I can claim a few parallels with mine. I run my solenoid in the boot for the same reasons as you. Looks a bit like a power station in there but works perfectly and easy to service if needed.
I've always found that Soffseal make pretty good seals compared to many.
Shifter cable, join the club. I run a full manual TH400. I wanted to run a Precision Performance Products shifter but couldn't get one easily so put a B&M Pro Bandit in there. Struggled to get that adjustment bang on in every position. I'm a bit anal about shifter cables and had to finesse/machine the shifter to make it useable. I then managed to get(Thanks to Robinson Race Cars) a PPP shifter as I originally wanted and surprisingly hit the same problem. It's taken a few very minute adjustments and then test drives to get it exactly as I want it. Patience is your friend.

cptpugwash
27-03-16, 12:03 AM
Spent 2 hours messing around with the ECU and TCU trying to get them talking to eachother via CAN - got there eventually! Loading new firmware on the TCU seemed to fix the problem - so it was either corrupt or there was a bug in the old code.

Can only guess this is to adjust the box shift points?

Do understand the words BBQ, n car show thought :D what's the date :D

stilltrying
27-03-16, 10:20 AM
Again, can just say brilliant work. Your knowledge of all the different elements is astounding, often someone is good at mechanical items and another good with electronics but you are a mistress of all:tup:
BBQ sounds good, just need to find a car that would be appropriate, not one of mine is road ready:tdown:

When's the big fire up day, can't be far off now.

gothic_sera
27-03-16, 05:39 PM
Again, can just say brilliant work. Your knowledge of all the different elements is astounding, often someone is good at mechanical items and another good with electronics but you are a mistress of all:tup:
BBQ sounds good, just need to find a car that would be appropriate, not one of mine is road ready:tdown:

When's the big fire up day, can't be far off now.

Thank you, you're too kind... :) I reckon I'm still a month of getting it running. I have to wait for some more headers to ship from the USA, before I can order them I need to be paid (next week). I still have quite a few other little jobs to do as well which are quite time consuming.


Can only guess this is to adjust the box shift points?

Do understand the words BBQ, n car show thought :D what's the date :D

The transmission and engine controllers need to talk to each other so they each know what the other is doing to properly control shift points and stuff.



Today I spent the morning sorting the fuel system out - replacing all of the rubber fuel hose as it had succumbed to our wonderful fuel with ethanol in... I've replaced it with the proper R9 rated hose this time, so hopefully it will be OK now. After that I dropped the fuel tank out because the fuel sender has always been temperamental. Found that it was actually a stuck float. Freed it off and reassembled the tank before rubbing it down and giving it a fresh coat of paint as it had some over spray on it from when the car was sprayed.

Then I got rained off, so had to call it a day.

Oh and I found out that my door seals still leak, despite replacing them with new. They seem to leak where the door and body seals meet at the back of the door. I give up on that particular problem....

gothic_sera
02-04-16, 06:11 PM
Had a good few days doing odd little jobs. Got the fuel tank back in. Made the mount for the new fuel pump and prefilter.

Fitted the pushrods and the motor and primed the oil system through the port on the side of the block. Mounted the alternator and wired it up. Measured up for the belt too.

Mounted the solenoid in the trunk and hooked up the battery. Cranked it over to check I was getting a signal to the ECU and it all look ok so far. Had some issues the with the transmission controller, but seem to have fixed that.

Mounted the new wideband controller in the dash and tested it. All ok.

Refitted most of the interior, just need to fix the door handles and re-dye the backs of the seats. Put some polythene sheeting behind the door panels this time. Should keep them dry.

Also mostly finished plumbing the fuel system. Got a few more bits to do yet, but its nearly there....

Managed to nab a pair of gear shift paddles for cheap too. Will be really easy to mount and they are super neat.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1594_zpsgyum1ruw.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/flak_monkey/media/Camaro/IMAG1594_zpsgyum1ruw.jpg.html)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1593_zpskoishxsg.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/flak_monkey/media/Camaro/IMAG1593_zpskoishxsg.jpg.html)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1589_zps0omvdriq.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/flak_monkey/media/Camaro/IMAG1589_zps0omvdriq.jpg.html)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1596_zpsl47w6aye.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/flak_monkey/media/Camaro/IMAG1596_zpsl47w6aye.jpg.html)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1597_zpsyylk5uts.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/flak_monkey/media/Camaro/IMAG1597_zpsyylk5uts.jpg.html)

stilltrying
03-04-16, 09:32 AM
Looking good. Is it the camera angle or are those silencers really low?

gothic_sera
03-04-16, 04:20 PM
Those silencers are just hanging there, not connected to anything the other end. Normally they are tucked up tight to the floor

gothic_sera
03-04-16, 04:57 PM
Another busy day - got the core support cleaned up and painted this morning - 2k epoxy primer and then satin black top coat. Looks much better now. Let it bake in the sun for a few hours and then refitted it.

Dropped the radiator back in and worked out the hoses for it, just need to get some clips, and also add a little bleed point in the top hose. Loads of clearance to the underside of the hood and it all worked out quite neat.

Not got a huge amount of big jobs left to do, mainly small jobs that take ages. Waiting on some headers from the USA too.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1599_zpsryxpbhgk.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1600_zpsmjwu20n4.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1603_zpssmivtmvf.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1604_zpsm7qx0blx.jpg

gothic_sera
05-04-16, 07:39 PM
Quick job for the evening - mounting the new fuel pump. I thought an upgrade would be beneficial with the new engine. The new one being an AEM 340lph/100gph (@43psi) pump. Enough to support my HP goals with some to spare...

Cut a stainless plate which bolted to the mounts I'd previously welded to my tank when I fitted my original pump, fitted a decent sized pre-filter, just need to finish the fuel lines off and I can stick some fuel in it and see if it leaks :lol:

Ignore the low hanging mufflers, nothing connected the other side just yet...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1614_zpsn4icatzw.jpg

gothic_sera
07-04-16, 06:37 PM
Another quick evening job.

The top radiator hose is the highest point in my system, so needed a bleed point, and a take off for the hose from the steam ports on the heads so I welded some bosses to the aluminium hose joiner and tapped them for a hose fitting and a schrader valve that I had in a drawer of parts. Should work.

Hoping to have the cooling system hooked up by the end of the day tomorrow and get the transmission cooler re-mounted and connected too.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1615_zpsddavbfao.jpg

Torment
08-04-16, 07:33 AM
Daft bordering on sad question....are the rear tyres toyo proxes...?

Like the bleed valve idea..was going to call it a bleed nipple but i might cause some mirth..:giggle:

gothic_sera
08-04-16, 08:17 AM
No, they are crap Federals that were on the rims when I bought them. I've got 17x10 on the back, need to find some good tyres to fit them that aren't 300 each...

Nipple :lol:

gothic_sera
09-04-16, 05:31 PM
Got quite a lot of fabrication done today.

Was never happy with the g-braces I made the first time around, it was a rush job and they clashed with the hood hinges. So I cut them up and remade them - this time I didn't have the brake booster to worry about as I now have hydroboost. I'll get them powder coated this week I expect.

A also made myself a stainless steel tank for the power steering fluid, just need to polish it up.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1626_zps28u6fsfe.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1627_zpsluambvmb.jpg

cptpugwash
09-04-16, 11:04 PM
Iching to ask gothic and may sound a little dumb but what do those bars do and what's the idea behind them?

Plumpcars
10-04-16, 05:18 AM
Think 'triangles' Captain.

gothic_sera
10-04-16, 06:57 AM
Iching to ask gothic and may sound a little dumb but what do those bars do and what's the idea behind them?

Yes, triangulation. It's an attempt to stiffen the front end of the chassis a bit. It ties the upper control arm mounts back to the firewall to remove some of the flex in the sub frame.

I also have solid body bushings that I turned up from aluminium, and sub frame connectors which tie the back of the front sub frame to the rear chassis rails.

It all makes quite a difference. Common modifications that are done by the pro touring guys in the USA.

Plumpcars
10-04-16, 07:43 AM
Herb Adams wrote some great stuff on setting up Camaro'Firebirds. Still stands today.

gothic_sera
10-04-16, 06:05 PM
He certainly has. His books and articles have inspired quite a lot of the mods I've done to mine.

Done a few little jobs today.

Re-dyed the seat backs - I ran out of dye when I did them the first time so the red was still showing through.

Fixed the retractor on the passenger seat belt - was full of fluff and a bit tight. Cleaned it all up and rewound the spring, works really well now...

Fixed the door pulls/handles, cleaned the sticky old dye off them from the previous owner with cellulose thinners. Fixed the handles and then re-dyed them.

Finished the wiring of the front lights, also sorted out the washer pump and reservoir. Forgot to take a pic, it's all hidden up. Determined to make it clean and neat under the hood this time around.

Last job was giving it a quick clean. It had got a bit green having sat in the yard for 18 months, surprisingly still shiny underneath. Desperately needs a polish though.

I'm filling the time until my headers arrive now. Still have quite a lot of little jobs to do though, many that I should have done the first time around but never got around to.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1628_zpsc9a5w6f5.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1629_zpsbkix40sl.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1630_zpspnigjkrw.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1631_zpsbfik9d3p.jpg

cptpugwash
10-04-16, 08:41 PM
Yes, triangulation. It's an attempt to stiffen the front end of the chassis a bit. It ties the upper control arm mounts back to the firewall to remove some of the flex in the sub frame.

I also have solid body bushings that I turned up from aluminium, and sub frame connectors which tie the back of the front sub frame to the rear chassis rails.

It all makes quite a difference. Common modifications that are done by the pro touring guys in the USA.

Ahhh thanks :tup:

gothic_sera
11-04-16, 05:40 PM
You have to love a friendly powder coater. Dropped the g-braces off at lunch time and got them back at 3pm

Refitted them this evening before the rain set in again

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1632_zpsmq2fhtjs.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1633_zpstmlqqona.jpg

stilltrying
11-04-16, 07:14 PM
You have to love a friendly powder coater. Dropped the g-braces off at lunch time and got them back at 3pm

Refitted them this evening before the rain set in again

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1632_zpsmq2fhtjs.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1633_zpstmlqqona.jpg

Well I'm going to be picky here because I know you are getting new headers Sooooo are you going to paint/powder coat the top wishbone inner arms and the washers to match? Everything is so bloody neat and tidy, I'm just jealous, keep at it and do a video of the fire up, can't wait.:tup:

gothic_sera
11-04-16, 07:20 PM
I've got lots to tidy up under there yet :)

I plan on fitting tubular upper control arms this year, so I didn't bother painting them while it was apart. Might be a couple of months - need to recover the bank balance a bit.

I need to sort the power steering hoses out too, they are too long as they were to suit the original pump on the engine. And I need to repaint the brake master cylinder. When I've got the reservoir fitted I'll tidy them all up properly.

Still a lot to do. :)

stilltrying
11-04-16, 07:45 PM
Was only joking, however on a more serious point, is there enough room to get the existing exhaust manifolds off and the new headers on? Looks really tight in there.

gothic_sera
11-04-16, 07:47 PM
There's no manifolds on there yet - but yes it's extremely tight!

fabphil
11-04-16, 09:32 PM
Good to see things coming together.
Makes me feel tired just reading the thread :)
Not done anything to mine for months now.

stilltrying
12-04-16, 11:47 AM
There's no manifolds on there yet - but yes it's extremely tight!

The trouble with being old the eyesight is crap, now looking I can see it's the ground below that I thought was a rusty manifold.:tdown: As seen in another thread a bit of tube bashing won't hurt your bhp or torque figures. Just looks a bit naff so hopefully you will get them on with out doing so.

stilltrying
12-04-16, 11:49 AM
Good to see things coming together.
Makes me feel tired just reading the thread :)
Not done anything to mine for months now.

She does work quick but in your defence you have built a rather nice mancave to put the rod in:tup:

gothic_sera
16-04-16, 08:36 PM
I finally got it running today after fitting the exhaust and finishing the plumbing.

It's not running great as I have a few issues to sort.

The idle valve is working backward so I need to sort the wiring for that and I need to double check my ignition timing.

It's stalling when the fan kicks in, and also when you drop it in gear, so I have a lot of tuning to do!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ea9dmOgB9A

Plumpcars
17-04-16, 06:49 AM
But it's running which is a huge step forward. Nice one.:tup:

stilltrying
18-04-16, 07:20 PM
Excellent, the way you work the running issues will probably already be sorted by the time I write this bit lol.

gothic_sera
18-04-16, 07:54 PM
Thanks - the engine is running just fine now.

But I have some sort of issue with the transmission - not sure whether it's my mechanical build, something electrical internally or my controller. Many unknowns....

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1637_zpszeo4aj8q.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1639_zpshv5yu7ci.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1643_zpsuwqtt1ng.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1644_zpsudnolv6l.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1647_zps1x1chcyp.jpg

gothic_sera
23-04-16, 06:50 PM
Well those shiny stainless headers are now nice and blue after running the motor for a bit.

I've been working away on lots of little jobs to get the car ready for the road again. Hoping to get it tested in a couple of weeks, ready for the start of the next month.

I've had a few problems with the transmission controller and also spent a lot of time trying to get it idling properly. More or less sorted now with the exception of second gear starts, which I am still trying to figure out.

The biggest issue I had was the torque converter clutch was locked, this as a result of inadequate fluid flow in the release circuit. Quite common apparently and thankfully Sonnax make a pressure regulator valve to fix the issue that fits in the pump. I drained the fluid, dropped the pan and fitted it and it seems to have solved my problem.

I've refitted the front bumper and lights, tidied the power steering hoses and clipped all of the wiring up properly.

I had to do some internal modifications to the transmission controller to get it working properly - mainly my fault in the first place to be fair.

I'm still waiting for a few parts to arrive. I have a leak from the coolant crossover pipe so I need to change that, and I need to fit the last bits of intake pipe and do some tidying of wiring in the trunk. I also have a bit of a weep from the oil pan - blame my welding. :lol:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1649_zps3awhgatv.jpg

cptpugwash
23-04-16, 07:42 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ea9dmOgB9A

Sounds nice there :tup:
Can you alter the air/fuel ration and the timing from your laptop and can the software tell if the engines pinking

Hopefully will catch your car out and about during the year :)

gothic_sera
23-04-16, 07:50 PM
Yes, got full control of all engine tuning parameters and the transmission from the laptop...

Still got a few bits to sort out. All being well will be at quite a lot of shows over the summer. Assuming I don't break it!

gothic_sera
30-04-16, 06:17 PM
Passed it's tests today, so I'm now legal on the roads...

I have a lot of tuning to do - and my transmission shifts way too hard


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nk95zQ_jAzQ&


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMy-jo6ZAqM&

gothic_sera
02-05-16, 05:06 PM
Its got an MOT... it drives OK (after a number of teething issues with the transmission) and I have a load of bugs to iron out.

I can tell it's going to be quick once I've got it tuned properly....

In celebration, here's some photos.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03885_zps4rtz3xtg.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03891_zpsflhqjpps.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03894_zpsej1ert7t.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03896_zpsazfcznrb.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03897_zpsql8xmjuu.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03902_zps8du3fywo.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03904_zpsdmxmb2y0.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03906_zpswzl4oo52.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03908_zpspc3alf4a.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/DSC03918_zps7obykvn2.jpg

stilltrying
02-05-16, 05:48 PM
Looks really good, congratulations on a nice build and thanks for letting us see your work. Next up a few 1/4 mile runs:tup: Hope to see it in the flesh sometime soon.

Plumpcars
02-05-16, 06:18 PM
Nice one, bet that feels good!

fabphil
02-05-16, 08:02 PM
Great to see it finished and out and about.
Still not touched mine yet :)

satan
02-05-16, 08:48 PM
I saw this up close way back when you first acquired it, Its quite a transformation and gets better and better. you appear to have a broad set of skills bodywork,paint,electrics,engine building, and a good eye for form and function, [naturally after all this praise,, I will expect a ride in it one day];):tup:

fad15
03-05-16, 04:38 AM
A blend of old & new school. Interested to see how all the mapping technology works out and if you think it was worth all the time, effort and skill you put into it. Colour suits it to the core.

Torment
03-05-16, 06:56 AM
Cool car that...whats next..?

stilltrying
03-05-16, 06:46 PM
Cool car that...whats next..?

She has to finish the bike next or sell it to me and start another project:D

gothic_sera
03-05-16, 06:56 PM
Thanks guys :)

I still have loads to do on the Camaro - plenty of room for more upgrades - but I want to make sure it runs OK this summer before I start throwing lots more money at it. I want to run it at Santa Pod in a couple of months, see if I can get the WOT fuel and ignition dialled in a bit at a RWYB event. It's too risky to do it on the road...

And yes, I really need to finish the bike.

Torment
03-05-16, 07:05 PM
So the barbecue is out the window then...

gothic_sera
03-05-16, 07:15 PM
Planning something for later in the summer - thinking about when I might be able to fit something in

wintersmake68
06-05-16, 01:02 PM
Really Wonderful build talented.

gothic_sera
15-05-16, 04:05 PM
Still finishing off a few things here and there... I find these cars are never really finished.

The fuel gauge has never really read right, which is annoying, so I dropped the tank and adjusted the sender today. Pretty sure it's still not right. Shows about 1/4 tank with 30 litres left. I suppose it's better that way than over reading though...

The other area that I never really finished was the trunk. I finally bought a carpet for it and also made a panel to hide the battery away. All much neater now, but I still need to glue the carpet down. I cut some jute to fit under the carpet too, should keep the noise down on a longer journey. Not that road noise is my major issue!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1678_zpshsqzcekq.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1679_zpsynyjoarx.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1681_zpsnn9fifyr.jpg

gothic_sera
21-05-16, 06:20 PM
While it was correct to have original seats, they are a bit lacking in support, especially now I've got a few more horsepower. I've taken a few people out for a ride and they've spent most of the time looking for something to hold on to to stop them sliding around on the old seats.

I was looking for something retroish looking but more supportive. I spotted a set of leather Mk3 MR2 seats on eBay which were local to me and managed to win them for a sensible price. Bonus was they are from a LHD car so all of the adjustment is on the driver side seat as it should be.

There's a few little scuffs and marks on them, but I will re-dye them at somepoint, probably next winter.

They are incredibly supportive, have proper head restraints and offer more adjustment than the originals. So all round win really.

Took me most of the day to modify the runners and get them trial fitted. Took it for a drive and they are so much better.

Just need to re-paint the runners and they can be finally fitted.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1691_zpsp61bhg6z.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1692_zpsjykotoiw.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1693_zpswayresv7.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1696_zpszrsh6kir.jpg


I also blew the fuse for the fuel pump today - the AEM pump I has draws a lot of current and the fuse I had fitted was borderline. So I fitted another relay next to the battery in the trunk. Used the original fuel pump feed to switch it and wired the pump with 10ga cable.

Sounds much happier now too, expect it's actually getting full battery voltage now. Must check my fuel pressure again.

stilltrying
21-05-16, 08:24 PM
Those seats look really good, to an untrained eye they look factory fit so well spotted.

gothic_sera
21-05-16, 08:31 PM
Thanks :)

Must admit to being rather pleased with them, one of my better purchases!

gothic_sera
30-05-16, 06:18 PM
Noticed that I was getting fuel starvation at less than 1/3rd tank fuel - not ideal.... So I decided to modify my spare fuel tank with a larger rear facing sump. Just need to weld in the AN10 fitting and then leak test, paint and fit.

Hopefully another problem solved, now I just need to sort out those 1/4 times...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1713_zpslatu89w9.jpg

gothic_sera
02-06-16, 05:53 PM
So this happened...

Order a new converter from FTI as my stock truck one was killing me for the first 300'. Pathetic really - though I expected it in someways.

Hopefully it will turn up before my next outing, which will be Dragstalgia at Santa Pod in July...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/13301309_1037450969673942_3565188209385631317_o_zp skspomaqz.jpg

fad15
02-06-16, 06:27 PM
Shame. I could have had your old TC rebuilt, stalled to your requirement and fins brazed for really good money, in 3 days.

cptpugwash
02-06-16, 08:39 PM
Nice pic Gothic. What times did you run?
Looks like you have a camera in the windscreen there too, where's the video :)

gothic_sera
02-06-16, 08:47 PM
14.1 @105.2 was the best of a set of consistent, but rubbish runs.

I was struggling to actually get the car off the line with any sort of pace (2.505 60') - the LS motors make virtually no torque at low RPM compared to a SBC, and the stock converter was absolutely killing it for almost 300', once the rpms got up to 4k it started to get a move on and was actually breaking traction on the 1-2 shift on each run.

So there's a lot of potential there - I always knew it wouldn't be great with the converter I have, but was expecting it to be a bit better.

It should be running more like 115-18 and low 12's to high 11's but the proof's in the pudding as they say...

Plumpcars
02-06-16, 09:17 PM
I would think with that mph there would be a 13.7ish run in there if you could get it off the line.

gothic_sera
11-06-16, 05:49 PM
New converter is on the way from FTI.... :)

Been having a few issues so the car's been off the road for a week or so.

Fuel starvation at high RPM - so I've reworked the whole fuel system with a 1/2" feed done in Aeroquip AQP hose and 3/8" return which is hardlined.

I've also replaced the tank with a modified one which should help with the feed and return. I've also swapped the fuel pump for my spare.

The last thing I need to do is actually clip the new feed line in, but the clips I ordered haven't arrived so I haven't been able to just yet.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1730_zpsiqrzvt4o.jpg

I also pulled out the old 5/16" return line just to keep it tidy under there :lol:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1733_zpsiyabxyew.jpg

I also found out why my rear left tire kept going down...dammit.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1731_zps7wjceljv.jpg

But I have some new ones to go on - new ones are 275/40/17 rather than the 255/55/17 that I currently have. I like the 28" diameter as they fit the car well, but trying to find good quality ones in that sort of diameter is actually quite difficult in the UK... I have matching fronts to fit as well.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1734_zpsmrtz0s2a.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1735_zpskjadjnxr.jpg

stilltrying
11-06-16, 09:04 PM
The smaller rolling radius of the new tyres should get you off the line a bit quicker as well.

gothic_sera
11-06-16, 09:10 PM
Yes, 8.5% smaller - so equivalent of going from my current 4.11 gears to 4.45 - not that that's a real ratio - but as I was considering moving to 4.56 anyway it might well save me the hassle...

cptpugwash
18-06-16, 08:59 PM
Are you going for another try at the Nostalgia's at Shakey next weekend Gothic?

gothic_sera
18-06-16, 09:05 PM
My next event is Dragstalgia. Just swapped my torque converter out today.

.....bloody hell what a difference.

Even with the new tyres, 275/40r17, I have a serious traction problem...there's several 100yd black stripes on a (private) road near me where I go to play with my tuning.

BTW, my name's Sera :)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1752_zpsuhywafsn.jpg

cptpugwash
18-06-16, 09:25 PM
Glad the swop has made the difference you was looking for. You don't hang about that's for sure Sera :tup:
Will keep an eye out at Dragstalgia, be good to see you run.
From welding up a rusty shell to running 10's :tup:

gothic_sera
19-06-16, 05:22 AM
10's.... I'd be so lucky!

Be pleased to get into the 12's on street tyres to be honest!

stilltrying
29-07-16, 06:05 PM
Hey Sera,
I know you are probably having (hopefully) a load of fun with the camaro but when are you going to get on with my bike!

gothic_sera
29-07-16, 06:09 PM
I do have a lot on right now... I just need to do the paint on the Sophie bike and it will be done :)

I've got a lot to do on the Camaro too... it's still running nowhere near where it should be... still a lot of tuning left. Running at the Mopars on Sunday to see if I can get it running properly.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPIVvcwEh9o


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhZZOlgudWY

cptpugwash
29-07-16, 08:23 PM
Sounds good running that 13.08 :tup: sounds quiet too

stilltrying
30-07-16, 06:55 PM
You are already in the 12's just need to sort your reaction time out:D Looks like it went straight all the way as well. Nice one.:tup:

Plumpcars
30-07-16, 07:31 PM
Good luck tomorrow.

gothic_sera
30-07-16, 08:09 PM
Thanks guys :)

I'm also about 10mph short of where it should be. So either my tune is off or I got my cam timing wrong when I built the motor. Pretty sure it's not the latter!

gothic_sera
18-09-16, 08:38 PM
I haven't done anything on this for a while, been using it, mostly racing!

But the rear axle was getting noisier and noisier and making some pretty horrible grinding noises at times too, so I decided it was time for a major rebuild.

So I bought a new gear set, bearings, seals, and a few other bits to get it sorted.

Today I finally got around to fixing it, although I haven't tested it yet. Might be worse than it was before :lol:

The good news is that after I had it all stripped down everything looked to be OK. No damage to the axle shafts where the bearings run, and the carrier all looked to be in good condition too. I think the source of the noise was the fact that the pinion pre-load was very light and there was no carrier preload either, I just pulled it out by hand.

Gears looked a bit worn and the backlash was on the high side of acceptable.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG1979_zpskmgo0faz.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2027_zpsgubdtup5.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2028_zpsfiut0hiq.jpg

New gears were fitted with the original pinion shims which seem to have worked out just right for the depth setting. Then I had to have a bit of a play around to get the backlash dialled in. Settled on a consistent 0.007". The gears were marked 0.006" but I thought that was probably going to be close enough...

Cue messy yellow gear marking compound to see what's going on. I was happy enough with this pattern to go with it.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2029_zpsycchomse.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2030_zpsswlcufaw.jpg

Then I pulled it all apart again and fitted the pinion crush sleeve, new pinion seal and nut and torqued it down. Jeez it took some effort to crush that sleeve! Pinion nut was Loctited as well... Pinion pre-load is a smidge over 20inlb, with the new bearings it should be fine.

Last job tonight was pop new axle bearings and seals in, refit the axles with new c-clips.

Next thing to do is a final check on everything inside, refit the cover and stick some mineral based GL5 LSD oil in it for break in. I'll change it after 500 miles for some posh synthetic stuff assuming it doesn't still make horrid noises!

stilltrying
25-09-16, 07:40 PM
Looking good as always:tup:

gothic_sera
09-10-16, 06:43 PM
Swapped out my intake today. Removed the sheet metal one in favour of an Edelbrock Victor Jr with a 1200cfm throttle body on top of it. Doesn't quite make the same visual statement, but it's actually a much cleaner install without all the duct work.

I went for a quick drive and had to add quite a lot of fuel (about 8%) in the upper rpm range so I would guess it's making a bit more power than it was before.

The air intake temps are way down as well, only a few degrees above ambient when moving now, before they were a good 15-20deg up. The air filter sits right up the the hood scoop, so there's ample supply of fresh, cold air.

Next major job will be swapping the cam out for the replacement from Cammotion, but first I want to run it down the track and see what difference just swapping the intake will have made.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2092_zpsrgxwxx63.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2093_zpszxbm267q.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2097_zpsvsoyhwe7.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/flak_monkey/Camaro/IMAG2100_zpspzaebjvu.jpg

stilltrying
09-10-16, 07:47 PM
On the contrary I think it looks more racy with that on and a sexy as hell:D Hope it does what it says it should:tup: