View Full Version : Big, Expensive, Drinks Fuel, Oft Runs Dry; Really Loud

12-10-16, 03:35 PM
I thought, for gits and shiggles, I'd do a thread here for my current project, though it's 'home' is on HMVF. Not so much a rod, more of a big bloody sod.

Big, Expensive, Drinks Fuel, Oft Runs Dry; Really Loud.

Back when she first turned up, February 2016. I missed the actual drop-off, but the tyres hadn't even had time to cool from the trip up by the time I got down to the workshop.

I had to commit a minor act of abuse to get the driver's door to open; with no glass in the door, it's had plenty of time to fill with rainwater and rust, so the latch mechanism had seized up. I took the handle off the outside, thinking it was locked, and that made no difference; then 'shimmed' the thing open with a screwdriver from the inside.
Then bashed the locking tooth bit thing in with a hammer so I didn't have to pry the door open every time.


L.W. Vass strikes again! They apparently did a lot of these ex-services trucks...

In this truck's case, it was fitted with Harvey Frost 5-ton recovery gear, lifting an A-frame with a... hitch-board type thing for want of a better way of putting it; a quick squirt of WD-40 loosened up the crusted grease, and my brother and I cranked it all the way down then back up again. It seems to move pretty smoothly, when unloaded; it remains to be seen how nice it is to work it when it's got 5 tons on it, though.

Also, check it! Got two spare wheels with it; though they're fitted with 11.00-20s, rather than the 9.00-20s that are on the rest of the truck. 3-piece wheels sketch me out a little bit, though.


Used hard! 48899 on the clock; though the speedo cable had packed in, and it was only a month or so back that I figured out why. How classy are those gauges, though? :D

First step, at this point, was to free the engine up; so, spark-plugs out and start squirting an oil & petrol mix down the bores to break up any gunge and apply some lubrication. In my case, it was iso32 hydraulic oil that I used, but I guess it doesn't really matter.

Then, in the other thread, up cropped a possible disaster...

I have just looked at my photos and yes this is the same one. it was saved from the scrap man by Patrick Cullum of Colchester who was a big Bedford fan. it was going for scrap because it had dropped a valve . so don't try and start it

Ooh-er. :eek:

12-10-16, 03:57 PM
Well, the next weekend rolled around; and I'd been doing my research, as well as nipping out to her every lunchtime to apply a bit more of the foul-smelling oil & petrol mix.

(Confession time: I can't stand the smell of petrol, just sends the shudders right through me. Diesel, on the other hand, is a glorious smell... ditto that slight haze of diesel exhaust from the older stuff... and transmission oil... :eek: Er. I think I'm broken.)

Anyway! The next weekend, I took the rocker cover off to have a look for a sign of a dropped valve; and it was a great relief to see nothing out of the ordinary. My brother once again joined forces with me, and we hoiked all the front panels off, and made to take the radiator out. This involved some hacksawing of now-solid radiator hoses, and the draining of fluid (not necessarily in that order!); the fluid thankfully turned out to be antifreeze -- the good old sweet-tasting stuff that makes you blind.

It's worth bearing in mind, at this point, that we drained quite a lot of coolant out; three-quarters worth of one of those yellow plasterers' buckets, so the radiator clearly held fluid.

With the radiator out and stowed safely in the bed of the truck, I put my big (24") adjustable on the nut on the end of the crankshaft pulley, and puuuuuuulled...

...and it shifted. Not much, but it shifted. More oil glopped into the bores, more pulling, and eventually it was turning fairly easily. After turning it over a few times by hand, making sure there were no horrible noises or sudden stops, I borrowed the battery out of my car and connected it up.

Moment of truth... I hit the big old starter button, One of those old Lucas ones that switch the whole starter current, and it sizzled a little, let out a bit of smoke, and...

the starter motor wound the motor over with no problem. A little wiggle of joy was performed; and I decided to proceed with haste!

So I hurtled out to my (long-suffering) local parts store, who play a large role in this story, and bought a battery; which I very nearly dropped through the floor of the truck when I went to install it, because the battery box was rotten right out...

(Seriously, local parts places with people behind the counter who know what they're doing, who can look things up by sizes and shapes, who can find stuff that matches even though they don't have a registration or VIN to look up... Support them when you can; because the Internet might be cheaper, but you'll have a hell of a time taking an old oil filter element in to the Internet and asking if they have anything that matches it.)

By this time, the engine had freed up very nicely, and was cranking like a champion even with the spark-plugs in; but there was no spark. Yet more parts were put on order -- new coil and condensor -- and I started to plot just how much wiring I was going to have to do; because the crumbly old cotton-over-rubber stuff was a nightmare.

My memory of RLs is smashing your elbow on the back of the cab when changing from 1st to 2nd.....

12-10-16, 04:17 PM
And, before you knew it, the next episode rolled around; a brand new coil and condensor -- both in green Lucas boxes -- were fitted, and we had spark!

Unfortunately, it wasn't really happening at the right times; there was plenty of chuffing out of the carby, and an almighty WHUMPH out of the exhaust, which I later found to have burst the muffler. :D

So I retired to do some research, and wait for my head to stop spinning from the fumes; then returned to sort out the plug leads... getting the right order was easy enough, it's cast into the intake manifold, but finding out which one was meant to be cylinder 1 was a slightly different matter.

I initially tried the "wire down the plug-hole" method, but because of the angle that the plugs are at, that didn't work. Anyway, I found TDC on number one, rearranged all the plug leads -- they were in the right order, but rotated by two positions around the dizzy -- and cranked it...


And I was so surprised by it firing up and purring away on the carb-cleaner I was squirting down its throat, I nearly fell out of the cab.


Now gently vibrating with excitement. :D

Is that the truck or yourself, then?

Yes! :D

Half of an oil-change got done; namely, the "drain it out" bit. It was black as night, and reeked of petrol -- both ancient and new -- but it was still liquid. I half-filled a 20 litre oil drum that I'd chopped a hole in the side of, then managed to drop the filter into it when I got the housing to free off. Because that's just what happens...

12-10-16, 04:41 PM
---- Direct copy of the original post ----

Buckled prop-shaft is out... At some point, when I'm closer to having it drivable, I'll drop it off somewhere to see what they say about making it more... er... prop-shaft shaped.


I got the ancient and crusty radiator hose chiselled off, and the metal pipe bits cleaned up -- painted, too, in the case of the steel one -- with some new bits of radiator hose applied where appropriate. Not entirely all back together yet, though...

I don't want to put the radiator back in until I've got an alternator fitted, simply because I have plenty of access and light without the radiator in the way; and I'm expecting some fiddling about making/tweaking brackets and such-forth to line up the pulley. Plus, this should prevent me causing damage to the radiator while trying to make everything fit.

Not yet decided what alternator I'm going to use, but it'll probably be whatever's cheapest that I can get to fit. I can't foresee huge electrical demands, so something in the region of 55A will probably do just fine.

I'm also still making up my new electrical 'schematic', which I'll share when it's complete if there's any interest; but it's probably a little over-engineered for most, I'd suspect. (Vehicle electrics is something I do a lot of and quite enjoy, for the most part)

After I get the alternator and electric fuel pump put in, radiator reinserted and plumbed, and enough of the rewiring done to get the important bits working; I'll see if I can get the engine to run on liquid fuel through the carb, and if successful, I will probably make a very slow and careful lap of the industrial estate.

Then I'll probably attack it with the power washer, and remove a lot of the built up gunge around everything; makes it a lot easier to see where the grease-nipples are, for one...

Edit: Ooh! And if it moves under its own power, I can run it over the weigh-bridge and actually get a weight ticket for it.

Further edit: I did manage to finish the oil-change, btw. An equivalent filter element is readily available, via the usual parts stores; I took the old one in -- stamped AC 72 in the top -- and they got a Sogefi FA3448; but there are apparently quite a few different equivalents

---- END OF COPY ----

Then, armed with my cheapie electric fuel pump, new alternator, and a new belt which the parts place matched up with the split remains of the old one... I started throwing parts at the truck.
The fuel pump was bodge-wired in just so it would run (...I should note, there was a fuse; it was a bodge, not a death-trap!)

And, of course, it'd be rude not to have a play, wouldn't it?


At that point, the plan was to adjust the little rear mounting bracket that came off the dynamo and extend it to support the rear of the alternator (which was shorter, but fatter); re-fit the radiator, and refill with coolant; then have a trundle around the industrial estate!

The next day I got to work on the truck, I tweaked the bracket -- extended 30mm, and the mounting ear made taller by 10mm -- so it supported the alternator; carefully refit the radiator, and started pouring coolant in...

...only for it all to start pouring out of the bottom. Disaster!

12-10-16, 05:20 PM
Great writing style; good to read. Looking forward to the rest of the story... (end of copy) does give away someone who has done write ups/articles before.

Thanks for posting:tup:

12-10-16, 05:50 PM
Really interesting!

12-10-16, 05:55 PM
With that unpleasant discovery made, I made a quick hunt for a nearby radiator shop; where I dropped the rad off for them to inspect. I had hope that it wouldn't be too bad, as his preliminary assessment was that it was a cracked end-tank.

The next day, the phone rang, and it wasn't good news.

The core was rotten, from the top down. :puke:

I had three options: Find a modern radiator and bodge it to fit; re-core with a modern core; or re-core it with a vintage style core.
My wallet cried quietly; but I went with the re-core option using a modern core, since I'm not terribly concerned with originality, but finding a matching modern core would have been a whole headache of its own.

During the few weeks or so that I was sans radiator, I bodged up a total-loss cooling system and made a quick run to the other end of the workshop to run the truck over the weighbridge...

13:13:25 25 Mar 16

Vehicle: 5970kg
Number of axles: 2

Axle 1: 2480kg
Axle 2: 3490kg

Speed: 0.8km/h

The thermostat worked admirably, shown by the huge gushes of steam whenever it opened; but I'd nearly boiled everything out by the time I got her thrown back into the yard.
It was that day that I discovered just how loud a beastie she'd be, with that Zenith whistling away perched atop the intake manifold, and the very short exhaust...

A week or two passed by, with nothing more than gentle pottering; until I got a call from the radiator shop.



Phoenix Radiators, in Chorley, did a wonderful job. And then I dinged the paint fitting it back in; it's kinda heavy and a bit awkward to re-fit by yourself; what with that beam across the front for a tow-bar.

Leak free, now! Aside from the myriad small leaks from every hose-clamp I loosened, touched, or looked at funny during the process; the usual, really. To make sure, I ran her up to temperature, and decided to turn her around again; which was an interesting -- and exhausting -- task since some silly sod parked a cherry-picker right where I needed go to through, so I had to do a loop around it.

Have I mentioned that the steering's heavy? Well, it's heavy. Very heavy. (Though it's beginning to free up surprisingly well, now.) And there are no mirrors. (Still no mirrors, though. I tried to fix one of the broken ones by using mirror plastic. It's less than worthless.)


Thanks, fad. That is high praise indeed! :D Don't worry, there's plenty more to come... at this point, I'm up to the beginning of April or so.

english impala
12-10-16, 06:10 PM
Excellent, always liked old recovery trucks so keep the updates coming.

12-10-16, 06:16 PM
The magic moments. IT RUNS! IT MOVES!

Now to start work on getting it to stop! As the saying goes, it's a bugger if it don't go, but a catastrophe if it don't stop. (It still don't stop. I've only had a couple of close calls, though.)

Brake servo, and master cylinder.

What the manual says the servo and m/c is supposed to look like.

Hm. Hmm. Hmmmm.

So I had a fiddle about, and looked for some casting marks or part numbers; but didn't have an amazing amount of luck. So into the Empire of Shite it went, and sat for a bit; while I focussed on pulling the old winch rope off.

Did I mention there's a winch?


Well. There's a PTO driven winch mounted in the chassis, built in from factory; a 5-ton Turner model. I eventually figured out how to engage the PTO -- it's interlocked in the transfer case levers; can't engage PTO without the transfer case being in neutral -- and cut the end off the winch rope to let off some of the strain of it being pulled so tight against where the end was hooked.

Maybe I didn't need to cut the end off, in retrospect, but either way, the winch rope was shot.
Wouldn't like to take that up to 5 tons of pull; that's a recipe for someone getting hurt if it snaps. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but winch rope isn't immensely expensive. (I've got my eye on 30m of appropriately sized replacement wire rope at £12/meter. The truck was originally specified with over twice that amount, according to the manual; 250 feet, in particular. I don't think I'll need that much winch rope. I've been wrong before, though.)

Damn near killed me dragging that bundle down to the other end of the workshop, though.
A little more pottering about got the windscreens freed up, so I can open them again.

Classy or what? :D

12-10-16, 06:30 PM
At this point, I decided I'd best tackle the brakes again; because it would be nice to stop via a method other than "hoping really really hard".

Brake servo and master cylinder were separated...

The rubber boot pulled off the back of the master cylinder, to expose...

Schmoo! Well, that would explain all the crud built up in the servo linkage chamber. Now, at this point, the linkage that connected to the pedal (by a very long linkage. Bedford's designers liked their big linkages.) was flopping about freely, while the push-rod that shoved on the back of the master cylinder was showing no signs of movement.

So, smart as I is, I decided to pull off that big black cylinder that sticks out of the front. A word of caution, here: It contains spring-a-mathings. Even though I was expecting it to, and bracing against it, it spring-a-mathung. I did contain all the bits, though.

Pleased by my success there, I went to take the big daft chamber off the back of it; bracing myself for more spring-a-mathings. There weren't any, but there was a lot of crud.

The big chamber on the back, which I think is just an air accumulator, is also the back cover of the servo; so taking that off exposed the linkages.

Doesn't look too complex, does it? Though there were parts of it that were definitely not happy in the slightest; particularly that fixed pin on the right, which appears to have been soaked in gunge for goodness-knows how long.

Anyway, over my lunch break, I dragged the mechanism-y bit and the Big Daft Chamber over to the pressure washer and gave it a good blasting down; which made it easier to handle. Then I used my 3 pm break to wire-brush the rust off -- 4" grinder and a wire cup brush FTW! Just be really careful that it doesn't snag an edge and kick back, or you lose fingerprints and sizeable chunks of flesh before you can say "Ow" --, and paint, the outside of the pneumatic assist piston's cylinder; looks rather nice, now, in satin black.

Anyway, then I had to get the mechanism working again. I broke out the hot air-gun and gave it some warmth, and a lot of penetrating oil. After three or four goes around with this routine -- eyes watering heavily in the fumes of vapourising Double TT -- I eventually got it to start moving!

With this wind in my sails, I broke out the air-gun, and started applying pressure to the assist piston. Whereupon it went to the end of its travel, and stuck there. Damn.
Cue levering on the mechanism to reset it, and a few more cycles of heat & oil, and behold!


The port I first applied pressure to, the wrong one, is the outlet of a little valve that's acted upon by the underside of the linkage to feed controlled air pressure to the assist ram. (It's since turned out that valve is actually missing some bits. In particular, uh, the poppet valve itself. What a bugger.)

I have found that keeping your pinkies away from sharp and pointy things like the noisy end of grinders is important. Blood letting is not too good for morale.

Also, a quick peek under the lid of the master cylinder...
Black as anything, and stunk vaguely... fishy.

At this point, I set the brakes aside for a while; to revisit later, and decided to start on putting some metal back into the cab. Now, when I start talking about the body-work on this truck, you'll have to brace yourself; it's ugly.

12-10-16, 06:33 PM
Classy or what? :D

Yep, classy and good in the summer. Everyone else has windows shut and the AC on, and you can smell the grass.You got to do a McDs in that and reach for the offending food from the windscreen.

Oh and yella is a really good colour.

12-10-16, 06:53 PM
So, where to start on the bodywork?

Well, a battery-box that the battery doesn't fall through is probably a good start; so, without much further ado, I went and put one together with a leftover bit of 3mm at work.


You can see the remnants of the old one in the background, just behind the wheel of the truck. At this point, the battery was being held up by the battery hold-down. Try not to think too hard about that.

Some welding was performed, including via some slightly-too-small holes for plug-welds to attach the battery-box to the cab frame. It wasn't fully welded, because there's not quite so much on that side of the cab that's actually structural any more. :eek:

I should mention that, by this point, the battery had actually fallen out of the truck, bounced off the wheel, and landed on its edge on the floor. No leaks, just a bit of cracked plastic, thankfully. I'd only just undone the battery leads, and went to grab the handle, and it just... disappeared. :eek:

By the time I was done with that, it was 1900H, and getting dark in the workshop -- typically, that section right at the door is where one of the lights doesn't work -- so I decided I needed to move the truck outta there! Bearing in mind, this is on a Sunday night, which is about the only time of week I can borrow workshop space and a welder; and I really didn't want to leave the truck there for Monday morning. My supervisor already greatly dislikes me, and I think he'd probably explode if he found the door blocked by this thing...

Especially since they'd not be able to move it... They'd have to figure out how to power up the fuel pump and the ignition coil, then figure out where the starter switch is, then figure out they'd need to bridge that with something because the switch doesn't work any more... then they'd have had to drive the whole heavy thing with no brakes, no mirrors, and HEAVY steering all the way back to the compound, whereupon they would've run out of fuel exactly where I did, blocking the gateway into the compound. :pmsl: Case in point:


Sadly, this video doesn't include the following hour of slapstick that ensued, trying to get the truck shoved back into place with the forklift, getting the forklift stuck by dropping one wheel into a pothole and having the open diff do its thang, and shoving the forklift back out of the pothole with an Escort van.

If I had that video, it'd make for beautiful watching. Oh, and we also hit the fence with the truck when I pushed it back with my friend steering. (Until that point, he'd never driven anything bigger than an LDV Convoy.)


Yep, classy and good in the summer. Everyone else has windows shut and the AC on, and you can smell the grass.You got to do a McDs in that and reach for the offending food from the windscreen.

Oh and yella is a really good colour.

I think I'd probably bring the drive-through down with the top of the jib, knowing my luck! :pmsl:
Yella is a good colour, for sure; I'm going to do my best to keep it in the same livery.
Not everyone's quite so sure about the colour; the paperwork from Crouch's Recovery has the colour as "Yellow-ish". :D

Excellent, always liked old recovery trucks so keep the updates coming.

Plenty more hilarity to come!

12-10-16, 06:58 PM
love it,trucks are ace.:tup:

12-10-16, 07:20 PM
Lovin' the story :tup:

12-10-16, 07:33 PM
So, getting annoyed at blowing chunks out of spanners, etc. bridging that starter switch to crank the engine, I ordered a starter solenoid, some battery cable, some new battery terminals, etc.


From the original thread:
Once I have all the wiring in, I'll make sure it's all properly protected from abrasion and the like; but it makes life easier for it to be out in the open for now. The twin brown wires on the battery side of the starter solenoid are the output from the alternator, the thinner red wire from that stud is the feed forwards to the fuse-box -- it'll terminate at one of two insulated studs that I'll use to feed the fuses; the other insulated stud will be ignition lives, connected to the battery live stud by a beefy relay that's switched by the ignition key.

(I'll have to get the diagram drawn up, it should be a bit clearer then.)

Started running the wires for oil pressure switch (black/red); alternator field feed (green/black), via the ignition warning light; the starter solenoid switch feed (green/red); and a nice large feed to where the new fuse and relay box will be.

Then it really started hammering it down, and I decided I was too cold and wet to want to keep struggling with those wires as my fingers went numb; so I just draped them all off the carb and went home for some warmth.


The drips/puddles on the floor (and inlet manifold) that you can see, aren't from the roof; but the seal around the top of the windscreen. However, there are a few places that the roof is now see-through; and inevitably, the drips will come through those just as your bare neck is placed right below them...

The Next Day!

First signs of life! Okay, it's only those lights, and the starter solenoid, but it's the start of a long journey. The engine cranks over much much better with the solenoid than it ever did with the old starter button; but I've yet to fire her up since I last parked her up last week.

I also drained the fuel tank, and yuk! Came out looking like morning pee; and stunk something unmentionable.
Also, since I brutally mangled the drain plug removing it, I now have a grease-nipple stuck in the bottom of the fuel tank because it happened to be the same thread. It's the little things...

----- end of copy -----

Next on the list of things I did was to try take the wheels off to at least have a nosey at the brake shoes and cylinders. Well, that was an exercise in, er, well... exercise and frustration.

I managed, with a great deal of struggle, to have all of the front offside nuts off one by one, and went to start on the other side. (Plan being to clean the threads off with a wire wheel, and make sure I could actually remove them easily when it came to jacking that corner up and removing the wheel & brakes.)

Well, I twisted the old wheel-nut bar thing a good 1/8 of a turn as well as bending it. (And yes, I was aware they're left-hand thread... ) Got two of them broken loose; but the rest are incredibly tight. I resorted to desperate measures after reminding myself that my 3/4" drive impact isn't really strong enough, and managed to warp my 3/4"F-1"M adapter into another dimension by trying to use the truck's weight to loosen them off.

(Breaker bar, adapter, socket; brace the breaker bar against the floor, and drive the truck forward... there was a lurch, followed by a clang. The breaker bar is undamaged, the socket was still on the wheel-nut, and the adapter has gone. *sigh*)

I still haven't managed to find that adapter, five months later.

I also managed to blow the oil pressure switch up by connecting power to the wrong wire; shorted battery to ground directly through the pressure switch.
Some faffing about later, and some... er... gentle prodding that I was completely wrong on my guess of what thread it was.

I came up with an answer of 5/16BSP. That's not even a thing. Turns out, 1/4NPT has the same thread pitch as 5/16 Whitworth.
"I learned a ting!"

I managed to get a replacement ordered. This stopped play, though, due to the oil squirting out of a 1/4NPT sized hole in the oil filter.

Tangent Time!

Around this time, I managed to scroll to the wrong place in the manual, and learnt something else...

I landed in WSM Supplement #5, "BODY, TRACTOR, 3 TON, FIELD ARTILLERY, 4x4 BEDFORD"...

Well, I'd wondered about that latch...

...and it does explain the handle above the passenger door.

And, better still, there's a nice illustration in that section of the manual...

...that mostly matches up.

The truck, as far as I can tell, has been shortened (presumably by Vass, when they did their conversion.); so that's where the doors in the side have gone, I'd imagine. So, in its former life, it was a field-artillery tractor; most likely towing a 25-pounder or something similar.

Anywho, moving on!

Work had a bloke over to change some tyres, so I asked if he could crack the wheel-nuts loose -- since he had all the right gear, a 1" drive impact and a big compressor -- and he quite happily obliged. It's impressive when the big impact struggles; but it did manage to get them all loose....


I offered beer-tokens in return, but he was more than happy to just hear it run and get some pictures of him sat in the cab while it burbled away. :D This was a definite step forward in getting the wheels off to fight with the brakes.

Then, because I'm jumping about all over the place with it, doing what I can when I have bits and time; I carried on with the replacement fuse and relay box I was building.


Is it perhaps obvious that I do electrics a bit? :D A far cry from 4 35A fuses and a jar of magic smoke.

You forgot the cigar lighter/phone charger socket!! :D

12-10-16, 08:01 PM
Bloody marvellous. Great narrative style and a very interesting story. This'll keep me amused for ages.. :tup:

12-10-16, 08:06 PM
I managed to open the tin of black magick today...


Accelerator pump was stuck right the way down in its bore, but -- with a little fettling -- now works marvellously! The 300 seems a lot more lively when the loud pedal is pressed. Very tempted to take the big yellow beastie on a lap of the industrial estate to celebrate; but decided against it... (I really really don't want to cause trouble by being 6 tonnes of metal at 10+mph without brakes, which really should be next on my list now.) And, any month now, I'll actually have brakes.

Decided I'd spend some fuel to bring her up to temperature and see what else leaks, dribbles, or seeps. Water pump leak has gotten a little worse, by the looks of it; the makeshift gasket for the float bowl gently seeps fuel out; and I have a bit of an oil-seep from the rocker cover at the back of the engine.


Then it was time for another episode of ego meets metal

I decided, over the bank holiday weekend, to jack one corner up, pull the wheels off, yank the drum and at least have a look at the condition of the brake internals.

Someone who knows the old Bedfords better than I did at the time will now be chuckling and shaking their head. Because I was at this point, and trying to gently tap the drum free with no luck...


...before I decided I'd have to check the manual, and made the frustrating discovery that the whole hub has to come off, because the drum is bolted to it in such a manner that it won't come off the front. I guess they expected that, by the time the brakes were worn heavily enough that you needed to replace the brake shoes, you should be adjusting and/or replacing the bearings anyway.

Wheels back on again, then. (Cue another hour of fighting, and having to borrow the forklift to get the wheels back on.)

"If at first you don't succeed, give up and run away (then try again later)".

Loving this restoration blog. Been there (some years ago) with my first truck which was a Matador. Having not learned that lesson, I then bought a 2nd...

Also, as the coolant weep from the water pump was slowly getting worse, I snagged a NOS rebuild kit from the Bay of Flea.

Well, wasn't I in for a whole hilarious sh*tfest. I took the pulley off and had a look at how much was weeping, then undid the radiator cap, and it turned into a fountain from the top weep hole.

Once it'd finished draining, I quickly picked the remnants of the gasket from the front of the block and lugged the water pump into the workshop.

A quick whip-over with a paint and rust stripping disk (expensive, but they're magic) cleaned it up nicely, but revealed it's not this water pump's first go around the block.
Does jive with the comments in the other thread about the block perhaps being a re-manufactured one, judging by the really quite high engine number.

Unfortunately, I could only just about get two out with anything that could be described as "reasonable force", so there was nothing for it; I resorted to welding nuts onto the remaining screws and they wound out with no fight whatsoever. Should've done that with all of them. Replacement screws were ordered from Ebay, as usual. (Countersunk socket-head 5/16BSW, iirc.)

However, that left me with a water-pump that I needed a gear-puller to take the front off; and I didn't have a gear-puller. Typical.

So, while I stood around, I did an auctioneer's rebuild on the pulley and fan.

Red was used because it makes things go faster. This stuff should make it go really fast.

I returned the next day, armed with a brand new gear-puller from Halfords. I hooked the gear-puller onto the pulley-mounting flange, struggled for a bit with a spanner on it, said sod it and plugged in the impact.

And there was a snap.

The flange on the shaft became a cast-iron jigsaw puzzle. The puller is totally unharmed. (Bet you didn't see that one coming! :pmsl: )
However, it did get the damn thing off, even if it was in too many bits to go back on; and that let me dismantle the water pump, after dropping the jigsaw puzzle off at the machine shop with a sheepish grin and a "Could you please make me another one of these?"

Oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear


The bearings were well on their way to becoming a breakfast cereal, with that much crunch.

A few days later, my bag of replacement screws turned up; and I put the water pump together with its new bits as best as I could figure out sans instructions. Then I just had to wait on the machine-shop for the flange.

It would prove to be a long wait, because the shaft was a weird size (35/64ths springs to mind for some reason.), and they were going to do it between actual paying jobs.

12-10-16, 08:30 PM
Bloody marvellous. Great narrative style and a very interesting story. This'll keep me amused for ages.. :tup:

Well, they said I could be anything when I grew up; so I decided to be a warning to others. :pmsl:

While I was waiting for the water pump flange...


A good afternoon was had swapping grease nipples out for modern ones, and forcing grease into things until it shoved all the old crusty bits out, which smoothed out the recovery gear quite nicely; I also managed to wind the drums back up a little bit more tidily than they were before.

I still need to replace that cable, too; but it's not critical. It'll also probably lay back down a bit more nicely if I put some weight on the end of it, too. Considering making a new doo-dah for the A-frame that acts as a wheel-lift; rather than the style that's on there that I think is meant to pick up on truck hitch/towing points in the front.

Also took a greasy rag to the plates on the gear, and shined them up quite nicely.


Some cleaning and chassis painting also happened!


And a section I hadn't yet gotten to, for comparison...

Nothing magic in use there; Hammerite (Yeah, yeah, I know. :incheek: ) Underbody seal with added Waxoyl. It seems to do a good job, and it's nice and gloopy; so should stand up quite well.

I didn't hit the tank mountings with it, because I had something else in store for them. (To be entirely honest, I wasn't sure whether or not I'd be re-using them or perhaps swapping the tank out for a different one with different brackets.)

I also made the most difficult choice of all...

What colours to paint it. :D

the yellow bodywork will be going BS 381C Golden Yellow, including the roof that's currently brown. (I did want to make the roof black; but I suspect that it'll be hot enough in the cab without turning it into a solar cooker. It's bad enough in full sun with it in brown!)
The recovery jib, in black; with some yellow at the top to make the height of it visible, so I have a chance of not accidentally hitting things with it.
Wheels; probably black. Maybe.

It was also around now -- early July -- that the shaft on the water pump was pronounced to be some weird size they didn't have a reamer for; so it'd end up getting sat on the back burner...

(It was quite amusing as he mic'd it up, frowned at it, mic'd it again, got the calculator out, mic'd it again, went over to the conversion chart... And pronounced it to be 35/64ths, so it had to be bored out rather than simply drilled and reamed. There's always something, isn't there?)

Well, with the truck going to be stuck there for the forseeable future, I started on tearing up the bed floor; the plan there being:
1. The boards were rotten and needed replacing anyway
2. Pulling them out gave me better access to the inside of the chassis to clean it out and paint it up.

The planks down the centre were the worst, and I'd already fallen through one of them. The ones that seemed good, and I was not so happy about pulling out, turned out to be rotten at the edges too; so eh, out they go!

This exposed the inside of the chassis much more; and let me assess the paint situation.

"Topcoat, screwed. Red lead primer: still as good as the day it was painted."

Still plenty of scraping, wire-brushing, etc required, though...

I had wondered why those cross-members flexed so much while I was prying on the boards!
Yup, Vass gas-axed the C section so they could run the sub-frame for the jib through. And the end of the subframe that's hidden under the body is a nice wobbly torch cut, too. I'd be getting a shouting at for being too rough, if I did that. :D

12-10-16, 08:45 PM
Carrying on the theme of bits being removed, I took the storage rack off from behind the cab to give me some more room to work with the cab-back; and once again, BSW fasteners got my praise for being amazingly resistant to seizing due to corrosion. Metric stuff that's been exposed to crud for less than a year seems to seize utterly solid, but these things have been there for at least 30 years, and they came undone as if they were still brand new.

Well, that let me take a good look at the front of the body.


And the back of the cab. Which has what can only... very politely be referred to as "repairs".


Then, I clambered up to inspect the known rust-holes in the roof, and leant on a bit I probably shouldn't.



And the more I hit it with the wire brush, the more it looked like a teabag!

So, thoroughly depressed by that, I moved onto the bit I was climbing up there to look at...

Ominous, eh? Now, there was a Large tub of P38 in one of the side-lockers when I got the truck, and this is probably where the bulk of it has gone.


Some hammering, and prying lat... Is that bloody newspaper!? Why, yes, it is! :shake:

More hammering, scraping, and prying later.


Let's see what's behind Door 38



(You can tell what's coming, can't you?)

12-10-16, 08:49 PM



Oh, good grief.



Oh, there it is.

Cleaned up as best as I could, then covered in a thick coat of primer -- just like all the other spots -- in the hope that I can stave off the rust long enough that I still have something to attach my repair patches to.

In better news, I went to go do something about that strange peeling square of paint on the front cheek; and some scraping uncovered something. That red is too... red to be primer.

It's the remnants of a flash. Red over blue would be Royal Artillery, which matches nicely with the "field artillery" fixtures and fittings that are there. But there's also some other little bits that look like remnants from perhaps an earlier marking; though there was so little there, it's hard to say what came first and what's over-painted with what.


It would have been nice if it were in better condition, then I might be able to see more of it; but as it was, most of it was falling away in a stiff breeze, it'd curled and flaked off that badly. And, in the interests of avoiding it rusting again, I painted as much of the bare metal as I could.

A few days later, I had one of those days. Y'know, the ones where you step back and go WHAT THE HELL HAVE I GOT MYSELF INTO?!

12-10-16, 09:00 PM
Soooooooooooo much to read - and sooooooooooooo interesting too! - being a Bedford is the engine a Vauxhall 2.2 ltr or 2.6 ltr 6 bangers or one of those GM Canada larger capacity lumps?

12-10-16, 09:08 PM
Well, let's rewind a little bit from that last image.

*wibbly-wobbly rewinding effect*

I got myself a new toy, a cordless grinder. This did not bode well for the truck. :incheek:
It was meant to be a recon mission; figure out where the rotten bits were, and come up with a plan of attack. So on the wire wheel went, and I started whizzing away the filler.

Some bits didn't appear so bad...

And some of the bits that looked bad, turned out not to look so bad after all.

Remember that remark. We'll be coming back to that bit later.

However, the back of the cab was in rough shape; with definite signs of advanced rot.

And some signs of previous repairs. It's hard to see here, but there are definite warning signs of the disaster that I was about to uncover.

Oh, and then there was the back corners of the cab floor.

So I decided to attack the driver's door first; since removing the filler exposed the full amount of terribleness. There was a lot of terribleness; so it all had to be cut out.

I've seen teabags with fewer holes!

A bit of tin-bashing later...


All of that had to be done by hand; because the little hand-held joggler/punch can't move 1mm by enough. It's a pretty rough job by the standards of sheet metal work guys, but coming from a guy in a plate-work background...

Some fettling required.

Well, I didn't have a long enough extension lead to run the 800 yards from the workshop to where the truck was parked; so I just had to prime that panel and set it aside with the other couple of panels I'd bashed out. So, onward and... er... downward.

Remember that bit I said didn't look so bad, earlier?




And that's when the whole corner of the cab fell off.

All of that fuzzy bit looks to be a repair to the structure of the cab; there's a bit of box-section, and then a patch over the top of it. None of which was painted prior to becoming sealed away, so it's all instantly rotted again. The inside of the box section feels to be full of flakes; and I'm still deciding how much more I need to chop at.

You can get counselling for that kind of traumatic experience


Soooooooooooo much to read - and sooooooooooooo interesting too! - being a Bedford is the engine a Vauxhall 2.2 ltr or 2.6 ltr 6 bangers or one of those GM Canada larger capacity lumps?

It's a 300cin 6-banger (4.9-ish litres). Apparently a close relative of a Chevrolet engine. The compression is... hilarious, by modern standards; but it did need to run on 60-octane pool petrol. 6.7:1. Yes. Six point seven to one.

12-10-16, 09:35 PM



Update at the time, 4th August:

Water pump: is still at the machine shop. I'm getting a little bit grumpy about not having it; but they're trying to fit it in around their other jobs, it's understandably a low priority, not helped by it being an awkward size shaft in the rebuild kit, and thus involves boring out to dimension rather than drilling and reaming.

Such is life. Half considering making a blanking plate with the appropriate fittings to fit an electric water pump; but that then results in needing an electric fan, etc. All doable, but I'd rather not, at this point; it adds yet more complexity and points of failure. Still, it's a back-up plan in case the mechanical pump still leaks after I did the rebuild...

Fuel tank: surprisingly clean inside. Looks to have been galvanised from the factory, and there are only a few very small patches that look even slightly iffy; I have had to shake some lumps of lead out of it, which I suspect are from a past repair that I can see evidence of on the outside.

Planning to strip the outside down with a wire wheel, and repaint it, because it looks a bit tatty. No major problem, really. Biggest issue -- and it's only a little one, at that -- is likely to be sorting out the filler cap. I suspect I should be able to just (there's that magic word again) get it re-keyed, and reassemble the filler in the reverse order of removal.

(I'll also need to re-make the tank straps, but that shouldn't be a major problem. Just a chain of minor ones, knowing how these things go. )

Fuse panel:


Some untangling needed.


Now, the fuse-board looks kinda terrible at that point, because I changed my mind on how I was going to build it while I was building it; if I were to do it again, the same way, then the holes that the wires drop down through would be more like large slots so it wouldn't be so cramped. This is just how prototyping goes, really...

I didn't want to splice a whole heap of wires to connect the fusebox to to the truck wiring; so I ordered up some connectors.

I'm rather partial to TE's products, since I use a lot of them at work. These are 18-pin connectors out of the MCP 1.5 series, rated amply (fnar! :D) for the fuses I expect to use.

I ordered two, just in case, and ended up filling both of them. I think I have a pin or two still spare in one of them.

A week after that update, I got the flange back from the machine-shop so I could finish reassembling the water pump! Like a divot, I was so excited about getting it back, I didn't take any pictures.

There was a minor heart-attack moment shrinking it onto the shaft for the water pump, when it bound up only half-way down, and I had to use the puller to get it back off again. My next attempt was better; I had the damn thing glowing before I dropped it on.

With the pump rebuilt, I threw everything back together... ahahahahah, no, it was a fight.
The water pump has a stub going upwards to the thermostat housing, which is connected by about an inch of heater hose. And because it's so short, and a straight run, you have to get the length exactly perfect or you can't bolt the thermostat housing back on.

I got it close enough, but there's a hilarious little bulge where it's taken up the extra eigth of an inch. :D

Anyway, I used some black gasket-maker as a replacement for the old water-pump/block gasket. Left that overnight to cure fully, and filled the radiator back up...

Miracle of miracles, it didn't gush straight back out again! Naturally, every hose-clamp I loosened, touched, or looked at funny in the process leaked; so I had to chase around after leaks.

After that, though, I decided the best thing to do would be to drive it over to the machine shop that made the flange.


That Sunday, I stayed at the workshop after my shift and started doing some sheet metal abuse... It's not the prettiest, but it'll smooth out okay with some time and effort.


The "stand back and squint" edition:

The "up close and personal, warts and all" edition:

It was only welded on the outside; I still have to get at the innards of the door to clean it up and weld it properly. I also still need to fix the hole in the door where the mirror arm used to mount.

Having mirrors would be nice. It's ... interesting, trying to park up against a fence, with cars parked behind you... when you can only just about see backwards through the window in the back of the cab. No major events have occurred yet, though.

The fusebox work carried on merrily...

Looks pretty nice on the front, but the backside is an abomination unto Nuggan.

Again, this is still in its "prototype" state; which it probably never will go beyond. If I were to build another one of these, there's plenty of stuff I'd do differently.
A big change was to build it into an enclosure, which gives me a nice way to mount the sockets...

12-10-16, 09:49 PM
So! Mounting those sockets in a Gewiss (or other similar white box) enclosure...

Drill a rectangular hole in the side of the enclosure large enough to get the socket's flange through.

Make a tab, shaped thusly.

Shove that so!

And then bung a screw through it to hold it all put.

The astute amongst you may notice that there are two connectors in the box... One (labelled "Power") is the outputs from the relays and fuses to the various lights; the other (labelled "Switches"), runs to the instrument panel, etc.

Using those plugs, the fuse/relay box could be completed entirely outside of the truck; rather than fitting it to the back wall of the cab -- behind the passenger's seat, as there's enough room there, just -- and then having to try terminate all those wires in a neat manner while folded into unpleasant shapes.

There was plenty of contortionism required, but this reduced it quite nicely; and the connectors just plug right on... I just had to run the large fused power, and a matching ground, cable into the box via some glands.

I do like these connectors; and they're pretty well-proven in an automotive environment, too. DAF, et al, use variants of them pretty heavily down the chassis of their trucks. (It should be noted, I've not bothered with the little rubber sealing bungs and whatnot in my plug; because I don't expect the environment to be invading that high up into the truck interior. (Also because I forgot to order them.) Worst case, I plug the back of the, er, plug with silicon. )


Bolted up to the back wall of the cab; though the internal panel bit is still flopping about, so if I take the front of the enclosure off to change a fuse, the whole panel escapes and attacks me.

Just clears the back of the seat. Just.

Well, with it in place, I could start cramming wires in.

I can run them roughly where the old wiring used to run. Once it's all complete and everything's run, I'll loom it up with something. Probably convoluted plastic conduit, because that stuff's great.

At this point, most of the bodge-wires behind the instrument panel were surplus to requirements; so out they came, which is a big step, because they've been running the truck since about the first time I had it fired up.

Still looks pretty bodged, though. Tidiness comes in time.

Now, since I was making such great progress on the electricals, I decided it was about time to stop and go back to the brakes; I mean, I'd had a rebuild kit for a Clayton Dewandre master cylinder for a week or two by this point, so let's unearth the m/c and have a play!

Some tinkering turned the master cylinder into an exploded diagram.

Those seals look pretty shot...

Those look good, though.

The bore was looking pretty cruddy, but I thought I could hone it out and it'd be okay.

I was still hopeful at this point, but it turned out to be bad enough that it'd require sleeving. That's all still up in the air at the moment.

So what else do I have to start...
Oh, right! The fuel tank.

Paint-stripper disk, wire brush, red primer...

12-10-16, 10:05 PM
Well, with removing all those bodge-wires, that meant the fuel pump wasn't electrically connected to anything any more; so it had to be moved somewhere else on the truck.

And that meant that it couldn't reach the short length of hose I'd been using until then; so I needed something to extend the run, and I wanted a fuel filter... so I went looking for something, and turned up this.

In hindsight, I wouldn't recommend using this filter. I got it because it's got two 8mm hose barbs on top and it's quite a large filter; but I hadn't realised it also has a strange feature on top that is meant to take a special fitting that I believe is a return/bleed from the pressure regulator in its original application.

But, it's what I'd bought, so it's what I used.

I tried to plug the hole for the odd fitting, since it turned out to be about the perfect size to tap for 1/4 BSP; but I didn't manage to seal it quite tight enough, because there's a very gentle bubbling from it when the fuel pump was running. Eventually, it bubbled enough fuel up to start dripping onto the exhaust; I only noticed this when the exhaust had warmed up, and it was starting to steam as it dripped petrol onto it. :eek:

I tried a few ways of sealing it, in increasing desperation, and eventually using an O-ring and plenty of gasket-goop worked.

Now, normal people would probably use a large P-clip or something to mount it; but no, not I.

"A grinder and paint..."

Some holes were drilled, spatter removed, edges cleaned up, and some paint thrown at it; and I bolted it to the truck, shoved the filter in and connected everything up.

There are a few wires bundled up there that will -- eventually -- run back down the chassis; along with a whole bunch of others that aren't in yet.

Onwards and upwards; or, rather, backwards and downwards...

A thorough wire-brushing, and an application of Kurust later...

New threaded bit, and some primer...

Then, at some point, my tin of black paint turned up, so I started on making the tank all nice and shiny.
Mmmm, glossy.

The camera does a great job of picking out every single imperfection in the surface, and it's not helped by the angle I took the shot at; but it's barely noticeable unless you're up close and looking at it, and it should smooth/polish out quite nicely.

Since I already had the brush covered in black paint, I painted the tank bracket I'd primed earlier; then fought the other one off the truck.

Y'know when you have those times when you'd rather the bolt would just snap, because it'd be quicker than struggling to unwind it because of e.g. gacked thread? Yeah. Still, it came off.


In our next episode, the tank goes on!

12-10-16, 10:20 PM
Just like everything else on the truck, the tank fought me. The forward bracket didn't want to line up with the holes I took it out of. (Bloody hole fairies again.), so I had to drill a new hole.

Then the studding I put on the tank-straps turned out not to be long enough, so I had to make up some extensions on the poverty-lathe.

And then I broke off the pipe from the pickup in the tank; leaving me with only a stub to attach a section of rubber hose to. :grr:

The miracle-wire with a spade terminal on it, is the level sender connection. The original terminal had near enough infinite resistance, and I didn't want to destroy everything trying to undo the corroded lump at the top in the vain hope of fixing it. So I drilled a hole in the brass strip, soldered a wire in, and stuck that through a tight-fitting hole that I drilled in the lid; I've also added a ground wire because there's no other way that it'll all ground through the freshly painted tank and brackets, it runs down to the pump, where it joins a 6mm² ground-wire that runs up to the bolt through the freshly-drilled hole holding the tank bracket on.

Recovery from destroying the pipe: Cut the twisted bits off, leaving just enough that a hose will push on and a hose-clamp screwed down really tightly holds well.

Then, the moment of truth; will it actually hold fuel?

My funnel wasn't long enough to reach the filler neck without being nearly horizontal, and I left my little transfer pump (the bulb type) at home. Thankfully, I don't ever throw anything away, and this redex bottle turned out to be pretty much perfect for turning into an extension funnel.

Then I needed a temporary filler cap, while I sort out the 'original' one.

Turns out, if you cut the threads off a Scania locking fuel cap, and file it smooth, it wedges in there quite nicely.
(No, I didn't sacrifice it for that purpose; it was already scrap. Someone left it screwed into the aluminium filler neck while they plasma'd it from the tank. Turns out, aluminium is really good at conducting heat; and those plastic threads don't like heat very much. :doh:)

This was the point I managed to sort the leaking from the top of the fuel filter.

I also sorted the leak in the fuel filter. Couldn't get the threaded fitting to seal with ptfe tape (it just dissolved); couldn't get an O-ring to stay put under it without a washer, but a washer meant the threads wouldn't engage any more because of the taper; so I stuck the O-ring on with the silicon gasket-maker, then gooped the hell out of the threads with the same silicon. Tried it this afternoon while on my dinner-break, and it seems to be holding very nicely.

Considering the pressure behind it, I'm going to call it good. (When I pulled the little black & blue pipe cap from the stub pipe last time, to unscrew the fitting and make another attempt at sealing it, there was enough residual pressure in there that petrol spurted up higher than the level of the truck roof.)

Now, clearly, the next step in the process...



Yup. Headlights, of course! The ones in there were sealed beams that didn't work any more.
So out they came, and were replaced by some nifty modern Lucas bits (LUB328) that are an exact replacement but take a H4 bulb; and an 80/100W bulb in each.

Nice! :D

If I want to be able to change the bulbs without unclipping the fronts and pulling the whole lens assembly out, I'll have to cut a hole in the back of the light-bins; but I don't forsee it being a major problem, for how long a modern bulb should last. I'll probably change my mind when I have to do that in the dark.

And the reason I chose to do the headlights? Because it put off attacking the rust for a little while... But, eventually, I had to face up to it.



Then this corner just fell off, too! :D


12-10-16, 10:36 PM
Still, though....


Recently, I got myself a torque-multiplier off't internet for £40 brand new -- seriously, I don't know how they do it. I don't think I could've got the sockets on their own for that cheap, and they've got a good solid weight to them, rather than the stuff made out of tinfoil -- that lets me wind those wheel-nuts off with two fingers. It's going to make getting at the brakes significantly less of a battle.

Since then, some more metal fell out...


and a patch panel made a few months ago, was offered up

I had originally intended to joggle the edges of the roof where I was fitting the new metal into, thus the holes for plug welds; unfortunately, the rot extended a little further than anticipated and the areas I intended to joggle turned out to be not substantial enough to survive the joggling. Next patch panel, I'll not bother punching the holes in it; and then I'll end up needing to joggle it and punch holes, probably.

And, welded in...

Mid-process pic. It was beginning to get dark by the time I'd finished welding; and I was in a bit of a rush to apply paint, and get the truck out of the workshop, so didn't take any further pictures.

At that point, I had a repeat of the last time I had the truck pulled into the workshop: not enough fuel to start and run back to the parking spot. :pmsl: Thankfully, since I'm not running out of the jerry-can any more, I had enough left in that to refill the truck's tank just enough to start and hurtle back to the compound.

I dread to think what an ear-bashing I'd get for blocking up prime workshop space. :D

And that's us all caught up!

13-10-16, 09:41 PM
This thread should keep us all entertained for years :tup:
Keep up the good work.

14-10-16, 07:16 PM
This thread should keep us all entertained for years :tup:
Keep up the good work.

And the truck's likely to keep me busy for years; so there'll be plenty more hilarity to come, I'm sure. :D

plastic wiganer
16-10-16, 08:33 PM
great thread and interesting project too, will be keeping an eye on this for sure, good luck with it :tup:

17-10-16, 10:50 PM
Only a small update, for now. I've taken a week off work to de-stress, so I'm having a busman's holiday...

Couldn't get the truck into the workshop over the weekend to do any welding, because a paying job was in the way (How inconvenient!), so I changed all the spark-plugs, and made up some new spark-plug leads.


(Ordered from cylinder #6 to #1.)

Honestly, those plugs could be a damn sight worse considering they're the ones that were in there when I bought the truck. (You can even see the rust-pitting on the end of #3, because that was the cylinder with its intake valve open, if you look closely!)


6 of NGK's B6S plugs; I like NGK's spark plugs because the box is a nice cheerful yellow. ;)

And new leads, which are a bit of a rat's nest at the moment, because I was replacing one at a time to make sure I got them all connected in the right places. (Fireballs out of the carb are distinctly unpleasant when your face is so close to it.)

I'm going to go back and do a bit of tidying/cleaning up tomorrow, including making sure that all the contacts on the inside of the dizzy are clean of corrosion/gunk, and all the moving bits move freely.

Have to say, though, changing those plugs was not my favourite job; laying across the board that's currently acting as driver's seat, legs stuck out of the driver's door, and smacking myself in the back with the steering wheel every time I tried to get up.

Was almost worth the siezed-up knees and aching chest when it fired up and ran so smoothly afterwards, though! (Right up until I walloped the dizzy-cap while refitting the engine side cover -- Yup, I'm just that clumsy -- and dislodged it. :noob: )

23-10-16, 08:02 PM
I went to go do some tinkering with the truck; and I did!

"Nooo, you didn't!"

I bloody well did!

"Well, g'wan, what did you do?"


I fell off it, and landed with one elbow on the cab roof, and the other on the body; both elbows thus brought sharply level with my earholes. Something went crunch. I think it was me. That's prepared me quite nicely for my return to work tomorrow, I think.

Other than that, I cut a hole in the roof, and put some more metal in; thus reducing some of the holey-ness.


(Even fairly small patches are pretty time-consuming. Particularly with a welder that randomly decided not to flow any gas... )

I did apply some body-filler just to soften those ridges where the welds were; it was overheating alarmingly quickly trying to take them down with a sanding disc, even being careful, and I didn't want to thin it out too much.

It'll look significantly less-ugly when I can sand it smooth. It still hadn't set by the time I needed to vacate the workshop. :giggle:

Also discovered the O/S cab mount has delaminated... this was discovered by the whole cab tipping over alarmingly as I heaved myself up by the grab-handle above the N/S door. (This same thing also claimed another victim; my co-workers' iPhone, which fell out of his pocket and landed screen-down on the carpark when he did the same thing I did, to point out the body-mount separating. It popped the whole front off it, cracked the screen, and launched the home-button off to realms unknown. :pmsl: Those things are the very definition of fragile, by my book...)

...and that the brakes are dragging on one side of the rear axle.

(Also, how'sabout that parking? I managed to put it back into in its own tyre ruts, in reverse, with no mirrors!)



It'd be much more interesting if I was making those sorts of marks by spinning the rear wheels under the truck's own power.

02-11-16, 10:34 PM
Well, I figured out what went crunch; my elbow has been utter agony for the past week and a bit. Yesterday, I was swinging my way up and down a stepladder -- 24" adjustable in hand -- to get to some hydraulics with only one good arm; it's good exercise. (Someone else finally exorcised that HIAB today; because I couldn't find all the gremlins. Apparently it didn't get the memo that Halloween was over... :shake: Funny when it tries to knock its own valve-block off, of its own accord, when you put the truck in PTO, though.)

Anyway, the weekend is here, and I had my rebuild kit (ZSK33) for the carb: mostly gaskets and springs, and a few adjusting screws; so I settled in for a couple of hours at work cleaning, scraping, prodding, poking and twisting.

Completely forgot to keep taking pictures throughout the process, but there's only so interesting you can make "wire-brush like hell", "scrape at little bits of crud", "undo stuff", and "have springy thing launch itself across the workshop" in photographs; it really needs HD video for the full tedium quotient.

But I didn't have my video headcam, so you're saved all of that. :D You get the few pictures of the results.


The big scary diagram of DOOOOOOOOOM.

"Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, but you curse in different places."

And then, reinstall it in the truck without dropping anything down the intake manifold. See if you can spot what very important thing I forgot to reinstall, that caused bricks to be shat when I started the truck up for the first time after the rebuild... (Besides a pipe to that vacuum port that is apparently still blocked by gunk. :shake: )


Yup. Throttle pedal linkage. If you're not familiar with these carburettors, the linkage you connect the pedal to isn't solidly connected to the throttle-plate shaft...

It acts as a stop that limits the maximum opening of the throttle plate, and the throttle plate can be anywhere between closed and where the throttle allows it to open to... the governor spring motivates the plate to follow the throttle pedal, and the airflow through the carb tries to push the throttle closed.

So, if you don't have the throttle pedal linkage -- and its attendant return springs -- connected up; the throttle sits as wide as the governor spring will pull it. :eek:
All fun and games, really.

At the end of the day, it still leaks fuel out when the pump first fills the float bowl (but not any more after that, foiling my attempt at figuring out where it's leaking from), and I can't really say it runs any better. Certainly doesn't run any worse, though, so I'm happy enough.

Still can't stand the smell of petrol, though. :D

05-11-16, 10:08 PM
This thread fantastic :) I just spent an hour going through it from the beginning !

06-11-16, 10:25 PM
You'll never get that hour back. :D

Glad to see I'm not boring everyone to death, though; I do try to keep it interesting.

Updates will probably be fairly sparse over the winter months, unfortunately; it's hard to keep the enthusiasm kindled when the wind's blowing so damn cold! I was doing some electrical bits at work today, and was really struggling to keep my little pencil-torch lit to shrink the heatshrink! :shake:

Still have a week's worth of holidays left, though; so I'll probably use all of those on some Sundays, then I can try get some welding done on the truck. The cross-member that makes up the rear structure of the cab really does need to be stripped out and replaced, because the rest of the repairs to the back of the cab build out from that.

09-11-16, 05:51 PM
Master cylinder has arrived. Looks -- and feels -- absolutely marvellous!

This is take two of the replacement master cylinder; the first time I went and collected it, two weeks ago, it turned out to have rusted up and seized solid internally while it was on the shelf.

HTS returned it to their supplier -- who had apparently gotten it from someone else -- who have made it good; they were just as surprised as to the discovery of the corrosion as HTS were, since it looked immaculate externally.

(I, thanks to a warning from a more knowledgeable bod on HMVF, was not so terribly surprised; this is why I partially stripped it to check it after I got it. See, I do listen occasionally! ;) )




I've had the end-cap off, and given the piston a good few experimental shoves; it moves as expected, and signs are reassuring. (It's making all the right noises, shoving air in/out of the right places.)

I also know that it does bolt up to the truck in the exact same place as the old one; having tried it before running it back to HTS the other week.

They actually had it ready to go on Friday, but I had just started my work week; so was unable to pick it up on the Saturday. Now, I feel like I've taken an important step forwards to having working brakes; even though there's still a long journey ahead.

I've read, and re-read, the section of the WSM regarding the brake drums a good few times; and I'm still 50/50 on whether or not I can actually take the drum off without pulling the hub.
The diagram makes it look like the drum is bolted on the back; but the text of the manual reads like the drum is pushed on over the wheel-studs, and retained by the three screws. (And the conical washers for the wheels.)

I've got some material to make a socket to remove the bearing retaining nut, if I have to; but I'm going to try removing all the cone washers and seeing if I can just slip the drum off. The bearings may well have to come out later on, but right now, I'm hoping to get away with not removing the hub.

We shall see...

...but not today. Because I decided to reinforce my axle-stand, in order to prevent possible flatten-age; which, naturally, took long enough that I'd lost all the light to work in.
So, hopefully, tomorrow we shall see. :P

10-11-16, 04:34 PM
Well, you may resume laughing at me. The hub does have to come off to sort the brakes out... :D

The drum came off nice and easily with a little careful persuasion, after removing the cone washers. So, without further ado, here's today's progress, along with the thoughts I was experiencing at the time.

Just after pulling the cone washers. "Oh, this looks promising."

The drum retaining screws came out as if they were still brand new; which was a little strange... Cue the tap tap tapping; and "This is going well!"

"Oh, wow, I might just about be able to do this!"

"Ahaha, this is going great!"

"...Oh. That's why the manual says... right. Hm. In hindsight, this is blindingly obvious." :doh:

On the bright side, it did mean I got to check the condition of that drum -- this is on the corner that was dragging somewhat -- and the shoes.

The drum appears to be in good condition; no grooves (other than one or two that can just about be felt with the thumbnail test), etc. Though I've not measured diameter, runout, and suchforth.

The shoes, on the other hand, have seen better days.

There's lots of grease, gunge, and gunk built up everywhere in there; and the friction material is contaminated, I'd say. However, they should be able to be re-lined. Will look into that once I've got the shoes off all four corners.

In the meantime, I've wound the brake adjuster right in to stop the shoes from dragging on the drum; run a tap through the wheel nuts just to clean the rust and grunge out, slapped the drum back on, and wound the nuts on just a little bit... Next attempt at getting the brakes dismangled will probably be next week.

Inching my way forwards, bit by bit... Looking forward to a finish date of 2025 or so! ;)

10-11-16, 08:33 PM
Loving this thread, thought I would say that incase you thought people weren't interested. :D

10-11-16, 09:10 PM
There's always that nagging feeling when nobody comments, yeah; but I keep plodding on anyway... I know I don't really like commenting on a thread when I don't have anything useful (or funny) to say, and I'm sure I'm not alone in that. :)

Very much appreciated, though!

King Herald
18-11-16, 11:46 AM
I love it! Wish I could score a similar bolide myself. :tup:

18-11-16, 05:20 PM
I'm still here and enjoying things :tup:
Don't know much about rucks that size/age so nothing useful to contribute.
Keep up the good work.

18-11-16, 09:26 PM
Well, not much work has been done since then. I've looked at it a couple of times; but the usual lack of will to sit down in the mud and pull half-shafts, etc out in driving hail... :incheek:

I might try and reassemble the brake servo, or something; because that's indoors and thus only mildly iced over.

(The workshop is a fabulous old place, with huge windows and a high roof... most of the glass is cracked, and it's all single-pane anyway, so it's cold in there. Most often colder inside than it is outside!)

24-11-16, 09:10 PM

I managed to work up the will to do something today, seeing as it was a glorious, sunny day.
It starts with undoing the half-shaft retaining nuts; some of which took the studs out with them. Some of which let out axle oil.



Then pop the half-shaft flange off the hub by means of setting the handle of a breaker bar in the notches; and tapping the head with a hammer to break it loose.


And out she comes!


1/2" drive ratchet for scale. Nice and chunky. :D

Locking nut next. Signs that someone else has been in here before me who also didn't have the right socket...

Came out nice and easily. Flat-faced punch used, this time around; rather than the chisel of the previous attempt.

...which exposes the bearing retaining nut. Punch and some careful -- but firm -- taps motivates that out.

Mmmm, shiny. :D

At this point, the hub was ready to come off. I braced myself to pull really hard, took a firm grip...

And about fell over, nearly dropping the hub on my foot, as it slid off with a nice easy schlorp...


...and a great big splatter of oil.

-- split due to using too many crap pictures of rusty junk :pmsl: --

24-11-16, 09:12 PM
The bearings look, and feel, in great condition; but the seal has clearly had it, and that's what's contaminated the brakes. But, I'm not expecting it to be too difficult to find replacement seals.


There's lots of this on this truck.

Anyway, onwards! A few bolts, and some finagling, and the brake shoes were off...

I'll be taking the drums along when I go to have the shoes relined; then they can be measured and it can be figured out if any work needs to be done on the drums. (The surface of that drum feels great (the minor flash-rust aside); but I don't have the tools needed to check diameter, runout, etc.)

I made an attempt to undo the nuts that hold the expander and brake cylinder together on the rear; but they refused to move, and I was worried about losing light before I had everything back together. (It was about half two at this point...)

So I left those soaking in oil, and started reassembling everything else. Started putting the wheels back on at a little after three; which took a little over half an hour's faffing and farting about, including the use of a fork-lift. Those wheels are heavy; and getting them lined up onto the wheel studs is a pain.

But, by *mumble* past four, it was back on the ground. Which is good, because it was very quickly starting to darken. Drum and shoes stashed in a storage locker, tools away, washed up; then home-time.

The other side is next; whenever I manage to drum (badum-tish) up the enthusiasm to tackle that. (It'll probably be a while; I'll need to turn the truck around first, to make sure I can get the forklift in to put the wheels back on afterwards, or I'll be stuffed. :pmsl: )

06-12-16, 10:41 PM

One sidelight! :happy:

The wires for the other side, and the tail lights, are all connected up at the fusebox end.
Tail light wires are coiled up behind the cab, waiting on me to clean & paint the chassis as well as actually fit some rear lights. O/S sidelight wire is coiled up behind the bumper and is waiting for me to pull it around and connect it to the other sidelight.


Doesn't look so bad with the headlights on, eh?

07-12-16, 02:39 PM
Loving this write up.
Whenever I had to put wheels on my mates tanker I used a steel handled spade, put the wheel near the drum spade under tyre and wiggle the he'll out of it till it would slip on some studs. Not as easy as a forklift but effective enough to do the job when one wasn't handy and needs less space.

08-12-16, 03:44 PM
Yeah, apparently the 'proper' technique is something like that, according to the blokes on HMVF; I didn't have a spade, but I had access to a forklift.

If/When I ever get this thing back on the road, I'll have a spade stowed away somewhere; just seems like it couldn't hurt to have one. :D

08-12-16, 08:52 PM
A comment that often comes up on build threads is that of "I feel nobody is watching/commenting". I think that's because it's hard to keep saying things! This is not a spectacular wacky rod build but a down to earth restoration but you have a style of writing that conjures up images that stir the emotions. Please keep at it.

08-12-16, 09:01 PM
All that's missing is that 'kin 'orrible smell of old hypoid oil, stale fuel and perspiration !

08-12-16, 09:03 PM
I'm really enjoying this thread. It's so different and interesting. All credit to you for braving the cold and wet weather.


08-12-16, 10:45 PM
that 'kin 'orrible smell of old hypoid oil

My sense of smell is all out of whack; that hypoid oil was like perfume to me! :shake: I agree with you about the old fuel, though! Even the fresh stuff is nasty! :D

A comment that often comes up on build threads is that of "I feel nobody is watching/commenting". I think that's because it's hard to keep saying things! This is not a spectacular wacky rod build but a down to earth restoration but you have a style of writing that conjures up images that stir the emotions. Please keep at it.

Yeah, it is a little bit difficult to keep saying things when you're not sure how many people are watching beyond the stage lights. :lol:
Don't worry, I'll be at this for quite some time yet; I've barely even gotten started! :tup: (The cab alone is going to be an ongoing headache for a long time...)

I'm really enjoying this thread. It's so different and interesting. All credit to you for braving the cold and wet weather.

I do a lot less braving of the cold and wet than I really should; if I actually hauled myself out and down to work on it as often as I really should, I'd be a good bit further through this than I am.

But, it's hard to motivate myself to go work on it during my weekend, when I'd rather be recovering from work; and at this time of year, it's dark before I clock off, so there's not really much I can do when my day is finished.

Plus, if I'm forcing myself to work on it, it becomes work; and I've got plenty of that! (First day back at work after two weeks off, tomorrow, and I know I'm stepping into a storm. :eek: )

Neil Davies
15-12-16, 10:23 PM
I haven't logged onto here in years but this has made sure that the site is now bookmarked in this phone! I don't know if you ever go on retro rides, but Frankenhealey over there has been working on a Green Godess that he's turned into a race car transporter. He might be worth contacting with regards to spare parts?

16-12-16, 06:03 AM
As I've said before, loving this thread. The quality of the writing and photos would make it interesting if you were showing how to fold a duvet, let alone rebuilding a nice old hauler.....��

22-12-16, 04:27 PM
I haven't logged onto here in years but this has made sure that the site is now bookmarked in this phone! I don't know if you ever go on retro rides, but Frankenhealey over there has been working on a Green Godess that he's turned into a race car transporter. He might be worth contacting with regards to spare parts?

Aye; I've read that thread from start to end a couple of times! :D Thankfully, parts aren't world-endingly hard to get; these things had such long lives, and the MOD kept parts stocked for so long...

22-12-16, 04:29 PM
The quality of the writing and photos would make it interesting if you were showing how to fold a duvet

I think that'd require me to know how to fold a duvet... :embarrassed: Then again, I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to the truck, and I seem to be managing okay so far. :pmsl:

22-12-16, 08:26 PM
Do you actually fold a duvet or is it just sort of bundled into a cupboard however you can manage to get it in there! I'm waiting for the metal-gluing idiots christmas escapades :D

23-12-16, 09:54 PM
Do you actually fold a duvet or is it just sort of bundled into a cupboard however you can manage to get it in there!

...the latter, mostly!

I'm waiting for the metal-gluing idiots christmas escapades :D

There probably won't be much of any, honestly. It's cold, it's wet, and the workshop is locked up for the giftmas holidays. I might go for a potter around for a little bit, but not sure how much I'd be able to get done. Maybe I'll drive about a bit. :D

08-01-17, 10:07 PM
Didn't do much over giftmas; though I went and pottered about a bit... even brought a mate along!


Then, because it was going so well -- and his last attempt at driving the thing, while I was pushing it back with a forklift (because I ran it out of fuel), ended in a fence -- I let him have a go! :D


I have made a few more adjustments since then, but not run it long enough to check whether or not that's fixed the popping and spitting. I've also dug up a timing light to just double-check the timing, when I get a chance. (And, of course, as soon as I dig the damn thing up; another mate borrows it... But he's fiddling about with sweet little classic Beetle, so I'll allow it.)

It's also possible I have a vacuum leak at the port for the dizzy's vacuum advance,

Thankfully, the days are starting to get longer and I'm beginning to get light at the end of the tunnel work-day; which will do wonders for my will to work on the damn thing.
Unfortunately, the amount of work I've got to do hasn't magically reduced over the holiday season; guess the mechanical fairies were off enjoying themselves, too.

Every time I sit in the cab, I look at all the daylight coming in where there should be metal, and cry a bit; then I think about all the places that look solid, but are actually rusting away from the inside, and I cry a bit more. :lol:

The brakes are still... well, as they were last update. Though I have done some fiddling, faffing, and thinking (dangerous, I know); and I'm fairly sure I know what pieces are missing from the servo control valve, what shapes they need to be, and roughly how it'd work.

I don't, however, have any measurements for how big they should be! Only a minor problem, I know! :D I'm going to have to end up making some parts using the rudimentary tools available to me, then do some figuring for spring sizes and strengths to see if I can -- hopefully -- find them commercially.

As an aside... I did gawp a little bit at a little, old-school, lathe that was up on Gumtree, in Wales, out of someone's garage. It was in pretty rough shape, though; and although it was (VERY!) cheap -- ignoring the 3 hours one-way trip to go get it -- I don't really need to add another project to my already-overloaded stack.

Would be nice to have a lathe, though; so many little bits and pieces that I could get done with one, that are just too vaguely defined to draw up and hand off to someone else. It's a case of "I'll know it when I see it" dimensioning, which is not exactly conducive to outsourcing the machine-work thereof.
Tangent over

Might have to invest in some proper measuring tools, think about the problem a bit harder, and do some more calculating! (Ooh, buy more tools? However shall I persuade myself to do that? :D) Thankfully, none of the dimensions are really critical, but they do determine what size springs I need.

13-01-17, 08:15 PM
Ahem... :embarrassed:

Yes, I do have a vacuum leak from the port for the vacuum advance; but I couldn't find it, because it's ported vacuum, and thus only actually drawing a vacuum when the loud pedal is pressed, and I was pottering about looking for leaks while the engine idled. What a doofus. :D

14-01-17, 06:22 PM
jim,if you want some measiring gear get hold of WELDTECH on the old channel,hes got loads,i got a bore gauge of him in mint condition.

14-01-17, 07:11 PM
jim,if you want some measiring gear get hold of WELDTECH on the old channel,hes got loads,i got a bore gauge of him in mint condition.

I shall bear that in mind, thankee! :tup:

In other news, I have the vacuum port leak plugged; but still have another vacuum leak. Thankfully, this one made itself nice and obvious while I was watching.

I had a bit of a pop and sneeze from the carb, and it not only puffed a little cloud from the venturi, but a great big square smoke ring around the base of the carb, via the gasket at the base. :pmsl:

Guess I'll have to break out the gasket-paper. And maybe a tiny smear of gasket-maker. It'll probably turn out I forgot to put a gasket on one side of the phenolic spacer, I'm good at stuff like that. :shake:

16-01-17, 11:09 PM
Well, I've re-gasketed it. (I had apparently forgotten one gasket, and the one I'd hastily made up had been blown out by all the popping and spitting.)

And now it runs bloody worse! Won't even idle! :grr: Even starting it was a fight, and I eventually got it to splutter along for a bit getting slower and slower until it stopped, then coughed up a huge cloud of petrol vapour... :mooooh:

Had to crank the idle adjust -- well, throttle stop -- in until it'd just chug along, hoping that it'd clear up. It didn't; but it did just keep chugging along until I ran out of patience (and lunch-break.)

Think I need to step back a little, clear my head, and attack this a bit more logically; because, right now, I'm just twiddling things with no idea of what they'll do or whether I'm making it worse. :shake:

17-01-17, 09:13 AM
right now, I'm just twiddling things with no idea of what they'll do or whether I'm making it worse. :shake:

Welcome to my world where chaos reigns and spanners are never where you put them.

17-01-17, 08:07 PM
Well, I've re-gasketed it. (I had apparently forgotten one gasket, and the one I'd hastily made up had been blown out by all the popping and spitting.)

And now it runs bloody worse! Won't even idle! :grr: Even starting it was a fight, and I eventually got it to splutter along for a bit getting slower and slower until it stopped, then coughed up a huge cloud of petrol vapour... :mooooh:

Had to crank the idle adjust -- well, throttle stop -- in until it'd just chug along, hoping that it'd clear up. It didn't; but it did just keep chugging along until I ran out of patience (and lunch-break.)

Think I need to step back a little, clear my head, and attack this a bit more logically; because, right now, I'm just twiddling things with no idea of what they'll do or whether I'm making it worse. :shake:

Well I can tell you that you have made it worse:incheek: twiddling and adjusting is the only way to find out what does what so don't get despondent but take a break and do something else on it that you know you can do and just think about the fuel issue and maybe just go back to basics, check the fuel is flowing ok, the car by is still clean, recheck the timing, especially as that might have altered due to the previous leaks. Chins up oh metal gluing genius

17-01-17, 09:33 PM
Well I can tell you that you have made it worse:incheek:

In hindsight, I should've seen that answer coming! :D

twiddling and adjusting is the only way to find out what does

It'd be nice if my twiddling was having a noticeable effect, so I could see whether I was getting warmer or colder, though. :bah:

Carbs and points are all a bit black magic to me; I'd rather a diesel any day. (I know a lot of people are completely the other way around on that, and that's fine. :) )

On a side(-exit) note:


Oil-burner tangent over

In the end, though, it all comes down to getting the right amount of fuel and air where it needs to be, and getting a spark at the right time; so I just need to work through it methodically.

Could be that I disturbed some trash in the float bowl while moving the carb around to do the gaskets, and it's blocked a jet. (I managed to spill petrol all over myself in the process, because I held the carb on an angle with a full bowl... I'm good at doing stuff like that. :shake:)

But I'm going to start with checking that I'm getting spark at the right time (5°BTDC base timing), because if that's not right; then it doesn't really matter what I adjust on the carb.

Chins up oh metal gluing genius

I am far from a genius! I'm not about to let it beat me just yet, though. Can't be that hard to figure out, it's relatively simple technology… :D

22-01-17, 07:51 PM
Somewhat belatedly...

I went to go futz about with it on Thursday, and check the timing; and managed to get it running fairly nicely after just nipping up the bolts at all the carb sealing surfaces a bit more.

The timing, however, was a palaver all of its own. :shake:

The little steel ball in the flywheel, that marks the 5BTDC, wasn't showing up in the little "window" in the top of the bellhousing like it should've been. (Even after I cleaned it up and added some white paint marker to make it more obvious.)

"No problem", thinks I, "It's obviously a flywheel from before they moved to using the window in the top of the bellhousing". (Which would be a reasonable assumption, if it's a reman engine using an older flywheel.)

I extended my timing light's wires so I can lay under the running truck and look for the timing mark underneath. And it isn't there, either. :grr:

Absolutely no idea where that timing mark is showing up; and to top it all off, either I've run the tank low enough that the pick-up can't reach fuel, or I've got a little bit of an air-leak somewhere so it can't manage to pull fuel up from the level of the tank.

...or, y'know, some bastard's siphoning the tank. :shake: Not ruling that one out just yet.

22-01-17, 08:55 PM
Think I would be making sure that I knew where TDC was on cylinder number one and looking in the "window" to see what I could see, defo mark the flywheel at TDC and then you could work out where 5 btc should be and put a mark there.
Silly thought, you are using the right plug lead to do the timing with, would make a hell of a difference to where the marks would be seen.

26-01-17, 11:17 PM
Well, I've gotten the truck back to running again, so a step in the right direction.

Took it to TDC on No. 1, and marked the flywheel against the notch in the viewing window. It looks like #1TDC is about 10~15 degrees* after the U.C. marking on the flywheel.


* (Total wild-ass guess. not measured it to find out. It's definitely after, though.)

Distributor cap was off while I was doing this, to check that I was definitely coming up on the compression stroke for #1. (Didn't want to take the rocker-cover off and have to re-seal it.)

Well, TDC found and marked, next step was cleaning and re-lubricating the dizzy; after-all, I had the cover off already.


Lots of scraping and picking flakes of trash out of it, and plenty of WD40 later, it was clean; I fitted and gapped the new points... and gave it a try with only the coil lead hooked up.

Nice enough spark from the coil, but ...SPARKS AT THE POINTS?! Apparently my condenser wasn't making good enough contact, so I checked the old points and sure enough, great big blast marks on them. :doh: Wonder if that might be partly responsible for it not running very well?

Old Points


Now, both the modern replacement condensers I got for this -- one that I got a while back, and one that I got along with the new points -- were physically larger than the one that originally came out; so they won't go back in without fouling the points cam.

The way I got around this is I filed a slot in the bottom edge of the dizzy cap to provide clearance for a wire, connected the condenser up and then wedged it between the body of the dizzy and the block to get a ground. Obviously this made good contact at the time, but slowly oxidised until it couldn't make a circuit any more, taking the condenser out of the equation... which results in destroyed points fairly quickly. :doh:

Well, I've gone one step better, this time; I connected a wire between the body of the condenser and the screw that the condenser would originally have been retained by. This way, it'll make much better contact for longer.

The old points, er... kinda cleaned up, but the blast marks were deep. Don't think I'll keep hold of them for anything. Hopefully the improved condenser connection should keep the new points alive for longer; and I'm putting together a transistor ignition box that should improve things further.

Anyway, back to my progress today…

Once I found I had a nice spark from the coil, and no sparking at the points, I refitted the cap, plugs, and leads; put the fuse for the fuel-pump back in, went and got my little hand transfer pump for putting some more fuel from the jerry-can into the truck's tank...

Only to find out the pump was no more. Apparently the internals had become discombobulated; and it was no good at transferring anything. :grr: Shame, because it was so useful up until that point. Tried siphoning fuel out of the can into the tank, and achieved nothing more than splashing petrol over myself.

Had to resort to pulling the hose from the tank to drop it into the can, which worked for just long enough to get sufficient fuel into the carb that I could start the truck and run it for a bit.

I still haven't checked the timing, since I need to finish marking up the flywheel, and it was pitch black by the time I finished. I started work on the truck today at quarter to four.

An hour later, I'd lost enough light that I was having to work by torchlight. Finally finished up with a running truck at about 6pm; with near enough my whole body numb from cold and being piled up in the driver's footwell to work on the dizzy. :shake:

27-01-17, 09:03 PM
What a star, discombobulated, brilliant word:tup:

27-01-17, 11:27 PM
Minor update:
Jinxed myself. Won't bloody start for toffee now. :pmsl:

I have reason to believe I have a fuel issue. Will explore later.

19-02-17, 09:50 PM
I should probably update this a little bit, shouldn't I?

Well, when I left off, I'd gotten stuck on trying to check timing and things like that... because I'd run out of fuel. I got some more fuel into the tank, tightened up all the hose clamps, and -- after a few moments' wait for the pump to prime the system (I really do need a non-return valve in there somewhere.) -- she fired right up.

The timing mark is not showing up in the window, but I did a check of the static timing, and it appears to be significantly advanced from the 1958 stock value of 5° BTDC. Some research into fuel burn characteristics and whatnot has me figuring that it's advanced in order to counter the slower burn rate of modern unleaded fuel; which would otherwise still be burning as it left the combustion chamber, and thus cause damage to the exhaust valve.

Well, it's not pinking, so I'm not worrying too much about where it is for now; but I do want to add some more -- carefully measured -- timing marks to the flywheel so that I can see where the timing is actually at, especially when the vacuum advance kicks in.

Anywho, onwards!

This week -- Wednesday, which was a little unusual for me; I'm usually still asleep well into the afternoon, recovering from the work week -- I decided to go fit those axle seals that I got before Christmas.

Dug up my axle seals, hoiked the wheels off, stared at the mucky hub...



*scrape, scrape*


*scrape, wire-brush*


Looking much better! :D

Hoiked the hub off, hauled it inside, and prepped to fit the new axle seal. Then, because it was clearly going too well, it turned out the seals were the wrong size for the axle. They fit lovely in the hub, though. It's a bit hard to see, but there's a fair sized gap between the seal and the surface the seal should run on.

The internal diameter of those seals is 100mm, and the surface that it should seal on measured out (with very-nears, I was being precise!) at 94mm or so (Which works out as 3.7 inches); so that's a 6mm gap! Not a very good seal there!

That really took the wind out of my sails, so I settled for cleaning & painting the hub.

Needle gun did a lovely job of chipping the paint off, and was a lot quicker than trying to sand it off where the wire wheel couldn't reach. You may also notice there's some drain-holes, which were mostly blocked with grunge; since I knew to be looking out for them this time, I cleared them out with a drill-bit. Then, for the messy bit...


Mmmm, red oxide...

There were a few spots where the oil soaked into the metal was beginning to show its ugly head -- despite how heavily I'd cleaned it with white spirits -- but they were pretty much gone by the second coat.

Then, on the Thursday, I went out to Simply Bearings in Leigh and bothered the guy on the trade counter for a bit trying to find some seals that fit the dimensions I had measured. The Internet is great if you have a part number and a specific thing you're after ordering; but it really does suck when you don't quite know what you're trying to hunt down. Trade counters FTW! :tup:

A day or two later, back in the workshop, time to put some black paint on it! First coat always looks a little bad...


But the second looks a lot better.


Then I just had to refit the bearing, and pound the seal in.

That'll do 'er, I think! :D

I still can't throw that back on just yet, because I want to strip the brake bisector off so I can check that's all free and figure out how screwed the wheel cylinder is. I would really really like for it to only need a set of new seals, but I don't think I'll be that lucky.

Just in case anyone didn't see "bisector" and come out in cold sweats...


Oh, also, I found out I have a deadline! Apparently, there's only two years left on the workshop lease, and then the bulldozers start moving in to flatten the place to make way for houses. :tdown: I'd better get a move on, then.

20-02-17, 07:15 PM
I was wondering if an update was on the cards given the weather is a lot milder now:D

Two years.............skin of your teeth then:lol:

20-02-17, 10:41 PM
I was wondering if an update was on the cards given the weather is a lot milder now:D

Y'know, it does help; seems I get a lot more done when it's not so cold that I freeze to my overalls. I actually had another run of productive moments over the last couple of days, too, despite the drizzle and actual work.

Two years.............skin of your teeth then:lol:

I know! I'll be cutting it really close, at best! :mooooh:

Anyway, I've managed to get the brake cylinder and the bisector off that corner; once I managed to get the mounting nuts -- and the little stop pin -- loose, it came apart with surprising ease. I'll probably order some new nuts for the mounting studs, since the originals are a little corroded and rounded; it was bad enough that I had to hammer the 1/2" spanner down on them very firmly in order to get it to bite.

I'd like to do the same with the stop pin, because that was more of the same but worse; I hammered an 8mm socket down onto that and managed to get enough of a hex back that it came out.

After the stop pin was free, and stored in a safe place (to never be seen again), I did the needful pushing and twisting to unscrew the internal spherical nut that holds the pull-rod into the cylinder. It unscrewed so easily that I honestly thought I'd broken something until it all sprung apart.


Bisector. To be carefully dismantled, cleaned up, and carefully lubricated.


Brake cylinder and handbrake pull-rod. To be carefully dismantled, cleaned up, cried over, etc. This is where I am expecting problems; mostly corrosion of the cylinder bore, etc.

08-03-17, 10:59 AM
Keeping on muddling along, the MegaUpdate™.

The cylinders should be fairly easy to come by as they were fitted to many Bedford applications right through to the 1980s.

Well, that seemed reasonable enough; So I had a look around, a brief search on Ebay while I was writing this seems to have turned up some NOS units that appear to be just the thing. Lockheed L4255-099.)

When re-greasing the bisectors don't use normal lithium chassis grease. With some brands at least you can get a situation where with age, standing or high brake temperatures the oils drop out of the grease and contaminate the linings. The original specification is General Motors 4613-M but I don't have a cross reference for that. You could probably find a grease specifically designed for moving parts of brake assemblies.

And, again, that seemed reasonable enough; so it was something to bear in mind while looking for something proper to grease them with. I haven't managed to find a cross-reference for 4613-M, either, but there should be something suitable out there... :D

So, carrying on... I pulled the bisector apart and gave it a good cleaning. Unfortunately, I got so into the swing of things that I didn't take many pictures. :-X


Crusty old grease! This, and a light coating of surface rust in the bores, made it surprisingly difficult to get things to budge at first; a liberal hosing down with our favourite close-to-hand "maintenance spray" and a bit of firm tapping and pushing got the various bits to slip free, whereupon the good ol' fingerprint-remover was put to use.

I also gently applied a strip of fine emery cloth on a spindle in the drill to the inner bores just to clear off the surface rust; and give everything a quick spritz with light oil to stop it corroding in the workshop before I'd had a chance to paint it.


Went back together quite nicely, and all moves nice and freely; should only need greasing, and a new gasket for the cover-plate. When I got back in, I found this gem waiting for me:

Careful - there are two types. Both are 1 9/16" bore but you need to measure the brake pull rod diameter. 4255-099 fitted 1952 - 1961 has 5/16" pull rod while the later 1961 - 1969 fitment with 3/8" pull rod is 4255-103.

The repair kit is KL71452

Typical! Something like that always rears its head after I get excited and order bits. (Will I ever learn? Probably not! Guess I'm just determined to do everything the hard way! :D) Thankfully, when the NOS brake cylinders turned up -- from Germany, no less -- they turned out to be exactly the ones I needed, and screwed onto the expanders very nicely.





I'm surprised at how fresh the rubber seems.


A far cry from the rusty, grunge-encrusted old one I took off!

Last week, I fitted the hub back onto the axle; the new seal went on a treat (So, obviously, I've done something wrong somewhere... :pmsl: )

I also checked that the brake cylinder screwed onto the bisector, which -- thankfully, as previously mentioned -- it did; and made myself that hub nut spanner I needed.


Which fits really quite nicely... (It should; I took great care with my final filing to dimension, for the bits that really counted. :D As far as I'm concerned, a grinder might be faster at hogging material away, but you just cannot beat a good file.)


And then work consumed the time since then in a bit of a blur; and so I found myself finally getting around to using that hub nut spanner and tightening the nut in accordance with the WSM. Then, slung (Ahahahaha. Wrestled, wiggled, jiggled, twisted, squashed my finger, cursed profusely.) the halfshaft back in, the ... plate... bit... back on, and tightened everything down.

Then, full of enthusiasm, I went and tried the shovel method of putting the wheels back on; and I have to say, it works a treat!


But it does help if you put the conical washers back on before putting the wheels on; or you end up staring at them in your hand, then up at the wheel, then back at the conical washers and muttering "you stupid b*****d!" at yourself...

Ah well. I figure I need the exercise anyway... And I really should paint the end of the halfshaft, and that disc, too; they're letting the rest of the hub down. :D (It'll all have to come back off again when I go to re-fit the brake hardware, so I'll do it then.)

29-03-17, 11:50 AM
Phew, these past few weeks have been a bit of a blur, again. I keep looking at the date-stamps on the photos and going :eek:

A Tuesday, after work, I refitted the NSR hub; put the wheels back on, discovered I'd forgotten to put the tapered washers back on, threw my hands up in the air, and went home.

Wednesday, I pulled the wheels back off, put the tapered washers on, put the wheels back on again; and moved over to attacking the other side. Now, the OSR is the one I made an attempt at attacking last year, and couldn't get the drum off.

Still didn't get the drum off on Wednesday, either. Took the whole hub off with the drum attached; which made it about as heavy and cumbersome to deal with as you might expect. :D
For giggles, I took my camera with me and recorded most of the four-ish hours I was there; though, with the dead space and "sit here hammering on something for half an hour" clipped or sped-up, it's trimmed down to a little under an hour.

(For those who can stomach nearly an hour of inane mumblemouth rambling, cursing, and the sounds of forklifts/angle grinders/things being hit with a hammer; I promise I've removed most of my standing around thinking and scratching my head:


Nearly a week after that (Which was a surprise to me, it felt like a mere couple of days!), I got the drum separated from the hub; and oh boy did that take some effort. With the whole assembly sat on its back -- drum flat on the floor and the hub 'hanging' from the shoulders on the wheel studs -- I pounded on the end of the wheel studs with the 40oz "Persuader" until the thumping changed tone, and the hub dropped free not too long afterwards.


I got complaints from everyone in the canteen on the other side of the building, because I'd filled their afternoon break with heavy thumping sounds. :rofl: I then celebrated by wiring up the other sidelight; because why not!

The hub has been cleaned up...


(Yes, I used spray primer, rather than the nicer brush-on stuff. :-X I wanted to get some primer on it sharp-ish, rather than leave the bare metal alone in the damp air of the workshop for too long.)

...and painted. (First coat, it looks much better after its second.)

It's also gotten a new axle seal; even though it hadn't been leaking, I was already in that far and had the seal... it'd be silly not to! (Of course, now it'll bloody leak! :D)

Out with the old seal, and admiring the bearing.

Then gently, but firmly, seat the new one; as seen behind my fancy new hand-made artisanal wooden mallet. :D

I've also now removed the brake shoes on the OSR, and went on to attack the brake cylinder & expander next. Progress is a thing that actually happens, sometimes! :D

29-03-17, 12:05 PM
Anyway! The OSR expander and brake cylinder came out, and are sitting on the workbench awaiting attention. Gave myself a hard time removing them by forgetting to remove the stop-pin, so the brake cylinder didn't unscrew from the expander... the pull-rod unscrewed from the brake cylinder. Ah well.

Sunday, I set in to be productive! Can't say I was really all that productive, and some pointless cosmetics happened.

It all starts with the hub, which I slung on Saturday night; hub nuts in, torqued, etc.

The obvious next step after that, was to go pressure wash the hub... plate... ...thing, like I commented about in the video; because it was pretty manky. Well, something funny happened when I did that...



Well, it saves me wire-wheeling it to get the paint off, I guess. :eek: No kidding, just the pressure washer with the heater turned on, and the paint just peeled off. So then I had to go get out the paint and make that all nice and shiny again.

And while that was drying, the good idea fairy struck again...

Clearly, I needed to inspect the inside of the axle housing for anything that looked suspicious; and this wasn't merely a case of me forgetting that the bottom two bolts are the drains, and zapping the bolts out starting from the top. :slap:



Mmmm, shiny. :-D

Looks like the cover has seen its fair share of chaos, though.

Especially at this bottom corner! :eek:

(And, from the outside)

Overall, though, it's looking a bit shabby...

...and I already had the paint out, so after a bit of faffing with a wire wheel to strip the surface rust... then running out of battery on the grinder, off to the pressure washer I went!

29-03-17, 12:05 PM
Well, that's interesting. :) Once again, the paint just peeled back in layers; like an onion, but with less crying.

Wonder if anyone might recognise their lettering, several decades later? :-D This was under a layer of black, then four or so layers of green. There's also a layer of white under there, too.

Anyway, I cleaned it up, dried it off and gave it a couple of coats of paint; with a little twist.
I think I'll give that little patch a coat of clear, because I found it interesting enough to keep.

That was where I left it on Sunday, while I waited for the sealant to set. This afternoon, I got around to putting the oil in it; which was a slow, exhausting process... pumping 90-weight oil in until it started to ooze out of the level plug.

Hopefully, I can now return my focus to the brakes; I'd like to have at least the rear brakes working by the end of the year. We'll see how that goes, but it's good to have goals, right? :D

14-04-17, 08:48 PM
I decided not to work, today, due to it being a bank holiday; and, instead, ...went in to work, and spent the day getting rained on while I tinkered with the truck.

Got some new lights! A touch too modern, perhaps? They'll do for now, at least. I was happy with them earlier, now I'm not so sure. (I wonder how long the Rubbolite 360s have been around, though... plenty of decade+ old stuff running around with them on, and still plenty of brand new stuff with them fitted from factory.)


The ones that were on there when I got it were multi-functions made by Butler, that had been fitted on a bracket mounted to the supports for the wings. When I took those off the brackets, I discovered what had been on there previously...


Looks like they were originally mountings for a pair of Lucas L594s.

After that dubious bit of 'productivity', I changed tack again; and managed to get the dizzy out, with lots of careful mallet-work to get it unstuck from its home in the block. I don't seem to have any pictures of the exterior of it before I started cleaning & un-gumming, but the inside was less than spectacular:


Model & part number, just in case anyone was wondering: Delco-Remy D204 7953576

It did clean up nice, and everything moves as it should. Including the vacuum advance, which was looking rather sorry for itself initially.

(Once again, apologies for the lack of pictures, but my hands were utterly filthy from cleaning rust flakes and gunge out of it; so operating my phone was pretty low on my list of priorities.)

I did put a new O-ring on (size 211) while I had it out, and applied some copper anti-seize paste to where it sticks into the block, so that I'd have a chance of being able to adjust it. Some persuasion was required to get it to seat back in the block, but it went in with no major hang-ups, and can be twisted freely now -- with the clamp loosened off -- so I can actually adjust the timing.


(And, yes, I did get it to go back in with the rotor arm pointing in the same direction as when I took it off. :D)

15-04-17, 08:30 PM

16-04-17, 04:27 PM
Wondered what had happened to you. Keep on plodding it's getting there:tup:

21-04-17, 10:01 PM
Still here, still plodding on. :D

I did try to set static timing a couple of days ago, but it was knocking like a skeleton having a wank in a tin can, so I'll have to go through it all again and try to get it right this time. Left the battery on charge overnight, because it was pretty flat from all the cranking trying to get it to fire properly, and it should be good for another set of attempts.

At this point, it feels more like I'm running hard to stay still. :pmsl: I want to get it running again, then I can drive it over to the workshop and start back on attacking the rust; it'd be nice to actually have some structure returned to the cab.

03-05-17, 08:04 PM


*facepalm again*

I think I've gotten to the bottom of my knock, and why the truck's not running very well. Oh, and why the tank always seems to be emptying so quickly!

The pump is overpowering the carb, and it's just gushing fuel straight out of the jets, pouring it into the intake manifold. I went to double-check my timing setting, and it ...sorta struggled into life, knocking a bit, and the knock quieted a little as I adjusted the timing but didn't go away. :grr:

So I went to bar the engine over to re-set static timing, in case I got it horribly wrong; and I got most of a rotation before it stopped dead. Wouldn't turn for love nor money.

More faffing later, I pulled all the spark-plugs and tried on the starter button; it whizzed round, and ...enough petrol squirted out of the plug-holes to completely soak my trouser legs and splatter all over the inside of the driver's door. It was like a full on water-gun.

A look down the carb confirmed there's a river of petrol dribbling from the jets and down into the manifold; so I've gotten a pressure-regulator ordered (like I should've in the first place! :whack: ), and I'll have to do an oil change because I'm sure I've got more fuel in the sump than I have in the tank! :shake:

At least the inside of the engine will be clean, though... :giggle: (Which will help greatly when I need to tear it all apart, I guess. Was at least hoping I could avoid having to do an engine rebuild until I'm not under threat of having to move everything to a new work site.)

08-05-17, 05:47 PM
Well, I got my regulator in, fitted it; and I still have the fuel leakage problem.

Upon advice of a co-worker, I pulled the float bowl off to check that the float wasn't stuck. It wasn't, but I found the problem.

Let's have a wee game of Spot the Difference (Followed -- and this is foreshadowing -- by a game of Hide and Seek.):

Venturi side of the emulsion block after the carb rebuild:

Venturi side of the emulsion block this afternoon:

Yes, that screw has gone where you think it's gone. :grr: Obviously I skipped the loctite on that one; :shake: and it's the one that needs it the most, because it sticks through into the venturi, whereas the others butt up against the outer wall of the venturi and can't go anywhere.

I shall reserve judgement on how fucked I am, until I poke my inspection camera into the engine's orifices and have a look. The combustion chambers are huge, so the screw might just be rattling around harmlessly inside there, but I'm not that lucky.

Does explain why fuel's been pissing straight into the engine, though...

08-05-17, 06:28 PM
Hopefully it is a small oooops rather than a big oh ---k. fingers crossed for you.

08-05-17, 08:45 PM
Here's hoping. I know it's a low-compression engine, though, and the combustion chambers are quite large; so while I'm not getting my hopes up too high, I'm not sinking into despair just yet.

09-05-17, 08:01 AM
If the engine has run with that inside it, then it's possibly passed through and into the exhaust.

10-05-17, 04:16 PM
If the engine has run with that inside it, then it's possibly passed through and into the exhaust.

That's most likely what's happened. I'm just concerned about potential for damage while it was in there; definitely better odds of getting away with it than a higher-compression engine, though, that's for sure.

Anyway, camera poked down plug-holes has come up inconclusive. I don't have any horrible noises when I crank the engine over, though, so I'm not going to bump "engine tear-down" up the list of priorities just yet.
For the time being, I'll plan on towing the truck to the workshop with the forklift when I need to work on it.

Today also saw some more rot removal.

The repair/reinforcement around the nearside end of the rear cab crossmember, which was full of rust-flakes.
(A healthy, iron-rich way to start the day; best enjoyed as part of a balanced diet, etc.)

Surprisingly, the battery-box didn't drop out of the truck when I removed that bit.

Still a little overwhelming, but I'm building a picture in my head of how it's supposed to go back together, as I strip the layers back. One piece at a time... :D

02-07-17, 10:25 PM
Okay, I've been a bit lousy at keeping this thread updated. (As I may have mentioned, the main thread for this is over on the HMVF; and I even suck at keeping that one updated, too!)

Anyway, the screw that went missing from the carburettor turns out to be a bit of an oddball. M4x0.75, which is non-standard but apparently used to be popular in French stuff. It's also seemingly made of unobtanium; you can get taps for it, but it's remarkably difficult to find the screws themselves.

And, yes, I was very surprised by it being a metric thread-form on the inside of the carb. I checked it four times, removed glasses, checked it again, held it up to the light, squinted, peered a bit closer, tried all the other thread gauges, definitely metric.

(I started with the UNF/UNC gauges (60°), and they fit the thread profile but not the pitch, Whitform (55°) was right out because it didn't fit the thread profile, and that just left Metric (60°); and the 0.75 gauge dropped in perfectly. Go figure.)

So I used a tiny bit of precision roughness: re-tapped the hole in the carb to be standard M4 (M4x0.70), and applied a dab of thread-locker to all the screws, just in case. (Which both seals them, and stops them escaping! :D)

Unfortunately, I didn't get as lucky as I'd hoped when it came to the engine surviving having the original screw go through it.


Naturally, I spot this after I put 15 litres of fresh oil in it. :shake: (I drained 20+ very very watery litres out of the sump, and it stunk so badly of petrol that you could smell it from six feet away. The used-oil waste IBC still stunk of petrol a week after I'd dumped the waste in there, too! :pmsl: On the bright side, if I occasionally turn the engine over until I build oil pressure, that should keep that clean oil circulating and hopefully prevent corrosion building up.)

Optimistically hoping that the valve was just being held open by the screw, I went to strip the manifolds off and have a poke around. Started with the two nuts that held the downpipe on; one came off like it was still factory fresh, the other just straight up snapped off. Naturally!


More finagling and cussing later, the carb was off.


Then, the big fight; all the studs & nuts holding the manifolds on...


...which came out amazingly easily; for which I am very very glad!

And it turns out, this lot isn't as heavy as you'd first think; for a cast aluminium intake, and three-piece cast-iron exhaust manifold, all as one big lump...

Unfortunately, some prodding and probing around with a length of ally tig-rod revealed no obstruction holding the valve open; so either the valve is bent, or just straight up seized in the valve-guide.

With the careful application of a little force (jump-cut to levering and pounding on with a wooden mallet), I got the valve to move upwards from being coil-bound and a bit closer to being closed, but it just had that graunchy scraping feeling of picking up in the bore of the valve-guide. :tdown:

Well, an engine rebuild was already on the todo list; but now I can't even limp it back and forth to the workshop under its own power. (Well, I can, if I pull the pushrods for that cylinder and re-fit the manifolds. :D )

I don't really want to get into an engine tear-down/rebuild right at this point in time; I already have enough parts strewn around everywhere, so keeping it as one lump stops me from losing bits. (Plus, if I tear into it, then I'm going to want to have other bits done "while I'm in there"; so it'll only escalate into a monster of a project by itself... :shake: Wonder if someone has a set of pistons to boost compression of a Bedford 300, just sat around doing nothing? :D)

Oh, for a giggle... I finally noticed the casting number in the head. This engine isn't 6.5:1 compression like I first thought. It's the early head casting, so it's 6.1:1 instead. (And the timing ball isn't 5°, it's 8°; so all my new stamped degree markings are wrong... Ah well. Guess I'll need to just get a printed version made up that I can stick on, that should be a bit easier to see.)

In my vague list of priorities, the engine comes after getting the brakes put back together and working again; since they're both major projects in and of themselves.

I did also turn my attention to the process of putting some structural integrity back in the cab, and that starts with preparation to firstly remove some of that integrity. Namely, the wasted rear cross-member of the cab structure, since it'll be easier (He says... :shake: ) to completely cut that out and replace with fresh new metal that's properly treated to prevent rust, than to try trim back to 'good' metal and patch it back out again.

Now, that's decidedly difficult to do when the cab is still supported by a mount that's part of that cross-member; so I've unbolted the cab-mount at the rear, jacked the cab up very slightly, and it's now sat on a length of 1-1/4" steel box section that just takes the weight off the bit I need to remove. Amusingly, this seems to have stabilised the cab a little bit; it no longer wants to tip sideways off its mountings when I'm swinging off the grab-handle on the nearside!

To Be Continued

02-07-17, 10:37 PM
Recently, though, I made up some brackets to hold a set of lights at the top of the jib; so I can have a high-mounted set of tail, brake, and indicator lights as well as the normal ones.

I also went out and snagged myself a nice little diesel genny from a nice bloke on the bay of E, so I can run my power-tools out in the yard, which means I can get more done.
Fewer excuses for laziness! Way too easy to persuade myself out of working on it when it's "oh, I have to unpack an entire compound of wagons, then tow it over to the workshop, and that takes at least an hour... then I have to do all that in reverse when I want to put it away again." each time I want to work on it.

(The genny got modded. Because of course it did. It now has a straight-pipe exhaust stack with a flap on the top. :D Didn't seem to make it any louder, either, which was amusing. And yes, the jaunty angle is clearly for exhaust flow reasons; not because I welded it on the piss. :incheek: )

Now, to set the scene for these antics...

Welder held up on the truck by a length of chain wrapped around the jib, and through the handle on the welder, locked in place with a thick cable-tie. (I really need to get myself some extension leads to make up for the really short ones that come with it.)

And when I said antics, I meant it!

Now, I was having so much fun that I forgot to take a picture of the original brackets (and the remains of the smashed lights that were on top of them), or how they were welded on; but here's what was left after cutting, hammering, and grinding flat:


And new brackets welded on; not quite in the same place. The originals were mounted at the upper edge of that double-flange in the foreground.


Far from the prettiest welding I've ever done, but more than sufficient for a light bracket on top of a jib. Should be good for another 30 years or so, eh?


Lights were fitted to them today, but I don't have any decent pictures of that, since it's backed up so close to the wall.

03-07-17, 08:15 AM
Nice to see you are still ploughing on, bugger about the valve. At least no one will steal the welder up there:incheek:

03-07-17, 05:25 PM
Definitely makes it a little harder to grab and run away with, that's for sure! :D

03-07-17, 06:02 PM
I admire your stamina!

03-07-17, 09:14 PM
I admire your stamina!

It's mostly because I don't get a whole lot done in one go. :pmsl: Not so much a marathon, as a gentle stroll! Keeps me busy, anyway.

30-08-17, 12:16 PM
Some indicators happened!


Indicator switch fitted, but not yet wired, since I forgot just how easily the outer part of the column rotates; might have to come up with some other solution for mounting the indicator switch where I want it to be. I'll burn that bridge when I get to it.


I also managed to put last weekend, and this bank holiday Monday, to good use; extracting the wheel cylinder from the front, and temporarily reassembling everything on that corner so I could pinch my axle stand for doing the rears.

First little job of the day, separate the drum from the hub, to make it easier to work on the hub.

I believe the marketing phrase to use here is "* Some sequences shortened." Plenty of use of the 2-1/2 lb hammer involved shifting that.

Drum stowed in a side-locker, along with the others. All going according to plan so far.

Some finagling with sockets, and spanners, and a little use of the small hammer of precision adjustment managed to extract the banjo bolt feed into the brake cylinder; and a thing that looked like a valve sort of thing...


Turns out to be just some sort of offset adaptor to go from the 1/2-20 flexible line, to the banjo bolt.


And it has a hollow socket type of arrangement that sits over one of the studs holding the brake cylinder on.


Anyway, moving on... bits 'fell off'. Once again taking some persuading to do so. It's almost like these parts haven't been removed in quite some time!

The whole arrangement sits like so:

No pictures of the rest of the day, but it was mostly slinging the hub back on and refitting the bearing lock-nuts, then hefting the wheel and spacer into place; so I could take the jack and stand out from under the front, lift the rear, and remove those wheels.

And around rolled the bank holiday Monday, whereupon I didn't get a great deal of pictures, but there wasn't much to take a picture of; other than my frustrated tongue-stuck-out-in-concentration expression while I tried to juggle the expander and brake cylinder together on the axle, and hold them against spring pressure, while trying to rotate the bolt (it was originally a pair of studs with nuts, but I figured bolts would be easier. More fool me.) with a spare finger.

...Obviously, I was already short of hands enough as it was, so there are no pictures of my expression. Which is probably for the best.

However, I did get this nice snap of the results of a few hours' progress in the morning.


Some cleaning of the axle required! :surprised:

Then I went to re-fit the offside wheels to do the little jackstand shuffle across to the nearside and repeat the process; and broke my shovel trying to lift the outer wheel on. :mad:
However, someone was smiling on me (for some reason. Maybe because they were laughing so hard at me hitting myself in the face with the handle of the shovel as it snapped off? :shake: ), because there turned out to be a length of beat up aluminium tube laying around that was the perfect size to hammer over the socket on the shovel.


It's now a lightweight racing shovel. :pmsl:

The other side was very much like the first, but the other way around. Also, since I had discovered that I didn't need to take the hub off to fit the expander, I didn't jack it anywhere near as high, so I should have a lot less trouble refitting the wheels. Of course, now I've said that... :embarrassed:

01-09-17, 09:10 AM
Your still plodding which is more than I have done in the past few months, absolutely bugger all, things just still seem to get in the way of working on the rod.

Keep going.:tup:

07-09-17, 09:13 PM
Update on getting the other wheels on: 5 minutes to sling the wheels on and get enough wheelnuts on that they won't fall off again. I think I'm getting better at this. :D Clearly helped by the lightweight racing shovel.

I've also gotten a NOS front wheel cylinder in, from Cyprus; and two new hub seals, from Leigh.

The already shambolic pace will slow a bit more due to the changing of the season, I'm sure. Oh, and also because work is moving to a unit across the way, which means even further to walk with tools and stuff, since the (gorgeous, fantastically old-school, albeit leaky) building currently occupied is scheduled to be demolished.

I'll get there, though.

08-09-17, 05:10 AM
Even though small please keep them coming though. Nicely written and always interesting.

27-12-17, 07:19 PM
Not a great deal to report, since my last post, unfortunately. Work has been causing me a lot of stress, which significantly reduces my desire to be anywhere near the damn place to work on it... ("You can't be stressed, you only work five days a week!")

And it's not helped that we've moved to a different unit on the estate while the old one is being demolished, with the easy route (300 ft or so) blocked off by demolition-company fencing, turning it into about a third of a mile walk between toolbox and truck. (Which isn't so bad, except for when you're on your twentieth trip after forgetting something...)

However, I've also spent the last two weeks on holiday in Canada, which has done wonders for stress reduction. ^_^ It's not exactly done wonders for my wallet, though, but I have enough bits to be getting on with while the balance recovers somewhat.

Between my last post:

I took the driver's door off and started repairs of where the mirror arm was torn off.

Still some tweaking to do to take a dip out where the spreader plate I added on the inside (so that the load where that mirror mounts to the door-skin, is spread across a bit more area.) has pulled the sheet metal in somewhat; and a little at the top of the patch-piece where the return has gotten a little misshapen. Nothing some quality time with a hammer and some implements of leverage can't fix, so long as I can find somewhere to lever from.

I also need to de-rust/treat, and paint, the inside of the door; It's getting closer to where it should be, though.


MIG'd by the tack-tack-tack method. There were a few blow-throughs. :D


Done with stick. A few holes where I was using 1.6mm rods that are mostly flux and spite; turned out to be easier to use 2.5mm rods on the same power setting... probably because they were putting more metal down so could actually build it up a bit more.



Not the prettiest, especially where trying to build up gaps, but it's solid now. Once again putting the age-old phrase to work: A grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't.

Et wollah. :tup: Painted with primer just to stop it corroding before I can get the inside sorted, and all the bracing rebuilt. Don't want to use filler just yet, in case I need to use a bit of prying and 'fitting' to make it line up again, which would probably just cause it to crack off.

The Bedford got towed to a different yard, which brings it a bit closer to the workshop. Downside -- because of course there's one -- being that the yard is smaller, so it'll be buried behind more stuff.

Got quite a bit of attention, rolling slowly around the front of the industrial estate with hazards flashing, which was nice. My brother, normally stuck on 2-wheels, was properly chuffed with himself after parking the truck in the given space considering the biggest thing he'd driven previously (only for a short duration... and off the public highway, of course, yer 'onour) was a VW Beetle.

I got some wire-brushing and painting (well, primer, but it counts) done around the vicinity of the rear towing hitch. I was planning on continuing that when I got back, but the snow made me reconsider. 9_9

I also uncovered a grease nipple while wire-wheeling the towing hitch, which was nice. Furthermore, I have discovered that someone who previously owned the truck does not appear to believe in the holding power of bolts...

Yup, welded round! There's also a few nuts that have been welded, and a few spots where the Harvey Frost gear has been welded to the chassis.


A couple of hours of wire-brushing and painting later, and it started to look a lot better. Surprising how long these things seem to take when the wind is determined to blow through you, rather than around you. Oh, and when someone keeps cutting your extension lead powering the battery charger for the cordless tools... (I swear, if someone made a TV documentary about my workplace, nobody would believe it wasn't all made up for the cameras. :shake:)

Another fun discovery was that the hitch appears to have perhaps gotten rather worn out at one point, and repaired

Something tells me this truck may not have lived an easy life.

I've gotten a 25ft length of cupro-nickel brake pipe in, and some 1/2-20 brake pipe nuts, so I can start on making up brake pipes. My flaring tool seems just about capable of handling the pipe, though I had to do some modification to it, and it's a bit finicky about alignment.

(I got it lent to me from a co-worker who then later disappeared. He'd never used it either; which is no surprise, because it wasn't possible to actually put the damn thing together!

The big pointy flaring bit was screwed in backwards -- point upwards -- and there was no way to screw it into the horseshoe clamp bit the right way round; because the pointy end was too wide to fit through the bottom of the clamp, and the thread was too long to allow me to feed it in on an angle... Cue grinder, and welder. Daft.)

28-12-17, 09:58 AM
Great to see this thread up and running again.....:tup:

28-12-17, 01:55 PM
Not so much running as limping; but it's still progress!

24-02-18, 09:05 PM
h'okay, I've been neglecting this thread a little -- not that there's been a massive lot of progress, but even so -- so here's a catch-up update:

Some weldering happened with the driver's door:


Done with stick. A few holes were where I was using 1.6mm rods that are mostly flux and spite, which meant longer arc times to deposit metal; turned out to be easier to use 2.5mm rods on the same power setting... probably because they were putting more metal down so could actually build it up quicker, and reduce the amount of heat I put in.

While welding with MIG is quicker, it's the set-up time that gets me. Sometimes it's just easier to set up my little suitcase stick set than it is to hunt down a working MIG welder that isn't in use, chase down a 3-phase extension (or two... or three... depending on how far away the nearest socket is) and perhaps a Y-splitter, and get it all hooked up before someone runs away with the welder.


Since then, the door was re-re-welded in places (Apparently, my inner reinforcement bar was not stuck where I thought it had stuck, so broke free and pulled a few little holes in the door skin in the process. Sigh.), and the tab for the bottom of the mirror arm has been welded on.

I've also treated half of the inner surfaces of the door with rust converter, so I have to follow that up to the other side, and then go back in with some paint. Then I can put that back together, and re-fit it to the truck, which looks a little silly without it.

The generator in the background is foreshadowing. The arc-air rods, I really really hope aren't! :eek:

Then, some more chopping & hacking ensued... This time, with video evidence! I don't think I'll be making another video this way again; it's a pseudo timelapse involving lots of sped up footage, which was very time consuming and tedious to edit together.

Nevertheless, here it is:


Now closing in on the present-day...
Thursday last week, I rolled out the generator and the big grinder ...and the little grinder when the big one turned out to be big enough to be even more cumbersome, but not big enough to have sufficient reach to overcome the cumbersomenosity.

...and then the little grinder started turning out to be too cumbersome, so I finally managed to dredge up a sufficiently circular Tuit, to head out to Nuts (our local Hobbyweld supplier) and rent a bottle of oxygen for the baby cutting-torch.

Here's where I left off after that week:


So some fire had to happen, which brought progress along with it.

And that progress means I am much closer to being able to put metal back in; which is good, because as it is, I feel more like the scrap-man with how much cutting I'm doing!

Those two outings resulted in this scrap pile:

I'm getting closer and closer to having that new bit of box section welded in place; whereupon I can see what space I have left to wiggle a rubber body-mount into, in place of the original, and will have a place to start building the floor back out from. Thankfully, the floor is pretty solid for the most part; around the rear and side of the passenger seat is where it's the worst, but there's enough of it left that I can work out to it.

I'll claw this back, one piece at a time! Might not be quick, nor particularly pretty; but it'll be solid. I can always come back and re-do the uglier parts in the future, when I've gotten better at it and improved my skill. But, for now, "ugly & solid" is better than "gaping hole"... or "pile of dust where there used to be a truck"... or "bean tins that used to be Bedford"

25-02-18, 03:57 PM
Slow and steady....you'll get there one day :tup:

25-02-18, 06:05 PM
Nice to see things are still progressing, rather you than me I must say, Keep on going :tup:

26-02-18, 11:07 AM
Slow and steady....you'll get there one day :tup:

I hope so! I really really hope so. :D

Nice to see things are still progressing, rather you than me I must say, Keep on going :tup:

Yeah, it's kinda overwhelming if I step back; but as long as I just think of it as one little job, then another little job, then another... it's not so bad.

26-02-18, 06:28 PM
That is definitely the right way to go about it, I do the opposite and then don't get anything done:tdown:

14-06-18, 06:08 PM
In some startling news, I did some work the other day! (Well, it was last week, now. I only ever seem to end up working on this thing every other week or so, at best. :confused: ) It involved cooking for a little bit in the sun.


A little bit of drilling and metal-sticking later, I had this; which was sprayed with weld-through primer.


And that fine bit of engineering fits...

...here! This surprisingly only a little jiggery-pokery involved in getting it to fit; mostly in shortening the weld-through tab on the near-side until it fit with the not-exactly-stock battery box.

And, a major milestone reached today, with the first metal going back in, in a long time.


Still quite a bit more welding to do, particularly on the near-side where it's only tacked into place for now due to access being slightly restricted by cabling; however, with a bit more welding on the offside, I got it to the point I could lift the cab up off the chassis by jacking it by the end of the new cross-member, which is a good sign.

This was the result of about 4 or so hours, including about an hour spent trying to get the generator to start, because the battery was flat and I didn't have any jump-leads. Hence the wobbly-looking lash-up with the truck battery. :D However, progress was made.

From here, there's:

a couple other little weld-through plates to make that finish sandwiching the original cab frame, and join in to the new cross-member
Fully weld up the back of the cab frame.
Start bridging the gap between the new cross-member, and the cab back
Put some metal into the floor, and reduce some of the excess ventilation :D

14-06-18, 07:11 PM
Nice when new stuff goes in, rather than cutting old stuff out:tup:

26-06-18, 11:37 PM
Nice when new stuff goes in, rather than cutting old stuff out:tup:

Definitely. Starts to feel a lot less like doing the scrap-man's job the hard way.

Hoping to roll on out and get a bit more done tomorrow, after not getting a great lot done last week, when I stuck on an Überbräcket at the back for another twirly light amongst some other puttering about

The Überbräcket, named because it's only holding up a twirly light the same as the one on the roof, yet I made it out of a piece of 10mm (3/8" in old money. Yes, okay, I know it's not quite; but there's only about a 0.5mm difference, so it's close e-bloody-nough! :D) steel that I had laying around that was the right size, and severely welded it. It's not bloody coming off without taking the crane with it, I think!

Our victim, after a little marking out:

After some weldinating:


It feels surprisingly high up; but that plate is just about eye level if you're stood on the bed of the truck. Well, as long as you're short, like me.

And with the twirly stuck on it... Not too worried about it not really being visible from the left hand side, it's mostly just to act as a 'repeater' to the rear of the truck, where the jib blocks the view to the one on the roof.

Anyway, the lesson here is: if you see a chunk of something getting chucked in the scrap bin that looks useful, snag it and put it in your overflowing box of "Might be useful, that" bits. ;)

Some other trinkets while I was re-exploring the side lockers...

How old d'ya reckon this is? :D

Fairly sure it's older than I am, anyway. And it has not aged terribly well...

Looks pretty cool, though.

On more practical matters, I think I have a solution to the brake booster valve problem. Now, since I haven't really had much luck finding out what sort of bits were supposed to be in there, and not really wanting to go through a bunch of R&D to come up with new internals, I've decided to take another route.

I'm taking an off-the-shelf part and using it... as it's intended to be. :D I got myself a foot brake valve/treadle valve from a DAF CF (But they're all pretty much using the same, or very similar, parts). It's basically the equivalent of a brake master cylinder, but for air brakes.

The intent is to mount it up near the brake pedal, such that I can fit a little push-rod, much like the one in the truck that the valve comes off, and plumb it so that the primary circuit applies on the hydraulic brake servo, and the secondary circuit runs back to the trailer suzie connections.

Two nails, one hammer; or something like that. Should give me proper control over the brake servo, while also letting me have trailer brakes without needing a reaction valve (Normally fitted to tractors, to let hydraulic brakes control air-braked trailers. They've usually also got completely the wrong type of seals in them, and apparently don't get along well with DOT4 brake fluid. Oh, and they're usually eye-wateringly expensive.)

Some measuring will be required to figure out travel, pushrod-length, where to put the valve, etc etc. Hopefully it doesn't consume the space that is tentatively earmarked for the air-horns; because those are also fairly critical items!

To be continued...

27-06-18, 10:03 AM
More progress. Looking forward to the video of it finished :D

27-06-18, 11:09 AM
Continuing on...

While I was fiddling about last week, I also did some playing about with a modern truck wheel that was laying about nearby. (I think it belonged to the bus company that was here before.)

Not so keen on the stock silver, but gloss black would look good.



As good as it looks, there's some slight clearance issues. Some faffing about with measuring offsets, widths, etc. ensues. Currently trying to work out what I can get away with, wheel-wise, that lets me fit a fairly standard modern tyre.

This test wheel is a 22.5x7.50 (shod with an 11R22.5 tyre), and the norm appears to be 22.5x8.25. The problem comes with trying to find tyres that fit, since most are meant to go on an 8.25" wide wheel. Oh, and that the offset puts the inner lip of the wheel hard up against the track rod end, which is less than ideal.


I don't think I want that to self-clearance... :confused: (And yes, I know the track rod end needs a new boot! :D)

I have a total of 250mm from the mounting face on the hub, to the track rod end interference; so I shall have to hunt down another wheel, ideally without tyre, and do some more measuring. And some more thinking. And a bit more measuring... and some cursing...

While I'm a long way off having this beastie drivable on the road, it's nice to have some sort of idea of what parts I'll need. (Definitely going to go with an off/on M+S all-position on all corners, though. Something nice and knobbly. I've also run the numbers for max gross weight, and it looks like I can get away easily with running single wheels on the rear axle, which makes life simpler. Also cheaper!)

Definitely looking forward to getting it finished, though that's a long way off yet.

29-06-18, 08:39 PM
And the latest update video, wherein there is some weldening, I look like Darth Vader (black helmet, with a hideous blotchy pink thing inside :D), and some painting.


Yes, my shiny dome got sunburnt. Yes, it hurts. Yes, I should've worn a hat. :bah:

05-10-18, 11:26 PM
Roight! As expected, I've been dismal at keeping this thread updated; since the last update:


Some air tanks happened!

All of the material, barring the tank straps themselves, was originally destined for scrap; so I think I've done quite nicely with it. :D

The two tanks came off a pair of DAFs that were being chopped up by a local haulage firm (because it's apparently cheaper to buy a used truck, strip it down and sell/scrap what's left over, than to buy spare parts. Madness.) and are a bit overkill for the needs of the RL, but I'll certainly have no shortage of air! The channel was originally a single piece of box section out of the scrap skip that was just about the right length, then sliced longways; and the tanks are protected from rubbing on the edges of the bracket by short lengths of cut rubber air-hose left over from a job. Total cost to me: £5 for a tank drain valve that then got pinched for another job, so I'll have to buy another one.

Anyway, the bracket:
(Sack trolley not included.)

It fits in this nice convenient space underneath the body...

I said, It fits in this nice convenient space

5 hours, a mild concussion, and lots of swearing later the truck has 60 litres of new air tank. The bracket is still a firm press-fit at the moment and I need to weld it in for peace of mind.

Next on the list was to start putting a rear cab mount back in…


This is a pair of universal engine/gearbox mounts and a bit of plate that bolts to the original cab mount; this was all going rather well, it was just the upper mount where it all fell to bits. Apparently my measurements weren't quite right, because...


The holes are meant to line up with the studs from the top of the mounts, and the upright flange was intended to go up against the box section to spread the load a little bit. It does go on backwards just fine, so some trimming and go from there...


I think my tape measure is out of calibration, that must be what it is! 

Anyway, a week later...


The back-side was only stitch-welded, to leave me room to tighten the nuts down (and it was tight even as it was; with the flange of the nut touching the box section the whole way down!)
If I were smarter, I'dve started the leftmost stitch weld from where the tack was, so it'd consume that ugly blob. Nevermind, eh?

Looks less bad with some paint on it, and it's not going anywhere.

I'm not going to worry in the slightest about those welds. They only need to be stronger than the rubber of the mounts, or the two M10 bolts that hold it down to the chassis. And with that front edge fully welded -- a real pain, involving having to be curled up like a cat halfway across the engine cover and passenger's seat -- it should be plenty strong enough.

Some gussets were considered, but I've since decided it'll be fine. I did find myself staring up at the cab roof and wondering what the hell I'd gotten myself into. 2 years and 10 months, now, and I've barely scratched the surface.

05-10-18, 11:43 PM
(Now we're only up to last month's updates, so getting closer!)

I went to go change the oil in the air compressor, and was scratching my head over the filler/dipstick.


It's very definitely meant to be there in the top of that round bit that sticks up. But it looks like it's met with an unpleasant end. (Item No. 19 in the drawing.)


Looks like it's been broken for quite some time, eh? Keep that in mind for later...

-- SIDE NOTE RE: Unpleasant ends --

And, on the note of unfortunate ends, the whole truck very nearly met one a couple of weeks back. I hooked up the battery as normal so that I could tinker some with the wiring (and make another attempt at getting the engine to fire, just to see if it's possible to limp it to the workshop & back.), I'd just gotten into the driver's seat and had my hand on the key when the oil pressure warning light started to glow dimly, getting brighter and brighter.

"Well, that's weird", thinks I, then I start to hear crackling and the cab fills up with smoke. The cab is covered with a tarpaulin, so I'm at this point inside a big plastic bag with the smoke from burning wiring being blown in from the open passenger's door.

It's amazing just how long it feels like it takes to undo a battery terminal while the truck's trying to set itself on fire! Anyway, it turns out that the flexible metal conduit from around the battery positive cable had scooted up at some point until it was just barely touching the ring terminal and it was grounding out on the chassis. It wasn't making a good enough contact to cause noticeable sparks when I connected the negative lead to the battery, but enough that the conduit got pretty hot!

Once it cooled down enough to touch, I pulled it out and the battery cable inside the conduit was looking pretty ugly.



Thankfully, damage was fairly minimal. One length of battery cable needed to be replaced, and some other wires in the vicinity need(ed) to be repaired because the insulation had been burned off sections of them.


So, while I pondered on the air compressor oil fill situation, I thought I'd spend a bit of time pulling apart the NOS front brake cylinders I got off the internet auction site that we all know and loathe...

The first one I popped open looked to be the oldest, going off the appearance of the box, and all the innards are covered in a sticky substance that may at once point have been a lubricant or preservative. There's also something funny about one of those cup seals...


Turned out, that cup-seal was harbouring a decades-old hitch-hiker!


All the seals -- in both cylinders -- feel nearly brand new and look in fantastic condition. I still should pay the seals shop a visit, though, and get some new ones; it just makes sense, really...

And now, the cylinder bore... This is the worst of the two, and the bulk of it is the slightly congealed sticky substance. There was some very slight discolouration of the bore in the middle where the seals would ride in use, but it disappeared after a quick brush through with the brake cylinder hone. There's no pitting or rust, so these have turned out fantastic.


And then, because I needed to hear it spit and crackle, to get some enthusiasm back...



06-10-18, 12:27 AM
So, back to the compressor...


It's currently on my workbench, in about a thousand pieces. I washed the sump out with petrol to try break up the worst of the sludge, followed by filling it with new oil just to try flush out the remnants of petrol and water.
Teardown followed a few days later:



Not pretty, but cleaned up pretty easily and there's no scoring in the bores. The check-valves all seem to work quite nicely, and I cleaned out the passageways as best as I could. One of the bolts holding the inlet manifold down has a pretty gacked thread, so I've got a tap on order to chase the threads in the head just to make sure, and I'll get some new bolts on order. (1/4" UNF, so nothing particularly exotic.)

I also had to break up the remains of the filler cap, since it seemed to have bonded itself into the threads and was stubbornly refusing to rotate. (I'd drilled two holes through it so that I could use circlip pliers to try unwind it. It bent the circlip pliers, then the edges of the holes started to break up.) Very careful -- almost surgical -- chipping with a thin chisel, and picks... 



I've now got a tap for chasing the thread in that, and then I can have a new filler cap made, that I can fit the original dip-stick into.

The wash-out with petrol, and following oil, helped dislodge the worst of the grot from where it was lurking, and down into the sump...

(notice, also, the shards of plastic from the filler cap. It really did not want to come easily.)


Sludge vs. Industrial Jetwash. Jetwash wins. :D

Now that I could actually touch it without instantly becoming covered in slime, a closer inspection and some dismantling revealed that the oil pump was clogged; though it appeared to be with crumbs of plastic from the filler-cap, so that must've been after my precision extraction process.


The relief valve, however, was stuck open by a much older looking deposit; which suggests that there's been no oil pressure at all? Uhoh.


It's a pretty clever little mechanism, this oil pump. The shaft of the eccentric is the pump piston, and it's hollow -- with a little brass orifice in the end -- so that the pressurised oil squirts up it and is forced into the crankshaft; the pressure relief is a flat plate over a drilling, held down by two little screws with springs, such that once the pressure reaches its limit, it lifts the plate and squirts out. Nice piece of design and engineering.

Unfortunately, a combination of that contaminated oil and a mostly-bypassing oil pump has not done the crankshaft or con-rods any good. I ran out of time today to investigate further, but there is discolouration on the crank and the big ends of both rods are pretty scored.


No great surprises there, then. I also cracked open the Drawer of Excessive Precision* for my micrometers and did a quick bit of measuring. The rod journals seem to be within the realm of cleaning up sufficiently with a bit of polishing; the big end bearings having taken the brunt of the damage as expected, being white metal.

The machinists precision G-clamps gave me some numbers (I'm majority metric, so bear with me! ) :

№1 rod journal: 22.22mm, №1 big end (vertical, i.e. in line with the rod): 22.5mm. Clearance of 0.28mm, or ~11thou.

№2 rod journal: 22.3mm, №2 big end: 22.45mm. Clearance of ~0.15mm, or a midges under 6thou.


Big ends are just a touch out of spec. :D I'll double-check what the crankshaft mics out to after I've polished the journals, I can live with it being a hair undersized so long as I can get the rods to match it. I still need to finish tearing the compressor down fully, measuring the bores and whatnot, but so far it looks otherwise to be pretty good. I'll just keep on keeping on, for now.

(* Above the Drawer of Insufficient Precision, which houses all my hammers and other tools of "Fit, damn you")

06-10-18, 12:36 AM
And on another sneaky side-note, I've gotten a little Megasquirt-compatible ECU all fitted up in an enclosure, and most (forgot the idle control valve wires. D'oh.) of the wires connected up to a plug, so that little side project is looking promising.

Going to get some measurements of the inlet and exhaust manifold flanges, and have some of those laser cut so I can make up a fuel-injection manifold and a set of headers. Y'know, because this wasn't a big enough pain in the behind already! :D

I know it's not ideal to be trying to figure out fuel injection on an already wounded engine, but I figure that if I can at least get all the supporting bits figured out and put together, then it should go quite nicely once the engine's eventually rebuilt.

09-10-18, 08:21 AM
Love the write up's on this.

Looking at the progress and thinking "not a lot has been done and there is loads to do" is my biggest issue and I then get put off doing stuff, so best I was given advice is take each item as a small project and eventually it will all come together.:tup:

15-10-18, 06:44 PM
Oh, it'll all come together, slowly but surely. :D I've done a few other little bits and bats since the last update, mostly just putting wiring back together post-'fire' and connecting the beacons up so they now work on the switch. Oh, and some little brackets and whatnot so that can mount a second gauge along with a hazard switch; now the hazard lights work on a switch, rather than having to twist wires together.


I still need to tweak the bracket for the indicator switch, because it doesn't fit where I first planned it, but that's not the end of the world. All the wiring will be tidied up when it's closer to being completed.

The compressor's been broken down a bit further, and I've got a bearing separator on order so that I can pull the ball-bearings off the compressor crankshaft. And I've also gotten a little bit more welding done, mostly just adding some support to the battery tray to stiffen things up.


The air-tank carrier was also tacked in place, so that it can be welded fully at a later date. It's not much fun working in a mud-pit, though.


It's not the worst I've had to work in, but it's still distinctly less than pleasant when you're slopping and sliding around trying to move through the work area; it's too much like site-work at my day-job! Also, I keep catching myself on the legs of those metal screens all the time! :grr:

Currently looking for another workshop nearby that I can rent, or something; because working out in the back of a car-park is no fun at all.

16-10-18, 04:53 AM
You have my total respect!