View Full Version : T time

02-04-17, 10:25 PM
Well I did say I might start a thread on my T so here is what happened to start with.

I have been into hot rods, street rods and customs all my adult life, done various cars, engine swaps, kit cars etc. but never actually had a hot rod or street rod ( as an aside I was told that my T is NOT a hot rod but very firmly told it was a STREET ROD, I don't give a damn so will from now on call it a street rod:D).

When I was at college learning all things automotive my two best mates built hotrods, one a blown V6 powered Jago 5 window (it's still around to this day), and the other one built a T which he still owns and has gone from a 4 pot engine to a SBC via a v6 essex, from a two seater to a four when the family arrived.

Fast forward a lot of years and 4 kids later and I decided to build my own house, got the walls all up and was saving for the roof, all was going well.

Then I went to the NSRA swap meet at the Essex arena with a mate of mine and whilst fannying around like you do we saw a photo of a part built T for sale, it was a Nick Butler chassis with a 15 T body. My mate said there you go you always wanted one buy that and I just told him to sod off but did take a photo of the advert as you do, well that was on the Sunday afternoon, by Sunday evening I had arranged to view the car on the Monday evening. I had a little talk with the wife and she came along with me.

When we turned up the guy selling the T showed us loads of bits and pieces that he had in the house and then walked us to the garage, on that short walk the wife said "you've already decided to buy this haven't you?" and I nodded, well that was the money for the roof buggered but the wife was not too displeased.

So what did I buy? A compete rolling chassis with chromed jag IRS, 15x15 rear wheels and Mickey Thompson tyres, front torsion bar front suspension, the body of course, headlamps, headlamp lenses, four complete leather hides and masses of small bits and pieces.

The car is already a cut and shut job as I was speaking to Mr. Butler at a show one day and told him I had bought a pile of bits of his and he filled me in on some of the history.
Originally the car was to be built using a Rover V8 (215ci for our american friends:D) and auto box, then after it was started the guy wanted it lengthening as he was over six feet tall (funnily enough so am I:D) so the chassis and body were extended by 6 inches, then the guy stated he now wanted a small block chevy engine and auto box, so more fabrication ensued, then nothing. Not sure how long this stayed as it was but eventually the guy I bought it from got his hands on it and started works but due to seriously ill health he then sold it on to me.

So what now? well it is now getting a Big Block Mopar engine (383) and auto box in it so a bit more fabrication of engine mounts and gearbox mounts has been done. I have had the engine and box mounted and now need to get the propshaft sorted, after this the gearbox will need a rebuild as I know that when in the other car it was not very well, bit of slipping by all accounts, the engine however has only done about 1000 miles since a full rebuild, although many years ago, so hopefully that should be ok. Some of the chrome work is now in a sorry state but I will sort that when it is nearer to completion.

I have removed the floor from the body as it was a bit crap and was still designed for the rover engine and box so the trans tunnel is way too small, I'm currently having a pulley machined to my design to fit on the diff pinion to run a small chassis mounted alternator (thank you Uncle fad), I have managed to get an electric water pump as well which should mean no belts or pulley's on the engine and I will be doing away with the dizzy by going megajolt system. Induction will be twin holley's on a high rise (took bloody ages to get that bit) with tall K&N filters.

Timescale................there is none but hoping to get the engine and box all sorted this year and fired up so fingers crossed.

Some pictures will follow but it's late and I've got to sort things out for tomorrow so that's all for now.

Oh just as an aside the roof of the house still isn't finished and we are four years further down the line but the wife is still happy (or so she say's:lol:)

malamute john
03-04-17, 04:35 AM
Thanx for posting ; all sounds good - especially the Mrs! :D

hafta show my ignorance tho - no distributor? I know new cars have that system, but on an old 383? And if yer gonna go that hi-tech, how about injectors, albeit ones that either look like carbs or like old Enderles? Just curious...

03-04-17, 04:35 AM
Great stuff. Consider using the alternator pulley on the prop as a disk for the handbrake. I used a go cart calliper (cable operated) to get rid of the nasty Jag one. Just a thought. I will delete the pic once you have seen it so I dont mess up your thread.


03-04-17, 10:35 AM
http://static.fjcdn.com/gifs/Mfw+it+s+started+snowing+in+my+town_0c2639_4234025 .gif


03-04-17, 08:06 PM
Don't you going and getting excited Mr. Stiff, it began back in about 1982ish with me buying a 27t body from a couple down Chichester way, that was in my possession for a fair few years and then a friend of mine was at a low ebb and so I gave him the T body along with a small block chrysler 318 engine and auto box so he had something to do and keep him out of trouble, it did the trick but he never finished it and sold it on to someone, who knows what happened to it in the end as we don't:lol:

Gerry, I can't nick all your ideas:D however the hand brake mechanism is already sorted before I got it.


There are two handbrake calipers that are operated by the two arms that drop down from the cross bar and there is a single rod that goes from what will be either a floor mounted handbrake lever or an under dash umbrella system, I've not decided as yet but will probably go with whatever gives the most space in the tub for occupants.

Here is a closer photo of the mechanism on one side (hopefully)


03-04-17, 08:26 PM
Well now viewing the last post I realise I must take better photo's because I know how the system works but looking at the first photo and not knowing I still wouldn't know:tdown:

This next photo will probably be crap at explaining what I mean as well but here goes.

There are a number of things that have been done that I'm not entirely happy with, some are just bolts that I feel are not long enough for the nyloc nuts that are on them, not a biggie but is something that will cost when it shouldn't, other bits are down to fabrication, now this is a little unfair I would suggest as the original concept was for a small not very powerful Rover V8 which as well all know weighs in at not much more than a 2l pinto Ford engine and now the power plant is a Mopar 383 iron block heavy bugger with at least twice the BHP and certainly way more torque and this brings me to the diff torque straps or anti climb straps, they just seem too shallow on this particular set up.
I need to fabricate a mounting for the alternator anyway so I was thinking of adding a steel support from one side of the chassis to the other and relocate the torque straps at a greater vertical angle to this crossmember at the sametime working out a way of mounting the alternator to it as well. Hopefully this cross member won't be seen from the rear as it will be at the same level as the diff cross member.

Hopefully shows the shallow angle of the straps.

03-04-17, 08:54 PM
Thanx for posting ; all sounds good - especially the Mrs! :D

hafta show my ignorance tho - no distributor? I know new cars have that system, but on an old 383? And if yer gonna go that hi-tech, how about injectors, albeit ones that either look like carbs or like old Enderles? Just curious...

MJ, the reason for no dizzy is because on the Mopar it is at the front and as I have taken everything else away such as the alternator, mechanical fan, power steering, aircon and the water pump this just sticks up above the radiator and is sort of in your face. The megajolt system is a VERY basic system (needs to be for me to have any chance of actually making it work:lol:) It consists of a controller (magic box affair) that is given signals as to exactly where the crank is via a sensor mounted just above a 36-1 wheel or trigger wheel, you then need an EDIS module for an 8 cylinder engine (I bought one off ebay.com a while back) and then you need two Ford coil packs (ford fiesta, Mondeo etc). The coil packs fire the plugs and the particular system I have bought works with vacuum as well rather than a throttle position sensor.
My idea if it will work is to put the coil packs somewhere hidden from view as best as possible and take the leads to the plugs up under the headers so again hopefully no leads in view for the most part, the magic box of tricks will be on the inside of the front bulkhead. This of course is all in my head at the moment but apart from the trigger wheel and the coil packs everything else is here and those bits are easy to get. The only other thing to do is cut the dizzy shaft at the clamp level and form a cap so that the oil drive still works. Could be very expensive if I forget the oil pump drive:tdown:

It really isn't very hi-tech and as for the holley's, I've had a matched pair kicking around for years just waiting for me to actually do something with them so it's an economic's thing. (remember I still need a roof for the house:lol:)

03-04-17, 09:21 PM
Been running Megajolt for 6 years:tup:

04-04-17, 05:28 AM
Agree; too shallow. Don't mount them at 45* 45*, they bend. If you want I can throw a pic up of mine.

04-04-17, 08:07 AM
Please do. :tup:

05-04-17, 08:27 PM
Uncle Fad, in your opinion, and if the photo is clear enough, is this torque converter re-usable? A little worried about the area the front seal would sit.


05-04-17, 08:27 PM
Bugger, I'll get a better photo tomorrow.

06-04-17, 08:40 AM
The nose of the TC needs to be very smooth. If there is anything but faint lines from where the seal rubs then its a no go. Any grooves/ridges will leak. If there is very faint marking clean it up with 1200 grit.

In the old days they used to finish the nose with jewellers rouge. Let me know if it needs a rebuild.

The torque straps.

The top mounts of mine are a little more complicated than normal due to the angle of the bottom mount shafts, as I wanted them to be at 90* to the strap when it was installed. Because of this I could not just slide the strap in... if you see what I mean. The top mounts have an additional pin on the back of them that registers in the chassis so they don't move with just a single bolt location. They are about 65* and 65*.

Also I have only one lock nut at the top end. The bottom end is screwed right into the hemi joint until its tight. All the adjustment is done on the top hemi and then clamped off with the back nut. This way I don't have a nut on show at the bottom, just a rod going into the hemi keeping it neat and tidy.





21-04-17, 08:55 PM
Not much progress as I am waiting for bits and bobs to arrive. I have started on the rear torque straps, I've ground off the original mounting points from the chassis rails and will be putting a box section between the rails with tabs for the torque straps to bolt to, this will increase the angle of the straps to something I'm happier with, hopefully the new tube will be hidden from view by the framework that holds the diff in place.
At the same time I'm going to install the alternator, the nice shiny pulley has been machined and I can now make up some brackets to fit the alternator to the inside of the nearside frame rail, funnily enough in exactly the same place that the nearside torque strap was mounted so all good moving the things.:tup:

Nearside torque strap mounting point.

9" grinder and taddarrr!

I know, it's just like magic and yes I'm waiting on some steel that should have arrived a day or so ago:tdown:

Anyway, looks like the torque converter is buggered.

So Uncle Fad, I know we have had this discussion some years ago but what stall converter would you recommend? Engine should give out about 325hp and 425lb ft at 2800rpm in standard trim but now it has what we think is a mild cam but with a tunnel ram and twin holley's, so the figures could be upped a small amount but doubt it will have increased much to be honest. The rear tyres are 33" tall and the diff will probably be a 2.88 affair at a later date. Bear in mind that this was also the ratio in a Jensen interceptor that had this engine and it did 0-60 times of around 7 seconds but weighed 3500lbs and I should be nearly half that weight or thereabouts. The box is a torqueflight 727 that will need a rebuild at some point.

More to follow when things arrive.

22-04-17, 12:07 AM
I had 500 rpm extra stall on mine (with about 425 BHP and a TH350). This was what our converter builder suggested. Too much (which is not uncommon) and the thing is always reving on pull away.

And YES that nose is shot. No matter a new one can be welded in at the same time as the stall is done. 95% sure the pump bush is in a mess as well.

07-05-17, 09:12 PM
Small update, The torque converter and box are on hold at the moment as there is the faintest of chances that a manual box might be available, very faint chance at the moment and if it doesn't come off then the auto will be rebuilt and fitted for good.

Today I managed a few moments in the garage for a change.

Nice shiney pulley all bolted up (Ok I know the propshaft is missing but we can't have everything in life:incheek:)


Bracket for the main alternator mount welded in, took longer than anticipated as the frame rails start to splay out at this point so not parallel, welding not my best but oh boy not my worst either:lol:

I mounted the alternator to the bracket and then went out to my stash of drive belts to see if any of them would fit and what would you know I had three exactly the same size that fit perfectly so at least I know I have a couple of spares and don't have to go trying to find a supplier in a few years down the road.
Me. "have you got an alternator belt 860mm long by 13.5mm wide?"
Guy behind the counter or on the phone. "have you got a registration number for the vehicle?"
Me. "No"
Guy behind the counter or on the phone. "Sorry can't help you"

Whatever happened to storemen/women that actually knew what fitted what or how to read part numbers and do a cross reference :beuj:

So belt fitted and all lines up spot on for a change. Still need to add an adjuster bar to the alternator but will wait till I have the crossmember that the torque straps will be fitted to incase it lines up and I can tap off that, if not then a nice curvy adjuster will be made and another bracket fitted to the same area as the alternator mounting brackets. Also the handbrake lever will miss everything even at full tension on the alternator, this might sound strange to mention but the lever that will operate the handbrake has to pass within the belt circle, it does mean that to change the belt I will have to disconnect the handbrake lever but hey that's only two bolts, you should try changing one on a diesel PT cruiser:tdown:

View from the top, ignore the nut and bolt used, they will be replaced with nice shiny ones when I know everything works.

Plonked the body back on to see what hit or missed and to my surprise the alternator is just about half an inch proud of where the floor used to be and where the battery box was. This is good news as the battery box is going and a smaller battery will be used, probably an odyssey one. The battery box always annoyed me as it sat below the line of the chassis rail so now on that side at least nothing will be hanging down.

Closer image of the protrusion into the seating area, which is no big deal.

That's all for now, collecting a few more bits and waiting on a couple of people about the manual trans so fingers crossed.

08-05-17, 05:17 AM
Looking great. Keeps the engine tidy. I was lucky as I had an 'inner' chassis rail I could drop the adjuster from. I loved doing all this stuff, it was an exercise in packaging...

3 pedals in a T can be very crowded around the feet!!!!


26-06-17, 06:01 PM
Over the past weeks I have managed to get into do a bit now and then, not a lot but we are in Tesco territory now so here goes.

First off was to weld in a piece of 25 x 50 x 3 rectangular steel from one chassis rail to the other about 170mm in front of the rear cross member.

Then it was time to get the cardboard out and make some templates.



Nice and simple that only took a few minutes:tup:

Then it was time to make the items in 6mm steel plate.


I could have made it straight sided as it will never get seen but thought no, I will give it some curves and make it look a little interesting or at least less boring, so trusty hacksaw in hand and various files we ended up with this.


After way too long with the hacksaw and files we end up with another one whoopie


Oh for a plasma cutter, would have taken about ten minutes:tdown:

Time then stood still for a while as I needed to bend the brackets at a particular angle so the the torque straps would be at the correct angles. This meant finding a new source for a propane bottle as all the local ones have now stopped doing the one I had:crazy: Why is it that everything I have ends up either out of stock or discontinued............ahhhh because I keep stuff too long apparently:tdown:

So new gas bottle sourced and a load of heating up and some not so gentle hammering butchery (sorry gentle precise persuasion) and we end up with both brackets bent to suit, or so I thought. No I didn't manage to bend them both in the same direction (been there and done that one) but when I tacked them in position it was obvious more filing and a bit more bending was required, so off they came and the file and angle grinder were set to good use to ensure there was a bit more clearance and then they were tacked back on.
Bugger!!! they still needed tweeking on the angle so decided to see how good my welding was and welded the buggers on, then got the big stillies out to "gently" move the angle slightly, woohooo the welds held out great and the angles are now good so fitted the torque straps.
I'm happier with the angles than before I started and also happier that they will work if the diff does try to climb.




Still need to weld the brackets and the cross member underside but as my welding is not too bad (notice they have been ground down so you can't see the mess) I didn't want to weld upside down so these will be done when the chassis has all the items fitted and I strip it down to paint.
Other than that not much has progressed but have ordered a new aluminium timing cover and sourced a good slip yoke, although the yoke is the peened over type of fitting rather than a circlip so it will either have to be modified or the propshaft people will have to have the necessary to fit a peened over joint.

09-10-17, 04:41 AM
Nice stuff, thanks for sharing this.

26-12-17, 08:12 PM
Well no movement on anything rod related until today and then I had to fit it in with relatives visiting so only a couple of hours.

Last time I was hoping to get a manual box for this thing but it got scuppered and then was back on again and then scuppered again so I decided sod it auto is the way forward and then bugger me just as the rebuild kit turned up another chance occured and then was gone again, so auto it is for sure.

Today I decided to strip the box down, I have never done an autobox so armed with video's from you tube I got going.

Take no notice of the state of the shed, it's always like that:D

Started with this

and finished up with a mass of oil and this

Hopefully over the next couple of days I will get time to clean everything up and start to reassemble things, but my daughters TT needs the clutch slave cylinder doing and that is a gear box out job, made all the more difficult because it's a quattro and it's outside. The fact that it is outside may be an advantage to the rebuild as if it continues to rain then I'm not doing the audi:tup:

27-12-17, 06:49 PM
It Snowed so a bit more time on the box ensued. The guy who had this box in his car said that it used to slip when changing gear and didn't "feel right", well as I am now an "expert":lol: I think I may have found the answer.


The rear clutch pack that is activated in all forward gears is FUBAR'd, each pack should have a steel plate then a friction plate then another steel plate then another friction plate etc. well this lot may as well have been all steel plates for what is left of any of the friction surfaces.

This is for a comparison.

So this is actually good news and I believe that they all fried very quickly and most of the debris is still confined to the clutch drum as I am having to actually chisel the gear off the inside of the drum, just to get the wavy snap ring out was a saga and took over 5 minutes to do.

I have started to clean up the other bits and there is very little in the way of crud anywhere else, I am not splitting the main valve body as I have no idea as to what is in there (no instruction or build manual around) and so it will be fingers crossed that with a new set of seals, bushes, clutch packs, filter and oil all will be well. The issue I will have is that it will be sometime before I know if I have actually put the thing back together correctly as I don't envisage that I will have the car back together for a long time going by the current speed of build:tdown:

I will also be stalled on the box rebuild as I have decided against fitting the new bushes myself as I am fairly sure that I will bugger them up if I do, not alot of finesse with a big hammer and some blunt instruments so I will find an engineering shop to do them for me, however I doubt any will be working till the new year but will give it ago tomorrow just in case.

27-12-17, 07:45 PM
If all the friction material is gone, I will guarantee the valve body needs to come apart and be cleaned. If you are worried about it, bring it over to me at my place and we can sort it together. (not oo far to come). You are correct, not knowing what has been done to it in the past, makes the standard rebuild vids and manuals useless and there is a sequence of taking them apart when you have no idea if the check balls are in their standard positions. Also springs can vary and the sep plat may have been drilled or or blocked off at certain points.

Bushes souldn't be a problem. Get them straight in the bore, use a brass or hardwood drift and tap, making sure they are in line. Just tap and look to see they are going in straight. Once they are a 1/3 in and you have logged how to hit them, drive them home. Its really isn't rocket science.

28-12-17, 06:20 PM
Cheers for that Uncle Fad I might take you up on the offer but at the moment I just want to get it back to as near one piece as I can, the valve body could be one of the last bits to be done.

The reason I was hesitant on doing the bushes is because the first one I looked at was a big one, (as in long, the tailshaft bush) it was a bugger to remove and was a tight fit for installing and that is when I thought I would be better off getting someone else with the right gear to do it for me, but after Uncle Fads words I thought bugger it, they are just more delicate outer bearings of a sort so I went for it. There are 7 bushes to replace and apart from the tailshaft bush they all went in according to plan, the tailshaft bush was ok but I did need to file a slight burr off before the prop yolk would slip in ok. So all in all not too bad an effort.

However, the rebuild will now have to wait as I assumed (WRONGLY) that a full rebuild kit would include everything that could wear out but no it doesn't and so I will have to locate some, what look to me like, large thrust washers and a spacer ring. The latter can be either plastic or metal and as my one came out in bits I would assume it was the plastic one:tdown:

While I am at it I may as well get new fibro washers as well as they too are not included:beuj:

This will give me a bit of time to clean the outer casing and maybe get it coated who knows.

28-12-17, 06:56 PM
Call Vanmatics in Hayes. Tell them G sent you from STA. Mark will sort you out or I will sort him. You can tell him that from me... Ha Ha Ha,



29-12-17, 07:59 PM
Cheers Uncle fad, think they are still on their hols as no answer so will try again next week.:tup:

29-12-17, 08:44 PM
Do you know the stall speed (approx) of your converter, because they can stall them for you if its to low.

29-12-17, 09:35 PM
I can't find the article that I saw that stated the Jensen had a stall speed of around 1800. The rest of the specification was:

Total weight 3600lbs
BHP 325 @ 4600 rpm
Torque 425lb/ft @ 2800 rpm

The figures are Gross by all accounts but whatever it propelled the Jensen from 0-60 in 6.5 seconds.

I was looking at getting a new converter from the states as there is one that has a stall speed of between 2000 - 2400 delivered including duties for just over £200
This is what they say:
This Performance torque converter works great in performance street / strip modified small and big block engines with a stall speed of approximately 2000 to 2400 RPM depending on application. Converter is approx. 12" in diameter with a 10" flexplate bolt pattern.

Welded not Furnace Brazed. Contrary to popular belief, furnace brazing is not the best way to adhere torque converter components to together. Just like a Teflon coated pan, after some time the furnace brazing will erode away and ruin the stators and all other rotating parts in your transmission.

Industrial Bearings - No Light Duty Needle Bearings. Needle bearings are good, but not great. Industrial bearings give these converters the ability to handle not hundreds, but thousands of pounds of torque. Thatís much better then the higher priced alternative converters.

Aircraft Aluminum Washers - NO FIBER. Assault converters utilize an aircraft quality aluminum washer instead of those old fiber washers that other companies use. This allows for more horsepower and torque capabilities.

NO Automation - ALL HAND BUILT. Assault torque converters are hand built and tested to ensure that you are getting the best converter money can buy. No automated process can ensure that you will get that kind of quality. Made here in the USA.

As you know the front nose on my original converter is goosed so I was thinking that to change the stall speed and fit a new nose would probably cost more than the one advertised.

30-12-17, 12:11 AM
For £200.00 I would take their hand off, but don't forget to price up the delivery and taxes BEFORE you buy it. I had about 500 rpm put on mine to stop it dragging the car forward at rest. Did this for a know UK Hot rod a couple of years ago and the guy was delighted that he no longer got leg cramp holding it at a stop.

05-01-18, 05:21 PM
Spoke to Mark at Vanmatics today and eventually he found someone that knew these old boxes, it wasn't sounding too hopeful to start with as I need a plastic spacer ring and he couldn't find it in the catalogues he had, but there was someone there that had rebuilt one a while back and eventually they rang back and would you believe it they had one in stock plus a kit of the thrust bearings too. Should be with me on Monday.

I didn't threaten him with you sorting him out uncle fad, thanks for the information and the price wasn't bad either:tup:

05-01-18, 07:32 PM
Who did he recommend?

05-01-18, 09:54 PM
Who did he recommend?

If you mean who rebuilt a 727 a while back I think it was someone who works at Vanmatics but I'm not 100% on that. It didn't take them too long to sort it out but this is a box they probably don't get asked about much nowadays, they are probably more into the modern 4,5,6,7,8 or 9 speed auto's but as you know they can sort just about anything and as I said the price was good as well.

16-03-18, 09:21 PM
Well I have been buggering around not achieving much as usual, ripped the floor completely out of the T in readiness of putting the engine and box in and creating a new floor, so I need to get the box built back up. To do this I need to spray the casings, to do that I need to get the compressor going, to do that I need a new pulley for the new compressor motor, plus need paint etc. etc.

So new pulley fitted:tup: Compressor working but not as I remember it, but working, so go get the spray gun BUGGER BUGGER and BUGGER again, forgot to clean it out the last time I used it, which was about four years ago!!!!! so spent the best part of three hours stripping the gun down and cleaning it within an inch of it's life. Already etch primed the casings with rattle can stuff last week, and had delivered some 2k primer filler, so gave the casings a quick squirt only for the compressor to cut out as it would appear the new 2hp motor is not man enough to run the damn thing:tdown: Looks like I will need to get a new compressor, this one is about twenty years old and was originally a three phase unit, it's just more expense that is not budgeted for heyho I suppose.

The up shot of all this drivel is that the box is still in pieces, just hope that when I do get the casings done I can remember where all the bits go:lol:

On top of all that I was trying to place all the bits on the chassis such as battery and trans cooler only to find the trans cooler I bought was too long, so have had to order a shorter version:tdown:

Then there was the issue I was not happy with regards the front suspension, the rose joints looked wrong to me and it finally dawned on me what the issue was, I need to fit misalignment washers so that the body of the rose joint doesn't touch the mounting point, not a big issue in the grand scheme of things, except the previous "builder" mounted them with nice chromed allen bolts and locking nuts that were JUST long enough, now with adding the misalignment washers and also a large washer on the other side incase the joint broke means that all new allen bolts will need to be sourced. (found a place in the states that does chromed ones so need to make my list and see what the cost of shipping is going to be).

So an update of sorts but no progress:lol:

17-03-18, 08:49 PM
Keep pluggin' on it'll be finished one day :)

01-04-18, 09:55 PM
A bit more messing in the garage today, floor still missing but located and bought a new oil cooler that will fit nicely.

Was trying to make sure everything that was needed would fit before making the floor, and the battery became an issue. I didn't want it hanging down below the body, eventually the only place I could find was between the passenger and driver at about elbow level, it will be one of those Odyssey batteries so no fumes or leakage issues. Tried laying it flat under the floor but then it clashed with everything, oil cooler, or the brake master cylinders, gearbox, propshaft and even the hand brake mechanism, was relieved when I did find somewhere to put it inside.

Will post some photo's when I actually start to put things in rather than ripping things out:lol:

12-04-18, 11:32 PM
This is great, look forward to updates.

14-04-18, 06:54 PM
Cheers, updates are slow for one thing or another.

The latest delay is the battery that I was assured would be here yesterday and it hasn't turned up today either, so Monday is the new Friday by all accounts.:tdown:

I have had the radiator re-cored along with the outlet and inlets moved to the positions I wanted, however the finish of the job does leave a little to be desired which I was not expecting as the guy that did it makes rads for all sorts of really old vehicles and he is no spring chicken, thought he would have a bit more pride in his finished work. I will have to do a bit of tidying up. The cores are fine and I'm sure it will work ok but I was a little disappointed especially given the cost.

So again very little progress but still moving forwards.:tup:

17-04-18, 06:59 PM
Still no battery:tdown: and on other news numpty boy here ordered the wrong size NPT fittings for the heater hoses and the gearbox fittings:beuj: means that I now have a few fittings spare and I have to order the CORRECT ones doh!!!

16-11-18, 07:14 PM
Still nothing to show really, haven't actually done anything constructive to the thing, however I did get this earlier today.


Might go and take a look at it tomorrow just to make sure it hasn't got bored and buggered off somewhere all on it's own:lol:

18-11-18, 05:18 PM
So you couldn't quite get the gearbox to met the back axle :D

18-11-18, 06:36 PM
I suppose I should have thought about lengthening the output shaft by 250mm to meet the diff but thought a propshaft might be easier to get made:incheek:

I did go and look at the thing today, funnily enough it hadn't moved. Anyway I checked that the prop fitted ok so that was a plus, now just need to get some longer bolts for the diff flange as there is now a pulley thickness to accommodate so the original bolts are too short.

I then decided to clear everything out that was not "T" related except for the bike, managed to get a bit of working space just in time for the cold weather, we will just have to see if any progress does actually get made:mooooh:

02-12-18, 08:03 PM
Managed to get in the place again today and thought it was a bit cold soooooooo!!!!!


I decided to wrap the gearbox in foam. There may be a plan or it could just be madness only time will tell:D

02-12-18, 10:27 PM
Despite what people say, fibre glass will stick to parcel tape like a bitch. BTDT

03-12-18, 05:51 PM
Now that maybe disappointing, but this is not the part that will be covered, still got to cover this first then more evenly layered parcel tape plus maybe some wax if I don't get bored by then:crazy:

My last attempts at making a mould ended up in tears and a very large sledgehammer which I eventually destroyed everything I did in pure anger and that was done by the book but obviously the wrong book:lol:

This time it will be the suck it and see approach and hopefully no sledgehammers will be used in anger:tup: still a long way to go, need to add another piece of steel to the chassis beforer I can contenplate doing the floor for real.

27-01-19, 04:27 PM
Well just to show that Phil is not the only one arsing about in the cold here is an update.

I needed to add a steel support for the eventual seat, so welded two 6mm steel plates to the chassis, drilled and tapped for a couple of 8mm bolts on each side then welded two more 6mm steel plates to the seat support legs and drilled holes to suit.
I then used some better tape to sort of secure the foam wrap around the gearbox.

Now I could start to fit the temporary flooring.

Once the flooring was secure I was able to use body filler to get a smoother more uniform shape.

The piece of ply is to create a flat area for the B&M shifter to be bolted to. Now ran out of body filler so the remaining "smoothing" will have to wait till supplies arrive (Halfrauds are way too expensive for large quantities of the goop).

SOOOOOOO, with a little bit of time on my hands I decided to have a go at sorting out my inlet manifold.
I started with a standard high rise twin carb manifold.
A bit of poetic licence here as this is the front which is staying as is but gives you an idea as to what has been done at the rear.
I had a piece of aluminium welded over the end and deeper than required like so, I then made a cardboard template up and eventually cut the extended piece of aluminium to shape so that the rear of the manifold sits within the valley gasket.

Still need to do more filing and preping but the end result should be a relatively flat vertical surface. I'm looking at fitting the speedo in there along with LED's for fuel, temperature, indicators, ignition light and main beam indicator. Only time will tell if it will work or be a complete cock up:D

So next bit of works should be continue with the filling and sanding of the floor in readiness for glassfibre and then sort out a similar "floor" for the rear of the compartrment that will need to be removeable to get to brake reservoirs and maybe the battery as it looks possible to fit it in there depending on the actual seat formation. If not the battery will be behind the seat back rest (I know it fits there so not a big deal really).

Hopefully more time will be spent doing stuff if none of the daily drivers give me anymore grief (big trucks LPG system is in bits at the moment as well:tdown:

28-01-19, 04:01 PM
Progress :tup::tup::tup:
Glad its not just me out in the cold.
I used East Coast Fiberglass for my matt and resin.

28-01-19, 04:30 PM
One thing I did when I prepared my trans etc for the floor was to sit in the t and note where my right foot would rest. I found that by reducing the thickness of the covering at the point where my foot was against the transmission to the thinness possible section gave me a few millimetres more room.

i know it doesn't sound like much but it made a whole lot of difference.

28-01-19, 07:18 PM
Phil, I have used them before as well, but have a load of glassfibre stuff left over from another thing I was working on, hopefully the resin hasn't gone tu:tup:

Gerry, I realise that space will be tight and any gains are essential, think the left foot will be fine, although I have no seat as yet but foot fits between the column and the gearbox reasonably well, it's the throttle pedal I'm having difficulties with, I have a nice shiny new aluminium floor mount one that I thought would do the job but it will just not fit well and clashes with the pitman arm that is just under the floor so I am going to have to look for something else or come up with a plan. I don't want one that is attached to the firewall if I can help it, I would like the throttle cable to come from under the body and up to the carbs. Still plenty of time to overcome that one.

03-03-19, 02:11 PM
Only update I can give is that I started to glassfibre the floor today but due to the garage been damp and the time from when I installed all the packing tape, the tape has come adrift from the "floor" and so the glassfibre will end up with holes or pockets. Me been me I did give it a go but realised it was a pointless waste of time and materials so now will be ripping all the tape back off as well as the plasticine shaping and start again but next time I will do the whole lot in one weekend rather than over a few months.

Not overly pleased but that's just life at times:crazy:

18-04-19, 07:24 PM
So finally an update with some photo's.

A recap for anyone who is interested. The packing tape failed to stick so I removed it all and found that the silver tape that is used for taping up joints in foil backed plasterboard or insulation sticks like the proverbial to a blanket, so I covered everything in that first.

Could have spent more time getting it all really flat but I was bored by now:lol:
Then I covered that with the brown thin packing tape.

I was going to put a load of wax on top of that but as I said the last time I did anything like this I went by the book and it failed so thought sod it just get on and go for it. So now it was time to start glassing everything up.

Including a piece of 2mm thick stainless steel plate as reinforcement for where the hand brake will be positioned.
This was followed by a fair few layers of glass matting which I did over a period of time (note the "I will do it all over a weekend" went out the window), so between each time I left and started again I had to sand the floor down with 80 grit and wipe over with acetone so that the next attack of the glassing stuck to the first.
In the end we had this.

I then left it all to cure for about five days and couldn't wait any longer so set to and unbolted the body from the chassis and with the use of a jack, gently lifted each corner to release the tub from the makeshift floor. Didn't take any photo's of this bit but I'm sure you get the idea.
Took the tub outside and turned it over, a lot of the wood was still attached to the glass fibre and I started to get a bit worried, however, all was ghood:D
The wood came away easily and left the tunnel to be removed.

The tunnel area needed persuading a little with a large flat bladed screwdriver
Then it was clean things up a bit, remove packing tape and plasticine and we had this

I will need to put a skim of filler over it just to even out the wrinkles and the odd depression but over all I'm happy with the end result and extremely happy I didn't have to use a sledge hammer again.

One other thing I noticed and it only became apparent when the tub was upside down, the original creator of this was building it for a customer, it started out as a 15T to be powered by a Rover 3500 (buick to MJ) and an auto box, the guy came back after it was a rolling chassis and decided it was not big enough so they added 6" into the body and frame, he also then wanted a SBC, well after disappearing for a long time the project was sold on and then on again to me, Now it's getting the BB Mopar (issue with front suspension to be talked about at a later time), however this was all talk and no actual proof until the tub was upside down and here you can just make out the added 6" (easier in the sunlight).
So I've bought a cut and shut job:sniff:

Not much will happen for the next few weeks as life is just getting in the way again but I now have a floor:D

23-04-19, 11:10 AM
Some progress is better than none :tup:

23-04-19, 06:24 PM
Its hard work mate. All to just know its been done right.

How may people do you think will ever see or appreciate the effort you have put into the underneath of a floor...

Well here's one that does appreciate all your efforts.:tup:

23-04-19, 08:10 PM
Thanks gents:tup: and you are right uncle fad no one will probably know but I will (and so will you lot on here), it will never be a show stopper and although I haven't done everything on it I would like to think whatever I have done was to the best of my abilities.

27-07-19, 07:47 PM
Well the weather is crap as you all know but on the plus side that meant that I couldn't work on the house:tup: and as the parts are on order for the general run of the mill cars I managed to get to look at the T again:D

I really want to get the chassis finished off and prepare it for paint so I think the last bit to the puzzle is the alternator adjusting bracket. I managed to get a great deal on an aftermarket one for a small block chevy at the swap meet earlier in the year, well we all know how that went then don't we, yep didn't work out to be as hoped. SOOOOOoooo, today I made a bit of a pattern out of some glassfibre panel that was once part of the T's bulkhead.

Obviously the end wasn't just long enough for the curve I will be putting on the end.

Then off to a local heavy steel works to see if they had any pieces of scrap 6mm steel plate, two things here, firstly it was 12.30 on a Saturday but they were working, secondly when asked what for and I said to make an alternator bracket for a hot rod, they showed me their reliant robin race car (I kid you not:lol:) well the upshot was a nice clean freeby piece of 6mm plate steel - result.

So mark out the piece of steel like so.


and then set to with cutting disc's, grinder and hacksaw till we have this


Followed by this

It's at this point in every bracket making episode that I then say I really should get a plasma cutter as this would have taken no more than 10 minutes to do the whole bracket start to finish but I do so little of these I can't justify the cost, having said that the next stage would have been helped if I had a pillar drill, why haven't I got one of those?
So trusty cordless drill to hand we ended up with this.

And then after much filing we have this.


Still a bit more filing to do to make it a bit neater but it fits and the adjustment is great, so not a massive step but it is a little further on and I think I will now be stripping everything down to get the chassis painted then I can start to fit things back on for good.:tup:

28-07-19, 06:08 PM
Another dull day so was able to spend some time with the cars. The T chassis is now fully stripped down so when the weather is brighter and drier I will get it outside, give it a wipe over and paint it.:D


28-07-19, 06:48 PM
Lots of hard work for a bracket. Very few of us left.

i really would like to see some more X members in that frame.....

29-07-19, 07:08 PM
The bit of steel on the floor in the middle of the rails is the cross member for the gearbox, it is fairly substantial and is held in place by four bolts on either side into the chassis rails which have double plates welded in. The front is pretty hefty as well, then there is the rear member that holds the axle in place.

As well as that I have welded in a further 2" x 1" brace in front of the rear cross member to catch the torque straps and I have added a 2"x 2" "hoop" cross member that is moulded into the body and attaches to each rail via bolts. This one forms the basis of the underside of the seat.

A K member for the gearbox might have been the optimum way to go but that was how it came to me. Fingers crossed it holds together:beuj:

Oh and there is a hoop of 1" square, bonded to the back of the firewall as well at the rear of the body, both of which bolt to the rails, this is minimal but is the way that the body is held on.

Out of interest is there anywhere else you think would benefit from more steelwork before I paint it

29-07-19, 07:11 PM
Think you probably got it covered.:tup:

29-07-19, 08:13 PM
Cool, would rather add stuff now than paint it and then grind off and add more only to paint it again:lol:

30-07-19, 04:20 PM
paint it and then grind off and add more only to paint it again:lol:

But thats the way it done....isn't it? :)

30-07-19, 04:26 PM
Just for a reference...


23-02-20, 06:20 PM
Feeling a bit ashamed that I haven't done anything to the T for so long, in my defence I do have a lot of projects on the go all at the same time plus I just bought two more, won't bore you with the two new ones as they are not car related but they do have engines:D

Anyway, as the weather has been rather mild and nothing turned up as it was supposed to do I had some time so thought I would get a start on the inlet manifold clean up. I had a piece of ali welded in the back end of the manifold and I needed to get it flat as I could plus did a bit of porting on the inside.

This is not the very start of the process but was roughed out a while back (no photo's of it then).

Then after some three hours and very soar fingers and thumbs later we get close.

Now just have to do the rest of it, which hopefully will be a little easier, before spraying it.

Not sure why the photo's are skewed but have no idea as to how to get them the right way up, sorry.

27-03-20, 07:25 PM
A bit done today, I stripped the Torqueflight ages ago and cleaned up the casing before spraying with some rattle can etch primer and then some black 2K high build primer, however, I didn't get round to spraying the gloss coat and it would appear that eventually moisture got into the paint and reacted causing small blisters and "scabs" so I had to rub it all back to bare Ali again and start over.

So as the weather was rather nice I set to and got it done, sprayed on some rattle can etch primer again but my high build primer had gone off so I decided to just go for it and spray the 2K black gloss on and see what happens.

Fairly pleased with the result other than a couple of bits of dirt or insects got in the way but hopefully they will polish out ok and the finished result will be ok, only tomorrow will tell as it started to get a bit chilly so put them away in the shed till the morning. I still have some gloss left so if the worst comes to it I will rub everything down with a bit of 400 grit and squirt some more on.

So here is today's effort.


Even if I say so myself, the pictures do not do it justice as it looks like there are loads of runs but for a change no runs:tup:

27-03-20, 07:34 PM
We like shiny.
I think that was one of my very early posts.

28-03-20, 11:47 AM
We all have no excuse not to do anything now. Think I may be in the garage next week :tup:
Another step forwards.

15-04-20, 08:58 PM
Ok, so 28 months after actually starting to strip the gearbox I have finally started to put it back together again.

I had already cleaned things up and assembled bits and pieces but UncleFad said that I needed to strip down the valve body as there would be crap in the galleries etc. This I was a bit apprehensive about as I knew there would be loads of springs and ball bearings etc. Anyway my thought process went along the lines of if I can't get it back together then I could always use it as an excuse for a manual valve body:D

So here is the main body disassembled and as you can see it was full of crap.

Not much else to show as it would be very boring to anyone as it was never going to be a step by step rebuild, however, I did manage to get almost everything back together and hopefully in the right order and orientation BUT I nearly always have a few bits left over and bugger me I did this time.
These two little devils were left out from somewhere.
I looked at every plate on the body, checked and re-checked and then when just about to give up I realised where they went.
To say I was rather relieved was a bit of an understatement.

One thing I am not that happy about is the state of the brand new Ali deep pan. The casting is a bit poor if you ask me and I will probably end up getting the grinder out and making it a bit better. It looks like it has corroded under the paint but it hasn't, it is just poor casting. If I had a mill I would also remove the makers name from the base but as I don't I may just gloss black the whole thing.

So IF I get a bit of time over the next few days I will hopefully get the box completely assembled and ready for final rub down and paint:tup:

21-04-20, 07:42 PM
Gearbox is finally all back together, however only time will tell if I did it correctly and that time will be some way off.

One thing that bugged me was the deep pan for the box and even more so when I realised that the holes in the cast pan don't line up with the gearbox:grr:
So after half an hour of filing and drilling some of the holes oversized, we finally had the pan able to be bolted up, this however did somewhat annoy me and so decided that even without a mill I was not going to advertise the maker of the pan and promptly set to with a finger file, block of wood and some 180 grit wet and dry paper, an hour later we went from this
To this
Yes it was time-consuming but I was just bloody annoyed.
Then using my new toy, the bead blaster cabinet, we got to this point

A bit of rattle can etch primer and some black 2k primer filler and we got to this
Not perfect but a whole lot better than before and I'm happy enough.

Next I set about the engine sump, I bought an Ali sump from the Southern swap meet two years ago, apparently it was out of a racing offshore power boat but it needed a load of work as it had at some point gotten seawater around it and also looks like it was dragged along some concrete at one time or another rubbing it down and trying to get it smooth has been knackering but we are close and the very deep scratches and salt eaten bits probably won't completely go but it is not too bad.
After more rattle can etch primer and a couple of coats of black primer filler we get this
Then I gave the inlet manifold and gearbox a bit of 600 grit wet sanding and squirted some 2k gloss black paint on anything that didn't move, a few little bits have landed in the paint but I think that most, if not all, will polish out when it has had time to properly harden.
And then the sumps


One last photo of my latest little toy, when I was spraying the tunnel ram the first time around I found that the spray from my full sized gun was not allowing the paint to get into all the very tight crevases, basically the air pressure was washing the paint back out, I thought I would buy a smaller gun, OK so those that can spray know I just needed to adjust the spray pattern but I didn't at the time so on to evilbay and bought a £15 gun with free delivery, for those that don't know it is the one on the left.
But before it arrived my mate said just adjust the spray pattern Doh!!!, well that is exactly what I did when spraying this last time and all went well, BUT, as I got to the end of the paint in the larger pot I still needed to spray a few small areas so I emptied the contents of the larger gun into the smaller one and gave it a test before actually spraying anything more on the gearbox pan, it went well so went for it and I can honestly say it was great, I was apprehensive as it cost so little but it worked really well.
I have a few smaller bits such as the oil filter and housing, engine front cover, fuel pump, gearbox oil cooler and other small bits and I think I will use the small gun for them.

Next proper job is to get the chassis out of the shed, clean it all up, prime where needed and spray in 2k gloss black. hopefully the weather holds and the other half doesn't get the hump with me working on the cars instead of the house:lol:

26-04-20, 06:48 PM
Been active the last couple of days on the chassis, all rubbed down and hanging ready for some paint.
Now with paint
It's not the easiest thing to spray and I did manage to get the hose tangled up a couple of times and doing the spraying from below was a nightmare. Got a few runs in it but they should [polish out ok when it's all gone rock solid, fingers crossed.

Whilst I still had some paint left in the gun I decided to do the oil filter and the front timing cover as well. I know most people would polish all this lot up to within an inch of their lives but I'm not one for doing too much of that sort of thing when the motor is all up and running so hopefully painting it all will be easier to keep looking nice and clean without too much effort.

And the oil filter
The photo makes it look crap but it's actually come out ok for a cxhange.

I have decided that I am not happy with the engine sump so that will get more work done on it before spraying again.

So, once the chassis is fully cured and rubbed down, if nothing needs doing further I can start to bolt things back on for the final time.:tup:

27-04-20, 11:25 AM
It's amazing what can be done if we just go for it rather than think too much about doing something. Great progress :tup:

28-04-20, 06:21 PM
You are right, I'm trying to do something car related every couple of days, today was cut short but still managed to prepare the aluminium water pump housing ready for paint, real fiddle little bugger but done now.:tup:

Would like to be as close as you are to getting it fired up but would need a few more months of good weather and lockdown to do that.:lol:

28-04-20, 06:51 PM
Keep it going. It all looks good to me and paint is the new chrome.

29-04-20, 05:45 PM

Decided that I really couldn't live with the aluminium sump having such deep scratches and pot marks, so rubbed it all back, applied a small amount of filler and rubbed down ready for more paint, same went for the auto deep sump but without the filler:D

Waiting for some more etch primer before I can continue with them.