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fabphil
06-09-17, 06:01 PM
Start of a new thread on works to the car, carried on from the existing thread in the Showfield.

Due to new legislation around MOTs and approval testing this thread will show the BIVA build incorporated.

After going over the car for the last couple of years it has been obvious although registered as a 32 Ford there is nothing original in the build so no points available there under the 8 point rule.
All the parts were new or reproductions dating from around 98.
This date means it misses the 1988 cut off year for and modifications.
It also means it should have had an approval test when originally built. Not had a "wrong" reg. applied. Although this has "worked" for the last 18 or so years.
The only saving grace is the engine has a casting number on it from pre-73 so it only requires visual emissions testing :tup:

Off we go.........

Offering up new headers and exhaust whilst the engines still in to see what needs to change.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b0373b659a4.jpg

Looks like just a change of angle for the flange :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b0373b65720.jpg

fabphil
07-09-17, 07:38 PM
To late to go back now.....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b1a00219c45.jpg

Plumpcars
07-09-17, 08:53 PM
In deep!

stilltrying
08-09-17, 08:00 AM
Not going to the A602's do on Sunday then:incheek:

fad15
08-09-17, 11:59 AM
The chain gang "hath pulleth"....

fabphil
08-09-17, 07:23 PM
Not going to the A602's do on Sunday then:incheek:

The cars in disgrace after the trans breaking :). I'm going in the daily ....again.

fabphil
08-09-17, 07:35 PM
Up, up and away.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b2ee9da5b1f.jpg

She's out....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b2ee9da5ca8.jpg

Murder in the garage....when you forget to drain the trans oil :whack:
AS the prop shaft came out so did all the oil!!! Rear seal totally fu**ed
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b2ee9da58ed.jpg

Scores on the slip yoke adding to leakage.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b2ee9da60df.jpg

Front seal also leaking!!!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b2ee9dab70e.jpg


Convertor worn. Can this be used again? Not by me though need a higher stall.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b2ee9da5f5e.jpg

Its amazing how much you find wrong when taking an old car apart...... bell housing bolts just finger tight! and gearbox mount was not bolted to the actual box
it was just sitting on the transverse bracket!

Rear axle out next :D

stilltrying
09-09-17, 08:33 AM
You could really upset the car by going manual and if racing then a lenco:D would sit nicely behind that monster motor you are building and then no auto trans fluid to worry about. Am I helping at all?:lol:

fabphil
10-09-17, 07:42 PM
Rear axle out. Houser built - chassis engineering 5 bar linkage and adj shock mounts. Rear re-enforcing bar.
Now got to have it blasted to clean off all the cr*p and weld on the wheelie bar mounts :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b594437ab3f.jpg

Aftermath of the weekends work. Need to clear some space....who said a double garage was big enough :lol:
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b594441b145.jpg

When removing the 3rd member the oil looked like metal soup...loads of particles suspended in it.
Looks like it may have come from the teeth.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59b59444295af.jpg

fabphil
26-09-17, 07:28 PM
Unboxed new half shafts.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9cba9ab8.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9cc10770.jpg
New rear discs to match fronts.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9cc8c7ad.jpg
New bearings don't have an O-ring!!! Bu**er, how do I stop the oil leaking out now?
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9cc91555.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9cd5bd5b.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9cd8f688.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9ce2e7c2.jpg
Axle casing and 5 bars back from Nigel at Enviroblast. What a difference.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9ce1d268.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59caa9ce96a18.jpg

stilltrying
27-09-17, 08:09 AM
Looks like you are trying to play automotive chess:D

As to the bearing, it looks like they are the same internal diameter on both shafts and also there is enough shoulder to put a bearing with the "O" ring on the new shafts so off to a machine shop to remove/replace and you should be good to go. Any machine shop should be able to measure everything before doing any actual works.:tup:

fabphil
27-09-17, 09:05 PM
Looks like you are trying to play automotive chess:D

As to the bearing, it looks like they are the same internal diameter on both shafts and also there is enough shoulder to put a bearing with the "O" ring on the new shafts so off to a machine shop to remove/replace and you should be good to go. Any machine shop should be able to measure everything before doing any actual works.:tup:

Sods law.... paid extra to have the bearings put on. There's supposed to be an internal shaft seal on the 9" axle. So may look for some of them to make life easier.

jasonwyth
02-10-17, 06:02 AM
I'm impressed with your progress. Keep up the good work.

fabphil
02-10-17, 09:58 AM
Sods law.... paid extra to have the bearings put on. There's supposed to be an internal shaft seal on the 9" axle. So may look for some of them to make life easier.

Did some more checking over the weekend. There is no recess for the internal oil seal in the bearing housing I have :confused:
So have to have the bearing with the o-ring seal or would RTV sealant do the job???

fabphil
02-10-17, 10:01 AM
I'm impressed with your progress. Keep up the good work.

When all this started it was supposed to be a quick wizz through to check all was OK and just drive the car.
As you see if you've followed the story from the beginning be very careful what you start :D

stilltrying
02-10-17, 12:26 PM
Did some more checking over the weekend. There is no recess for the internal oil seal in the bearing housing I have :confused:
So have to have the bearing with the o-ring seal or would RTV sealant do the job???

Personally I would get the bearings changed to the "O" ring type then there is no chance of loosing oil and possibly buggering the brake pads/shoes/handbrake set up. RTV may well do the job but could cause issues if you want to remove the shafts at a later date, basically you would be "gluing" the bearings in place.

fad15
02-10-17, 03:11 PM
RTV..... not on my watch.:tdown:

fabphil
02-10-17, 06:04 PM
RTV..... not on my watch.:tdown:

Consider myself told... will give Southern Axles a call in the morning :)

fabphil
11-10-17, 07:16 PM
Well its been an interesting few days.
Have now got a pair of Strange HD bearings with 'o' ring oil seals for the new half shafts.
Have ordered a new TH400 auto box from STA in Aylesbury.
This is a JW Transmissions box rated at 1000bhp, custom torque convertor, SFI flex plate, bell housing and trans shield.
Have also found out after a lot of research that the rod is likely to require a BIVA test to stay on the road :cry:
Its one of hundred's that have just been built and registered incorrectly to make things easy i.e. not pass any C & U tests.
Found the relevant BIVA documentation on line and almost gave up!
The had a chat with our man Kapri.
Things seem a lot less complicated after talking to some one who actually knows what they are talking about.
So the thread will now be longer as all the BIVA "stuff" will be sorted out along the way.
Have to change all the glass to E marked, have to use the 1970s block or will need to fit a cat and fuel injection.
Loads of other little bits needed.
But at the end the rod will actually be worth more as its properly legal.
Downside is a Q plate and having to pay road tax!!!

fabphil
18-10-17, 06:46 PM
Drive shafts back from Southern Axles. Took them in Monday ready Tuesday, top bloke :)
New bearings with 'o' ring oil seal and new 1/2" ARP studs.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59e7a13a9baed.jpg

fad15
18-10-17, 07:16 PM
Hope you can get your money back on the RTV:incheek:

fabphil
18-10-17, 07:22 PM
I bought 4 tubes a while back, just trying to use them up :incheek:

fad15
18-10-17, 08:07 PM
Funny thing is that Kinsler specs RTV on my 3 part manifold. Bead front and rear of the valley plate and between the throttle bodies and the valley plate... no gaskets available for these surfaces.

I will get my coat, and try some of that pie on the way out....

fabphil
18-10-17, 08:10 PM
Funny thing is that Kinsler specs RTV on my 3 part manifold. Bead front and rear of the valley plate and between the throttle bodies and the valley plate... no gaskets available for these surfaces.

I will get my coat, and try some of that pie on the way out....

I first used it for the seal on my inlet manifold on the 460. Used traditional gaskets over the ports and RTV front and back. Worked beautifully :).

stilltrying
18-10-17, 08:29 PM
Mr Pabphill, nice to see some progress. As to BIVA (and I know Kev is the guru on it all) if it was me I wouldn't bother unless you are changing things that would be affected by the BIVA rules, my reasoning for this is that you are not starting a new build, if you were then deffo build to the regs. No-one knows for sure what the powers that be are going to do, everything is guesstimation at present and if you get your rod sorted and mot'd before April you would at least have a year of driving around and by then we should all know what will be affected.
If your screen is buggered then yes get a cut down landy one which would comply, if they do one with heated elements even better (wouldn't need a heater in the car).
As an example of how things can escalate, and I know you will have been looking at the thread, how long has it been for the guy building the black pop on the other channel, at least 18 months and he still hasn't finished messing, in some parts he has over thought stuff. This is not a go at the guy, he is doing a great job BUT the time taken is an issue, you could sort a lot of issues for BIVA in short measure, get hold of Kev's booklet on what needs doing it will be a lot easier to follow when the time comes.
I have been through SVA and it was a pain in the arse to be honest but you get 6 months to rectify the fail items and it only gets retested on those items.
From memory of seeing your car once I would suggest a full bonnet with sides, different door catches and handles, maybe caps for bolts on the front suspension and some good silencers for the exhaust. Believe it or not my worst part was getting mirrors to gain the angles rearward, ended up with a pair of motor cycle ones for the test and then put the original ones back on afterwards.
Tyres have to be capable of the speed that you say the car will go so don't say it will do 155mph, 120mph would possibly work.
Ooops getting carried away, it's YOUR car so build as you wish, it's only my thoughts. Oh and my one will not pass either and will need a load of work but I was hoping to get some fun out of it first before doing it for the test but time may well be against me, heyho.:tdown:

cptpugwash
18-10-17, 11:49 PM
Well its been an interesting few days.
Have now got a pair of Strange HD bearings with 'o' ring oil seals for the new half shafts.
Have ordered a new TH400 auto box from STA in Aylesbury.
This is a JW Transmissions box rated at 1000bhp, custom torque convertor, SFI flex plate, bell housing and trans shield.
Have also found out after a lot of research that the rod is likely to require a BIVA test to stay on the road :cry:
Its one of hundred's that have just been built and registered incorrectly to make things easy i.e. not pass any C & U tests.
Found the relevant BIVA documentation on line and almost gave up!
The had a chat with our man Kapri.
Things seem a lot less complicated after talking to some one who actually knows what they are talking about.
So the thread will now be longer as all the BIVA "stuff" will be sorted out along the way.
Have to change all the glass to E marked, have to use the 1970s block or will need to fit a cat and fuel injection.
Loads of other little bits needed.
But at the end the rod will actually be worth more as its properly legal.
Downside is a Q plate and having to pay road tax!!!

Think paying road tax is a small price to pay
Good luck with your build :tup:

fabphil
19-10-17, 08:16 AM
Mr Pabphill, nice to see some progress. As to BIVA (and I know Kev is the guru on it all) if it was me I wouldn't bother unless you are changing things that would be affected by the BIVA rules, my reasoning for this is that you are not starting a new build, if you were then deffo build to the regs. No-one knows for sure what the powers that be are going to do, everything is guesstimation at present and if you get your rod sorted and mot'd before April you would at least have a year of driving around and by then we should all know what will be affected.
If your screen is buggered then yes get a cut down landy one which would comply, if they do one with heated elements even better (wouldn't need a heater in the car).
As an example of how things can escalate, and I know you will have been looking at the thread, how long has it been for the guy building the black pop on the other channel, at least 18 months and he still hasn't finished messing, in some parts he has over thought stuff. This is not a go at the guy, he is doing a great job BUT the time taken is an issue, you could sort a lot of issues for BIVA in short measure, get hold of Kev's booklet on what needs doing it will be a lot easier to follow when the time comes.
I have been through SVA and it was a pain in the arse to be honest but you get 6 months to rectify the fail items and it only gets retested on those items.
From memory of seeing your car once I would suggest a full bonnet with sides, different door catches and handles, maybe caps for bolts on the front suspension and some good silencers for the exhaust. Believe it or not my worst part was getting mirrors to gain the angles rearward, ended up with a pair of motor cycle ones for the test and then put the original ones back on afterwards.
Tyres have to be capable of the speed that you say the car will go so don't say it will do 155mph, 120mph would possibly work.
Ooops getting carried away, it's YOUR car so build as you wish, it's only my thoughts. Oh and my one will not pass either and will need a load of work but I was hoping to get some fun out of it first before doing it for the test but time may well be against me, heyho.:tdown:

I know exactly what you mean.
Most of the stuff is actually very easy to do and fairly quick.
Now I have the engine, trans and axle out and no interior it seems a good time to "just go that bit further".
After a long look I'm also looking/thinking at rewiring the whole car.
There is a lot of iffy cable routing and I want to move some switch locations so........
Just as well I'm enjoying the messing about :).

stilltrying
19-10-17, 08:57 AM
I have a friend (no honest!) who enjoys the building far more than the driving, I like both but with a bias towards driving them.

If rewiring would you be going for a kit such as EZ wire or similar? if so just check that it will have the necessary bits for brake fluid level warning, fog lights, side repeaters etc. which are needed for BIVA. My last car I used the complete wiring loom from the donor vehicle which had everything I needed as well as the switch gear.

This thread should soon be filled to capacity then:D

fabphil
19-10-17, 09:04 AM
I have a friend (no honest!) who enjoys the building far more than the driving, I like both but with a bias towards driving them.

If rewiring would you be going for a kit such as EZ wire or similar? if so just check that it will have the necessary bits for brake fluid level warning, fog lights, side repeaters etc. which are needed for BIVA. My last car I used the complete wiring loom from the donor vehicle which had everything I needed as well as the switch gear.

This thread should soon be filled to capacity then:D

The car had an American Autowire kit fitted which was OK.
I'm not happy with the wires trailing under the carpets so will be re-routing in flex conduit up over the doors.
Also as mentioned all the extras needed now.
Have just had a box of cables and stuff arrive from Vehicle Wiring Products.....watch this space.

fabphil
27-10-17, 12:25 PM
Oh dear....what have I done.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59f3258c0e113.jpg

Tried a little pipe bending last night :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59f3258c22812.jpg

stilltrying
27-10-17, 01:15 PM
Go on, how many attempts before you were happy:lol:

cptpugwash
28-10-17, 12:35 PM
Look nice :tup:
Looks like some track actions going to be on the cards

fabphil
28-10-17, 12:40 PM
Go on, how many attempts before you were happy:lol:

Believe it or not only two fails. Then found my 37* flare and saved things.

stilltrying
28-10-17, 07:07 PM
Nice one:tup: If the Nitrous is getting installed then the fire up video shouldn't be long now:incheek:

fabphil
28-10-17, 07:11 PM
If only....

fabphil
16-11-17, 11:20 AM
Things have gone from bad to worse. Now ripped all the wiring out and am re-wiring from scratch. Relocating fuse panels etc. etc.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a0d736c774ec.jpg

fabphil
16-11-17, 11:25 AM
NOS only supply 2 x 1/8" NPT 90* male fittings in the kit and 2x 3/8" NPT straight connectors.
The straight connectors are of no use as the solenoids have their out lets on the side not the bottoms.
Does any one have or know where I can find 2 x 1/8" NPT male 90* fittings in the UK.
I have searched the web and I can only find them on the Summit site for around 9.00 each!!!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_59f3258c22812.jpg

Plumpcars
16-11-17, 04:34 PM
Speak to Fay at Speedflow, she may be able to help with other than what is on the website. She does NPT 90 deg fixed adaptors

fabphil
16-11-17, 04:46 PM
Speak to Fay at Speedflow, she may be able to help with other than what is on the website. She does NPT 90 deg fixed adaptors

Just rang them, they're on the case and will let me know what they have when Fays back. Thanks Steve.

fad15
16-11-17, 06:00 PM
Otherwise try Earls at Silverstone. 9 quid each is not out of order, these days.

Plumpcars
16-11-17, 06:13 PM
Fay is really helpful and a racer herself.

Torment
16-11-17, 06:58 PM
Or bigyellataxi on r n s.

fabphil
18-11-17, 03:49 PM
Thanks all.
Fay has sorted me out. Will have them on Monday :tup:

fabphil
20-11-17, 10:23 AM
Alloy fuel tank arrived to replace plastic one!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a12ad0cc43a5.jpg

fad15
20-11-17, 10:46 AM
cool

stilltrying
20-11-17, 06:20 PM
You do realise that Christmas is still a way off! Also at some point you will have to put all these prezzies together:tup:

fabphil
21-11-17, 03:12 PM
You do realise that Christmas is still a way off! Also at some point you will have to put all these prezzies together:tup:
And thats not including all the bits I'm collecting for BIVA.
The better half is going mental at all the boxes arriving :giggle:
They'll all get together one day :)
Need to paint the axle casing and engine block first. Just waiting for a day I can wash both down get them dry and paint them.
Time is short at the moment.

stilltrying
21-11-17, 08:47 PM
Time is short at the moment.

I think we can all relate to that, life just has a habit of getting in the way a fair bit of the time. Will be good to see the engine and box bolted back in though:tup:

fad15
21-11-17, 09:09 PM
Pics of afore mentioned parts, please

fabphil
22-11-17, 07:50 PM
Pics of afore mentioned parts, please

Wot all of them :)

fad15
22-11-17, 07:59 PM
Just a couple would do....


Kinda like this.


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/1/1/5/115_5a15d6fc93ef3.jpg

fabphil
22-11-17, 08:46 PM
Got this....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5a7e0c5.jpg

and this....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5b48d3e.jpg

BIVA bits...
Box of cable for rewire, 14 IVA compatible rocker switches (9.3mm protrusion from panel all radiused)!!!
Toggle switches to much trouble to protect. The new rockers will go in a roof dash with the radio and nitrous controller.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de58033e8.jpg

New steering wheel, padded rim. Wood rims not allowed. Collapsible boss. Will have to cover spokes with foam padding.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5a5eaea.jpg

New front wheel covers, the old ones were far to small.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de58325d8.jpg

New mirrors so I can actually see behind me. Old door handle at the top of the pic has a forward protrusion so has to be changed :grr:
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5c143be.jpg

Conduit for new cables.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de551f537.jpg

The 10" headlamps dip the wrong way so I'm changing the whole lot for a couple of ribbed posts and a pair of Deitz chrome lamp housings with P700 tri bar lamps.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5c472aa.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5b49370.jpg

Rear fog light latching relay. So rear fog can't be left on ater headlights switched off.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5645e5a.jpg

Reflectors
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5679a86.jpg

Front indicators, these will hang under the Deitz units.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5796381.jpg

Buzzer for safety door locks as I have suicide doors.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a15de5799e1b.jpg

For better or worse I've decided to go the BIVA route. Some are not convinced it will come to anything. I'm just incorperating it into finishing the car. What ever happens later I'll be street legal even if it means a Q plate :shake:

fad15
23-11-17, 05:38 AM
Are you sure you're not starting a speed shop!!!!.

fabphil
11-12-17, 12:40 PM
Full set of thermals on, two pairs of socks and woolly hat.
Sods law means after measuring at least 3 times for the new tank dimensions somehow I still got it wrong and the tank was to big to sit in the original frame :whack:
Spent the day cutting and inserting 10mm sections of angle. It now fits. Re drilled all the locating holes.
New tank in place also fitted the new external filler cap (top of right rear side).
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a2e7b74bc85c.jpg

Now the auto darken function on my helmets broken and it wont lighten up when the arc stops!
Weldability don't do spares so new helmet on the way.

stilltrying
11-12-17, 05:00 PM
Progress is progress no matter what and we all like a bit of progress.

As you are starting at the rear of the car with the welding, by the time you get to the front you will be so good that you could lengthen the front a tad and find enough room for that blower pulley:) ok I'll shut up now.

fabphil
11-12-17, 05:43 PM
As you are starting at the rear of the car with the welding, by the time you get to the front you will be so good that you could lengthen the front a tad and find enough room for that blower pulley:) ok I'll shut up now.

Don't even go there :)

fabphil
21-01-18, 09:12 PM
New fuel tank in properly, external filler all connected.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a6500f2b729d.jpg

Rewiring starts. There's a lot more circuits than an original 32 :lol:
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a6500f25ea80.jpg

Firewall filled and all screws changed to countersunk. Will be fitting an ally firewall in the future.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a6500f2ee744.jpg

Big hole in the floor, realised the new autobox and scatter shield wouldn't fit under the existing glass trans tunnel. Will have to wait until engine and box fitted then fabricate a new alloy one.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a6500f322fa4.jpg

stilltrying
21-01-18, 10:06 PM
Have you managed to source everything now or are you still buying up the hot rod world:incheek: Nice to see some stuff going back on.:tup:

fabphil
22-01-18, 01:20 PM
Yes its great to actually be putting stuff back :tup:
Sourced everything now....except some engine bits, push rods and head gaskets. These will need some working out as to what CR I'm aiming for.
Also need the roll cage extended and an interior :)

fabphil
25-02-18, 04:05 PM
Think I know what I'm doing..... There seems to be an awful lot of wires.
Due to the requirement for radius's etc the original roof panel I made with toggle switches has been scrapped. All the switches on the dash will be moved up into a new roof dash using the correct rocker switches (14 in all!)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a92dd2ed4360.jpg

Yes I definitely know where it all goes....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a92dd302dbaf.jpg


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a92dd2fe2dcd.jpg

Have fitted one power feed to the rear of the car and run separate fuses to the two fuel pumps, trans fan and trans brake.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a92dd3034868.jpg

stilltrying
25-02-18, 05:50 PM
Think I know what I'm doing..... There seems to be an awful lot of wires.
Yes I definitely know where it all goes....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a92dd302dbaf.jpg

FROM THE ABOVE TO THE BELOW, IT'S LIKE MAGIC, MASSES OF WIRES FOR FOUR ITEMS, CBS WILL HAVE TO ORDER MORE WIRE IN FOR YOU AT THIS RATE:lol:

Have fitted one power feed to the rear of the car and run separate fuses to the two fuel pumps, trans fan and trans brake.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a92dd3034868.jpg

Nice to see progress though:tup:

fabphil
04-03-18, 05:42 PM
Dash wiring before...
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a9c2f7f165c8.jpg
Dash wiring after....
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5a9c2f96c9816.jpg
More wiring in the car done this afternoon, but no wood for the burner stopped play early :shake:

stilltrying
04-03-18, 06:12 PM
Behave Fabphil it hasn't got cold yet, I'm only in because I got bored trying to smooth an engine block with a powered finger file and a grinder, noisy, dirty and slow, oh wait a minute that's just me:lol:

Nice to see progress and looking neat:tup:

fabphil
08-03-18, 06:00 PM
Result!....just acquired a pair of BMW M-Sport front seats.
Black cloth and Alcantara, forward/backward, up/down, back rest recline, seat tilt, adjustable thigh rest and electric side bolster adjustment!http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5aa179e84c93e.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5aa179e89b143.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5aa179e8c1453.jpg

Just got to figure out the wiring and have a quick clean. Well happy :tup:

stilltrying
08-03-18, 09:12 PM
I think you should finish the 32 before you start on your daily:incheek:

Check they don't or do have side airbags, get the wires crossed and your ears will ring for a fair while.

fabphil
08-03-18, 09:21 PM
I think you should finish the 32 before you start on your daily:incheek:

Necessary evil. Have got the ally sheet and copper rivets to build a nice pair of "bombers" but the sharp edges would not be BIVA (sorry) friendly.
The OEM seats fit and are very comfortable for a man of my advance age :D
They are however very heavy so may get swopped out after the inspection.

stilltrying
08-03-18, 11:04 PM
Ok, I understand that you are doing things to be BIVA compliant should the sky fall in, but I would have thought such things as the seats would only be necessary if they decide that your car is "illegal", which until the powers that be say it is why not build what you want, the way you want it. The bomber seats could pass BIVA with padding and covers added.

I understand all the switches, dials etc. as they would be a pain to go back and do for the test, similarly the glass, but seats would take no time at all to sort for the test and this is if you actually get called to do one. Your car I know so down to you but I looked at that pop on the other channel and seen how long it has taken and he is still worried about bits and pieces, if you have to go the BIVA route sometime in the future so be it but throw it in to see what it fails on and then only do the fail bits as they are the only bits that get re-tested, at least then you have a proper list of what needs doing and then you can relax and not try to second guess what the tester really wants. JMTPW:tup:

Torment
09-03-18, 01:53 PM
Very period seats there Phil.. .the purists will love them...will they not be a bit tall for your 32.?

fabphil
09-03-18, 10:02 PM
Very period seats there Phil.. .the purists will love them...will they not be a bit tall for your 32.?

Luckily I'm not a purist and don't give a toss what they will say, at the end of the day its my car.
There are plenty off Pop's etc running round with modern seats in.
Just tried them in today and your right they are a bit tall.
All would be well if the rollover bar rear bracing bars weren't in the way.....
Got to do some fettling....
Catch 22, for BIVA, reclining seats (although I can't recline the seats) must have an attached headrest so I can't just take off the headrests.
If the headrests are off the seats fit fine.

stilltrying
10-03-18, 12:09 AM
Luckily I'm not a purist and don't give a toss what they will say, at the end of the day its my car.

Perfect answer:tup:

Having said that I think Mr Torment might have been taking the micheal:tup:

fabphil
10-03-18, 11:39 AM
Having said that I think Mr Torment might have been taking the micheal:tup:

I've been told I get very literal when I've had a few beers so take everything as said :)
On ward and upward........

Torment
10-03-18, 01:26 PM
Should have put the :incheek: in my last post....

fabphil
23-04-18, 08:53 AM
Got some more work done this weekend :)

New paint baking in the sun.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5add9aea34f4b.jpg

It was a learning curve, my last spraying attempt was back in the late 70's on a Mk2 Capri using cellulose.
All this modern 2 pack paint and low pressure guns. Got hold of an air fed mask and cover all suit, H&S check :).
Mixed up the paint as instructions 4 paint to 1 hardener and started.
The paint was spitting out, adjusted gun settings but could not cure. Checked You Tube looked like to much pressure, was OK at 35psi.
When I removed the paint pot the paint looked like melted mozzarella cheese, thinned down some. Bingo all working OK.
I'm happy with the finish for a first go.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5add9aea9d8a8.jpg

Spent a few hours in the garage cleaning the inside of the housing. Blasting media and old oil- took ages to get it all out.
Then assembly started.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5add9aea9d80a.jpg

Quick Performance in the States recon the finished axle should be good for 1200bhp when finished.
Have got Yukon Grizzly locker in ally bolt through housing, Daytona pinion mount, forged 1350 yoke, 35 spline QP shafts and ARP 3" studs.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5add9aea9d0eb.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5add9aea9d511.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5add9aea9d8cc.jpg

Just got to get it back in the car now without scratching the paint :)

Also just realised I've lost the 4 bar links some where in the garage.

malamute john
23-04-18, 02:47 PM
kind of a shame to stuff something that pretty under the car where you cant always see it...

stilltrying
23-04-18, 04:23 PM
:yeahthat:

As for loosing stuff in the garage, welcome to my world:tdown: trouble is I get fed up looking after a while and just go and get another new "whatever" it was, not good.

fad15
23-04-18, 05:26 PM
Look for something else.

Its funny how you always seems to find something you were looking for and can't see, when you are looking for something else entirely.

fabphil
24-04-18, 10:56 AM
Look for something else.

Its funny how you always seems to find something you were looking for and can't see, when you are looking for something else entirely.

As you say.... was looking for something to do another "house" job last night and found the 4 bar links and shock brackets in a black bin bag under the bench :)

fabphil
21-05-18, 09:54 AM
Had a good day on Friday. Got the rear axle back under the car. All new bolts in the four link. Happy with progress even if it took all day.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b0293bf00e2b.jpg

Sunday. Things started off with problems and progressed from there. The wheelie bar mounts that had been carefully mocked up and welded, now once back under the car the plate to mount the lower arm to is at to steep an angle so the wheel on the bar touches the floor :confused: I'm hoping this will level out when the car gets back on its tyres and I can set the pinion angle properly. Otherwise going to have to cut and trim the lower bracket..bu**er.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b0293beef09d.jpg

New rear discs mounted. All looking good.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b0293bf4e094.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b0293bea204b.jpg

Then found the caliper would not sit right next to the bracket welded in the axle housing. It used to fit OK.
Disc off again, checked hub flange, all OK, then noticed there was a 5mm spacer between the bearing and the shoulder of the hub, thus moving everything out by 5mm :grr: 3 x M10 washers later the caliper now sits central on the disc but I need to get some longer 8.8 bolts
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b0293becc031.jpg

Also found the diagonal link only just clears the diff yoke, hoping for more clearance when the cars back on the floor.
As said before "Modifying old cars built by other people IS fun" :D

stilltrying
21-05-18, 08:31 PM
Looking nice and tidy, will be a shame to actually put brake pads on those super clean disc's. What happened to Saturday then:incheek:

fabphil
24-05-18, 07:20 PM
Had an unexpected few hours in the garage this afternoon. The axle is now properly in. All bolted up etc.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b070eff5379c.jpg

Wheels back on for the first time in 6 months. I've had to lose the spinners as the new studs are longer so have fitted the smooth centre caps.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b070eff59d4b.jpg

Also managed to dig out the rear fenders.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b070eff6334e.jpg

They have been off the car so long they have flattened out. Now got to find some bolts and re fit to inner tubbed arch.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b070eff5c4f3.jpg

Not sure how they will sit. The current wheels/tyres are 2" narrower than the originals that the car came with.
Its now 5" wider.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b070eff5eba8.jpg

stilltrying
24-05-18, 08:37 PM
Think you will need to do something with the arches to fit the new tyre/wheel combo or get different wheels:D

fabphil
28-05-18, 09:09 AM
Think you will need to do something with the arches to fit the new tyre/wheel combo or get different wheels:D

After doing some careful measuring the outer edge of the Pontiac light that was fitted is actually 398mm from the outer edge of the tread, giving me a whole 2mm of play :).
So the plan now is all the original rear lights back on! Return the combined units I'd bought to mount on the rear fenders and fit a slim line reverse/rear fog light centrally under the rear pan.
I've got some "proper" size black and silver reg plates to be mounted between the rear lights instead of under the car as before, and have found a tidy number plate light to fit above.
Sods law... the battery cut off switch is in the way!
Now got to move this over 2". My job for the day :lol:

V8Rumble
28-05-18, 12:47 PM
Cheers for the update gonna look great when done:tup:

fabphil
04-06-18, 07:51 AM
Had a good couple of days on the car. Result is all lights wiring etc from the back lights to the seats is now finished.
Just got to spray the bracket for the rear fog light and fit that.
Then on to the inside to mount the seats etc.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b14ef51b6c11.jpg

fabphil
25-06-18, 07:26 AM
Now I've started on the cabin. First thing was to try the newly acquired seats. Well they both fit and I think look OK.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b3095995e083.jpg
Only problem is they are to wide, so although they both fit in there is no room on the outsides for the cage door bars and no room in the middle for the handbrake, bu**er.

Back to plan A - home made bomber style seats.
Find a large box and go back to play school for the afternoon :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b3095996105b.jpg
Spent quite a while with my angle finder trying to get the optimum angle for the back rest, settled on 13 degrees from vertical.
You must have lots of holes in a bomber seat and as I purchased some very expensive punch and flare tools from the States last year thought I would make good use of them. Took a long time to decide on a pattern. Think i'm happy now. Harness slots low on each side at the bottom and a slot in the base for the 5th harness strap.

The moment of truth! It fits with clearance where needed.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5b30959960ee2.jpg
The passenger seat will have to be offset a couple of inches to clear the hand brake.
The base of the seat will be plywood and mount on a Unistrut frame that is fixed to the car floor.
This means I do not need an integral head restraint but can mount a pad on the rear roll bar support.
I have the ally sheet so just need to get on with it :tup:

fabphil
23-02-19, 05:30 PM
Due to engine building its been a while since I got on with anything to do with the actual car, suns out today so got the ally sheet out and the air shears.
A couple of hours work and I had something resembling a fire wall cover.
Template made.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c71823604a78.jpg
New hole in floor for T400 to fit.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c718237028c7.jpg
Ally sheet sorted
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c718236f274b.jpg
Fire wall, just got to do the fiddly bits now
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c718236f0cda.jpg
Plenty left for a couple of door panels and some bomber seats.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c718236f219c.jpg

fabphil
25-02-19, 09:51 AM
First go at proper solid riveting. Looks straight forward but the result wasn't quite as good as I'd hoped for.....it can only get better :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c73b9fdb1ca8.jpg
Used marine Sicaflex to bond the ally to the existing firewall.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c73b9fde6fa5.jpg
Starting to bring cables through and find all the original holes for brackets and clamps etc.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c73b9fe175ac.jpg

fabphil
26-02-19, 02:29 PM
Parts arrived from the States. Head location dowels and bronze cam thrust plate. Can get on with the motor now :tup:
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5c754d106aea6.jpg

fabphil
06-05-19, 07:12 PM
Have been working on the motor for a while now, got some time over the weekend to start on the bomber seats.
Hot Rod Harry helping to hold down the ally sheet.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086eb8e26f.jpg
Four sides cut out with the air shears
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086ec31418.jpg
Centre punched holes for rivets
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086eb8d90d.jpg
Ended up drilling over two hundred 3mm holes for the rivets
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086ec30e3e.jpg
Got this expanding gadget to set the distance between the rivet holes ,saves a lot if measuring
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086ec3e520.jpg
Cleco fittings to hold all together
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086ec48f35.jpg
Angle fitted to side piece
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086ee71d77.jpg
And we get to fitting the copper rivets. The air gun makes short work of things.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086eea651f.jpg
A few hours later, angle riveted , all U section edging cut for both seats. Lumbar support made.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086efac330.jpg
Seat bottom and back bent, sides clamped in place.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086ef1f506.jpg
Then I got to play with my dimple die cutters!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cd086efb380d.jpg

It's surprising how long it takes. Lots still to do. Need to deal with the sharp corners on the U section, rivet the back and base to the sides. Then fit to the mounting frame. Looks like there will be almost 500 rivets per chair!

stilltrying
07-05-19, 04:34 PM
Harry looks like he is as happy as anyone given a crap job:lol:

What ideas do you have for the sharp edges? I have one sharp edge on a seat in a mini digger I have and you can bet your life on the fact that everytime I get out of the damn thing I get snagged on it:tdown:

Nice to see some progress:tup:

fabphil
08-05-19, 04:58 PM
What ideas do you have for the sharp edges?

The top of the back and the front of the seat will have the U section riveted along to lose the sharp edge.
Turns out the Aluminium Warehouse I use on line is in Welham Green so anything ally is easy to get hold of.
Then I'm going to get some foam cushions made up, hopefully covered in Orange metallic vinyl.

fabphil
27-05-19, 09:56 AM
Got some play time today. Started on the roof switch panel.
This has to house all the usual switches lights, wipers, de-mist fan, brake level warning light and test switch plus all the aux switches for the nitrous, fuel pumps, cooling fans etc. Also has the radio, nitrous computer and trans and oil temp gauges.
Started off using the folder to get the basic shape then a lot of drilling, cutting and filing to get all the holes correct. The three holes in the back are for the BMW de-mist fan (BIVA requirement).

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ceac8b9edf89.jpg


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ceac8ba2e808.jpg



Cut and folded the end pieces.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ceac8f59836b.jpg



Riveted into place.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ceac8f5cc755.jpg



Fitted all the kit.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ceac8f62538d.jpg

The blower fan is the smallest I could find to fit, its the rear screen de-mist from a BMW cabriolet. Works like a small hairdryer, no water required.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ceac8f62d471.jpg

EDIT: Just moved this from my engine build thread.

stilltrying
28-05-19, 07:00 PM
Here's a thought, it will only be an issue IF you have to go for BIVA, do the main housing compliant and fit the radio, then if you have to go for BIVA for any reason (I would not volunteer for it) ditch the radio and put a blanking plate over the hole, the gauges you can have bezels turned up in ally that will be compliant and all you would need to do is stick them over the bezels you already have, not cheating and completely legal for the test.

If you really have to have a radio and can't live the few short hours that the test takes then you could always have a round bar loop over the knob in question, you should still be able to turn it and so long as the ball of doom can't touch it you are good to go. Think on similar lines to the switchgear in a BMW mini.

As to the housiong, how about some round ally tube or bar and fix it to the face of the offending areas, just an idea.

fabphil
30-05-19, 07:05 PM
Here's a thought, it will only be an issue IF you have to go for BIVA, do the main housing compliant and fit the radio, then if you have to go for BIVA for any reason (I would not volunteer for it) ditch the radio and put a blanking plate over the hole, the gauges you can have bezels turned up in ally that will be compliant and all you would need to do is stick them over the bezels you already have, not cheating and completely legal for the test.

If you really have to have a radio and can't live the few short hours that the test takes then you could always have a round bar loop over the knob in question, you should still be able to turn it and so long as the ball of doom can't touch it you are good to go. Think on similar lines to the switchgear in a BMW mini.

As to the housiong, how about some round ally tube or bar and fix it to the face of the offending areas, just an idea.

My thoughts as well. Panel the radio hole, fit some 5mm pipe round the edges.
Will only be going for BIVA if the reg gets pulled at any point.
Wont be too much trouble to pass if I just build it that way in the first place.

fabphil
07-06-19, 07:48 AM
Started on the wiring for the switches. Spaghetti! Should look better when the plugs are on the ends and all cable tied up.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cfa14a7e2ab1.jpg

Trying to figure out the side light/headlight, low beam/high beam and two speed wipers has been interesting
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5cfa14a671314.jpg

fabphil
07-06-19, 07:59 AM
What ideas do you have for the sharp edges?

Had a re-think on the edges. I'm not really happy with the angle at the top and bottom of the seat sides even filing them to a radius they will still hurt if accidentally caught so will be altering them to curves and hopefully using split copper micro bore plumbing pipe (8/10mm) to follow the curves.

fabphil
16-07-19, 08:47 PM
Bit more progress - dash back in :tup:
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d2e37b0b5051.jpg

fabphil
30-07-19, 07:57 PM
Got some garage time this afternoon.
Got some primer on the front cowel ready for top coat. There was a load of screw holes and chips in the area from the fitting of the LPG kit that I removed.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d409fc5ab5cd.jpg

Was thinking about spraying some gloss then realised the compressor is in the garage under the bench. Don't want the overspray re-circulating to the air fed mask! Payed a visit to the local aquarium suppliers for some 35mm hose and re-located the inlet filter to the outside of the garage back wall...ahhh fresh air :tup:

fabphil
03-08-19, 05:07 PM
After a little 'Breaking Bad' moment.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d45be9fc69be.jpg
We ended up with some shiny black stuff on the cowel.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d45bdbb5e47d.jpg
All masking and protective film removed, just a little feathering in required when the paint is hard :tup:
Will run a bead of black silicone round the edge of the ally sheet to finish off the edge.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d45bdbb5e4ba.jpg

malamute john
08-08-19, 08:17 PM
dats purdy... :)

fabphil
10-08-19, 05:08 PM
All stuff bolted back onto the firewall.
Question 1..do I leave the ally sheet as it is or put all my performance stickers I've accumulated all over it?
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d4ef7f0342a0.jpg
Question 2... the brake peddle is to high and to far away from the gas peddle. This at the moment means I have to left foot brake as the right foot hits the steering column when moved to apply the brakes. Any thoughts on how to solve? I'm looking at trying to make a proper 32 Ford style assembly that pushes down through the kick panel under the steering column. This will depend on the cross members under the floor.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d4ef7f0d9ea6.jpg

stilltrying
10-08-19, 08:01 PM
As to 1, I would leave the stickers off to start with and when the fire wall starts to look a bit grubby then add them, also once the engine is in place you would know where to fit them for best effect.

As for 2, The photo probably is not representative of the issue, but can you not reverse the pedal so that the lean is towards the throttle pedal and move the throttle pedal over to the right a bit more? I will also have to two foot if I can't come up with a cunning plan (or cut off some toes on my right foot and narrow it as well:lol:) to relocate both my throttle pedal and brake pedal as the steering column passes directly between the two. I might add there are a number of rods running with this configuration, it's something you get used to (have you been go-karting at all), however, if you ever want someone else to drive you car for any reason then that would be a major issue if they are not used to it.
Where is your brake master cylinder?

I actually knew of a car that had the throttle pedal inbetween the brake and clutch pedals years ago.:crazy:

fabphil
11-08-19, 05:06 PM
can you not reverse the pedal so that the lean is towards the throttle pedal and move the throttle pedal over to the right a bit more?
Where is your brake master cylinder?

Been to the Super Nats today and had a good look round at brake assemblies. Think I have a solution now.
I thought about trying to lean the brake pedal to the right but the travel of the arc when pressed hits the steering column.
The change of pedal bracket would mean the pedal pushes to the floor in a straight line and the arcing movement happens under the car.
The master cylinder and servo are under the floor under the drivers seat.

stilltrying
11-08-19, 06:31 PM
I thought about trying to lean the brake pedal to the right but the travel of the arc when pressed hits the steering column.

I thought that maybe the case but glad you may have found a solution.

fabphil
18-08-19, 07:26 PM
Made a cardboard template for the new brake pedal
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d59a3e8178d4.jpg
After a few measurements got it cut down to the correct size.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d59a3ead962c.jpg
This is the original pedal with the offset to the left.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d59a3e9a6d9c.jpg
Once I had the template cut I found out the angled crossmember was in the way :grr:
This caused a total re-think.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d59a3e84d838.jpg
Plan B will be to use the original pivot, remove the existing pedal and fabricate a new pedal offset to the right to get it on the right hand side of the column.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d59a3e9c0f95.jpg

fabphil
23-08-19, 08:28 PM
Had some play time in the garage one evening this week. Cut some 1.5" bits of old gas barrel pipe. We use it in the garden to stoke the bonfire! Just happened to be the right size.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604aadca51a.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604aaee1e20.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604aafbceac.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604aaf21840.jpg
The amber is the front indicator the white will be a day light running light. They will eventually be mounted under the headlamp each side of the alloy light post.

Staretd to polish up the alloy posts . Gave it a rub down with some 340 grit to get the machining marks out. The casting marks will be left as I'm polishing it up a bit ,not mirror finish.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604aafd0ef5.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604aafbd3fb.jpg

fabphil
23-08-19, 08:36 PM
Day off today. In the garage at 9.00am :D
Welded up some old fixing holes on the inside of the chassis. Ground flat and sprayed primer then gloss black.
Then... cleaned up a bit and pushed the car out so I had some room to manoeuvre.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab046f06.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab15ccb3.jpg

Engine hoist out and away we go.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab2379e0.jpg

The engine went in easily (new it was going to well). Then stopped solid with the last half inch to go to get the engine mount holes lined up.
The old C6 mounts were in the way. Had to go and get one of these....my new favourite toy.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab51772b.jpg

Two minutes later these were on the floor
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab49bc90.jpg

Still solid???
The transmission scatter shield was hitting the chassis. Had to cut a small chunk out of the shield. Looks like its lost its SFI rating, oops.

New motor in and bolted up. Just got to make a transmission mount now as its held in with a ratchet strap.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab296f5f.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab2a9239.jpg

Ground clearance is 3 3/8" on the engine and transmission.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d604ab34cfa6.jpg

fad15
24-08-19, 11:26 AM
And... breath, in, out, in, out and rest

stilltrying
25-08-19, 07:36 PM
Think I should get one of those saws, look a handy bit of kit when you can't get a full-sized hacksaw in some places. coming along well.:tup:

fabphil
27-08-19, 09:56 AM
Dug out the new starter motor, went to bolt in and true to form the JW bellhousing requires the starter to be bolted from the starter side. The MSD starter wants one bolt from the front and one from the back. Had to drill the thread out of the top started mount hole. Mounted up again and due to chassis design (read, chassis rails getting in the way) had to find a short 9/16" spanner as a socket wont fit in there or a normal length spanner.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e97868d44.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e9789d7ae.jpg

The alternator bracket also doesn't fit now I've swapped over to an electric water pump. All the mounts for use with an electric pump place the alternator low on the engine right where the chassis rail and steering rack happen to be. So I'm now playing around with the old mount and some studding to see if I can get a high mounting point.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e979e0753.jpg

Spent Monday getting the car back up in the air so I can sort out the trans mount. The jack ramps came in invaluable again.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e979387c9.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e97939b66.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e978d976a.jpg

After some alignment issues caused by the valley wall gasket/spacers I finally got the base of the tunnel ram back on.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e97b10961.jpg

While I had free access took the opportunity to fit the plug for the nitrous solenoids.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e97b10545.jpg

Induction back on:) Starting to look like a car again! Still loads to do though.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e97b266bb.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d64e97b335db.jpg

The GM T400 trans is a foot shorter than the Ford C6 that came out so will need to sort a new prop shaft at some point. I have a box of bits just need some one to weld them up and balance them.

stilltrying
27-08-19, 08:23 PM
Maybe loads to do but already loads done, the photo's with the carbs back on look great.

As to propshafts, there is Bailey Morris over at St. Neots who are very knowledgeable, I went to them but because they couldn't use my parts the cost got a bit too high for a prop that is just 300mm long. I ended up contacting a guy on the other forum who has a place next door to where he works, they made me a prop with all new parts including the slip yolk cheaper than Bailey Morris even with postage. I only had to give the length between the end of the gearbox and the face of the diff for them to sort it out.
Alternatively a local engineering shop might be able to do it for you but not sure about the balancing side of things.

Torment
28-08-19, 07:43 AM
Maybe loads to do but already loads done, the photo's with the carbs back on look great.

As to propshafts, there is Bailey Morris over at St. Neots who are very knowledgeable, I went to them but because they couldn't use my parts the cost got a bit too high for a prop that is just 300mm long. I ended up contacting a guy on the other forum who has a place next door to where he works, they made me a prop with all new parts including the slip yolk cheaper than Bailey Morris even with postage. I only had to give the length between the end of the gearbox and the face of the diff for them to sort it out.
Alternatively a local engineering shop might be able to do it for you but not sure about the balancing side of things.
that would be mjc engineering,they made my prop on the altered...

fad15
28-08-19, 04:12 PM
Where did you get the jack ramps from. Got a feeling it will be the good old USofA.

fabphil
29-08-19, 12:53 PM
Where did you get the jack ramps from. Got a feeling it will be the good old USofA.

CJ Autos Ltd Heywood in Lancs :tup:
They've got loads of good stuff for home mechs.

https://www.cjautos.eu/product_p/cr012.htm

fad15
29-08-19, 06:28 PM
Ta.

fabphil
23-09-19, 12:48 PM
Only a little done over the last few weeks. Have got the engine wiring finished, all sensors, switches etc connected.
Just need to get a new alternator mount sorted. All the e-bay kits for a 460 Ford with electric water pump are low mount on the RHS.
Typically this is right where the chassis rail is so I need to have a high mount. The bracket I've already got is no good as the holes needed to mount in front of the electric pump don't line up with any existing and there's not enough material to drill any more. Looks like I need to get one laser cut to fit from 10mm ally.
The distributor is finally in. The Ford has a hex drive shaft from the dissy to the oil pump. This was dropped into place but because of the angle falls to the left.
The dissy wont fit over the shaft unless its almost vertical so had to place a large blob of moly grease to the LHS of the shaft to hold it in the middle then drop the dissy on. Result! Just don't want to have to remove it again. Went in with 14 degrees BTC.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d88be262bd5b.jpg

Spent a little time on the new seats as well. I've take off the corner at the top and bottom of the side panel. The shape was originally cut for ease of finding a U section edge to give me a friendly radius, but when you sat in it there was two very sharp corners just where you didn't want them. I'm now looking to split some 8/10mm copper heating pipe and fix that to follow the curves.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5d88be2657618.jpg

fabphil
15-10-19, 04:37 PM
Had a day off today so got some garage time :)
Decided to have a go at sorting out the drivers seat.
The riveting is a little messy in places but its' a first attempt but I'm happy with it.
Now got to find something to cover the sharp edges.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5da5f50f3028e.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5da5f5100a0e2.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5da5f5109496e.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5da5f510dd3b5.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5da5f510c8505.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5da5f510dba19.jpg

stilltrying
15-10-19, 06:06 PM
Just an observation, as you are doing this to comply with BIVA, what are you going to do for the pressed holes as the outside edges look to be fairly sharp from the photo's, or do these not get tested?

Nice to see some progress though:tup:

fabphil
16-10-19, 12:00 PM
Just an observation, as you are doing this to comply with BIVA, what are you going to do for the pressed holes as the outside edges look to be fairly sharp from the photo's, or do these not get tested?

Nice to see some progress though:tup:

Amazon provided the answer to that. I've got some U section rubber panel edging that is small enough to cover the cut edge.
If this is glued on it will pass the radius test.
The seat will also have cushions top and bottom. Seems a shame to have to cover the detail but I don't have a lot of padding on my backside so need some comfort :D

stilltrying
16-10-19, 05:32 PM
:tup:

fabphil
19-10-19, 07:51 PM
Manage to split the 8mm pipe OK to fit over the sharp edge on the sides of the seat but now the pipe is split it buckled on the bends and twisted and the split kept closing up. I'm normally a patient fella but the seat almost got thrown across the garage a couple of times! Then I cut one part to short! Gave up, I don't have the metalwork skills to sort the bends out, I tried but started to damage the ally panels.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab67530f8ac.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab67522b25b.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab67528d764.jpg

Went and found the rubber edging strip and used that instead!

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab6754d5771.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab6755e7326.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab675555d61.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5dab6757f00a7.jpg

Although not what I has first thought I'm happy with the finished article. Now for the other one!

fabphil
27-10-19, 09:53 PM
Grabbed an hour in the garage on Saturday and ended up with this. It's a Competition Engineering kit.
Had to find a smaller diameter main tube that fitted in the existing hole in the back of the car.
Just got to paint it up and find some 1/2" pins to secure it to the chassis.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5db61102d6247.jpg

stilltrying
28-10-19, 07:46 PM
Have I missed the fire up?

fabphil
28-10-19, 10:50 PM
Have I missed the fire up?

It went so fast I needed a chute to slow me down :lol:

No, just finding small jobs that need doing.

malamute john
07-11-19, 10:01 PM
Those seats look really cool...cant imagine them on a summers day over here tho! :D
Car is looking great.

fabphil
08-11-19, 01:11 PM
Those seats look really cool...cant imagine them on a summers day over here tho! :D
Car is looking great.

Getting there slowly.....
Seats will have cushions, my backside is to bony to do without :lol:

fabphil
25-11-19, 11:02 AM
Ended up modifying the parachute mount as it stuck out to far. It now sits much closer to the body
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb36e96c33.jpg

2 x 5/8" bolts to hold in in place. Its mounted firmly to the chassis so shouldn't just pull off when used.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb36ec409d.jpg

Then turned to the headers. Had sudden inspiration and remembered a pair I'd purchased years ago from E-bay.
Ended up not being able to use them. Although right for the engine they were for a 5 window which has shorter doors than the 3 window.
Thought I could cut of the flange and first couple of inches of pipe and weld on my headers.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb36ef4065.jpg

Compared flanges and the new headers are far bigger so that plan went out the window. Any one want to buy a pair of lake style headers for a big block Ford? :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb53066bed.jpg


Had a look at the construction of the new headers and had a thought. I cut the locating weld on the pipe side and chopped the tubes clean off the flange.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb5ec4c415.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb5ec36155.jpg

Now all I have to do is grind out the 8 holes and re fit the tubes at the correct angle!
If I bolt up the flange to the head to keep it flat I can then mock up the header position with the side pipe fitted and get all the angles right.
Do a locating weld on the outside of the tubes then rempove them do a continuous weld round the inside surface and grind all flat.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddbb5ec4d84a.jpg

Onward and upwards!

fabphil
27-11-19, 06:40 PM
Carbide burrs arrived today. Hope to be grinding at the weekend. Just got to get back to the flange (love that word :))
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ddec2cc73aaa.jpg

malamute john
28-11-19, 06:17 PM
You talented people...
[insert Smiley munching popcorn...]

fabphil
12-12-19, 09:05 PM
Many thanks to my American friend for sorting out a small but vital part I didn't realise I needed.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df2aacff03fb.jpg

Installed.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df2ab0439b5b.jpg

Now I can fit the 90 degree oil filter adaptor.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df2ab03da995.jpg

This allows me to fit a full size oil filter pointing forward rather than the short one used before as the distance between the block and chassis rail is very tight. Another box off the shelf :tup:

stilltrying
13-12-19, 09:25 AM
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df2ab03da995.jpg



You would have thought that Ford would have put the logo up the correct way at least:incheek:

fabphil
16-12-19, 09:46 AM
Got the side pipes and headers mocked up for placement Saturday, looks just how I wanted. One step forward :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df750786442b.jpg

Then two steps back :grr: Spot the problem!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df75077dc8cf.jpg
Looks like I'm going to have to cut out the front pipe, mount up the rest then manufacture a new pipe with some extra bends.
Thought I'd get away without any extra work....shoulda known!

Due to the curved nature of the chassis rails and door bottom the door scrapes on top of the side pipe so all will have to mount lower.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5df750786141f.jpg

Gave up at that point and went and had a cuppa tea :)

fad15
16-12-19, 11:57 AM
That's a shame they look really sodding good. I think I would be inclined to persuade the pipe to miss the door with a subtle, what shall we say: 'dent' and keep the line you have.

Done with a little 'finesse' it would look factory'

stilltrying
16-12-19, 06:56 PM
That's a sod about the front pipe, but looks like you could cut the bottom bend off and shorten to be in line with the one closer to the block and then mate the new position to the outlet from the head.

With uncle fad on the door issue but would need to be "rolled" nicely to look right. Having agreed on that I can't tell if you have actually welded the headers to the flange or not, if not then maybe a little lower would be the easier way out as it looks to only need a small drop to miss or is that an illusion?

fabphil
16-12-19, 10:12 PM
Headers aren't welded yet so may still have some wriggle room.

Dunxster
17-12-19, 01:55 PM
Could you shorten the horizontal section of the front header pipe to bring the downward section back and have it sit above/over the second header pipe, thus creating enough room?

fabphil
18-12-19, 12:46 PM
Could you shorten the horizontal section of the front header pipe to bring the downward section back and have it sit above/over the second header pipe, thus creating enough room?

Problem is if I go back along the tube to far I can't get access to weld due to the other tubes. It's gonna take some thinking.

stilltrying
18-12-19, 06:41 PM
I can see that is a problem, thinking out of the box or talking bollocks, if you cut a section out of the front/side of that particular tube you could then weld the far side from the inside, then weld the cut-out section back in and grind and smooth so no-one would notice. Having written that it sounds so easy:lol: anyway just a thought.

fabphil
31-12-19, 05:33 PM
Got some half days in the garage over the hols. Log burner fired up favourite film on the TV, whats not to love :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b82592dede.jpg
Fabricated new transmission mount (on bench).

Painted up and fitted. Trans is now self supporting all ratchet straps removed.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b8259bf189.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b82595c92a.jpg

Checked angles at trans. 3.1 degrees, almost perfect.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b825aed24c.jpg

Angle at pinion is 1.5 degrees down. Looks like I need to lengthen the lower bars on the 4 link to increase the angle to 3 degrees. Then in theory as power is applied the trans rotates up and the angle moves towards 0 degrees.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b825b29cd6.jpg

Its great how a company sells you all the stuff needed for the job. Then when you try and fit it, it doesn't fit!
The screw thread fouls the trans scatter shield strap. Fitted ball and socket to outside and cut of thread shorter now have 2mm clearance.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b825b5ad47.jpg

The cable holder bracket also wont fit as the other strap is in the way.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e0b825cf0c12.jpg
Looks like I can use part of the cable clamp and fit to the outside of the shield strap using some 20mm spacers.

fabphil
13-01-20, 12:38 PM
Not done much for the last two weekends.
I have been having a real issue trying to get the header/ exhaust angles and alignment right.

The side pipe needs to follow the chassis rail so is to close at the header end. This means loads more work than I ever thought playing around with the header pipes.To move things on I'm going to re-fit the old headers and exhaust even though this will not be great for performance.

When I eventually have some spare cash :lol: looks like I will get a set of custom headers made by someone who knows what they are doing!

stilltrying
13-01-20, 06:47 PM
Not sure why, but I missed your 31st. Dec post. It's bloody annoying when you buy stuff that should work and it doesn't, been there and done that and will undoubtedly do it again as we have no option but to believe what they say will fit does. Having said that it does in the end only because we make it fit!!!!!

I feel your pain about the headers, I was looking for a fabricator for the T headers, they don't come cheap that is for sure. I saw a place in Bicester Heritage Ryan something, work looks good the other guy I have seen work done is Wayne at ODDrods. I have stopped looking as I might have found a solution for the T but only time will tell.

fad15
13-01-20, 07:38 PM
What headers are you looking at. I may be able to help.
G

fabphil
14-01-20, 10:02 AM
What headers are you looking at. I may be able to help.
G

The headers I have are Schoenfeld 2 1/8" primary tubes into a 4" collector for a Ford Cobra Jet head.
Due to the angle of the chassis narrowing towards the front the side pipe sits a couple of inches away from the collector.
There is too much work involved for me to get things to line up so will need to have them built from scratch.

fad15
14-01-20, 04:46 PM
Sorry. I thought it was someone else. I have seen your posts about the headers with that annoying bit where the wheel is in the wrong place for the headers:grr:

fad15
14-01-20, 04:47 PM
Sorry. I thought you were someone else (old and doddery these days). I have seen your posts about the headers with that annoying bit where the wheel is in the wrong place for the headers:grr:

stilltrying
15-01-20, 02:59 PM
Hey Fabphil, if you had stretched the front end to fit the 6/71 you wouldn't have the issue of the wheel/tyre interference, just saying.:incheek: Ok I know, I''l get my coat now.

As another thought, as you have already buggered the headers somewhat, why not cut them up, position them wherever they will work, tack weld them in place and then go to someone to finish them off, the fact that you can't get all the way round the pipe to weld doesn't mean that there are no other alternatives such as maybe solid welding between the individual pipes where they meet all the way back to the collector and then plug welding inbetween the four pipes from the front, if that makes sense. If it doesn't make sense let me know and I will do a quick sketch of what I'm on about. Solid welding or seem welding along the pipes would be seen but if someone is good at welding it would look cool.

fabphil
15-01-20, 07:49 PM
Hey Fabphil, if you had stretched the front end to fit the 6/71 you wouldn't have the issue of the wheel/tyre interference, just saying.:incheek:

Good to see you've been paying attention :)

I've spent too much time on them to continue and not got anywhere, so moving on to the new prop shaft.

fabphil
22-01-20, 11:23 AM
Just dropped off the U/J's, end plates and sliding yoke at Bailey Morris for them to turn into a prop shaft.
Should be ready next week, welded up, balanced and painted.

fabphil
27-01-20, 04:01 PM
Had a few hours over the weekend.
Big thanks to Serck Motorsports for sorting out the rad for me.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e2c84e254ee3.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e2c84e1d3e10.jpg

Finally found the K&N oil filter I ordered three years ago! Got the sandwich plate in, mounted up and plumbed in the oil cooler.
It almost looks like I planned how it fits :lol:
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e2c8571f2d78.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e2cb2b117c2c.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e2cb2d6acb67.jpg

stilltrying
27-01-20, 05:15 PM
Coming along nicely:tup:

fabphil
07-02-20, 08:43 AM
Well after a bit to to and fro with the prop shaft here it is
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3d1f0645cb6.jpg
Just got to see if it fits now!

I'd ordered up a black silicon bottom rad hose and look what arrived, right shape wrong colour.
Looks a bit out of place.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3d1f065c3f4.jpg

Have to return for a refund and order another. Another week gone! The correct colour arrived this time. Looks better.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3d1f0695399.jpg

While I was waiting I had a look at the bear claw latches. These have been on the list of todos for a while.
The original builder or some other owner had fitted them in upside down so you have to lift the door handle to get in.
Everyone naturally pushes down on the lever so its got a bit sloppy over the years.
The catches have had mis matching panels, one ally, one stainless riveted over them.
I drilled these off and look what I found...
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3d1f07a5dfc.jpg
They have been well butchered the welding also leaves a lot to be desired looks like a seagull had a dump!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3d1f078a0c0.jpg

I've got a piece of 2mm steel plate to make new panels for ether side. These hopefully will be welded in properly and smoothed into the door, not just covered over.

On to the alternator bracket.
I decided that I could use the existing bracket as a template for the new one.
Spoke to Paul at Wheng parts who was really helpful, but unfortunately as is the way these days to have something custom made in the UK just works out expensive. Taking into account time on CAD, the alloy needed, machining, postage and VAT it would have come out at 130.00!!!
The original cost 45 shipped from Australia. Again the Chinese have a lot to answer for...
Found the ally plate I need at the Aluminium Warehouse which just happens to be 10 minutes down the road.
18.00 for the plate, just got to get it to the right shape now :)
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3d1f069165e.jpg

fad15
07-02-20, 12:05 PM
Can't remember if you have a prop safety loop. If not now's the time to put one near to the diff joint.
G

stilltrying
07-02-20, 05:04 PM
With Uncle Fad on that, only because the horses you are going to be going with will be much more than original. I saw a prop break at the pod once and the gut had a full bodied car (steel) and it ripped through the floor and hit the side of his crash hat, all ok but scary to say the least.

fad15
07-02-20, 07:16 PM
UJs with U bolts are know to fail....

fabphil
07-02-20, 07:35 PM
The rear of the chassis was built by Hausers back in the late 90's if my paper work is to be believed. They seem to have done a good job.
There is a safety loop just back from the trans end and the shaft goes through a protection built into the chassis.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3dba887a694.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3dba88dd5db.jpg

New prop in place.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e3dba88f3ec9.jpg

I did have some Moroso ally caps for the rear U/J but they turned out to be too small so using U bolts for the moment.

Working out the pinion angle, looks like I have 0.8 degrees between the shaft and the pinion at present.
My book says can be up to 7 degrees for 800 - 1000hp.
Now I can move the lower 4 bar links down and the axle will rotate to the correct position.
The mounting pads for the wheelie bars will then be in the correct place! Almost like I planned it :tup:

fad15
08-02-20, 11:29 AM
Great stuff.

stilltrying
08-02-20, 08:43 PM
That looks tuff enough:tup:

fabphil
18-02-20, 03:03 PM
OK time for some metalwork. Starting with a new sheet of ally.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e4bfab9ba456.jpg

Drew round existing bracket.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e4bfab9ba37e.jpg

Drilled some holes.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e4bfaba27695.jpg

Did some jigsawing- couple of blades later.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e4bfaba28304.jpg

Just got to sort out the tension slot at the top abd belt sand the edge to the profile.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e4bfaba3e714.jpg

Finished, just got to give it a quick polish. Took 2 hours start to finish.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e4bfc4b4c5a9.jpg

Now got to find some 7/8" spacers to get the right alignment for the belt.

fabphil
23-02-20, 03:32 PM
Alternator in :tup:
Had to mess around with threaded rod and spacers as couldn't find bolts long enough over here.
Now have the belt on order.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e529ab0ca60d.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e529ab0ca5fe.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e529ab1847f9.jpg

stilltrying
23-02-20, 06:02 PM
Excellent, great to see some progress pictures, must be getting close to bedding in the cam:tup:

fabphil
07-03-20, 05:24 PM
Finally managed to mount up one of the headlight stands. Think it looks about right.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e63d80346b95.jpg

The small lamps at the top of the stand are front indicator and daylight running light. DRL=just because I can :)
The stand had to be mounted on an ally wedge as the chassis rail starts to slope down at that point.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e63d80364e9d.jpg

stilltrying
07-03-20, 07:02 PM
Closer and closer:tup:

fabphil
09-03-20, 10:02 AM
Bit of polishing done. Not gone to mad just polished up the rough casting a bit.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e6613f57db70.jpg

fad15
09-03-20, 10:29 AM
You bought the best polisher you can get for 240v. I have the same one.


http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/1/1/5/115_5e661a6506ce3.jpg

fabphil
09-03-20, 10:31 AM
:tup:

stilltrying
09-03-20, 05:47 PM
ooooh get you two:lol: I'm still using elbow grease:tdown: but have just bought a sandblasting cabinet, collect it Thursday:tup:

fabphil
14-04-20, 11:13 AM
Bit more done over the Easter weekend...not as if I could do much else at the moment anyway ;)
Have been looking at the windscreen wiper requirements for BIVA. The original motor is a single speed wiper mounted on the screen above the driver.
BIVA needs minimum two wipers and dual speeds.
I have a kit from Car Builder Solutions with all the parts but they aren't going to fit above the windscreen due to steel frame work, cable ducts and the fitting of the roll cage eventually. Looks like I'm going to have to convert to scuttle mount and possibly add a third wiper (like some Morgans!)

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e959b6442b27.jpg

The glass on mine top to bottom measures 6 1/2 ".

fabphil
17-04-20, 08:26 PM
Bit more playing this afternoon.
Dug out the glass front fenders and bent the original brackets to fit. Passenger side done.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e8fd26e5.jpg

Then got onto the wipers. I've been putting this off for a long time but surprisingly all went easily.
I found an old Minor wiper arm in my bits box and shortened it down as far as I could.
When I get the sweep right I'll order some new ones.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e8fd66af.jpg

50mm wheel box from CBS. I'm going to need three of them now.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e922a523.jpg

Wheel box mounted up under scuttle.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e91bf01a.jpg

Got the bundy tube fitted from motor to first and second wheel box, waiting for the third box to arrive.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e96d2af2.jpg

The sweep will need some fine tuning when all the bits arrive, but it's looking good so far.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e950ebec.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5e9a0e96a47ce.jpg

Have connected a battery and got two speeds working now...result :tup:

jsf55
18-04-20, 07:04 PM
I've just redone the pop ones, i found, by luck i had a 125 degree wheel in the wiper box and it gave great coverage, i got video up on instagram, madfrankyfraser if your on there?

fabphil
19-04-20, 06:51 PM
/\/\ Will have a look at that, cheers.
Got the washers fitted today. I'm using a 1ltr alloy water bottle as a reservoir, a small external inline pump and a dual washer jets on the scuttle.

stilltrying
19-04-20, 07:15 PM
Coming along nicely, Check to see what number of sweeps per minute the motor will do as well as two speed. Not 100% as it has been a good few years but thought the tester I had actually counted the number of sweeps in a minute, could be bull as my memory is ……………………………..err what was that?

jsf55
20-04-20, 10:36 PM
I thought it was flashes per minute for indicators ? 60-120, dont ever remember wipers being counted :confused:

fabphil
21-04-20, 08:30 AM
I thought it was flashes per minute for indicators ? 60-120, dont ever remember wipers being counted :confused:
From the BIVA manual :)

1. The vehicle must be fitted with a windscreen washer and wiper system sufficient
to give the driver an adequate view of the road.
2. All front wipers must continue to move automatically over the swept area of the
windscreen (see Note 1)
3. All front wipers must have at least two sweep frequencies one of which must be
of at least 45 cycles/min. (see Note 2)
4. Additional Sweep frequencies must be of not less than 10 and not more than 55
cycles/minute (see Note 1)
5. The difference between the highest and at least one of the lower sweep
frequencies must be at least 15 cycles/minute (see Note 2)
6. All front wipers must return automatically to a position of rest which is at or
beyond the outer edge of the swept area
7. All front wipers must be capable of being lifted from the windscreen to allow for
cleaning of the windscreen.
8. The windscreen washer system must provide enough liquid to adequately clear
the windscreen in conjunction with the wipers
9. The windscreen washer system must have a reservoir capacity of at least 1 litre
10. The windscreen washer system must be able to withstand the load applied
when the nozzles are blocked and the system is operated for 3 – 5 seconds

fad15
21-04-20, 09:57 AM
Unless you have a split screen, in which case they are not needed.

fabphil
24-04-20, 08:16 AM
Unless you have a split screen, in which case they are not needed.

Think that might be opening screen :)

The annoying thing is I have a couple of original build pictures that show the car with a chrome framed opening screen.
At some point this has been removed and a flat piece of glass with a rubber surround fitted.
Thats another thing that need attending to as there is no marking on the glass.
I've got a green tinted screen from a Defender to have cut down to fit when I get round to it. Will also look a changing the rubber surround or getting the new glass bonded in.

fabphil
24-04-20, 08:31 AM
Started on the washers. Drilled out the spout of the bottle to 6mm and fed the clear hose to the bottom.
The bottle will be held on the passinger kick panel with a bike water bottle cage.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea2a2602c172.jpg
There is a small inline pump up under the scuttle with a non-return valve in the hose.
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea2a260da13c.jpg

Then bit the bullit and connected a 12v supply to the fuse panel input and tested all the wiring!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea2a260e0f74.jpg

Switches all work, lights all work, indicators, DLRs working, wipers (2 speeds). All good so far only found one problem with the N2O arming (I'd forgotten to run 12v ignition to the Leash controller. Did that and now the solenoids all click when the WOT switch is closed. Purge sols also work :tup:

stilltrying
24-04-20, 01:42 PM
Ever closer:tup:

fad15
24-04-20, 03:13 PM
Looking good.

I said split screen because it can be folded out of the eye line of the driver and therefore offers no impediment to the vision of the driver. The fact you cant see shit for woods, due to the stinging rain in your eyes doesn't seem to come into it.Not sure an opening screen meets the requirement, but hey ho, if it does that takes a lot of headaches and unnecessary work away.
G

fabphil
29-04-20, 11:57 AM
When testing the electrics the screen demister was only blowing cold air. I need warm for the BIVA.
Guess what? The heater circuit was broken. Traced to the silver and blue item open circuit. If linked out the element got so hot it smoked!
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea9699759b61.jpg
Can't get just the part so had to visit the bay again and get a good one that blows warm air. All in and working now.

Next up dropped the trans pan to fit the temp sensor. Drilled and tapped a 1/8NPT hole. Fitted.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea9699853a22.jpg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea96998415b1.jpg

Then noticed the trans fluid dipstick was only just showing through the tube.
The low mark lines up with the top of the pan.
Gerry can you advise where the high and low marks should sit approx. The box is a TH400 with deep pan.
I don't want to put too much fluid in when I fill up for the first time.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ea96997b7ff7.jpg

fad15
29-04-20, 02:08 PM
Almost all autos run a fluid level of just above the sump to block line (cold) So yours it would seem is about right. I did my 350 side fill to this level.

First fill goes...
fill to the bottom mark of the dip stick with the motor not running. Anywhere between 4 and 6 litres (dont know how big your sump is).
Once at the bottom mark fire it up in Park. Keep adding fluid, until its at the bottom mark of the dip stick. The biggest mistake people make is not getting a CLEAN level line on the dip stick. You need to dip, wipe, dip, wipe until you get a clean level line, the same on both sides of the dip stick.
The problem is that the dip stick will pick up fluid thats in the tube and give a false reading. (I dip the 5 speed mercs up to 20 times to get a clean line on their sticks)
Keep adding until you see the level come onto the dip stick and then up to the bottom mark. Once its there get in the car and with your foot on the brake shift it into D 2 1 D R; 2 or 3 times. Go back check the level. If OK run it around the block and check it again.Should be just over the bottom mark.

Thats the way we do it. We never pre fill the TC as they always have some fluid in from the rebuild and they are the first thing that get fluid...

If you have a thermostatic valve on the cooler lines you may have to add 1/2 litre or so once the trans is up to temp and the valve opens.

Course there is the other way of throwing 7-8 litres in it and going for a drive......:whack:

G

stilltrying
29-04-20, 05:46 PM
Well that has answered one of my up and coming questions, cheers both:tup:

fabphil
30-04-20, 11:05 AM
Many thanks G.
I'm still away off taking it round the block but just want to start getting some fluids in.

fabphil
03-05-20, 06:18 PM
Found a 'new' Mini handbrake on the shelf today, so stripped it down and tried it in place.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5eaf097129987.jpg

This has actually solved a problem as the shifter needs to sit where the old Lockar handbrake was.
The Lockar handle was very low to the floor and the shifter would not sit in place where I could reach it when strapped in the seat.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5eaf09707439f.jpg

As the Mini brake lever is higher I can move the lever back between the seats and still get to it and the shifter now sits in reach. It also meets all the BIVA radius rules...result :tup:

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5eaf097143e4c.jpg

stilltrying
03-05-20, 06:57 PM
Do you require a hand brake light for BIVA? very easy to sort if you do. You can now sell the lokar one to get some pennies back:lol:

fabphil
10-05-20, 07:01 PM
Do you require a hand brake light for BIVA?
Don't actually need one for BIVA, you just need a fluid warning light and test switch for the lamp. The mini lever has a switch so I've connected it as well :)

fabphil
10-05-20, 07:22 PM
Had to re-visit somewhere I'd rather not have gone today!

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5eb84fe82dabc.jpeg

When I was originally building the engine I built it upside down on a stand then rotated it right way up.
The oil pump was already in, I dropped the oil pump drive shaft down the hole and all aligned, the dissy was fitted and all was well.

Yesterday I filled the engine with oil for the first time, then tried to use the correct drive tool in a hand drill to prime the block and heads.

The drill started to smell of burning as the load was so great!

Pulled out the drive tool to check all was well, then had an idea to use the starter motor to turn over the engine to prime it.

Checked all electrical connections, connected battery, ignition on....press start switch... and the engine turned over beautifully.

Then realised the dissy had to be back in as the cam drives the oil drive shaft :slap:

Couldn't get the dissy back in as when I pulled the drive tool off the shaft it pulled the drive shaft out the top of the oil pump and wedged it in the block. The shaft normally drops into the pan!

Had to drain out all the oil I'd just put in and drop the pan.
Oil pump out, and remove the drive shaft.

I wondered what the star washer was on the drive shaft for when I removed it :surprised: Now I know for next time.

Reversed all above and I'm back to where I was Saturday morning!

Still got to find a way of getting the oil in the pan without having to remove the dissy.

As the heads slope I can't just pour the oil in the head as the rocker covers aren't fitted yet.

Onwards and upwards....

stilltrying
11-05-20, 05:35 PM
OOOps! That used to happen to my old Essex 3l V6, once bought a second hand unit for pennies so checked the bottom end to make sure the ends and mains were ok only to find a "spare" oil pump drive shaft in the sump.

As to oil, could you not use a tube and funnel arrangement to fill oil down one of the heads oil return ports?

fabphil
11-05-20, 07:24 PM
Have found a funnel with a long corrugated nozzle so will try that. Going to take some time though as the oil return in the head is only 1/2" wide.

fabphil
12-05-20, 06:27 PM
Funnel worked but took almost half an hour to get 5 litres of oil in.
Turned the electrics back on and pressed the start button...nothing!
Checked all the cables disconnected to drop the oil pan, all connected.
Then remembered I'd wired in the neutral safety switch...guess what the shifter was in N :slap:
Moved back to park pressed start and the motor turned over :tup:
Cranked it a bit, oil light went out at 15psi and after approx 5 or 6 seconds had 40psi on the gauge, result.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ebaea6c6fff3.jpeg
Oil present at rockers.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ebaea6c638f9.jpeg
Girdle back on.

Filling the trans tomorrow...

fad15
12-05-20, 06:36 PM
Dont overfill the trans unless you can fire it up and fill the TC n clutches....

fabphil
12-05-20, 07:14 PM
Thanks Gerry.

The TC has 2 quarts in already so was just going to fill till I saw the fluid on the bottom of the stick.
Then top up when the motor fires up.

Just thinking about my previous post.
The engine should have started in N as the neutral safety switch should be closed.
Just gone out and checked...the Winters shifter I'm using has a neutral slot with a left/right movement.
Looks like the switch needs a small adjustment as it works on one side of the gate but not on the other.
Note made to move the switch position.

stilltrying
12-05-20, 07:29 PM
http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ebaea6c6fff3.jpeg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ebaea6c638f9.jpeg

That is just pure engine porn right there:tup:

fabphil
19-05-20, 08:32 AM
Well didn't get round to putting any trans fluid in yet.
Got side tracked into fitting the seats.
It took two days faffing around to figure out the mountings.
Was looking at welding in steel re-enforcing plates under the steel floor but there are so many spurs and brackets already welded to the chassis from the original build the plates would not fit.
Eventually found eight points on the chassis that I could mount some uni-strut to positioned across the car.
The sliders then mounted front to back on top of the uni-strut.
There's a small bit of fiddling to do but the seats are mounted.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ec39857c2770.jpeg

For those wondering about the bomber seat I made earlier, after sitting in it for a while in the car it became fairly obvious that if racing and some thing happened it would not be strong enough.
The new seats are fibreglass buckets that have an integrated headrest and harness slots so all round are a better solution even if they don't look as cool. They are a lot lighter than the BMW seats I tried last year.

Then I took the passenger seat out to move the handbrake lever again and try and fit the shifter housing in the gap between the seats.
It has a very precise location as the throw of the lever is quite long so I need to be able to reach Park when strapped in the seat and also not bang my arm on the seat when selecting 3rd gear.

On to the trans fluid.
A TH400 has to be filled via the dipstick tube. I have a nice Lockar braided stainless tube that the funnel doesn't fit in!
The story continues.....

Torment
19-05-20, 12:15 PM
how about an air/electric solenoid on the shifter for racing..i have one on the bantam..its bolted to the shifter linkage at to box end..dead light,works off air,shifts using a chip in the msd..(rpm activated)

fabphil
19-05-20, 08:19 PM
how about an air/electric solenoid on the shifter for racing..i have one on the bantam..its bolted to the shifter linkage at to box end..dead light,works off air,shifts using a chip in the msd..(rpm activated)

Just had a look.... but it looks like the Winters shifter can't use air due to the gate design. Its also more dosh :)
I've already got a Hurst pistol grip for the C6 box I'm not using any more. So don't want to go there yet...may be next year.

fabphil
19-05-20, 08:23 PM
Oil transfer pump arrived today so managed to get 2.5 ltrs of diff oil into the 9".
Filled until the oil came back out the side fill hole on the centre section.

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ec43ff6b62ee.jpeg

http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/5/6/1/561_5ec43fdd2af7b.jpeg

Moved hand brake lever 2" over and had a play with shifter height and position.

stilltrying
20-05-20, 08:36 AM
Getting ever closer:tup: