View Full Version : 79 vette clean up

15-04-18, 06:45 PM
Well, today I was informed that my eldest daughters wedding is just over three months away and the vette is meant to be the wedding car, she went to her school prom in it and always wanted to use it for her wedding.

It was used up to about 5 years ago when, because of one thing and another and the clutch starting to slip when hefted, it was just parked up in the garden and left.

I had been buying bits as and when I saw things at the right price so a fair few items have been stock piled, however the car has not faired well and all the breaks are stuck, the clutch is stuck, the rats and mice have had a field day, most of the instruments don't work and the indicator stalk is very limp wristed. The chassis used to be really nice but now has masses of surface rust, nothing major but not nice looking if you get under it. The bodywork has seen better days, the front and rear bumper pieces have cracks in them, paint is blistered where the cover instead of allowing the body to breath looks like it has trapped moisture. The door locks had jammed and I had to tare the inner panels off to get to the mechanisms to open the doors. The birdcage looks ok, there is a bit of movement between the front of the doors and the rear of the front wings if you jack the car up but nothing too onerous I don't think.

The engine had to be started in the time honoured way of pouring fuel down the carb, but fired up straight away and once fuel from the tank got lifted by the pump it ticked over nicely with good oil pressure and no over heating.

I would ideally like to have removed the body from the frame and done the whole thing right from the off, however I know from past experience that that route would mean I would miss the wedding by maybe one or two years:tdown:

So the plan is to remove the engine, clean up the engine bay and the engine, add some of the bits I have bought for it such as the new dual plane inlet, rebuild the carb, fit ally rocker covers and a new ally air cleaner, fit the headers (going by MJ's previous header stories I might be in for some serious pain in that area, as I bought a set of stainless ones from a guy who said he thought they came off a vette, we will have to wait and see). Fit a new clutch, unseize the brake and clutch pedals, respray the car, buy some door cards and refit the interior as well as get all the bits that don't work working, electric windows, central locking, heater etc.

As with everything I do I am usually late but decided to start today, this got delayed till this afternoon as we had to do the Easter egg hunt (told you I am late for everything:lol:), so off came the bonnet and I started to get things removed in readiness for lifting the engine out but after getting soaked due to rain I stopped before I could unbolt the bellhousing.

This will also delay the T yet again, but hopefully one car will get done for this year. I will post some photo's and keep you all posted on progress as and when.:tup:

15-04-18, 06:50 PM
Brave man! Thats a lot to do.Me, I would just attend to the outside and clean the interior but hey; go for it.

15-04-18, 09:02 PM
Very brave man. Brakes if left idle for long periods are always an issue with Vettes. Best budget for 4 new calipers and hope discs are not too badly rusted (same with brake lines) parking brake components usually seize up too, especially on auto's. Vettes don't like being kept in damp conditions. Floor pans and radiator lower support are known areas for rust on late 70's Vettes

16-04-18, 08:16 PM
Brave man! Thats a lot to do.Me, I would just attend to the outside and clean the interior but hey; go for it.

That is basically what I am doing but adding a bit to the engine as I have to replace the clutch whatever happens.

Very brave man. Brakes if left idle for long periods are always an issue with Vettes. Best budget for 4 new calipers and hope discs are not too badly rusted (same with brake lines) parking brake components usually seize up too, especially on auto's. Vettes don't like being kept in damp conditions. Floor pans and radiator lower support are known areas for rust on late 70's Vettes

From what I have seen so far the floor pans look fine, it's a manual but to be honest the handbrake was always pants even at the best of times, no chance of doing a handbrake turn that is for sure:lol:

16-04-18, 08:29 PM
So no photo's just yet but as said above these things do not like been left idle, everything has surface rust on it plus I am finding stuff that the previous owner had "made good", nothing major just little things like joining petrol pipes when a single piece would have been no cost at all. Bear in mind though that I have had this thing for about 12 years or maybe a little more and only replaced the alternator belt twice in that time (I now know why they broke:tup:) and redone the power steering ram (wasn't needed in the end as I completely crushed the high pressure pipe when doing doughnuts one day ooops) so whatever is found will get replaced or repaired.

Didn't have much time this evening to do much as work got in the way, but I did manage to get all the bellhousing bolts undone and the exhaust down pipes, just need to remove the power steering pump, clutch release, engine mounts and a few wires and it should be good to remove:tup:

17-04-18, 05:32 AM
You'll have the joy of people saying "at least they don't rust". How little they know!

17-04-18, 06:55 PM
You'll have the joy of people saying "at least they don't rust". How little they know!

Well the later 70's ones as you are aware had steel floors. Thankfully had another go at it today and looked at the floors and all are fine no rust anywhere so that is good, just the frame is covered in surface rust and which when I decided to look at putting it back on the road I was going to remove the body and get it blasted and then I could paint it and do a proper job but as I said earlier that would probably delay things too much so a quick wire brush and some paint will have to suffice for now and maybe sometime in the future I will do it properly.

My efforts today means that the engine is ready to pull, all bolts, cables, hoses etc. etc. are completely disconnected including the engine mounts, was going to pull it tonight but would rather have a bit more daylight time than I have left this evening so if work dies off tomorrow then it will be out, if not it will have to wait till Friday.

I did notice that the front upper and lower wishbone bushes are perished so new ones of those will be required as will a new clutch operating arm to firewall boot. I have a feeling rockauto are going to be making a bigger profit this year:lol:

17-04-18, 09:18 PM
Some people just don't want an easy life :giggle:
You'll probably have it finished before mine.
Crack on.......

18-04-18, 04:59 AM
The birdcage and the rear chassis kick ups are rust prone. A mate had a C3 that creaked when we drove it, he put it down to a suspension bush but it was sharper than that. The chassis was creaking.

18-04-18, 04:07 PM
Only time will tell on that one, bloody hope all is ok, well at least for this bloody wedding.:crazy:

18-04-18, 08:56 PM
Well as promised here are some photo's of the engine removal, this did not go exactly to plan and when reinstalling I will have to think of another system, all will become clear honest.

Just removed the bonnet

After removing the plastic snorkel intake tube it was obvious that this engine had been out before as it looks suspiciously like whoever dropped the engine on the radiator support frame, not a big issue and will be beaten to within an inch of it's life back into shape.

Radiator, air con rad and radiator support were removed next.

This is what happens when you leave your car in the garden for a few years:tdown:

It became very obvious very quickly that my engine crane was not the ideal piece of kit for removing an engine from a corvette, I had even thought of removing the front nose to gain some much needed movement rearwards, however this was not going to help one little bit so a bodge was in order and a lot of jacking up letting down, removing wheels and axle stands ensued for the next half an hour.









and finally we have it out and on the engine stand

The clutch was well past it's sell by date, not helped by a little bit of oil contamination which will need further investigation, the flywheel is in good shape and the release bearing is buggered.

The final issue I had was attaching the engine to the engine stand, it was like one of those metal puzzles you used to get a christmas time, not overly impressed with it to be honest, I did have the big block mopar on it for sometime and it was fine but it only just fits the small block, I nearly gave up on it but at the end of the day it is now on there, just hope it stays there:lol:

So finally got something done, but will be thinking of a different way of getting the thing back in, two A frames and a beam would be the easiest method but I don't have one to hand so will have to conjure up something else.

19-04-18, 05:17 AM
Surprised that you had trouble with the engine stand and a SBC.
Amazing how much that had deteriorated!

19-04-18, 07:56 AM
Surprised that you had trouble with the engine stand and a SBC.
Amazing how much that had deteriorated!

You and me both on both items, the stand is the heavy duty one so thought that would be no issues heyho it's on there now just not as secure as I think it should be.

The deterioration must have been from the car cover, it was a proper outdoor breathable one, won't be using one of those again that is for sure.

19-04-18, 08:04 AM
You need to use an extended reach engine crane on Vettes. Imagine how much more difficult it is with a big block!

19-04-18, 05:43 PM
These days, seeing an engine looking so sad would deflate me. I know its just cosmetic but the work it takes to make it look good, is not trivial. I spent 6 weeks smoothing and painting the block on the T.

Credit to you though, you are getting it done. Dad comes through again, and so we should.....

19-04-18, 06:47 PM
You need to use an extended reach engine crane on Vettes. Imagine how much more difficult it is with a big block!

I know you do but that is the only crane I have, however I have a cunning plan for the reinstall but will have to get the lad involved to guide it home as I will be driving the JCB, that has enough reach:D

19-04-18, 06:51 PM
These days, seeing an engine looking so sad would deflate me. I know its just cosmetic but the work it takes to make it look good, is not trivial. I spent 6 weeks smoothing and painting the block on the T.

Credit to you though, you are getting it done. Dad comes through again, and so we should.....

It does look sad but as most of it will be largely hidden I will give it a clean and some black paint (yes I know it should be blue but I am going black). Plus the shiny bits and it will go back in, it ran very well and as it will never be a drag car or race car I think with the upgrades it will be ok on the street and keep up with most of the traffic:D

20-04-18, 05:01 AM
Yeah it certainly looks like it has sweated.

20-04-18, 08:44 PM
Not much happened today, as the lads car needed some attention which took me away from the vette, but I did strip off the exhausts, inlet manifold and other bits and pieces and managed to degrease it and throw some paint on, I used etching primer for the base and then just a black gloss rattle can for the top coat. Not going to last long I have no doubt but I still haven't sorted out a compressor.

On other news, I have just bought a second hand complete exhaust with headers that came of a 74 vette so hopefully with that and the other two sets of headers I have I might just get an exhaust to fit that doesn't scrape the ground. (I bought a set of stainless headers from a guy who said they were on a vette for about 20 miles and then removed, think they may have been a bit low).

One other thing was that when I removed the rocker covers and the inlet manifold, the inside of the engine looked nice and clean:tup: more tomorrow hopefully plus some photo's.

20-04-18, 09:15 PM
C3 chassis is of the day - I.e 'flexible' - creaking when the T tops are in place is normal. Remove T tops and loose the creaking.

21-04-18, 05:51 AM
C3 chassis is of the day - I.e 'flexible' - creaking when the T tops are in place is normal. Remove T tops and loose the creaking.

The one I referred to had a special reason for creaking Ross. It was called 'detached kickup syndrome'.

21-04-18, 08:37 PM
A bit done today but not as much as hoped due to not being able to find some of the gaskets I know I have somewhere (my garage is a major tip so only me to blame).

Here is the next engine crane.

Surprised this still worked as well as it did.

The outside was not pretty but the inside was looking a whole lot better:D


I had a few sets of rocker covers that I bought a long time ago (20 plus years) for another project so I dug them out and plonked them on, sort of liked both then realised that one set was for a very early chevy where the oil filler is a tube sticking up from the front of the inlet manifold so will be going with the set that I can fill oil easily, will need to source a couple of oil filler caps but hopefully that won't be an issue.


The pile of scrap is getting bigger:D

The eagle eyed amongst you might have noticed that the inlet manifold is sprayed silver, something I didn't realise when I bought it off ebay.com, anyway I will probably get it vapour blasted which should return it to it's natural state.

Although things are getting fitted I now realise that some of the stuff I have bought will not fit, such as the gilmer drive for the alternator, so I will now have to source a twin groove water pump pulley.:tdown:

On the up side, after fitting the ali timing cover I noticed that the original water pump would need spacers to miss the timing cover, however in my pile of parts bought years ago was a new water pump, this by fluke fitted without modification:tup:

Off on a silly round trip tomorrow to collect the exhaust so nothing will get done for a short while. I do have a couple of questions for those in the know but will post in the tech area.
That's all for now.

21-04-18, 11:09 PM
All inlet manifolds seem to be spayed silver - it helps to disguise how poor the sand casting is visually - lets hope there hasn't been core shifts and the inlet ports are correctly aligned.

23-04-18, 08:47 PM
No works as such but I collected the second hand exhaust yesterday and I will have to fit the mild steel headers and not the stainless steel ones.

The exhaust I have just collected came off a 74 L82 manual car so I know it will fit and will not scrape on the ground, I placed the shiny stainless headers next to the steel ones and they are the best part of 3" lower then the steel ones:tdown: but at least I know.

The stainless steel ones were supposedly fitted to a vette, must have been driven really slowly not to hit the road with them.

Anyway the steel ones have been coated in some sort of heat resisting coating and are in excellent condition so I will paint them in HT paint to spruce them up a little before I fit them.

07-05-18, 09:01 PM
Bank holiday weekend so how was progress I hear you ask eeerrrrrrr no progress at all really. I did receive my gasket set just before the weekend so I thought I would have the engine all nicely buttoned up except the inlet and the carb. The inlet is getting vapour blasted and probably won't be ready till next week and I still need to check out the carb situation.

So I decided to replace the rear main oil seal, fairly easy job to be honest but I then thought I would do as suggested by MJ and have a quick look at the big end bearings, well I think I will be changing the crank and big end bearings as a precaution, the main bearings look to be ok but the big ends are well worn. I wasn't expecting this as the oil pressure has always been very good infact high if the gauge is to be believed.

So who knows what the markings on the main cap bearing and the big end bearings mean?

Bugger!!! for some reason my pc and the camera are having a bit of a tizzy.

On the back of the main bearing shell it has the following:

001 US
an A in a circle followed by GM
3 78

The big end bearing has the following:

an A in a circle followed by GM
3 78

I haven't googled anything yet as I am absolutely knackard from working on the house roof in this heat today (stupid idea given I'm bald and don't possess a hat of any type).

malamute john
09-05-18, 01:05 AM
do NOT quote me, as I dont KNOW and havent researched it, but it looks to me like your bearings may be marked .020 under... The engine has obviously been into before, evidenced by the double row timing chain if nothing else. best advice is to get the micrometer out and check journal size.
[sorry if i caused all this extra trouble and expense...]

11-05-18, 08:29 PM
Engine now even further dismantled as the machine shop need the crank to measure what bearings are needed as the numbers mean very little to them:tdown: on the plus side all the bearings were the same size which might sound odd but reading what GM do for clearances as well as other people it's nice to know.:tup:

So now we wait yet again.

15-05-18, 05:02 PM
Been away for a few days with the other half and was not expecting anything relating to the vette but got a phone call today to say that the machine shop I have taken the crank and bearings to can't help out:tdown: rather miffed as this lot have been doing engine cranks, rebores etc. since the year dot and I have had a couple of 351 Fords bored and crank ground by them in the past so thought this would be easy, but apparently not. So now I have to find somewhere else that can supply the bearings, my future looks like a load of phone calls in the morning:tdown:

22-05-18, 09:51 AM
Hows the car coming along. Surprised about those bearings, would have thought they would have been easy to find considering how long those engines have been around, and they must be the most popular v8 out there.

22-05-18, 04:53 PM
Not much further on as yet Captain, work is unusually getting in the way of doing car stuff (I kid you not).

I managed to take the crank and shells to a place that knew what they were doing, not a machine shop though:tdown: They sussed out what is what and apparently at the factory when engines were been assembled if the crank was slightly out they would adjust by using non standard bearings as required, I thought this was strange but on a few american sites this is spoken about so I have to give the benefit of the doubt. Anyway the up shot is that the main bearings are standard size, however the big ends are .0005" over sized, this is a problem as you are not able to buy .0005" over sized bearings from anywhere, not even GM!!!!! I can get .001" over size apparently but just putting them in could create issues.

I have been given a company name in Cambridge that is highly recommended so if work allows I will be going there to see what they can do, probably end up getting it ground:tdown:

On the plus side the inlet manifold has come back from vapour blasting, I thought that all they had done was sprayed it silver, can't believe the basic manifold was that SILVER!!!! but then I looked at the other fittings and sure enough it has been blasted and that is the natural colour.

OH well I would have loaded a photo but something won't allow me to do it and I am no teccy and I did switch it off and on again but it still didn't work, so either the site doesn't like me of the lapustoppus is buggered.

13-06-18, 08:40 PM
Well progress has been very slow for one reason and another, but I am running out of time so with no big end or main bearings arriving I decided to tackle the front wishbone bushes, this was not as bad as I was expecting, basically brute force and ignorance plus youtube was the order of the day.

Luckily, many many years ago, I had bought a complete poly bush set for an older Vette and they are the same so I have installed new poly bushes in the upper and lower wishbones as well as the antiroll bar drop links. Will need to do the power steering ram bushes as well.

I did manage to bugger up one of the brake hard lines so will have to make one of those up. Would really have liked to get all the bits shot blasted and painted but time is not on my side so a quick wire brush and some satin black paint is all it is getting for now.

The big end and main bearings finally arrived today, I have no idea what I did wrong but Rockauto sent the bearings via parcel force, they were in customs holding for three days and I got stung for VAT plus Parcel forces 12 plus administration fees, no import duty. This is the longest time taken for anything to get to me from Rockauto and I have never had issues with duty or VAT or postal charges before so not sure what I did differently this time but it is putting me off buying from them at the moment.

The strange thing was that the bearings country of origin was GERMANY!!! Took from the 23rd. May till 13th. June, not best pleased.

14-06-18, 10:50 AM
I use summit racing and their iparcel service..no hidden charges and ships in good time.

14-06-18, 07:06 PM
To be fair I haven't had issues before this delivery BUT Bloody hell if it wasn't for the bad luck I'm having I wouldn't have any at all.

Finished the front suspension and steering bushes so today I came home early and thought I would put the crank back in the engine and plasigage things to ensure everything would be ok, BUGGER BUGGER and BUGGER again, opened the box to find the Main bearings, no issues correct size and number, small packet? not sure what that was so opened that to find a large nut, large washer, spacer tube and an aluminium blind rivet! Not ordered by me, anyway then opened the connecting rod bearing box to find 8 big end shells, wait for it 8 shells, oh GM must have made a 4 pot motor for the 79 year of corvettes!!!!! SO, correct size big end bearings for only half the engine AAAAARRRRGGGHHH!!!!!

Sent off the automated dispute thing and have to wait for a reply as to what they are going to do, but if it takes as long as the last delivery then there will be no wedding car that's for sure, so well miffed at the moment.:shooting:

14-06-18, 07:49 PM
The weddings getting closer.. Sweat on the brow springs to mind. Back up plan?????

15-06-18, 08:38 PM
Yes sweating and no back up plan as yet. Rockauto are sending the remainder of the big end bearings but I believe it will be snail mail and yes even though I shouldn't get stung again I will, even if it is just Parcel Farce's handling fees again.

Going to get on with other bits till the parts arrive, not going to get it fully done but if I can get it running and MOT'd I'll bodge errrrr make the bodywork look better from at least 20 feet or so, it will sound bloody loud so if it gets running at least everyone will know she is on the way:D

I'll sort a back up plan when I know there is no hope of me getting the thing running, here's hoping and fingers crossed.

OOOOOOOOHHHHHHH just thought this could be a good idea for a TV program, I bet no-one else has thought of putting stupid deadlines on a car build and filming it.:crazy:

20-06-18, 08:12 PM
Just a smidge of progress, I now have a 4 cylinder SBC, well fitted the crank and the four big ends I had. I used a bit of plastigage and the clearance is spot on at .002" and the crank still turns ok so now just have to wait for the other four pairs to arrive, which are currently still in California:tdown:

Tomorrow I will make up a couple of new brake pipes for the front end as I twisted one pipe whilest trying to get the hard line separated from the flexi so will change both hard lines to the front calipers and also have a look at the rear line just in case.

The jobs to do list is fairly extensive so some items will be put on hold for a later date (read another year or so:D). shame really as now would be the optimal time to do them if there wasn't a deadline to meet.

22-06-18, 06:48 PM
The big end bearings are now in Los Angeles by all accounts, think that must be progress.

Both front brake pipes have been made and fitted, still to bleed the system but the clutch and brake pedals are very stiff to move so have sprayed a load of WD40 everywhere I can inside the car (no carpets so no worries).

Got the anti roll bar fitted back up and greased all the front end greasable bits. Next bit to sort is the headlights, they worked but one was very slow to lift and so I bought some new seals for the actuators, hopefully they will do the job, otherwise they will be left in the upright position for now.

One issue I had with the headlights was that I put really over the top powerful lamps in and after a shortwhile when on main beam (all four lamps) would all go out and I had to revert back to dip beam really quickly, bloody scary at night down some of our lanes. Think I might try a couple of relays to see if that cures it or not.

Still can't upload photo's but really not a lot to see anyway, but progress is progress so slowly we are getting there.:tup:

23-06-18, 10:38 PM
Never had any luck flarring pipes.. always found em really fiddley

Sounds like your doing well though :tup:

11-07-18, 10:45 PM
Never had any luck flarring pipes.. always found em really fiddley

Sounds like your doing well though :tup:

These ones were really easy captain, only single flares:tup:

Well the engine is back in but everything I wanted to fit doesn't for no good reason. firstly the headers - managed to get them on after having to remove the spark plugs I had only just fitted, tightened the headers up and the passenger side hits a bolt on the idler arm, not a biggie as I will get the Birmingham screwdriver onto it, on the drivers side it hits the steering arm on full lock, again not a biggie the Brummie screwdriver will be used again. It does bother me a little as these are secondhand units taken from a 1974 small block vette with manual box so why the hell do they foul on a 1979 small block manual vette?

Next up was the billet aluminium alternator bracket - bought specifically for the vette, well with the original alternator and bracket it was nearly impossible to get the lid off the power steering pump, the new bracket actually could not fit as it sat on top of the power steering pump, so out came the hacksaw and I cut off 20mm or so of the bottom corner of the bracket and that now fits and you can just about get to the power steering pump lid but I doubt you could get any oil in it so good job it's full:lol:

None of the pullies lined up for some reason, till I realised that the harmonioc balancer was not far enough on, I tightened the central bolt to well past the specified torque setting but it was still not fully home so out came the massive Brummie screwdriver and it went home ok, but I have had to space out the water pump pulley and the power steering pump to make all the pullies line up ok. Still a little work on the alternator but nearly there.

So time is running out faster than a fast thing, so the car will not get painted even thouigh I have got the paint I will just not have the time so a plan B will be used to deflect that area of the car.

The list of items still to do is as follows:

Fit the radiator
Plumb all the water hoses
Sort out what vacuum hoses are still needed for the carb and blank off those no longer required (I removed the air pump completely)
New oil Filter and Oil
Prime the engine
Fit the distributor
Fit the new Plug leads
Refit the plugs
Reinstall the wiring in the engine bay
Refit the passenger door
Get the electric windows to work
Fit the carpeting
Fit the seats
Make up and fit centre console side panels
Fit the door cards
Fit the battery
Fit the reminder of the exhaust system (only headers fitted at the moment)
Replace the two rear tyres
Sort out the steering column (could be the deal breaker as the indicator stalk fell off:tdown:)
Bleed the braking system
Refit the bonnet
Test drive:mooooh:
Get it MOT'd

Individually the items above are nothing but as I find that nothing is fitting first time I am getting a bit worried I will miss the deadline but we are still trying and a plan B has been sorted although not ideal it will get the bride to the wedding just not in the car she really wants to be in.

12-07-18, 09:23 PM
Assume with that lot to do you've got a couple of weeks off work :D
Good luck :tup:

13-07-18, 08:59 PM
Assume with that lot to do you've got a couple of weeks off work :D
Good luck :tup:

Wish I did but I have to keep working till Wednesday and the wedding is a week tomorrow.

The to do list has shortened a little today.
Fit the radiator Done
Plumb all the water hoses Done
Sort out what vacuum hoses are still needed for the carb and blank off those no longer required (I removed the air pump completely) Done I think
New oil Filter and Oil Done
Prime the engine Done
Fit the distributor Done
Fit the new Plug leads
Refit the plugs Done
Reinstall the wiring in the engine bay Mostly Done
Refit the passenger door
Get the electric windows to work
Fit the carpeting
Fit the seats
Make up and fit centre console side panels
Fit the door cards
Fit the battery
Fit the remainder of the exhaust system (only headers fitted at the moment)
Replace the two rear tyres
Sort out the steering column (could be the deal breaker as the indicator stalk fell off)
Bleed the braking system
Refit the bonnet
Test drive
Get it MOT'd

14-07-18, 10:36 PM
Sorry still no photo's but will add some when I can sort out this bloody computer thing.

Today I thought I was in for a full day on the car but then got ordered to collect the youngest daughter, so set out for Brighton at 8am and didn't get back till gone 2pm, the journey down was fine the way home was a mare. The M25 is just a bloody joke these days, anyway,

I connected the battery up and threw some fuel down the carb like you do then turned the key ZIp, nothing not even a click from the solenoid Bugger bugger bugger, checked the wires on the starter motor and all looked fine, followed them back as far as I could and all still looked fine, then grovelled upside down in the drivers footwell, well after about an hour I finally found the culprit, the Vette had a clutch operated switch built in from the factory but someone in it's history decided to disconnect it and bridge the two contacts with a piece of wire and one of the ends had come adrift, I have no time to see if the original switch is ok so it is bodged as before for the moment.

So a bit more fuel in the carb throat and turn the key, this time the engine turned over but sluggish like a flat battery so out with the jump leads and try again but exactly the same, bugger again, so off came the starter motor and when I opened it up it was just really grubby so cleaned everything up, brushes and stator etc. gave it some lube and a bit of copper slip in the bearing end and refitted.

Back to where we were one and a half hours previously, more petrol down the carb and turn the key, this time it spun over as I remembered it used to and it fired, threw more fuel in the carb and tried again then again then again then again, well you get the picture, it fired each time ran for as short while then stopped. This was unusual for this car, used to leave it for a few days and it wouldn't start so did exactly what I have done and fuel soon gets pumped from the tank to the carb but not this time.

Eldest daughters boyfriend came round and we started to investigate the fuel system, very long story shortened, the rubber pipe that connects the outlet pipe from the top of the tank to the hard fuel line to the front was perished and instead of sucking fuel up and out of the tank it was drawing in air. Replaced this short bit of pipe and started again. More fuel down the carb and turn the key, did this two maybe three times and then fuel poured out of the carb all over the place, bugger again!!!!!!!

Took the top of the Rochester and checked the float and needle valve, all seemed good but as I had a complete rebuild kit we decided to fit the new needle valve and seat as a precaution and fitted a new top gasket and tried again (those Rochesters are tricky little things arn't they), this time just turned the key and away it went, hooraaay!!!!!!, switched it off and fuel continued to flood the carb and piss out from the new gasket BUGGERRRRRRRRR!!!

That was it, I had managed to work out what vacuum pipes etc. were not needed, got it running and then it does that so it was removed and I bunged on a 650 cfm holley that hadn't been on a car for over 15 years, slapped it on, connected it up and turned the key, fired up within two turns of the engine, brilliant!!!!! BUGGER fuel poured out from the tube that goes between the front and rear float bowels, the rubbers were as hard as anything, so removed the front bowel put in a couple of new rubber "O" rings and tried again, fired up great and ran reasonably well considering we have no idea what the original application that this carb was used for.

We set the floats up but using the idle screws does nothing to alter the speed or idle of the engine so that will eventually need looking at but for now it starts, runs and doesn't pour petrol everywhere:tup: On the down side the thermostat housing is leaking so that will be a job for tomorrow.

Before it got too dark we also managed to hang the passenger door back on, needs fettling but it is there at least.

The to do list is has the following:
Fit the new Plug leads
Reinstall the wiring in the engine bay (still a few wires that I can't find homes for)
Get the electric windows to work
Fit the carpeting
Fit the seats
Make up and fit centre console side panels
Fit the door cards
Fit the remainder of the exhaust system (only headers fitted at the moment)
Replace the two rear tyres
Sort out the steering column (could be the deal breaker as the indicator stalk fell off)
Bleed the braking system
Refit the bonnet
Test drive
Get it MOT'd

Hopefully more will get done tomorrow.

16-07-18, 08:07 PM
Had the same prob with a 2 barrel carb, never did find out what caused it

Sounds like your getting there though :tup:, fingers crossed for your finish date

17-07-18, 11:03 PM
The to do list is has taken a bit of a turn, still left:

Reinstall the wiring in the engine bay (still a few wires that I can't find homes for)
Get the electric windows to work. Passenger one is shorted out, drivers one now ok so passenger window is in the down position, hope it doesn't rain:D
Fit the carpeting
Fit the seats
Make up and fit centre console side panels

Sort out the steering column (could be the deal breaker as the indicator stalk fell off) Column back together but indicators are an issue still
Now the brand new, albeit old stock water pump has decided to make some horrible noises, so the old pump will have to go back on.

Refit the bonnet
Test drive
Get it MOT'd

Not given up yet but a plan B is in the offing, not what the bride wants but better than the Suburban or the Skoda:lol:

Got to collect middle daughter from Heathrow at 7.45am and then go to work so time really is running out fast. Oh and I found yet another bloody rat long since dead thankfully, that makes the fouth one in this car.

18-07-18, 10:34 AM
Sort out the steering column (could be the deal breaker as the indicator stalk fell off) Column back together but indicators are an issue still.

You're old enough to remember hand signals :incheek:
I hope all goes well and you get it all done,going to be a close run thing though....

malamute john
18-07-18, 04:26 PM
my goodness! sounds like youre making tremendous progress...woulda taken me 2 years to get that done!

welcome to aftermarket stuff : in re earlier post about fit issues. :( cant imagine the prob on the headers tho...except that theyre headers.

strng column ; not conversant with that late of a model, but doesnt the stalk just screw in? historically, theres a plastic 'cam' inside the column below all the horn mechanism as I remember that breaks; I had to do that little job on my 70 years ago. Memory says the part is NLA from Chevrolet tho... :( but the column on your car is different, so you might be ok.

Ive got a spare window motor, just run over after work to pick it up and you can have it...

05-09-18, 08:43 PM
Well it's been a while but finally I am able to load up some photo's but a recap before that.

As you may recall the car was partially stripped including taking the passenger door off to do some repairs to the outer skin to frame and also to get at the electric's, the engine was removed to replace the clutch which I remember had been slipping the last time I drove it some 5 years ago, whilst out I thought I would clean the engine up a bit and add the goodies I had been buying over many years for it.

Whilst out of the car why not change the mains and big ends as a precaution Doh!!!! Well only half the set were sent but eventually the order was fulfilled but took the best part of 6 weeks:tdown: Add the nice and shiny inlet manifold, new water pump, new aluminium alternator bracketry, fit the gilmer drive for the alternator, paint the engine, add the rocker covers, fit the clutch. Oh gilmer drive doesn't fit, sod it just use a fan belt as before then.

Whilst waiting for the engine bits to arrive why not fit new polybushes to the front end, oh and replace the front hardlines for the brakes, new pads as well for good measure:tup: bleed the brakes, bugger one of the rear calipers looks like it needs replacing so fit a new one from my stock pile (oh yes I have a load of spares as I bought loads for my other one that has never been sorted in over 35 years) bleed brakes again, all seems fine.

Now reinstall the engine job's a goodun, errr well no it wouldn't turn at all, eventually found the culprit that was the bodged wiring to eliminate the "clutch pressed down system" before the engine will turn over, sorted that and started the engine, err well no the starter wouldn't turn over the engine quick enough, starter motor had to be removed, cleaned and replaced, all good to go, errr no, no fuel entering the carb eventually worked out that the small piece of rubber hose that connects the tank to the hardline to the fuel pump had perrished so much that all the pump did was draw in air no fuel, easy fix but took a while to find, then the Quadrajet sprang a huge leak so fitted new needle and seat for the float plus new top end gasket, still leaked big time, junk Quadrajet for old Holley of unknown specification, leaked but got sorted and ran well, all good:tup: Then the squeal of death started, the new water pump was buggered, not even managed to drive the beast yet and had to replace the old dirty water pump back on but at least it didn't squeal like a pig.
Headers hit the steering a little but not too bad so thought I would see how it all went when driving.
It was at this time I realised that there was water under the car and on further investigation it was clear that one of the core plugs was leaking, now this did catch me by surprise as when the engine was out I checked them and all looked really good, but no one decided to leak so out it came and a new one fitted , now all good to go.
Fit the passenger door even though the electric motor is toast and just leave the window down, sorted the door locks though. The steering column was refitted but no indicators, as Phil has said, hand signals are fine by me:D,

The day before the wedding I had booked an MOT so refit the carpet, seats and seat belts, fingers crossed stevie wonder doesn't realise the headlights are only on dip beam and that the indicators are worked by magic. Still not driven it yet, so that night I decide to take the car for a spin round the lanes, BUGGER the brakes are awful no power boost whatsoever and the pedal as stiff as a stiff thing can be. Do some checks and it's confirmed that the servo is buggered:tdown:

This was the final straw, no way was this car getting an MOT and no way was I prepared to let the newlyweds drive it, the brakes are shockingly bad, no bite, easier to throw an anchor out and wait till it stopped, so cancelled the MOT:tdown:

A few photo's.

And what the hell am I supposed to do for the other four cylinders my RockAuto?

If it doesn't fit just lop a bit off till it does:tup:

Day before the MOT, had to do a late shift to get it all together.

For all those wanna be Rat rodders.

So there you have it, loads of work and a poor result BUT as we are not normal, I put you all into this category not just my family, what do you do if the car you have worked on all this time doesn't work properly and the bride wants that car?

That's right you stick the damn thing on a trailer and put the bride in it:D

To be perfectly honest, the day of the wedding didn't start too well and we missed the service, when I say we, I do mean myself and the bride!!!!! she was a little upset, ok she was bloody fuming!!! thankfully we sorted out another time later that afternoon and they were having a blessing done at the festival site so we did that first and the wedding later, with this in mind I off loaded the car about half a mile down the road from the festival site, put the bride in the passenger side, three people on the back and drove to the venue.


When on the site I put the bride on the bonnet and delivered her to the blessing and her husband to be infront of everyone like that. It went down a storm and everyone had a great time including the bride and groom.

There is a short video clip of the car running but I haven't sorted out how to load it, it's an MP4 or something if that makes any difference.

As for the car, it did it's job and has been returned back to my place for me to get it sorted properly, due to time and other issues I didn't even manage to paint the front nose, hence the scab is still visible, I had intended to fit some stick on white bow's but we were already running late on the day unfortunately.

So there you go, hope you enjoyed it, if I can find out how to post the video up I will but it says to post a link to a URL which I don't have as it is saved on this lapustoppus.

06-09-18, 07:34 AM
Full marks to you AND your daughter.....:tup:

06-09-18, 12:45 PM
Congrats to all..
Good effort by you..love the trailer idea..you never know it could be a good buisness venture..much cooler than a horse and trap.:tup:

06-09-18, 05:13 PM
After all that effort the bugger still caught you out. What a shame...

Lateral thinking is good for the brain and at least the car and bride made the day together. I really feel for you after all the effort and hard work. Perhaps a weekend break for the newly-weds with the Vette as the transport would be in order.

Have a Merlot, sit back and take a big breath, mate; you deserve it

06-09-18, 09:44 PM
If it makes you feel better - crap happens. En-route last Sunday in the Vette to the annual American and Hot Rod show at the Museum of Power, Maldon, Essex and with a dozen or so other Essex Vetteheads, had a major 'joust' with Tony and his Procharged C5Z06 and then (for me)..................zero oil pressure!
Must have driven for a couple of miles (fortunately at cruising speed) before the sound of 'empty' lifters leads me to thinking to myself "I'm really going need to adjust the lifter clearances this weekend, they seem to be getting noisier by the minute" - the 'penny then dropped'. Suspect a detached oil pump pick-up or perhaps sheared oil pump drive............bastard thing. First year for a long while I'd actually managed to do some miles in the frigger! - it then took 5 hours to for 'low' recovery truck to arrive!

07-09-18, 08:08 AM
The main issue I see is that if you don't use these things on a regular basis then things just keep seizing up or breaking down, my fault really for leaving it stood for so long in the first place, just life got in the way of using it.

It did put a grin on my face when I was driving it and everyone including the "veggies" and the save the planet types thought it was great (that surprised me).

I need to get the brakes sorted and the indicators plus, as a minimum, paint that front nose then as you say uncle Fad a weekend away with the vette as their transport is what we will do.

On the day of the wedding with everything that went on plus having to drive some even older people to and from the venue, I was unable to have a drink till around 11pm but boy did I make up for lost time and was soon in a VERY happy state I can tell you that:lol:

If I find away of putting the video up I will just to show it did run:D well did doughnuts on the grass at any rate:lol:

Roscobbc: I hope your issues are not major and a new set of bearings, an oil pump and gaskets are all that you require to be up and running again:tup:

07-09-18, 01:56 PM
Well done :tup: At least everyone and every thing got to the venue. Looks like you had good weather to.
Just don't wait another 5 years to sort it :lol:

18-03-19, 07:47 PM
Well after all the excitement of last year the car has sat untouched again since arriving back home, but I have another wedding to attend, this time as a guest but as my friend is a petrol head he wants the Vette to turn up to annoy some of the others (they don't understand the fasination with old loud gas gusseling cars). SOOOO Saturday I thought I had better take a look at the brake issue that stopped me from getting the old girl mot'd.

Ran her up and it is definately the brake servo, there are one or two different ones that fit the Vette so I thought the best way forward was to remove the said item and then I would know for sure what one to order up, what could possibly go wrong:tup:

Had a little ooglegoogle only to find that some people are complete KNOBS. One guy reconed he removed his one in 15 minutes start to finish BOLLOCKS mate no chance unless one of the nuts wasn't attached in the first place.

The best description came from one guy who said " first drag your knuckels over a load of tarmac and get the skin removed now before you start and do it anyway" Well that gave me a better understanding of what was to come. Basically there are four 9/16" nuts that hold the servo to the bulkhead, three of them are easy to do the fouth one, top left as looking from the inside, is an absolute bugger. I have many sockets skinny, deep, short etc. loads of swivel end extensions, universal joints, you name it I probably have it somewhere so using the wrong sockets is not the issue. This fourth nut is possibly the hardest nut to access on the whole of a manual C3 Corvette!!!!

So somewhere in this mess of wires, glassfibre and steel parts is the offending nut.

So out came the seat and the steering column and the dash clocks.

Still can't see the bugger

Then out with more bits of steel

Now lying on my back with torch in hand I finally get to see the thing BUT, still can't get a proper angle of attack, most of the time it's feel with eyes closed and after TWO plus hours I finally got the thing off.
Finger pointing to the offending stud that the nut was on, now I hear you all saying "what was the problem?" well the problem is Chevrolet did a crap job and should have off-set the damn thing so you could get to it easier!!!!!

One good thing was that this was all outside and because of the struggle I didn't feel the bloody cold. So now I will try to get hold of a new or rebuilt servo and have the fun of putting that nut back on ARRRGH!!!

Oh the rust is only surface but all the bits will be cleaned up and painted before refitting so the pedal assembly will be stripped next to start that process.

09-01-20, 08:01 PM
OK so I've not been very active on this particular project and suffice to say that I didn't get the thing sorted for my friends wedding as once again life just got in the way.

So, the above photo's showed the extent of the rust to the pedal box but what it doesn't show is that the pedals were nigh-on seized solid, so as I waited for my new servo to arrive I decided to do something about them.

Firstly I disassembled the lot to find out what was needed and then I decided on a way forward for getting rid of the rust. Well, I saw somewhere that if you leave the metal bits in some brick cleaner then the rust will fall away as will any paint and all you need to do is remove from the brick acid, rinse off and prime and paint. With me so far:tup: this is where life got in the way:grr: I dropped the ofending items in a bucket of brick acid and put a lid on it as it does smell somewhat, however, I then left them in there for about a month!!!! Told you life gets in the way didn't I.

When I removed the bits from the now not so full bucket of acid, sure enough some areas were cleaner the bits that were no longer submerged (most of it) were rusty as hell.
To be fair this method would probably have been ok had I not left it so long:tdown: anyway I then thought I would try electrolytic rust removal, by now it was a case of why not.

So armed with a plastic bucket nearly full of water, a bit of steel rod washing soda and a battery charger we set to and had a go, NO not having it BUGGER, the reason.......new battery chargers are "intelligent" basically the bloody thing couldn't see a battery connection so would not switch on to charge soooooo set to with said plastic bucket nearly full of water, steel rod, washing soda, battery charger, jump leads and a big old battery, all set up as below.


Something is happening

After a few hours we got this.

The results were not as good as I was hoping for but there again perhaps I should have left it in the bucket for another month, having said that it did soften up all the rust into a gunge that I could wipe off or scrape off but I was not totally impressed
So out came the wire wheel and finger file, probably should have started with them in the first place:lol: so after a while doing the necessary we end up with some rattle can primer and black painted bits plus new plastic bushes and pedal rubbers.
Then back together

Not brilliant as I really should have got my spray gun out and used some high build primer to get better results as the metalwork is pitted and that would have made a much nicer job of things as well as using 2k topcoat but I just wanted to complete something for a change.

Now all I need to do is clean up all the supporting steelwork, which is not too bad, give those bits some paint and I can start to put stuff back on the car.

In hindsight, I shouldn't have let the brick acid option carry on for so long, perhaps a day or two would have yielded better results, when using the electrolytic option I perhaps should have left that for a couple of days or really I should have just sent the bits away for shot blasting:lol: but bear in mind this was all done outside over Christmas, oh apart from the rattle can spraying but here is a word of warning, DON'T GET CAUGHT OUT BY YOUR OTHER HALF, I sprayed the items in the house (it's all open plan) and she came home earlier than I expected, she was not best pleased with the aroma:slap:

13-01-20, 12:30 PM
A bit more done...
If your not building a show car do you really need to have the metal that smooth?
Just get it back on the road and use it :tup:

13-01-20, 06:37 PM
A bit more done...
If your not building a show car do you really need to have the metal that smooth?
Just get it back on the road and use it :tup:

You are correct, but as I have the gear I just think it is lazy of me not to do it, however, I really couldn't be bothered getting everything ready and the place warmed up enough to do it so rattle can it was:lol:

This has never been a show car and never will be, just something to put a grin on my face, Just stripped down the carb and will post a bit up when I get it back together, who knew there were so many bits to a holley?

16-01-20, 04:54 PM
Had a bit of spare time today so thought I would have a go at cleaning up and rebuilding the Holley carb that we basically threw on when the quadrajet gave us a load of issues.

The Holley also gave issues such as a bit of a leak, however, it worked long enough to do the job we wanted but was always going to need new gaskets etc. as to my personal knowledge this carb has been on three different engines in my ownership and it was bought secondhand over 25 years ago!!!

So stripped it down as far as I was willing, I left the butterfly screws in place as I didn't want to disturb them, the front metering plate was stuck on like the proverbial to a blanket and had to be gently persuaded with a mallet, the rest was plain sailing but it is surprising how many bits are in a basic 4 barrel Holley.

So at this point I thought I would give soda blasting ago:tup: Never having done it but looked on oogoolegoogle and found out what I needed for the job and set about. I haven't a photo of the set up but it is very basic and there are loads of posts on the internet if you are that interested.

The results were not that bad BUT be warned when they tell you it is messy they are not wrong, the garage got covered in it as did I and I used about 2kg's of soda just to do the main body and the butterfly plate areas. On reflection I would not do this again but either opt for a sonic bath that can take the main body of the Holley or send it to a proffessional, the stuff gets everywhere. On the plus side it is not harmful to anything, me or the environment, and is washed away with just water. I was going to post a photo of the mess but it rained just as I had finished and now there is no trace:lol:

So this is the before shot of the base plate.


And the after shots.



Now just need to start to rebuild it and see if I have any bits left over afterwards:D

03-03-20, 09:43 PM
Well, rebuilt the Holley and no bits left over so hopefully all is right with the world. I haven't fitted it as yet but that will get done when I refit the steering column and a few other bits.
On other news, I chased after a steering column that a guy was selling as parts because he said it had the holder for my dip/main and indicator stalk switch arrangement, basically I broke what I would describe as a poorly manufactured item, cheap cast ali affair and it is no longer available from GM. This guy sells corvette's and parts, however when I got there it was nothing like what I require so apart from fuel costs I managed to save myself 50 on buying a useless second column.

When I got home he sent me a photo of exactly what I was after and said it was in his spares cabinet and how much would I pay for it so I said 25 but then he finds out it is no longer available and apparently his people in America told him secondhand ones go for $150 so he was going to keep it as a back up. Fair enough.

So eventually I find a place called steering column services, in the states and they have new reproduction items, but boy the cost just for the small casting without anything else plus postage came out at well past 110. This was my fall back option.

So then I get onto a forum in the states and ask a few questions and about two weeks later a guy pops up and said if I was you I would do this and gives me a link to brand new switches for the likes of Buick's, he said punch out the pin that holds the electric's to the mounting piece and fit my lever to that, punch the pin back in place and that will do the job. I was a bit hessitent but then went ahead and bought one, it arrived yesterday and now I have exactly what I needed plus it is a more solid piece of kit. Basically in the 80's loads of veicles used similar bits with small variations, the ali piece I needed was the same just the stalk and the electric's are different.
To say I'm chuffed would be an understatement as the switch now works exactly as it should and is, in my opinion, stronger than the original.

Here's a few photo's of the items:
The original broken item.

The new switch from a Buick of some sort.

Removing the pin.

Fitting my original stalk.

Completed installation ready for fitting back in the column.

So now to do the bottom steering column bearing, rub down the column casing and give it a lick of paint before refitting.:tup:

06-03-20, 09:53 AM
Small wins, it what keeps us going :tup:

30-03-20, 06:49 PM
Managed to take the top steering column casing off, meant I had to pull the wiring through the column which might be a pig to get back in but the top casing is aluminium and was battered and scarred by the very heavy key fob the previous owners had been using.

So decided to rub it all down with some 400 wet and dry then rattle can etch primer followed by the rattle can gloss black, first attempt saw that I had not covered the unit with enough gloss black so gave it a quick wipe over and sprayed some more black on, HOWEVER!!!!
The result was far from what I had hoped for.


Think I might have gotten some oil deposits on it when wiping over, so once fully cured I rubbed it all back down with 400 wet and dry again, bit of rattle can etch primer over the areas that I had rubbed through and squirted more gloss black on, this time no wrinkle finish and once fully cured should polish up nicely.

So will give it a day to fully cure and then re-assemble the column, once this is done I can start to put the thing back together again for the final time along with the pedal box and the new servo, oh I'm really looking forward to the reistallation of that one sodding nut on the servo NOT!!!

08-04-20, 08:09 PM
Finally I got to do a bit more on the car but have been dreading this bit for a while, reinstalling the steering column and the new brake servo. As some may remember I managed to find the most difficult nut to undo on the whole of the car, top left inner servo nut, so was dreading trying to put it back together.
I kid you not when I say I used just about every conceivable extension, 1/4", 3/8" and even a couple of 1/2" drive items plus endless screwdrivers and pliers. Here are just a few.

After a good hour it was in place (nearly said F--- it and left it off but just couldn't do that in the end), the other three nuts go on in about a minute, so now that the servo is in place which also starts the installation of the pedal box assembly, finish off fitting all the support steel and eventually the steering column itself.

The sharp eyed ones amongst you might realise that there is still something missing, well before the steering wheel can finally go on I have to refit the instrument cluster and bits of dash and heating ducts but hoping to do that tomorrow along with cleaning up the old brake master cylinder, fitting the new brake flexi hoses and bleeding the system, the last bit might have to wait as I'm sure my lad used up all the brake fluid the other week and has not replaced it (like he was ever going to do that:incheek:).
Final photo for today showing the newly painted, refurbished brake servo and the new rag joint on the steering gear.

08-04-20, 10:07 PM
That diddy little header tube looks veeeeeery close to the steering box!

09-04-20, 08:15 PM
Are you taking the Michael out of my 9.99 exhaust system:lol: Yes it is VERY close but you just don't want to see the other side:lol: I bought the whole system from a guy that had them fitted to a 74 manual Vette, he changed them out for a set of side pipes and I got them for the sum stated. They fitted but are close if not touching at times, think I might need a new set of engine mounts, this may well lift the engine a bit and give me a little bit of clearance, if not then out with the big shifter and give it some.

Today did not go as planned:down: school boy error on my part, I should have checked the servo operating rod to ensure that it was the same length as the original, guess what? no it wasn't so out came the steering column again.

Then I had to fabricate an extension for the operating rod, the reason for this is the brake pedal was halfway to the floor without any pressure been applied.
It did say on the servo that the rod might need modifying and I did read somewhere that others had had a similar issue so we got a 3/8" unf exhaust stud which was the correct thread, an alternator spacer and a 3/8" tap to put a thread in it. I then ground down two sides of the spacer to an exact 17mm spanner size (who said fluke?)http://www.torquedup.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/usr_images/1/4/2/142_5e8f81cb18025.jpg

The end result was this (up against the old servo to show the position.

However, this was too much and I had to cut it down and mess about a bit more before we got the best possible position for the brake pedal. Didn't take any more photo's as all it shows is the same as yesterday. Tomorrow is another day, heyho.

Oh and I was right, no brake fluid so will have to do a click and collect with some place to get some.

09-04-20, 09:04 PM
Tip. Use 'Poly' engine mounts - even though far more 'rigid' there isn't any vibration transmitted and they may sit better in chassis and give you that little bit of extra clearance. Got mine from Real Steel of all places......

10-04-20, 06:52 PM
Tip. Use 'Poly' engine mounts - even though far more 'rigid' there isn't any vibration transmitted and they may sit better in chassis and give you that little bit of extra clearance. Got mine from Real Steel of all places......

Will look into them, Thank you.

10-04-20, 06:59 PM
Well today's escapade entailed, lowering and fixing back in place the steering column a few times, but now the thing is in place and all wired up except for the stoplight switch which is causing some issues, not the switch but the wiring.

I put a battery on the vehicle and I have lights, indicators, main and dip beam, battery voltage gauge, hazard lights and even the clock was working!!!! BUT the brake lights are not, checked the switch and that appears fine but no power to the switch, I have two two pin connectors, one is for the seat belt alarm (disconnected) and the other I thought was for the brake light switch but nothing is happening. I need to find my workshop manual for a wiring diagram, note the wording "I need to find" arghhh!!!

On a further plus side though, I did manage to get some brake fluid so maybe tomorrow I will have a go at replacing all the flexible hoses on the calipers and bleed the system, makes a change from been upside down in the footwell of the car for a while.:tup:

10-04-20, 08:54 PM
Vette's can often have earthing issues - check to see if brake light circuit is earthed perhaps? - earth tails from rear light assembly to chassis can go open-circuit......

11-04-20, 06:29 PM
That will be one of the things I will check, but first off there is no power getting to the brake light switch so if I can sort that out and they still don't work then it will be looking at the rear light units but after today's cock up I might just leave it alone for a while and work on something else.

Today's works were meant to be doing the brake flexi's and bleed the system but I changed my mind and decided to refit the window mechanism and new motor to the passenger side door.

Schoolboy error on my part, stuck the glass in the up position with some duct tape but during the heat said tape let go and now I have a million plus bits of side glass to clear up. This did rather put a downer on things. Glass can be had new for silly money but have put a wanted ad in the corvette forum just in case someone has a spare.

On the plus side I have got the new motor in place and the necessary mechanism, on the down side the damn thing doesn't go up or down on the switch BUT neither does the driver's side one which was working yesterday. :tdown:

Clean up of all the fuses and their holders is in order I think, good job I haven't fitted the steering wheel yet as the fuses are under the dash to the left of the clutch pedal, well done Chevrolet, could you not have found a more difficult place to put them.

Tomorrow is another day and I will see if I carry on or change and do something else for a while.

21-04-20, 06:49 PM
Well, I took a day off and worked on other things but today I decided to have a go at the electric's, to this end I took out all the fuses and two small relays, cleaned them all up, sprayed some WD40 in the fuse box (didn't have any contact cleaner to hand), put all the bits back and I now have two window motors working, all the lights working (except the stoplights still), and the engine starting system with the clutch pedal lockout working as it should.

With something nearly going to plan I then decided to have a go at the brake flexi's, changed them all around and bled the system, not sure if the pedal is right just yet but there is a pedal so better than before.

I then got a bit cocky and decided to throw some fuel down the carb and see if it would start, which it did, but it runs as rough as a badgers bum and is not firing properly on number one cylinder, so a bit of carb and ignition fettling is required. Hopefully nothing too serious with the misfire.

At this point I decided to finish up as I was on a winner for a change.

No photo's as there is no point:D

22-04-20, 06:04 PM
Well it would appear that the rebuild I did on the holley was not that good:down: I got a full rebuild kit that was as cheap as chips and now I find out why.

Main issue was fuel leaking from the bolts that hold the float bowls on to the main body, the supplied washers, which look like they were made from a formica type material, just would not seal and fuel kept on draining down, then the needle valves for the fuel inlets were not seating properly and would not stop fuel even when they were turned all the way down.

So I removed the new needle valves and fitted the old ones back in and I fitted copper washers to the float bowl holding bolts, which at the time of writing were doing the job.

Firing the engine back up and it ran a bit better, at least number one was firing, but I used my laser thermometer to see what was happening to the exhausts and a number of them were cooler than the rest.
Whilst looking down the carb with part throttle it would appear that one side of the carb is getting loads of fuel whilst the other side isn't showing any signs of fuel getting in, so I'm going to have to strip it down again and see if some crap has got in there somehow.

The plus side is it runs better and I drove it round the garden, the brakes worked but could be better and I still have to do the timing correctly. I might even put the seat back in:D

25-04-20, 07:27 PM
Got a phone call out of the blue from a mate of mine I hadn't spoken to for about 6 months, he was just bored and checking to see what was happening my end with the lockdown, obviously got round to what we were doing to our cars and I told him about the window to which he said I might have one, don't hold your breath but I will look next time I'm up the barn, well bugger me he sent a message with a photo attached showing the glass and a caption "I'ts your lucky day"

Woohooo, so after the lockdown at least I will have all the glass, have no idea why he had one but will ask next time I see him.:tup: