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  1. #21
    Carburetion 'sucks' !
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Driving 'round the M25 so fast the centrifugal force is forcing my face against the side window!
    Soooooooooooo much to read - and sooooooooooooo interesting too! - being a Bedford is the engine a Vauxhall 2.2 ltr or 2.6 ltr 6 bangers or one of those GM Canada larger capacity lumps?

  2. #22
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Well, let's rewind a little bit from that last image.

    *wibbly-wobbly rewinding effect*

    I got myself a new toy, a cordless grinder. This did not bode well for the truck.
    It was meant to be a recon mission; figure out where the rotten bits were, and come up with a plan of attack. So on the wire wheel went, and I started whizzing away the filler.

    Some bits didn't appear so bad...

    And some of the bits that looked bad, turned out not to look so bad after all.

    Remember that remark. We'll be coming back to that bit later.

    However, the back of the cab was in rough shape; with definite signs of advanced rot.

    And some signs of previous repairs. It's hard to see here, but there are definite warning signs of the disaster that I was about to uncover.

    Oh, and then there was the back corners of the cab floor.

    So I decided to attack the driver's door first; since removing the filler exposed the full amount of terribleness. There was a lot of terribleness; so it all had to be cut out.

    I've seen teabags with fewer holes!

    A bit of tin-bashing later...

    All of that had to be done by hand; because the little hand-held joggler/punch can't move 1mm by enough. It's a pretty rough job by the standards of sheet metal work guys, but coming from a guy in a plate-work background...

    Some fettling required.

    Well, I didn't have a long enough extension lead to run the 800 yards from the workshop to where the truck was parked; so I just had to prime that panel and set it aside with the other couple of panels I'd bashed out. So, onward and... er... downward.

    Remember that bit I said didn't look so bad, earlier?





    And that's when the whole corner of the cab fell off.

    All of that fuzzy bit looks to be a repair to the structure of the cab; there's a bit of box-section, and then a patch over the top of it. None of which was painted prior to becoming sealed away, so it's all instantly rotted again. The inside of the box section feels to be full of flakes; and I'm still deciding how much more I need to chop at.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zero-Five-Two
    You can get counselling for that kind of traumatic experience

    Quote Originally Posted by roscobbc
    Soooooooooooo much to read - and sooooooooooooo interesting too! - being a Bedford is the engine a Vauxhall 2.2 ltr or 2.6 ltr 6 bangers or one of those GM Canada larger capacity lumps?
    It's a 300cin 6-banger (4.9-ish litres). Apparently a close relative of a Chevrolet engine. The compression is... hilarious, by modern standards; but it did need to run on 60-octane pool petrol. 6.7:1. Yes. Six point seven to one.

  3. #23
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014

    Update at the time, 4th August:

    Water pump: is still at the machine shop. I'm getting a little bit grumpy about not having it; but they're trying to fit it in around their other jobs, it's understandably a low priority, not helped by it being an awkward size shaft in the rebuild kit, and thus involves boring out to dimension rather than drilling and reaming.

    Such is life. Half considering making a blanking plate with the appropriate fittings to fit an electric water pump; but that then results in needing an electric fan, etc. All doable, but I'd rather not, at this point; it adds yet more complexity and points of failure. Still, it's a back-up plan in case the mechanical pump still leaks after I did the rebuild...

    Fuel tank: surprisingly clean inside. Looks to have been galvanised from the factory, and there are only a few very small patches that look even slightly iffy; I have had to shake some lumps of lead out of it, which I suspect are from a past repair that I can see evidence of on the outside.

    Planning to strip the outside down with a wire wheel, and repaint it, because it looks a bit tatty. No major problem, really. Biggest issue -- and it's only a little one, at that -- is likely to be sorting out the filler cap. I suspect I should be able to just (there's that magic word again) get it re-keyed, and reassemble the filler in the reverse order of removal.

    (I'll also need to re-make the tank straps, but that shouldn't be a major problem. Just a chain of minor ones, knowing how these things go. )

    Fuse panel:

    Some untangling needed.

    ---END OF COPY---

    Now, the fuse-board looks kinda terrible at that point, because I changed my mind on how I was going to build it while I was building it; if I were to do it again, the same way, then the holes that the wires drop down through would be more like large slots so it wouldn't be so cramped. This is just how prototyping goes, really...

    I didn't want to splice a whole heap of wires to connect the fusebox to to the truck wiring; so I ordered up some connectors.

    I'm rather partial to TE's products, since I use a lot of them at work. These are 18-pin connectors out of the MCP 1.5 series, rated amply (fnar! ) for the fuses I expect to use.

    I ordered two, just in case, and ended up filling both of them. I think I have a pin or two still spare in one of them.

    A week after that update, I got the flange back from the machine-shop so I could finish reassembling the water pump! Like a divot, I was so excited about getting it back, I didn't take any pictures.

    There was a minor heart-attack moment shrinking it onto the shaft for the water pump, when it bound up only half-way down, and I had to use the puller to get it back off again. My next attempt was better; I had the damn thing glowing before I dropped it on.

    With the pump rebuilt, I threw everything back together... ahahahahah, no, it was a fight.
    The water pump has a stub going upwards to the thermostat housing, which is connected by about an inch of heater hose. And because it's so short, and a straight run, you have to get the length exactly perfect or you can't bolt the thermostat housing back on.

    I got it close enough, but there's a hilarious little bulge where it's taken up the extra eigth of an inch.

    Anyway, I used some black gasket-maker as a replacement for the old water-pump/block gasket. Left that overnight to cure fully, and filled the radiator back up...

    Miracle of miracles, it didn't gush straight back out again! Naturally, every hose-clamp I loosened, touched, or looked at funny in the process leaked; so I had to chase around after leaks.

    After that, though, I decided the best thing to do would be to drive it over to the machine shop that made the flange.

    That Sunday, I stayed at the workshop after my shift and started doing some sheet metal abuse... It's not the prettiest, but it'll smooth out okay with some time and effort.

    The "stand back and squint" edition:

    The "up close and personal, warts and all" edition:

    It was only welded on the outside; I still have to get at the innards of the door to clean it up and weld it properly. I also still need to fix the hole in the door where the mirror arm used to mount.

    Having mirrors would be nice. It's ... interesting, trying to park up against a fence, with cars parked behind you... when you can only just about see backwards through the window in the back of the cab. No major events have occurred yet, though.

    The fusebox work carried on merrily...

    Looks pretty nice on the front, but the backside is an abomination unto Nuggan.

    Again, this is still in its "prototype" state; which it probably never will go beyond. If I were to build another one of these, there's plenty of stuff I'd do differently.
    A big change was to build it into an enclosure, which gives me a nice way to mount the sockets...

  4. #24
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    So! Mounting those sockets in a Gewiss (or other similar white box) enclosure...

    Drill a rectangular hole in the side of the enclosure large enough to get the socket's flange through.

    Make a tab, shaped thusly.

    Shove that so!

    And then bung a screw through it to hold it all put.

    The astute amongst you may notice that there are two connectors in the box... One (labelled "Power") is the outputs from the relays and fuses to the various lights; the other (labelled "Switches"), runs to the instrument panel, etc.

    Using those plugs, the fuse/relay box could be completed entirely outside of the truck; rather than fitting it to the back wall of the cab -- behind the passenger's seat, as there's enough room there, just -- and then having to try terminate all those wires in a neat manner while folded into unpleasant shapes.

    There was plenty of contortionism required, but this reduced it quite nicely; and the connectors just plug right on... I just had to run the large fused power, and a matching ground, cable into the box via some glands.

    I do like these connectors; and they're pretty well-proven in an automotive environment, too. DAF, et al, use variants of them pretty heavily down the chassis of their trucks. (It should be noted, I've not bothered with the little rubber sealing bungs and whatnot in my plug; because I don't expect the environment to be invading that high up into the truck interior. (Also because I forgot to order them.) Worst case, I plug the back of the, er, plug with silicon. )


    Bolted up to the back wall of the cab; though the internal panel bit is still flopping about, so if I take the front of the enclosure off to change a fuse, the whole panel escapes and attacks me.

    Just clears the back of the seat. Just.

    Well, with it in place, I could start cramming wires in.

    I can run them roughly where the old wiring used to run. Once it's all complete and everything's run, I'll loom it up with something. Probably convoluted plastic conduit, because that stuff's great.

    At this point, most of the bodge-wires behind the instrument panel were surplus to requirements; so out they came, which is a big step, because they've been running the truck since about the first time I had it fired up.

    Still looks pretty bodged, though. Tidiness comes in time.

    Now, since I was making such great progress on the electricals, I decided it was about time to stop and go back to the brakes; I mean, I'd had a rebuild kit for a Clayton Dewandre master cylinder for a week or two by this point, so let's unearth the m/c and have a play!

    Some tinkering turned the master cylinder into an exploded diagram.

    Those seals look pretty shot...

    Those look good, though.

    The bore was looking pretty cruddy, but I thought I could hone it out and it'd be okay.

    I was still hopeful at this point, but it turned out to be bad enough that it'd require sleeving. That's all still up in the air at the moment.

    So what else do I have to start...
    Oh, right! The fuel tank.

    Paint-stripper disk, wire brush, red primer...

  5. #25
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Well, with removing all those bodge-wires, that meant the fuel pump wasn't electrically connected to anything any more; so it had to be moved somewhere else on the truck.

    And that meant that it couldn't reach the short length of hose I'd been using until then; so I needed something to extend the run, and I wanted a fuel filter... so I went looking for something, and turned up this.

    In hindsight, I wouldn't recommend using this filter. I got it because it's got two 8mm hose barbs on top and it's quite a large filter; but I hadn't realised it also has a strange feature on top that is meant to take a special fitting that I believe is a return/bleed from the pressure regulator in its original application.

    But, it's what I'd bought, so it's what I used.

    I tried to plug the hole for the odd fitting, since it turned out to be about the perfect size to tap for 1/4 BSP; but I didn't manage to seal it quite tight enough, because there's a very gentle bubbling from it when the fuel pump was running. Eventually, it bubbled enough fuel up to start dripping onto the exhaust; I only noticed this when the exhaust had warmed up, and it was starting to steam as it dripped petrol onto it.

    I tried a few ways of sealing it, in increasing desperation, and eventually using an O-ring and plenty of gasket-goop worked.

    Now, normal people would probably use a large P-clip or something to mount it; but no, not I.

    "A grinder and paint..."

    Some holes were drilled, spatter removed, edges cleaned up, and some paint thrown at it; and I bolted it to the truck, shoved the filter in and connected everything up.

    There are a few wires bundled up there that will -- eventually -- run back down the chassis; along with a whole bunch of others that aren't in yet.

    Onwards and upwards; or, rather, backwards and downwards...

    A thorough wire-brushing, and an application of Kurust later...

    New threaded bit, and some primer...

    Then, at some point, my tin of black paint turned up, so I started on making the tank all nice and shiny.

    Mmmm, glossy.

    The camera does a great job of picking out every single imperfection in the surface, and it's not helped by the angle I took the shot at; but it's barely noticeable unless you're up close and looking at it, and it should smooth/polish out quite nicely.

    Since I already had the brush covered in black paint, I painted the tank bracket I'd primed earlier; then fought the other one off the truck.

    Y'know when you have those times when you'd rather the bolt would just snap, because it'd be quicker than struggling to unwind it because of e.g. gacked thread? Yeah. Still, it came off.

    In our next episode, the tank goes on!

  6. #26
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Just like everything else on the truck, the tank fought me. The forward bracket didn't want to line up with the holes I took it out of. (Bloody hole fairies again.), so I had to drill a new hole.

    Then the studding I put on the tank-straps turned out not to be long enough, so I had to make up some extensions on the poverty-lathe.

    And then I broke off the pipe from the pickup in the tank; leaving me with only a stub to attach a section of rubber hose to.

    The miracle-wire with a spade terminal on it, is the level sender connection. The original terminal had near enough infinite resistance, and I didn't want to destroy everything trying to undo the corroded lump at the top in the vain hope of fixing it. So I drilled a hole in the brass strip, soldered a wire in, and stuck that through a tight-fitting hole that I drilled in the lid; I've also added a ground wire because there's no other way that it'll all ground through the freshly painted tank and brackets, it runs down to the pump, where it joins a 6mm≤ ground-wire that runs up to the bolt through the freshly-drilled hole holding the tank bracket on.

    Recovery from destroying the pipe: Cut the twisted bits off, leaving just enough that a hose will push on and a hose-clamp screwed down really tightly holds well.

    Then, the moment of truth; will it actually hold fuel?

    My funnel wasn't long enough to reach the filler neck without being nearly horizontal, and I left my little transfer pump (the bulb type) at home. Thankfully, I don't ever throw anything away, and this redex bottle turned out to be pretty much perfect for turning into an extension funnel.

    Then I needed a temporary filler cap, while I sort out the 'original' one.

    Turns out, if you cut the threads off a Scania locking fuel cap, and file it smooth, it wedges in there quite nicely.
    (No, I didn't sacrifice it for that purpose; it was already scrap. Someone left it screwed into the aluminium filler neck while they plasma'd it from the tank. Turns out, aluminium is really good at conducting heat; and those plastic threads don't like heat very much. )

    This was the point I managed to sort the leaking from the top of the fuel filter.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tamber
    I also sorted the leak in the fuel filter. Couldn't get the threaded fitting to seal with ptfe tape (it just dissolved); couldn't get an O-ring to stay put under it without a washer, but a washer meant the threads wouldn't engage any more because of the taper; so I stuck the O-ring on with the silicon gasket-maker, then gooped the hell out of the threads with the same silicon. Tried it this afternoon while on my dinner-break, and it seems to be holding very nicely.

    Considering the pressure behind it, I'm going to call it good. (When I pulled the little black & blue pipe cap from the stub pipe last time, to unscrew the fitting and make another attempt at sealing it, there was enough residual pressure in there that petrol spurted up higher than the level of the truck roof.)
    Now, clearly, the next step in the process...



    Yup. Headlights, of course! The ones in there were sealed beams that didn't work any more.
    So out they came, and were replaced by some nifty modern Lucas bits (LUB328) that are an exact replacement but take a H4 bulb; and an 80/100W bulb in each.


    If I want to be able to change the bulbs without unclipping the fronts and pulling the whole lens assembly out, I'll have to cut a hole in the back of the light-bins; but I don't forsee it being a major problem, for how long a modern bulb should last. I'll probably change my mind when I have to do that in the dark.

    And the reason I chose to do the headlights? Because it put off attacking the rust for a little while... But, eventually, I had to face up to it.

    Then this corner just fell off, too!


  7. #27
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Still, though....

    Recently, I got myself a torque-multiplier off't internet for £40 brand new -- seriously, I don't know how they do it. I don't think I could've got the sockets on their own for that cheap, and they've got a good solid weight to them, rather than the stuff made out of tinfoil -- that lets me wind those wheel-nuts off with two fingers. It's going to make getting at the brakes significantly less of a battle.

    Since then, some more metal fell out...

    and a patch panel made a few months ago, was offered up

    I had originally intended to joggle the edges of the roof where I was fitting the new metal into, thus the holes for plug welds; unfortunately, the rot extended a little further than anticipated and the areas I intended to joggle turned out to be not substantial enough to survive the joggling. Next patch panel, I'll not bother punching the holes in it; and then I'll end up needing to joggle it and punch holes, probably.

    And, welded in...

    Mid-process pic. It was beginning to get dark by the time I'd finished welding; and I was in a bit of a rush to apply paint, and get the truck out of the workshop, so didn't take any further pictures.

    At that point, I had a repeat of the last time I had the truck pulled into the workshop: not enough fuel to start and run back to the parking spot. Thankfully, since I'm not running out of the jerry-can any more, I had enough left in that to refill the truck's tank just enough to start and hurtle back to the compound.

    I dread to think what an ear-bashing I'd get for blocking up prime workshop space.

    And that's us all caught up!
    Last edited by Tamber; 12-10-16 at 10:36 PM.

  8. #28
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Outside the M25
    This thread should keep us all entertained for years
    Keep up the good work.

  9. #29
    Metal-Glueing Idiot
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by fabphil View Post
    This thread should keep us all entertained for years
    Keep up the good work.
    And the truck's likely to keep me busy for years; so there'll be plenty more hilarity to come, I'm sure.

  10. #30
    Settling in
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    great thread and interesting project too, will be keeping an eye on this for sure, good luck with it

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