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Thread: T time

  1. #11
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Uncle Fad, in your opinion, and if the photo is clear enough, is this torque converter re-usable? A little worried about the area the front seal would sit.


  2. #12
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    Bugger, I'll get a better photo tomorrow.

  3. #13
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    The nose of the TC needs to be very smooth. If there is anything but faint lines from where the seal rubs then its a no go. Any grooves/ridges will leak. If there is very faint marking clean it up with 1200 grit.

    In the old days they used to finish the nose with jewellers rouge. Let me know if it needs a rebuild.

    The torque straps.

    The top mounts of mine are a little more complicated than normal due to the angle of the bottom mount shafts, as I wanted them to be at 90* to the strap when it was installed. Because of this I could not just slide the strap in... if you see what I mean. The top mounts have an additional pin on the back of them that registers in the chassis so they don't move with just a single bolt location. They are about 65* and 65*.

    Also I have only one lock nut at the top end. The bottom end is screwed right into the hemi joint until its tight. All the adjustment is done on the top hemi and then clamped off with the back nut. This way I don't have a nut on show at the bottom, just a rod going into the hemi keeping it neat and tidy.











    Last edited by fad15; 06-04-17 at 08:46 AM.

  4. #14
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    Not much progress as I am waiting for bits and bobs to arrive. I have started on the rear torque straps, I've ground off the original mounting points from the chassis rails and will be putting a box section between the rails with tabs for the torque straps to bolt to, this will increase the angle of the straps to something I'm happier with, hopefully the new tube will be hidden from view by the framework that holds the diff in place.
    At the same time I'm going to install the alternator, the nice shiny pulley has been machined and I can now make up some brackets to fit the alternator to the inside of the nearside frame rail, funnily enough in exactly the same place that the nearside torque strap was mounted so all good moving the things.

    Nearside torque strap mounting point.


    9" grinder and taddarrr!


    I know, it's just like magic and yes I'm waiting on some steel that should have arrived a day or so ago

    Anyway, looks like the torque converter is buggered.


    So Uncle Fad, I know we have had this discussion some years ago but what stall converter would you recommend? Engine should give out about 325hp and 425lb ft at 2800rpm in standard trim but now it has what we think is a mild cam but with a tunnel ram and twin holley's, so the figures could be upped a small amount but doubt it will have increased much to be honest. The rear tyres are 33" tall and the diff will probably be a 2.88 affair at a later date. Bear in mind that this was also the ratio in a Jensen interceptor that had this engine and it did 0-60 times of around 7 seconds but weighed 3500lbs and I should be nearly half that weight or thereabouts. The box is a torqueflight 727 that will need a rebuild at some point.

    More to follow when things arrive.

  5. #15
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    I had 500 rpm extra stall on mine (with about 425 BHP and a TH350). This was what our converter builder suggested. Too much (which is not uncommon) and the thing is always reving on pull away.

    And YES that nose is shot. No matter a new one can be welded in at the same time as the stall is done. 95% sure the pump bush is in a mess as well.
    G

  6. #16
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    Small update, The torque converter and box are on hold at the moment as there is the faintest of chances that a manual box might be available, very faint chance at the moment and if it doesn't come off then the auto will be rebuilt and fitted for good.

    Today I managed a few moments in the garage for a change.

    Nice shiney pulley all bolted up (Ok I know the propshaft is missing but we can't have everything in life)




    Bracket for the main alternator mount welded in, took longer than anticipated as the frame rails start to splay out at this point so not parallel, welding not my best but oh boy not my worst either


    I mounted the alternator to the bracket and then went out to my stash of drive belts to see if any of them would fit and what would you know I had three exactly the same size that fit perfectly so at least I know I have a couple of spares and don't have to go trying to find a supplier in a few years down the road.
    Me. "have you got an alternator belt 860mm long by 13.5mm wide?"
    Guy behind the counter or on the phone. "have you got a registration number for the vehicle?"
    Me. "No"
    Guy behind the counter or on the phone. "Sorry can't help you"

    Whatever happened to storemen/women that actually knew what fitted what or how to read part numbers and do a cross reference

    So belt fitted and all lines up spot on for a change. Still need to add an adjuster bar to the alternator but will wait till I have the crossmember that the torque straps will be fitted to incase it lines up and I can tap off that, if not then a nice curvy adjuster will be made and another bracket fitted to the same area as the alternator mounting brackets. Also the handbrake lever will miss everything even at full tension on the alternator, this might sound strange to mention but the lever that will operate the handbrake has to pass within the belt circle, it does mean that to change the belt I will have to disconnect the handbrake lever but hey that's only two bolts, you should try changing one on a diesel PT cruiser


    View from the top, ignore the nut and bolt used, they will be replaced with nice shiny ones when I know everything works.


    Plonked the body back on to see what hit or missed and to my surprise the alternator is just about half an inch proud of where the floor used to be and where the battery box was. This is good news as the battery box is going and a smaller battery will be used, probably an odyssey one. The battery box always annoyed me as it sat below the line of the chassis rail so now on that side at least nothing will be hanging down.


    Closer image of the protrusion into the seating area, which is no big deal.


    That's all for now, collecting a few more bits and waiting on a couple of people about the manual trans so fingers crossed.
    Last edited by stilltrying; 07-05-17 at 09:21 PM.

  7. #17
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    Looking great. Keeps the engine tidy. I was lucky as I had an 'inner' chassis rail I could drop the adjuster from. I loved doing all this stuff, it was an exercise in packaging...

    3 pedals in a T can be very crowded around the feet!!!!


    Last edited by fad15; 08-05-17 at 05:22 AM.

  8. #18
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    Over the past weeks I have managed to get into do a bit now and then, not a lot but we are in Tesco territory now so here goes.

    First off was to weld in a piece of 25 x 50 x 3 rectangular steel from one chassis rail to the other about 170mm in front of the rear cross member.

    Then it was time to get the cardboard out and make some templates.





    Nice and simple that only took a few minutes

    Then it was time to make the items in 6mm steel plate.



    I could have made it straight sided as it will never get seen but thought no, I will give it some curves and make it look a little interesting or at least less boring, so trusty hacksaw in hand and various files we ended up with this.



    After way too long with the hacksaw and files we end up with another one whoopie



    Oh for a plasma cutter, would have taken about ten minutes

    Time then stood still for a while as I needed to bend the brackets at a particular angle so the the torque straps would be at the correct angles. This meant finding a new source for a propane bottle as all the local ones have now stopped doing the one I had Why is it that everything I have ends up either out of stock or discontinued............ahhhh because I keep stuff too long apparently

    So new gas bottle sourced and a load of heating up and some not so gentle hammering butchery (sorry gentle precise persuasion) and we end up with both brackets bent to suit, or so I thought. No I didn't manage to bend them both in the same direction (been there and done that one) but when I tacked them in position it was obvious more filing and a bit more bending was required, so off they came and the file and angle grinder were set to good use to ensure there was a bit more clearance and then they were tacked back on.
    Bugger!!! they still needed tweeking on the angle so decided to see how good my welding was and welded the buggers on, then got the big stillies out to "gently" move the angle slightly, woohooo the welds held out great and the angles are now good so fitted the torque straps.
    I'm happier with the angles than before I started and also happier that they will work if the diff does try to climb.







    Still need to weld the brackets and the cross member underside but as my welding is not too bad (notice they have been ground down so you can't see the mess) I didn't want to weld upside down so these will be done when the chassis has all the items fitted and I strip it down to paint.
    Other than that not much has progressed but have ordered a new aluminium timing cover and sourced a good slip yoke, although the yoke is the peened over type of fitting rather than a circlip so it will either have to be modified or the propshaft people will have to have the necessary to fit a peened over joint.

  9. #19
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    Nice stuff, thanks for sharing this.

  10. #20
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    Well no movement on anything rod related until today and then I had to fit it in with relatives visiting so only a couple of hours.

    Last time I was hoping to get a manual box for this thing but it got scuppered and then was back on again and then scuppered again so I decided sod it auto is the way forward and then bugger me just as the rebuild kit turned up another chance occured and then was gone again, so auto it is for sure.

    Today I decided to strip the box down, I have never done an autobox so armed with video's from you tube I got going.

    Take no notice of the state of the shed, it's always like that

    Started with this


    and finished up with a mass of oil and this


    Hopefully over the next couple of days I will get time to clean everything up and start to reassemble things, but my daughters TT needs the clutch slave cylinder doing and that is a gear box out job, made all the more difficult because it's a quattro and it's outside. The fact that it is outside may be an advantage to the rebuild as if it continues to rain then I'm not doing the audi

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