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  1. #61
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumpcars View Post
    I bought a composite gear but on further research discovered a number of problems with them breaking up when used to drive the oil pump as well on a Chevy(designed for external pump) . Decided not to risk that one.
    Looking at the notes that came with the MSD distributor they say you can use a steel gear on a billet steel cam, so may look into that for the next time.

  2. #62
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    New honing tool arrived.

    Looks like the trick with the brass insert worked. All honed. Wasn't sure wether to add oil or not so didn't in the end. The stones wore down fairly quickly but I achieved the end result I needed.

    The hub was heated up with a heat gun for a couple of minutes then it slipped on the crank snout with out to much effort. Once cold the fit was what I would expect. Damper bolt fitted and torqued to 90ft/lbs.

    Damper installed, 6 bolts torqued to 16ft/lbs. Bolts use a T40 Torq bit. Installed timing pointer.
    There are three bolts for the crank pulley. My old pulley set had four holes, so now have to re-drill the pulley!
    Last edited by fabphil; 19-05-19 at 08:55 AM.

  3. #63
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Good to know the brass behaved itself.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by fad15 View Post
    Good to know the brass behaved itself.

  5. #65
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Re-drilled the crank pulley and fitted.


    Then got out the bead roller. Just as well I didn't start straight on the seat panels as the roller needed a lot of tweaking before the beads were anywhere near even and the ally not getting chewed up.


    Decided on a 1/2" bead for the seats and door panels.


    First trials! This will defo need two people to do, one to turn the rollers and me to feed the work.
    Finally got the bead even.
    Just got to find the courage to put a real panel in there now!
    Last edited by fabphil; 19-05-19 at 02:39 PM.

  6. #66
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Good luck with that. Always looks so easy when someone who knows what they are doing shows you but as an amateur, it just seems like sorcery.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilltrying View Post
    Good luck with that. Always looks so easy when someone who knows what they are doing shows you but as an amateur, it just seems like sorcery.
    How do you know I don't know what I'm doing?

  8. #68
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    The short bead


    Any chance of fabricating an end plate to fit a starter motor or similar that could turn the rollers for you?

  9. #69
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Got some play time today. Started on the roof switch panel.
    This has to house all the usual switches lights, wipers, de-mist fan, brake level warning light and test switch plus all the aux switches for the nitrous, fuel pumps, cooling fans etc. Also has the radio, nitrous computer and trans and oil temp gauges.
    Started off using the folder to get the basic shape then a lot of drilling, cutting and filing to get all the holes correct. The three holes in the back are for the BMW de-mist fan (BIVA requirement).





    Cut and folded the end pieces.



    Riveted into place.



    Fitted all the kit.



    The blower fan is the smallest I could find to fit, its the rear screen de-mist from a BMW cabriolet. Works like a small hairdryer, no water required.

  10. #70
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Just remember that all edges need to be 2.5mm radius and no sharp bits. Sticking tape or foam over bits doesn't pass now.

    Would like to know how the electric heater does for demisting as I have another kitcar that is air cooled and the heating to the screen is crap, if that set up works on your ride then maybe two of them would do for the screen I have.

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