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  1. #101
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    All stuff bolted back onto the firewall.
    Question 1..do I leave the ally sheet as it is or put all my performance stickers I've accumulated all over it?

    Question 2... the brake peddle is to high and to far away from the gas peddle. This at the moment means I have to left foot brake as the right foot hits the steering column when moved to apply the brakes. Any thoughts on how to solve? I'm looking at trying to make a proper 32 Ford style assembly that pushes down through the kick panel under the steering column. This will depend on the cross members under the floor.

  2. #102
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    As to 1, I would leave the stickers off to start with and when the fire wall starts to look a bit grubby then add them, also once the engine is in place you would know where to fit them for best effect.

    As for 2, The photo probably is not representative of the issue, but can you not reverse the pedal so that the lean is towards the throttle pedal and move the throttle pedal over to the right a bit more? I will also have to two foot if I can't come up with a cunning plan (or cut off some toes on my right foot and narrow it as well) to relocate both my throttle pedal and brake pedal as the steering column passes directly between the two. I might add there are a number of rods running with this configuration, it's something you get used to (have you been go-karting at all), however, if you ever want someone else to drive you car for any reason then that would be a major issue if they are not used to it.
    Where is your brake master cylinder?

    I actually knew of a car that had the throttle pedal inbetween the brake and clutch pedals years ago.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilltrying View Post
    can you not reverse the pedal so that the lean is towards the throttle pedal and move the throttle pedal over to the right a bit more?
    Where is your brake master cylinder?
    Been to the Super Nats today and had a good look round at brake assemblies. Think I have a solution now.
    I thought about trying to lean the brake pedal to the right but the travel of the arc when pressed hits the steering column.
    The change of pedal bracket would mean the pedal pushes to the floor in a straight line and the arcing movement happens under the car.
    The master cylinder and servo are under the floor under the drivers seat.
    Last edited by fabphil; 11-08-19 at 05:07 PM.

  4. #104
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    I thought about trying to lean the brake pedal to the right but the travel of the arc when pressed hits the steering column.

    I thought that maybe the case but glad you may have found a solution.

  5. #105
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Made a cardboard template for the new brake pedal

    After a few measurements got it cut down to the correct size.

    This is the original pedal with the offset to the left.

    Once I had the template cut I found out the angled crossmember was in the way
    This caused a total re-think.

    Plan B will be to use the original pivot, remove the existing pedal and fabricate a new pedal offset to the right to get it on the right hand side of the column.
    Last edited by fabphil; 18-08-19 at 07:27 PM.

  6. #106
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Had some play time in the garage one evening this week. Cut some 1.5" bits of old gas barrel pipe. We use it in the garden to stoke the bonfire! Just happened to be the right size.







    The amber is the front indicator the white will be a day light running light. They will eventually be mounted under the headlamp each side of the alloy light post.

    Staretd to polish up the alloy posts . Gave it a rub down with some 340 grit to get the machining marks out. The casting marks will be left as I'm polishing it up a bit ,not mirror finish.




  7. #107
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Day off today. In the garage at 9.00am
    Welded up some old fixing holes on the inside of the chassis. Ground flat and sprayed primer then gloss black.
    Then... cleaned up a bit and pushed the car out so I had some room to manoeuvre.




    Engine hoist out and away we go.


    The engine went in easily (new it was going to well). Then stopped solid with the last half inch to go to get the engine mount holes lined up.
    The old C6 mounts were in the way. Had to go and get one of these....my new favourite toy.


    Two minutes later these were on the floor


    Still solid???
    The transmission scatter shield was hitting the chassis. Had to cut a small chunk out of the shield. Looks like its lost its SFI rating, oops.

    New motor in and bolted up. Just got to make a transmission mount now as its held in with a ratchet strap.




    Ground clearance is 3 3/8" on the engine and transmission.

    Last edited by fabphil; 23-08-19 at 08:42 PM.

  8. #108
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    And... breath, in, out, in, out and rest

  9. #109
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    Think I should get one of those saws, look a handy bit of kit when you can't get a full-sized hacksaw in some places. coming along well.

  10. #110
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
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    Dug out the new starter motor, went to bolt in and true to form the JW bellhousing requires the starter to be bolted from the starter side. The MSD starter wants one bolt from the front and one from the back. Had to drill the thread out of the top started mount hole. Mounted up again and due to chassis design (read, chassis rails getting in the way) had to find a short 9/16" spanner as a socket wont fit in there or a normal length spanner.




    The alternator bracket also doesn't fit now I've swapped over to an electric water pump. All the mounts for use with an electric pump place the alternator low on the engine right where the chassis rail and steering rack happen to be. So I'm now playing around with the old mount and some studding to see if I can get a high mounting point.


    Spent Monday getting the car back up in the air so I can sort out the trans mount. The jack ramps came in invaluable again.






    After some alignment issues caused by the valley wall gasket/spacers I finally got the base of the tunnel ram back on.


    While I had free access took the opportunity to fit the plug for the nitrous solenoids.


    Induction back on Starting to look like a car again! Still loads to do though.




    The GM T400 trans is a foot shorter than the Ford C6 that came out so will need to sort a new prop shaft at some point. I have a box of bits just need some one to weld them up and balance them.
    Last edited by fabphil; 27-08-19 at 10:14 AM.

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