Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Newbie (well to here at least)
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Worcestershire
    Posts
    4

    Underside protection.

    Evening guys and gals,
    Finally jumped in and bought a 68 Plymouth Fury 3. Little 318 3 speed. Nice clean california car. The underside is structurally sound and cannot see any evidence of plates or repair. It only has light surface rust at present, and my plan is to mechanically go through the car and make it a nice reliable "daily." What methods and products do people use to protect the underside of their cars. I have used POR 15 on my kit car and have had very nice results from it, that said it's been sat in the garage since so I can't comment on the longevity or durability of it atall plus I imagine the 3 several steps involved could be somewhat tedious on something with the surface area of the moon. I think I would like to go down the painting it route as that's the look / plan I have in my head.
    So what have you guys used and what results have you had. I don't mind fiddly and time consuming if it works and is worth it in the long run.

    Regards

    John

  2. #2
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northants
    Posts
    1,320
    I used a Company called Nene Overland who basically steam clean the whole bottom of the car and chssis then Waxoyl the whole lot.

    Great job and very tidy.

    My car is totally original and underneath sounds similar to yours, no welds only light surface rust in the odd place.

    Saves a lot of ball ache under the car. Just an option should you wish to take this route

  3. #3
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    welwyn
    Posts
    1,855
    Do the ball ache and get it covered either in nice shiny paint or POR15, maybe an alternative could be that slightly wrinkle finish bed liner paint. Can't really comment as to how good any of them are as none of my cars are sorted underside wise.

    One thing I have noticed on one of my projects (a Mazda RX7 from the early 80's) is that the original owner had the car zeebart'd (spelling?) from new and the cills and the door bottoms are in excellent condition so maybe worth doing that for the internal side of the metalwork.

  4. #4
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northants
    Posts
    1,320
    Forgot to say they did inside all the chassis rails, door, sill and boot cavities. They didn't do the bonnet as the engine heat would melt it and make it run out lol.

    Car smelt of Waxoyl for about a month until it had dried properly inside the doors etc.
    Last edited by V8Rumble; 21-09-18 at 08:05 PM.

  5. #5
    Newbie (well to here at least)
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Worcestershire
    Posts
    4
    Cheers all, some food for thought.

  6. #6
    Site Team
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    United Kingdom Heathrowish.
    Posts
    3,342
    I have sworn by Dinitrol products for many years. Prefer it to Waxoyl.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •