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  1. #1
    Settling in
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Buckingham
    Posts
    79

    Bloody water leaks!

    I bolted the inlet mani down on the MGB's new Hybrid SBC engine.
    I had an external leak on the waterway above no7 cylinder. And I found that both of the front water way ports on the inlet mani were leaking into the valley area.

    I removed the old gaskets and fitted better FelPro gaskets. Leaks still happened?

    I then removed the front and rear valley seals and used a 1/4" bead of Right Stuff sealant instead of the rubber gaskets.

    Bugger me if it does not now leak from any of the water ports in the heads

    Sadly I still have a leak from the steam port plug in one of the heads? I am not going to pull the top end all of again. I'm going to tweak the tunnel ram mani flange with my Die Grinder so I can remove the small plug and re seal it


    Next job is to buy some SBC exhaust flanges and make the Zoomies!

    Regards to all

    Perry

  2. #2
    REV JIM RACING.
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    possibly lost....?
    Posts
    1,476
    Valley seals are ...erm...wank....did both my engines with just sealant.

  3. #3
    Site Team
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    United Kingdom Heathrowish.
    Posts
    3,344
    I've used sealant on valley ends for many years and have always used Fel Pro gaskets with a touch of Hylomar on the water ports. I've had a touch of oil drawing into the intake ports on my blown engine and am trying a Loctite fuel proof sealer on all ports with that one. Yes I have measured the intake/port relationships.

  4. #4
    Carburetion 'sucks' !
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Driving 'round the M25 so fast the centrifugal force is forcing my face against the side window!
    Posts
    657
    I keep getting a small but irritating leak from the drivers side water pump ports on my BBC engine - with differing length bolts used on the ally water pump, someone in the past used a 'long' bolt in a 'short' hole, overtightened the bolt and stripped the thread in the block. I 'helicoiled' the block in situ but as the thread was still weak it would pull out if any torque was used on the bolt. Ended-up using a stud (instead of a bolt) that fully bottoms-out in the helicoiled hole. Works great - it seems really secure and bolts ups seemingly secure within the bolts torque range.........but the frigger still weeps every time even with new gaskets and sealant........whats the name of the copper particle based Rad Seal type stuff every raves about that is added to radiator to cure leaks - and does it work with (or damage) an alloy radiator?
    Last edited by roscobbc; 02-03-19 at 08:20 AM.

  5. #5
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bucks
    Posts
    3,269
    Think I would use a TimeSert one size up in the block and then get a stud made to go from the 'one size up' to the water pump size.

    Its just a simple engineering exercise that should be easy to do with the guys on here helping you out. Would also check the water pump for flatness in case its been pulled out of shape.

    Cant bring myself to use leak cures in a bottle.
    G

  6. #6
    Might as well be part of the furniture.
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    welwyn
    Posts
    1,896
    Don't use the turd in the rad approach, either do as uncle fad said or use more sealant and let it cure over time before pressurising the system again.

  7. #7
    Carburetion 'sucks' !
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Driving 'round the M25 so fast the centrifugal force is forcing my face against the side window!
    Posts
    657
    Didn't want to do the logical thing and go oversize in the block - using hand tools. Investigated the Timesert thing - problem is going oversize in block (and using stepped stud) is problematical as the tapped hole in the block is 'blind' - going oversize creates issues as a deeper hole in the block will be necessary probably piercing the water jacket....

  8. #8
    Settling in
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Buckingham
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by roscobbc View Post
    I keep getting a small but irritating leak from the drivers side water pump ports on my BBC engine - with differing length bolts used on the ally water pump, someone in the past used a 'long' bolt in a 'short' hole, overtightened the bolt and stripped the thread in the block. I 'helicoiled' the block in situ but as the thread was still weak it would pull out if any torque was used on the bolt. Ended-up using a stud (instead of a bolt) that fully bottoms-out in the helicoiled hole. Works great - it seems really secure and bolts ups seemingly secure within the bolts torque range.........but the frigger still weeps every time even with new gaskets and sealant........whats the name of the copper particle based Rad Seal type stuff every raves about that is added to radiator to cure leaks - and does it work with (or damage) an alloy radiator?
    Hi! If the stud is secure enough to pull the flange down tight enough, and it still weeps. Surely the problem lies in the face to face seal between pump and block? Maybe a bad surface or mis alignment? I use "Right Stuff" sealant for little problems like this.

  9. #9
    Carburetion 'sucks' !
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Driving 'round the M25 so fast the centrifugal force is forcing my face against the side window!
    Posts
    657
    Got to be worth a go! - thanks

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